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John Ruy

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Everything posted by John Ruy

  1. Research 🧐 into the ownership of the original Bluenose. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_Walters Captain and part owner of the Bluenose, Angus James Walters. Interesting a Committee of Halifax Businessmen came together to build the Bluenose as Fishing Schooner that could win races internationally. Good stuff… It really was built as a racing schooner. Bluenose was constructed by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The schooner's keel was laid in 1920. The Governor General the Duke of Devonshire drove a golden spike into the timber during the keel-laying ceremony.[8] She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Smith, daughter of the shipbuilding Richard Smith.[9][10] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts, fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[11] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluenose#:~:text=Bluenose's captain and part,schooner reached the racing port.
  2. Fore Topmast complete… Replaced the CA glued Hilliard Shackles with the newly soldered one. Touched up the top tapper and placed the Gilt Ball. I cut off a white sewing pin 1/8” from the head a C A glued it in place. Trucks for the Flag Halliard Re so small at this scale, I will represent the truck with black thread. Now maybe I can move on to the Main Topmast. Cheers 🍻
  3. Just found this 8.5x11 sheet of Bluenose Flags on Ships of Scale. https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/attachments/bluenose-pdf.200877/ Bluenose.pdf
  4. Thanks Hamilton… Nope, I have never been a jeweler, LOL. Just working on my new skill sets to keep up with all you watchmakers out there. A steady hand and a good Optomitrist, helps. Oh! And a lot of help from my friends on MSW. 👍
  5. Thanks Phil, for the tip this should help my cleaning for my blackening process. I’m cleaning with Acetone but the brass black comes out spotty. John
  6. Tested… The shackles seem to be holding up. I do have to do one of these for the Main Topmast as well. So I thought I would give this a shot. Here is the process… Inside diameter brass ring 7/64” Applied flux prior to soldering and soldered the ring closed. Drilled holes to hang shackles. Needed this step to get a good mechanical connection for soldering. Applied flux and soldered. The metal alligator clip is a good heat sink to keep heat from getting to previous solder joint. Needs cleaning up. Filed inside wire and excess solder. Blackened and touched up with Testors Flat Black Enamel. I am having trouble getting a good black coat with the Brass Black only. Cheers 🍻
  7. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Nova_Scotia#:~:text=The flag of Nova Scotia,the province's coat of arms. Adopted in 1929 after a royal warrant was issued, it has been the flag of the province since January 19 of that year. I will probably fly this flag as well. 😎
  8. Beautiful… That would be a great model to build, if we could source the plans. 👍
  9. That’s OK… You saved me the embarrassment. Great Flag, much better than the Maple Leaf adopted in 1965. It’s all about the details. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_Red_Ensign
  10. We are about find out if I can solder the small @Dr PR has presented me with the challenge and I will give it a shot. I didn’t know I was looking for a Canadian Red Ensign flag. I was planning on using the flag supplied in the kit. Looks like you’re right though, we probably need to make our own. Now that you brought it up I’ll have to… Thanks
  11. Thanks Phil, for your confidence in my abilities regarding soldering. I will have to test the bond today and we will see if they hold up. I just may have to attempt soldering those shackles. I’ll let you all know how this experiment comes out. John
  12. Just when I thought parts couldn’t get any smaller… No way, could I solder this piece. CA glue to the rescue. I hope 🤞 Cheers 🍻
  13. WOW! Nice progress on those detailed deck items. Thanks for the reminder, I actually have a copy of that book. Just found it, I had forgotten it was under other reference materials. Looks like lots of good info on rigging. We will need it when we start tying knots. 🧐 I like how your windlass come out, good job. 👍
  14. Thanks… I agree, the excitement begins to build at this stage. I just hope every attachment point is there when I start the rigging. 😆 It’s a lot! LOL Still have recut the Mast Tackle Sheave. Had to use wood filler on the first attempt, it was pretty bad. Details! 🤪
  15. Fore Topmast… From sheet 4, this post covers everything you see here. These are the most detailed plans I have worked with to date. This “kit” is the most challenging build for me, stretching my skills and teaching me some new ones. 🧐 Throat Halliard Crane with Link Halliard Bands Iron Gate Spring Stay Bail Band Fore Topmast Heel Iron Fid Mast Cap Tapering the Fore Topmast Amber Shellac = Natural Oiled Finish Fore Topmast Complete 😎 Now we are starting to look like a tall ship. Up Next: Main Topmast Cheers 🍻
  16. Yves, Wow! Excellent detail on the iron bands. The details just keep coming on this build. John
  17. One more idea that’s really simple. I built this case and was quite happy with a black lacquer.
  18. Nice! I’ve been tossing an excellent source of fine metals for years. Cheers🍷
  19. Correction to previous post… As I proceeded to build hardware for the Trestle Trees and Spreaders, I discovered an error in cutting into the masts too deeply. The result was the Trestle Trees being to close together to accept the top mast heel. I therefore had to rebuild both Trestle Tree assemblies and patch both masts. The following is how I corrected my mistake. Here we can see the Trestle Trees are too close together to accept the Top Mast Heel. After disassembling the spreader trestle tree assembly and removing the Cheeks from the mast. I split a piece of dowel to fill in the deeply cut mast. Using PVA glue and clamping I restructured the mast. Lots of sanding required… A fresh coat of Amber Shellac and we are ready to start over. Here we go with attempt 2.0. Mark where the Cheeks are to be placed. Carve a flat space on both sides of the mast. Verify the proper widths required. Here we can clearly see the patch in the mast. Reassemble the Trestle Tree and spreaders. See previous post… Proper width achieved, mistake corrected. Rinse and repeat with the Main Mast. Cheers 🍻
  20. WARNING ⚠️ Mistakes made during assembly in the post. Please proceed to the following post for correct assembly of the Trestle Trees and Spreaders. Trestle Trees… Main Mast Trestle Tree complete ready for paint and hardware. Rinse and Repeat for the Fore Mast. Trestle Trees painted ready for hardware. Back to foundry with another Mast Cap. Next: Nine Eye Bands to build for the top of the Fore and Main Masts. Cheers 🍻
  21. Futtock Shroud Band… More Metal Work practice…. Band shaped and soldered to fit proper height on the Main Mast. Drill holes and insert wire to form shackles. Solder shackles in place. Use alligator clips to sink heat away from previous solder joints. File excess solder and shape brass. Repeat opposite side… Clip excess wire inside and file inside diameter smooth. Drilling out the excess solder that flowed into the shackle. (0.8 mm) Blacken after a bath in Acetone. Futtock Shroud complete… Ready to build Trestle Trees. Cheers 🍻
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