mikegr
-
Posts
618 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by mikegr
-
looks like the 70% of the job is about making the hull and the rigging, comparing to a WW1 or later warship were superstructures is the most complex part of it.
-
I finish weathering the deck. I had to remove the arresting cables put the white stripes and install them again. Kinda foolish.Correct planning is useful apart modeling skills. There suppose to be a circle but I don't have it neither I'm good enough to airbrush one, I can't afford a second deck disaster. This is going to be a heavy weathered rusty dog of war.
-
too many modelers use bottles to stick their parts for painting . Maybe i should follow .
-
Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I have finished the hull to the polishing point. However during hard sanding I noticed vertical surface cracks at the point where main deck lowers and meet the aft deck. Even I had fortified this joint that wasn't enough to make up for the absense of a unified deck and planking. Also some filler peel off appeared in some areas. Another lesson learned. Under these circumstances, laid up of a 3rd hull seemed inevitable. After consideration and online study I decided to to risk and try a new for me technique. Wrapping the hull in fiberglass. To make it a bit more rigid and avoid another two week season of sanding I chose an extra light fiber mat, 30gr per sqm heavy. I gave it 3 layers. 5 would be better but I was afraid of extra resin causing problems with foam again. I will probably do the rest work after at least 24 to 48 hours.
-
So I got some video suggestion from youtube lately Is this kit the most difficult indeed? Maybe some one else may have other opinion? I would like to hear your thoughts.
-
Traditional Humbrol enamel (01)has worked fine for me. I used it with brush only, no thinner. I have no experience with airbrush
-
I have sold this problem by using high quality autobody epoxy primer. But I use it on spray and even it has flow regulator needs careful handling and proper spraying distance as it may flood the tiny parts. Also it may cover the parts numbers on sprues.
-
You may consider using gel CA for rapid PE gluing wherever this needed like masts etc...
-
I painted the ship, first airbrush attempt. Test fitted the deck.
-
So many stuff for a tiny model. Good luck. Size doesn't matter. Can be impressive as much as its bigger cousins.
-
Realistic Water
mikegr replied to taylormade's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
This is Chris Flodberg indeed a full time artist. Along with Katseas my favorite sea base builders in 1/700 and 1/350. https://www.chrisflodberg.com/maritime. There is also a concentration of methods by builder on this forum http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37923 -
Merry Christmas to all. Santa came on time as usual. I think I will make a long kit review thread for the models of my stash so potential buyers can have a look.
-
Realistic Water
mikegr replied to taylormade's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
It depends what you want to represent. The epoxy materials referred above are a good option. Note that if you want to make waves you need extra materials like acrylic gel or even plaster, depends on reality factors like boat speed, weather and scale. -
Not much progress I just feel the need to update. Deck sticker added. I marked the arresting gears. First I used marker and ruler. Attempt was disastrous because the surface wasn't smooth as it looked. I hope parking a couple of aircrafts would cover it somehow. For the rest, I used paintbrush hair painted with black marker.
-
I finish the masts and deck crane. I cut the deck sticker. Front elevator mismatched about 4mm. Correct measuring needs skills...
-
Ι decided to make an easy approach while building the hull on my project. I quited the first made a second and still setting me back several weeks. The easy way turned to be the hardest one. There's no model building schools so we learn from our mistakes only.
-
What is more important is the rigidity of the material. I used Aber PE from Poland. They were the worst. Could be bent by just paint brushing them. Then used many from Chinese manufacturers but not Flyhawk. They were better but still soft, while good in detail. Same for White Esign and Russian Micromask. Japanese PE are the crispiest by far. They can be cut easily with worn blade or on a soft surface while still being durable and forgiving . Can even hear the cracking sound sometimes. Something like the Japanese knives i suppose. Metal hardness can be achieved by proper treatment perhaps by high temperature. And obviously this has an cost and impact on quality of those material. Ofourse being solid hard is not the case here as this would create folding problems. There is a magic balance that has to been found to make our lives easier.
-
Benting this piece in 4 seemed impossible. However it took me few minutes. Fujimi PE are the best ever worked with. I use my knife and another blade usually to curve these pieces. I have more 3 to make. Note the tiny part close to the blade. I lost it but found it again
.thumb.jpeg.b0b7c3f1b2fe142f7ad9652e8ff4b8c7.jpeg)
-
I used humbrol enamel on all these models. No primer no finish varnish. The color deterioration is minimum after 25 years. Removing these old paints chemically is risky I think without damaging the plastic.
-
Because enamel paint should be perfectly thinned in order to work easily with it without the risk of microdrips getting under the tape. An airbrush could help but still need experience about matching color thickness, spraying distance etc. A white thinned paint over dark paint would require several layers. A primer would have helped here.
-
Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
The windows are made with office staples cut in L shape and glued together so they can display the frame as seen on pic. I experiment in many surfaces: Aluminum 0.20 mm thick. Strong and durable while also easy bending. Opening precise window holes was hard. Balsa. I used it on the face of the bridge deck. Very easy to form window holes but fragile. I had to create 3 faces. Also need to be smoothened to avoid the wood texture. Styrene. Easy to work with, no need for smoothing. Kinda inferior material though. I used hair dryer to dry paint on it faster and it curved in no time. For cranes the nightmare is the rigging. I have dozens of photos but still need to collect details. I bought some single and double pulleys. Amati has also triple as well as other useful parts for modern ships. I will need approx 60-65 In total. I also need to practice with soldering to make some parts like this cage after the rear crane
-
I did some paintwork on the rear deck. I used brush. It was trickier than I thought. I also modified the bow making an "open" frame.
-
gotta love those life rafts and paravanes. Most manufacturers can't produce this even in 1/350.
.jpeg.0299434ba9d51147aefebcbdffb8ca86.jpeg)
Our Emblem ®
