Kusawa2000

Everyone: Tried yesterday at the office.. the door was locked and gave Parks Canada a call today as well and left another voice mail.. I will keep trying. Its easier for me to keep bugging them

Mike Draper

9 hours ago, dvm27 said:

I certainly hope that is the case Mike. Jim was not only an incredible machinist but also a staunch supporter of our hobby. He'd be a tough act to follow.

Greg: No argument from me on him being a amazing machinist and supporter of the hobby. Its my hope that a new owner can keep Jims products out there for purchase. His tools are invaluable for the hobby.. 

MIKE

2 hours ago, dvm27 said:

Probably a mute discussion as the Byrnes saw will most likely be discontinued due to Jim's recent passing. I would say in general that the Byrnes saw is machined to much tighter tolerances than the Proxxon saw. For example I found the Byrnes fence is virtually impossible to deflect while in use and their extended fence is a press fit with four steel pins. My Proxxon had a slight bit of wobble when the fence was pushed. Perhaps such tight tolerances are not essential to the average ship model maker but keep in mind that many other hobbyists (such as luthiers) require .001" tolerances and I don't think you could repeatedly achieve these on the Proxxon without some modifications.

Greg: My understanding there is still interest in selling the Byrnes business so I dont think the final decision has been made yet on what is to happen with the business. Lets see what happens and what is announced.

Mike Draper

Tried again yesterday to visit the Parks Canada office and they were closed. I think they have the quick jump on the holidays. I will keep a eye out on the office and when they are open I will let everyone know what I find...

Mike Draper

update.. I forgot to go to the Parks Canada office on Monday but was down there today and there office is all locked up, I left a voice mail with them on the posted number  (867-667-3910) and I will go down on Wed and check again as well as give them another call if I dont get a return call.. I may got down there too late for today.

I will keep everyone posted. 

Mike Draper

2 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Mike, that would be incredible!

 

All I am looking for is any other Klondike drawings they may have; front/rear elevation, midships cross section; deck details, anything really which would help build an accurate model.

 

Thank you very much for taking an interest!

 

Regards,

Ian

i will talk to them on Monday.. I suspect I will get a contact person that get you that material directly from. If they prefer to give it to me we can talk about getting the material into a envelope to you. I assume you want to have the original plans as I remember they had a set of plans for modelers that were modified from original plans

If you need details on any aspect of the ship let me know... I can also go down to the SS Klondike and take pics as well. its a 2 block walk from my office.

Also.. I would recommend a book to get the link on amazon is The Klondike Gold Rush Steamers: A History of Yukon River Steam Navigation: Turner, Robert D.: 9781550178876: Books - Amazon.ca

And there was a good model of the Klondike in one of the hotels in town. I can check to see if its still there..

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Canada

3 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Addendum:  I've just emailed the Parks Canada SS Klondike historic site to ask after any other drawings they may have, which may have been judged not sales-worthy enough to  print up for the general public. Fingers crossed!

 

It seems the site may be temporarily closed at the minute. Don't know about the email address.

Ian: What do you need? The Parks Canada office is one floor below my office in Whitehorse. I can easily knock on their door.

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Canada

Go to the search engine at the very top of the MSW forum page and type in CAF models and you will get all the conversations about his models. His avatar name will be attached to one of those discussions and just click on his name and send him a personal message. He is good in responding

Mike Draper

We lost one of the good ones.. he was good friend and a master when it came to taking a concept or a idea and making it a reality. He will be missed.  

Ian: I live in Whitehorse (been here for over 30 years) and if you ever need pictures or plans (I know staff at Parks Canada) let me know. There is also a great book called Klondike Gold Rush Steamers  -a history of Yukon  river steam navigation by Robert Turner that is full of pics of the paddle wheeler. There is also a model of the klondike in one of the local hotels as well that is a good model of her. I prefer the SS Whitehorse.. she had nice lines but she was lost in the 1970s to a fire along with the Kaska. There are also 2 graveyards along the Yukon River of old paddlewheelers.. one in North Dawson and one in Hootalinqua. 

It will be great to see someone on MSW build a model... they are beautiful ships.. a lot of people didnt know they burned firewood while working on the rivers.. no coal in our neck of the woods! 

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Chuck: I noticed you have the 3mm single, double and triple blocks in the sold out listing.. will there be 4mm available sometime down the road.. just curious.. 

Thanks for any info

Mike Draper

Everyone: Its been a while since my last post. With the snow gone and into summer, been busy trying to get firewood cut and projects done. I have managed to get the upper planking above the wales completed on the Winchelsea. I do love that boxwood I am using for the hull planks! its a joy to work with!

I havent added any sealant yet but once I get the hull planking I will be giving it a few coats of Tung oil.  

I have also managed to get the starboard planks marked using the plank template guides. Will get the port side done tonite and start thinking about planking that hull. Been doing a lot of measuring twice, cutting once. I hope it pays off when I get into the planking. As I imagine everyone has discovered who has tackled this project, I have quickly noticed there is pretty low tolerance for measurements being slightly off.. I have been taking my time.. 🙂

Also.. thanks to all those that did a great job documenting their construction process. Your photos and posts have saved me some grief.. 

Mike Draper

15 minutes ago, garyshipwright said:

Thank's Mike. Maybe one day I just might be able to say she's finished. 

Gary: I used to know that feeling but I managed to get the Agamemnon finally finished..... But looking at your pictures, you must be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel?!

MIKE

Insane work Gary and great pics... thanks for posting!

Mike Draper

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

No only one package with plenty of leftovers.  Only ten ports have lids…20 hinges. 
 

 

Chuck: Ok.. thanks.. was thinking ahead and I havent read that chapter just yet.. I assume they will be available for a while?

Mike Draper

5 hours ago, Chuck said:

New Gun port hinge mini kits will be available tomorrow.  They are laser cut from a special high density plastic.  These were made specifically for the Winchelsea but I am sure they will fit other models.   They are .040" wide and 21/32" long.  I have ordered some material that will also produce 1/16" wide hinges (slightly wider).  But that hasnt arrived yet.   Some prefer a wider strap.   Those can easily be shaped differently too being extra wide. I will show that after I get them.   But these are the narrower ones and perfect for the Winnie or even Cheerful.   There are 36 hinges per package.   They can be made shorter if needed as well.   

 

1.  What a hinge looks like straight off the sheet.

 

2. Round off the bottom with fine sandpaper.  Drill a small hole for the split ring if needed.  Use a #76 drill bit for a 28 gauge wire ring.

 

3.  What the gport hinge pin looks like straight off the sheet.

 

4.  Sand the actual pin slightly thinner and to a point.  This will be inserted and glued into the hull above the port.  Also  insert and glue a length of 28 gauge black wire into the laser cut hole and cut off the excess as shown.  Use CA glue as it is plastic.

 

5.  Join the hinge strap and hinge pin by slipping the wire pin into the hole of the strap.  This makes a working hinge.

 

Once glued onto the port lid, you can sand the straps even thinner.  Just gently sand the face of the port with fine sandpaper and taper the hinge straps even thinner if you like.

 

Apply weathering powder if you like that look.   Make some split rings (not shown) and add them on the hinges as is typical.  

 

The store will reopen tomorrow as I am mending from a really bad flu....cant do much so I am just hanging around the shop till I get over this.  I had to shut down the store because I am out of stock with other things and just cant make any more rope until I feel better.  But there are about a dozen packages of these in stock.

 

 

Chuck

 

 

Chuck: So doing some quick math, if you were wanting to use these hinges for the Winnie, you would only need 2 packages? Enjoying the Winnie project! The boxwood I am using for planking is giving the Winnie a interesting look. Sorry to hear about your cold.. had one of those earlier in the year.. not fun....

Mike Draper

2 hours ago, Rustyj said:

Hi Mike. Chucks version of Speedwell Is high on the list.

 

Thank you B.E. I get so much inspiration from you, Chuck and so many other fine modelers here I can't name them all. Thank to you all. Thanks for the likes to!

Rusty: I will definitely be keeping a eye on your posts on that project..  that will be interesting to see develop

Mike Draper

36 minutes ago, Rustyj said:

Thanks James. It's always kinda sad when something you spent years doing comes to an end. But then on the other hand it opens up the shop to new adventures. That's always something to look forward to.

So Rusty.. what is the next project for your shipyard?

Mike Draper

1 hour ago, scrubbyj427 said:

The little bit of boxwood that I have worked with has turned out lovely with a good sanding and just WOP. I’m very tempted to do my next build in boxwood. 

thanks for the heads up! I will probably lean in that direction but i thought i would give tung oil a try...

Mike Draper

12 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Great start to your planking adventure! Boxwood will look great.

Thanks.. as Chuck has said a few times before.. dont rush.. take  your time.. 

and yes.. I agree.. the boxwood will look really good. I going to have to see if I use wipe on poly as a finish or tung oil. I will have to experiment on some waste wood first.. 

Mike Draper

Everyone: So.. got the first layer of the wale planks. As mentioned in a earlier message, I realized you needed to get that first wale plank in the right place for the rest of the planks to fit correctly on the hull. Since that message I have painted the gun ports. I have had to redo some of the wood finish on the gunports after painting as it showed that some gunports needed to be redone. I have also started the planking above the wale but I have only done one plank and only covering a area around 3 gunports. This is going to be a slow process for sure. I think the boxwood is going to work! 

And with another 6 inches of snow falling outside, it makes it easier to work on the Winnie!

Mike Draper

Congrats on reaching the finish line! I know that it seems sometime like a elusive goal but good on ya for keeping your hands on the tiller and finishing her. I have to admit now that I'm in the process of building my Winnie, your pictures have answered innumerable questions for me and I just want to say thanks for documenting your journey....

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Canada 

1 hour ago, FrankWouts said:

Looking very good Mike, well done,

Any updates on your first planks?
Frank.

Frank: Actually yes! I am nearly done the first planking of the wales as well as the planking below the Stern gallery windows. I have also milled the boxwood I will be using for the hull planking. I used the Alaskan cedar for the wales and below the windows as they will either be painted or covered in ornamentation. But I got access to some amazing boxwood and its colour and hardness was perfect for the Winnie.

Also, as Chuck outlined in his chapter 2, that first wale is critical in getting it aligned. It was a real hassle getting it just right.  I had a few false starts. But after all of that framing work it was a real pleasure to get some planks on her. 

I will post some pictures as soon as I can get the wales done and get that first plank using the boxwood.. Im stoked!

Mike Draper

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Time to put some meat on those bones. That a great foundation for planking.

Chuck: Cant wait to start planking but I have made sure I dont rush things. I see with how everything is designed, things need to be dead on accurate. Im thinking of using Boxwood for the hull planks... leave the stern planking and wales alaskan cedar as they are either painted or covered with a frieze but I have got a hold of some nice boxwood. I will see how it goes! 🙂 

MIKE

Everyone: Not the best pics but I have done the framing.. have marked the location of the wales but want to double check it. Figured I need to double check everything before the planking begins! Not a lot of room for error what I can gather and its a pleasure to work on a project where that is built into the kit. Enjoying every minute of it.

Mike Draper