mikegr
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
So after some weeks of struggling with the hull I managed to take it to the desired level. I will polish it with 600 grit paper tomorrow. There's work to be done on the joint with the deck but I also have to add the deck frame with supporters there so I will deal with it later. I did though some -off hull- work after long time. I added the propeler base , rudder base and test fitted the box in the bow which I don't know what it stands for, maybe for a third anchor. It wasn't great progress but it was pleased that I switched back to creation for a while. Last thing, I need to strengthen the deck by adding aluminum sheets. To give also the desired pitch I put underneath some balsa pieces. At the deck centerline they are 1mm thick trimmed down to sharp edges towards ship's sides. Hope you got my point.
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Ι scratch built the upper part of the rear mast. Since I don't have soldering skills yet I made it in 3 parts. At the 2 joints, the vertical masts are glued. This, will offer some extra strength required for the rigging tension. As extra precaution I will use stretched sprue instead of elastic thread.
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I see some pencil lines of first set from left. That would be ideal for vertical alignment. I guess a final check would be by checking the hulk from the stern to make sure they put in the correct depth. So basically we are talking for a 3 dimension check. Definitely bit more complicated task that bend and glue as it seems initially. Not to mention that after some sets (or models) you will be able to put them by hand without the need of any tools.
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Close photos suggest some alignment but once painted they may look ok. You can use a spacer while installing them let's say a toothpick for example to make sure they are put evenly.
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I was thinking that this is one of the least damaged models while an accidentall fall caused some breaks. The paint is in great condition the challenge would be to match the color with the added parts so I skip repaint. The PE parts are for the "Nelson Class" which means they include 40mm aa guns which Rodney never received. J will use some of them, railings and whatever I could find on my spare parts stash.
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As I was searching some plans I noticed the bow was quite different than it should be. I considered it as a model fault so I cut it and tried to make a new one shaping some wood. Then while a friend called and ask some info on painting a Fletcher, I researched my instruction sheets which I have kept for years. To my surprise I found out that the kit was not Hikawa Maru but Yawata Maru by Aoshima, a cargo liner converted to Unyo, the sister ship of previous built, Taiyo. Under these circumstances a conversion would be out of question. I put it aside for experimental purposes and proceed with a more classic built, HMS Rodney by Tamiya.
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modern container ships and cruise ships are considered less beautiful comparing to past builts, although they remain impressive cause of the enormous size. Tankers have shrunk in size while their basic lines remained unchanged. Cargo ships have new modern cranes which makes them look somewhat different than in the past. One of my favourite sites for ships built 19060 afterwards with lots of infos and pictures is this http://www.aukevisser.nl/
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you can have a silent built. Then if you like it you can post your work. You will learn a lot in the process
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the complexity of the turret frames reminds me of card models where more strength is required. It seems battleships should be strongly made even if these are just models.
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you mean this? Dont mind the arrow, i just found this pic like this
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- tamiya
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Νext Project: Hikawa Maru by Hasewaga. Before i go on, a small correction: Previous model IJN Taiyo was by Aoshima not Tamiya. Both Taiyo and Hikawa Maru share the same hull design. The latter has an interesting story, built as a cruise liner, Japanese liners were not that famous as western builds. She was converted to a hospital ship. I was suprised to find out that she is a museum ship i n Yokohama. Now the model. At the time was built i had in mind to convert her in seaplane carrier thus the AA armament. There was a rear deck made by an expired credit card (!), cranes and seaplanes but they are missing. After some consideration i decided to built it as it looks today, a liner museum ship since there is good amount of pictures and plans available unlike Taiyo
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I finished yesterday the first stage of sanding. Today I done the 2nd stage, applying filler and hand sanding locally and repeat. The 3rd stage left now: applying glazing putty in smaller areas and spots. This will be done in daylight out of the basement when the weather will allow it. In sunlight every bump and imperfections will be revealed. The fiberglass method is messy but I think reduces the working time. And since I'm into modern ships I may follow the mould - fiberglass method for my future builts. Another reason is the materials. Polyester and glass mat are easier to find than modelling wood and comes at reasonable cost.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Ι removed the hull from the base and cut the excess material around. Now its time to work on the hull. I research about what material to use then i found a meterial called micro bubbles . this mixed with polyester would make a soft layer of filler similar to car body filler but easier to sand. The bubbles were very difficult to find and pricey. I coated with another resin the hull and water sanded it with 400 grit paper on electric sander. Then i put a thin coat of car body filler spreaded with my finger. For the sides i use liquid body filler (light brown) and for the bow i used a basic layer of lightweight spakle then glazing putty on top for smooth finish. I dry sanded the surfaces initialy by electric tool then by hand. Overall about 30 minutes. The body show no signs of fatigue and it seemed like it had the required strength while weight increased slightly. I will cover with filling primer later and get to the final details. I think hull now will be in shape in a quite shorter time than before
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I finished the model by making a plexiglass case as usual. For conviniency roof will be made with 0.5mm PVC. They do great job protecting the model from dust but they occupy more space. Seems I am having problem already with about 25 more to rebuild plus some dozens to build from the start. Last month I received a message from a silent follower. He had some spare parts for 1/700 ships and instead of selling them on eBay for a few bucks he offered to ship them overseas to my door. To unfamiliar persons this looks like a scrap pile but for us may be a little treasure. And a boost for my effort. A big thanks for the follower.
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wish there was a model for Iwo Jima class as well. Can't believe there's no interest on this model. Fine example of the Cold War Era.
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Αfter a short build, a long build. I have this and Boxer as well. I think Hobbyboss is generous when comes to PE details. Of course there is space for extra improvements. either way its going to be an interesting project.
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So I poured the resin. The intention was to form a light-medium wave. I used a hair dryer to form the waves. It was a bit early and resin wasnt thick yet so I spilled some, making a mess on the base. After some time using the gun up and down I let it rest. I repeated the process until the epoxy has thickened to the point that was stable even when i used the dryer almost touching the base. Next morning I discovered that epoxy was back 90% in the original form. Even looked solid while blowing it probably the slow curing time prevent it from holding its shape😕. Having no other option I used medium gel to make a bit rough sea. I have used it in the past and concluded that this reduces the resin transparency, which I don't like. So while I was satisfied with the model built regarding the time spent, the sea base was just a repeat of a previous attempt with nothing new to offer.
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These fragile thin blades are surgical type. They are flexible and sharp but can break frequently.
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- tamiya
- king george v
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Done adding few details. Ready to pour resin
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Air brush vs paint & brush
mikegr replied to jefferyt's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Obviously is hard to get enough experience to build a fine wooden model before you turn into retirement age. Unless you are into this for many years. Back to the airbrush matter, there are many videos on youtube. From few minutes to hours. It is a lot different world and need a lot of learning and experimentation. I bought a kit with mini compressor mostly for general painting and making wave effects on sea dioramas. For detail painting like miniatures an advanced set is required.
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