Mirabell61
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Everything posted by Mirabell61
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Good morning Pete, Motor preference, certain make ? Actualy no, the engine I chose was a free chosen fictive engine that would comprise motor housing, gear- and clutch housing, cylinder, shaft, flywheel, front bearing shield, water pump, oil dip stick, starter, generator, mounting brackets, V-belts,cooling- and exhaust tubes, clutchlever and propshaft coupling. I know that some essentual devices will still be missing, such as tank, gasoil injection unit, ignition box, glow plug, etc.... Some time ago I saw a Zeesboat plan being offered at Ebay, It could perhaps be worth searching there or in the web (Google) from time to time. Mathias was using pear wood for planking, and yes, same as you did, I was amazed that neither glue stains nor toolmarks were to be seen there, he is a genius (what a skilled work !! ) What spooks aroung in my mind is, how can I achieve the old fishing workboat character, seeing all the newdays leisure Zeesboot craft. Example the wonderful deck Mathias built would probably be too fine for the fishermens muddy and scratchy boots and scraping network and fishing equipment .... I must admit that a strong criteria for me is also ( in lack of carving or clay modeing skills), to choose the scale for the boat due to the scale-true crew figurines. Here I found two figures from make "Pola" which are actualy forseen as driver and stoker ( now converted to fishermen father & son) on scale "G" steam locomotives scale 1: 25 resp. 1:24 Nils -
Good morning Pete, thanks for sharing your progress, I very much admire your large version of the "Bluenose" you are at,.....it reminds me a bit of the schooner yacht "America" I built for RC in about the same large size. I wated to build a boat that could be seen, out on the water. The hull was plank on ply frame from mahagony wood planking, and to get her 100% watertight, coated with glasfibre roving mesh and epoxyd resin. The hull had true shape, was very sharp cut and grazile, and I already during the build had doubts if later on I could get enough inboard lead ballast inside at the lowest possible point, stradeling the keel and the neighboured frames. When the first time in water, I was quite disappointed that although the hull itself was a lightweight, the waterline was already reached with appr. only 3 KG inboard lead ballast, (which would have been far too light for the large sail area to compensate). So the ship without the ballast went to the shelf. I sold it many years later to a modeling enthusiast in Hamburg and never saw or heared about it after that. Trust that an removeable exterior fin keel with lead bulb would have been the better choise Wishing you good success with the "Bluenose". The Billing boats Bluenose, I still have, was one of the first models I made when I was much younger, because I fell in love with the lines of this beautiful "Glouster Fisher" of the Great Banks Nils
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Hi Pete, looks like you caught fire ! I support your comments about Mathias`s incredible Zeesboot, (on the Wettringer Forum), the other models or kits on the web did neighter increase my blood pressure nor inspiration, when I was in search during the preparation phase... Yes, stove and brown sails will be fitted to my boot. Perhaps the tuc engines of this link my be of help for you.. https://www.google.de/search?q=motor+für+tuckerboot&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CZvm-n2O-5dKIjjbCOifzC0BAlN6qR5gvc4yYiY_1XGOB9zG2kcw8pLPYyn3bVL7fLsQ2os2dtNzkpTZVDm5xPZ8dRyoSCdsI6J_1MLQECESTtdxsp8H9OKhIJU3qpHmC9zjIRlv77B3HXNLAqEgliJj9cY4H3MRHVP81PFIN6gSoSCbaRzDyks9jKEWcdG2mlO89IKhIJfdtUvt8uxDYR6KaW5244AmgqEgmizZ203OSlNhFYVrV6xZvZNSoSCVUObnE9nx1HEZ31TLmYJgbC&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjKvtKr2fPiAhUPLewKHdYkDKAQ9C96BAgBEBg&biw=2133&bih=1022&dpr=0.9 Nils
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Good morning Pete, I shall be very pleased to see another Zeesboot to be laid on Keel here at MSW, and shall be pleased to help you in this evaluation period....., now to your questions... Cheers, Nils Model dimensions: The model in scale 1:24 is 495 mm long between the posts, will be appr. 750 , mm aver all (bow- and aft spars) Mainmasthight appr. 490 mm Beam 155 mm There are several books available, two of them I am using, and can recommend they are : -Zeesboote Segler durch die Zeiten, by Hermann Winkler - Erlebniswelt Zeesenboote, by Timm,Stütz this one also contains the overview plan I am basicly using, as well as the overview from the web, both motorized, one with fish containment boxes placed left/right of the centerboard if I`m not mistaken this build is from the web page : https://www.modelships.de/Zeesenboot/Zeesenboot_dt.htm
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Detail, fastening of footrailing holders.... the brass holders ( flat 0,6 x 3mm ) are fastened to the side deck beams with pins and CA before these are permanently glued into the hull... Nils the pins get shortend pins and CA give a strong hold
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Thank you very much Pete, You are right with the thoughts about the natural curve of planks. The moment when the bow and the stern area is "fuller and rounder" in shape, there definately would be more adjustment to be made especialy to the clinkered planks.... Nils
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Top work Daniel, very precise fitting and planking job, great that the stb side allows view on to the framework Nils
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Wow Bob, good looking longboat Nils
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Good morning Pete and thanks for your kind comment, I always admired model builders who were able to fit contoured frames into a clinkered hull ( built over a plug or a preliminary skeleton) this now is my first clinkered hull, and also planked with pear planks, so I`m experiencing and learning, hopefully to get it done as I aimed for..... The best result I achieved was like shown in my post # 95 I`m still hesitating a bit with the resembling of the horizontal rows of plank connecting,pins, nails, dowels, etc. because I fear, that if they do`nt get absolutely aligned, near to the plank edges, it would not look neat and perhaps could spoil the look above the waterline. The actual Zeesboot planks had glued-in wooden plugs over the connectors, that were sanded flush after setting.... Nils
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A good start Pete, as you are planing to RC sail her, just a question : will you be having a fin with a lead bomb external beneath the hull (perhaps removeable), or will the ballast go at lowest possible into the hull ? Guess you may be lookng at 6-7 Kg external ballast..... Nils
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Fender Guitar by Dan Vadas - CARD - FINISHED
Mirabell61 replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Congrats Danny, That guitar looks great ! How about doing a 12 string western Guitar ? Nils -
H Kier, if you can make use of it, here is how I usualy do it. In this case the model, my Chebec Eagle of Algier, is foreseen to display in a glass cabinet when completed. When using brass pedestals I look out for some hollow ones, for instance made from old candle holders. The connecting part is a threaded spindel, which is anchored in the ship (interlocked in a suitable threaded conterpart fastened above the keel. The bottom side of the spindel goes through the pedestal and through the stand plate, and gets a washer and a nut as a counter part. Please refer to the pics, trust they ars self explaining.... Cheers , Nils
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Tolles Modell Martin ! a very good looking model Martin, I like it Nils
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Wunderbar ! very neat work Peta, love it... Nils
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Status : beginning the port side deck edge.... Nils the brass strips (0,6 x 3 mm) are fastened to the short side deck beams with pins, before they are securely glued in the side beams will be trimmed off on the inward side to the working cockpit later on a "footrail" will be fastened to the brass stips
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Hi B.E. I`ll be in for the same tricky task with my Zeesboot a little later on. I think I`ll give up the simulated rivet connection with 0,6 mm flat headed pinswhere I wanted to slip on miniatur discs from the inside to simulate the clenching discs. Looking at lapstrake joints in actual the copper nails pins are not even flush th the planks but sunk in so far that towards the outside the holes are plaged off with small round wooden dowels and sanded flush. Although I``m working in scale 1:24, that would be impossible for me to do in that way, although the planks are 2 mm thick. I went Web-looking for mini brass or copper flat head pins...., best suitable are mini nails I found at Krick (Article 473842). The great benefit is that the nails have only 0,6 mm diam. and a flat head with only 1 mm diam. !!. I think I will be using these... and set them flush with the outside. An alterative could be doing only dilling the holes and fitting in toothpick points ( like treenails) Another task is to get the borings all to align properly in row. and distance, if this ca`nt be done utmost tidy it will "look at you" for ever after.... Am curious how you shall master this, and wish you luck and good success Nils
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Looking good so far B.E. What will you be using for the horizontal inter connecting of the lapped planks ? (for optical matter only) Nils
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Svein, a very well built cutter hull from a wonderful kit....., she`ll surely turn out a beauty when complete Nils
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Correct and thanks Michel, no pollution, good idea, perhaps I can claim a technical Nobel prize for that Nils
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Good morning John and Eberhard, Thanks for your comments, and also to all those who clicked the "likes".... John, I had a broad smile from ear to ear when I read your lines..... Think its just that what we remember as the good old days, compared with the regulations all over, we have for everything today. The exhaust pipe should get a little plate fixed with warning "hot, do`nt touch, danger of being burnt, plasters, bandage and Asperin in the cabin" Eberhard, when I read asbestos the "red light" went on in my mind straight away, bearing all the facts you mentioned Nils
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Thanks for looking in Yves, and for your comment. For mounting the engine I needed at least mini steel screws M1,4, anything thinner than that rips off, just by srewing it in. I`ve learnt my lesson there, and scalewise its a small compromise is`nt it Nils
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Status : carrying on with the side deck support beams on the port side... I`m using 4 mm thick, 7 fold layer ply to cut out the sidebeam members to get a strong support connection. Probably there will be 9 short sidebeams per side, and they will be trimmed off to suit the cockpit width and the working area. There will also be lashes (brass sheet strips) that find their lower anchouring points attached between these sidebeam ends and the inner skin planking of the hull. I need these strips later to sufficiently fasten an extra foot-rail plank about (3 mm gap) above the later deck level. In the cabin area I wo`nt do too much timber joining work so the later cut out with view into the cabin wo`nt be spoilt (just as much as necessary for the static) Nils
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Many thanks for looking in B.E. I`m pleased you like the Zeesboot, it is a traditional two man crew workboat, as used for professional fishers in East German teritories on the Baltic sea near shores and mostly on the wide Bodden lakes, in this case motorized around the turn of the century, 1900, which caused the live fish containments to be shifted from where now the engine is, to right and left of the centerboard, The fishy smell must have been all throughout the boats and the clothing of the crew at that time. Nils
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