Kusawa2000

3 hours ago, FrankWouts said:

Beautiful build af the Agamemnon Mike!

Twelve years, wow, I thought I was slow here with my Winie build…

Great to follow your build!
Frank.

 

Frank: how long it took to complete the Agamemnon was a bit of a surprise when I tallied up the time it took but life seems to have a way of snagging my free time.. Thanks for the compliment on the Agamemnon. Hope I can do a good job on the Winnie

Mike Draper

4 hours ago, druxey said:

Welcome back, Mike! Cold equals model-making time!

Thanks! if that is the case I will be making some serious progress this winter while I look at my wood shed quickly empty... 

Mike Draper

3 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

That makes me shiver just reading it!

Trust me.. you never get used to those cold temperatures. You make sure the wood shed is full and you have hobbies to keep you sane. 

Mike Draper

Everyone: Its been a while since I lasted posted any progress pics. I figure getting the gunport framing completed wouldnt take too long. Boy.. was I wrong. Between getting the framing all properly aligned and then getting all the frames faired correctly took a lot longer than I planned. It didnt take to long to figure out there is no point rushing this part.. and I have a few pieces of discarded framing pieces to show for it. In any case I suspect I will need to do a few more touch ups but I can say this part is done.... now the rear stern pieces. I did think about getting some detailed shots but there are some good reference pictures already out there.. I figure I can let ya know that the -40c weather we have been having has been a great incentive to make some progress on the Winnie.

Mike Draper
 

17 hours ago, chris watton said:

Whilst continuing to develop this nice little Baltimore privateer schooner, I am thinking of what else to do in 2023. As I have Indy, I am almost compelled to develop a Patrick O’Brian vessel from the Aubrey & Maturin series, HMS Surprise (much smaller than Indy), complete with Aubrey & Maturin figures. I am not sure, what you guys think?

HMS Surprise? You have my vote

Mike Draper

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

I didnt have any plans to make those for the Winnie.   Strictly speaking in terms of following a typical contemporary model.  No rope and no anchors or rigged guns etc.  But yes all of that can be added to make each of your own models unique.   Except for a possibly ships barge this project is completed.  As an homage to those contemporary models....like this one.

 

 

Chuck

Chuck: Good point with comparing to what is on a dockyard model. Thanks for the reply. I will have to give it some thought on whether or not to add anchors. 

I may also add a flag on the stern.. may need to check into that a bit more. 

Mike Draper

Hey Chuck: It is sure nice to see a finished product... and that there is a finish line somewhere out there.

I do have one question.. is there any thought about anchors coming from Syren or is that a DIY project? Was just curious. I think it would be a great DIY project 

Thanks 

Mike Draper

51 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

More than whatever time it takes to closely follow the plans and monograph to get the infrastructure correct, pays dividends over and over as you move forward.

Glenn: Couldnt have said it better.. I have been working on the hull at a glacial speed. 🙂

MIKE

14 minutes ago, Chuck said:

The sills run parallel to the deck actually.  This is what the laser etched marks are lined up for.  Follow them and also keep them flat on top port to starboard.   But they will angle fore and aft to match the run of the gun deck.

 

Chuck

Chuck: Thanks! That is what I thought. When I was dry fitting the sills, it was the adjacent laser etched marks that got me wondering if the sills were to sit 90 degrees to the bulkheads or follow the laser etched marks of the adjacent bulkheads. Appreciate the quick response. I have learned in the past that its these small details that come back to haunt you. 

MIKE

Question to the Winchelsea crew (or more a confirmation my approach is correct): Im cutting the cross pieces for the gun ports. While I understand to use the laser cut hash mark to locate where they are located on the bulkhead, my question is do you have the cross pieces run with the hull (thus have them align with the hash mark on the adjacent bulkhead) or have them sit 90 degrees to the bulkhead. I have checked pics from other builders and it appears that everyone is having them oriented to the run of the hull but I just want to confirm before I get to far along.. 

Thanks in advance..

MIKE

Everyone: Some progress. It was such an enjoyment being able to have bulkheads fit with a minimum of trouble. Now time to make some sawdust and fair the bulkheads. And with snow on the ground here in the Yukon, I look forward to a lot of time with the Winchelsea

Mike Draper

That is one large, beautifully insane kit! Simply wow! 

Mike Draper

On 10/19/2022 at 5:34 AM, yvesvidal said:

Mike,

 

Yes that 1/10th scale model is located in the Japanese museum, commemorating the Yamato, if I am not mistaken. That model is incredible.

 

Yves

Yves: I managed to get over to Kure in Japan and see the model. It is totally insane. Amazing level of detail and with the way its displayed you can check out every angle of the model. If you are thinking to build the Yamato it's the place to visit. The rest of the museum is interesting as well. They have the Zero airplane as well as flags and other memorabilia from the Yamato. They have also laid down a footprint of the actual size of the ship near the museum as well so you can appreciate the size of the battleship. 

Mike Draper

2 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Mike, your Agamemnon look just fantastic! Well done! I’ll have to go over and throughly go through your log
 

As far as the false keel on your Winnie, if I remember right I only had one piece as well. I’m pretty sure I just Milled them according to the drawings.I think I even just ran the waste trees from the parts through my saw for the wood, it already had the char on it so it worked out well.

Looks like you’re off to a good start. 
JJ

I think that is what I may do as well. I do have some leftover pieces that can easily be milled. Thanks for the followup. 

MIKE

Hey Everyone: After a long haul (12 years) I have finally finished my Agamemnon. While I know this doesn't have much to do with building the Winnie, for me I just want to post a few pictures so I can put her on the "done" pile. Now I am keen on getting started with the Winnie after watching everyone work on her for the last year or so. 

In addition to the pictures of the Agamemnon I have included a few pictures of my progress so far. I have managed to get the stem assembled and tapered to fit the figurehead as well as get the bulkhead plate assembled and have the rabbet tapered and in place with the stem glued. But before I move ahead with working on the keel at the stern end of the hull, I do have one question for the "Winnie vets". The chapter talks of the false keel being a plank of wood 1/16" x 1/4". Now with the wood package I can only find one piece of wood that fits that description. Am i missing something? Everything I read indicates there is more than one plank but I can only find one. If I have to mill something I dont have a problem doing that I just wanted to see if I was overlooking something. Any information would be appreciated. 

Thanks

Mike Draper

1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

Mike, this is superb !!! 

 

It is now time to start the CAF Bellona.....

 

Yves

Yves: Tempting.. but I have the Winchelsea next in the lineup... 

MIKE

Everyone: Its done..... after 12 years of on again.. off again work, my HMS Agamemnon (Aggy) is finally completed. Im still waiting for a friend to make me a stand for it but the rigging is finally finished. Its bit surreal that I can say that but she no longer darken my shipyard but instead have a nice spot on a shelf in our living room. 

Did a lot of "kit bashing" with her.. milled maple planks for the deck and hull, treenailed the deck, have full guns and carriages on the gun deck either than the dummy guns supplied with the kit, rigged the guns, made my own flag, and added a "few" sails (made by friend Wendy!).  It was a great project. took a littl longer than planned but glad its done and I can now move onto my next project the HMS Winchelsea through Chuck Passaro's practicum. Definitely ready for a new project. 

Enjoy the pics! 

MIKE

4 hours ago, Chuck said:

You are welcome.   I will be the first to admit that I take forever to design and produce these projects.   I cant rush through them.  So many kit mfgs seem to announce the availability of new kits every few months.   That is something I can never do.  This next project will be a bit of wait.   Hopefully worth it.  POF projects have triple the parts and more complexity.   I prefer quality over quantity any day.

 

I am also trying out some new design features to make it easier to build.

 

Chuck

Chuck: All I can say.. is keep at it. Just delved into the first dozen pages of chapter 1 of the Winchelsea project and I can say I am definitely looking forward to this project!

Mike Draper

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

Thank you so much guys.  Its always a bit weird when you finish project that took years.  I cant believe its done actually.

 

writing the last chapter today.

Chuck: Thanks for the "keep at it" approach.  There are often so many promises out there for a final product and the completion date keeps getting pushed back. Its nice to see the follow through. 

MIKE

11 hours ago, kiwiron said:

Found more broken parts. Quality control is poor. No answer to emails to Jotika but supplier of kit has been very good. 

If waiting for a new part is going to be lengthy why dont you use the broken part as a template and draw it on the remaining wood on the sheet. then using a table saw, or a hand saw, cut it out of the sheet and then sand it to the shape you need... there is nothing worse than waiting for replacement parts. I have had to do that a few times.. more for parts that went missing (wheels off a gun carriage that disappear into a carpet).

Mike Draper

On 7/26/2022 at 4:18 PM, garyshipwright said:

Well hello Mike. Been a while since we last talk and wonder what you been up to. You know you been working on Agamemnon as long as I can remember. Hoping with Chuck making a lot of the part's maybe just maybe I just might get her finish in a couple of years. Of course that also depends on the time  invested in working on Montague which may take just a little bit  longer. Have been keeping a eye on this build, waiting for Chuck to get far enough a head and a lot of the bug's worked out.  I must say he has done a heck of a job on this ship. Am sure that there are really great kits to build out there but have settled on this one. Another thing is the price of the build is broken down over time which makes it a lot easier to pay for with out the misses making me walk the plank. It's like  comparing it to  buying a set of expensive plans, cost a lot but when you break them down for the amount of time it take's you to build it it like pennies on the dollar,  It should be interesting and  lot of fun to build.

Hey Gary: Yup..  I have been working on the Agamemnon way too long but I can say Im close to the finish line.. thank god.. the last few months have been a slog. Adding sails to her was a not my brightest of moves.. but I do like how she looks. I have been getting all of the Winnies chapters and parts installments collected and keen on starting but I do need to get the Agamemnon finished. I have some flags to make, anchors to rig, and some stern lanterns to install. And I do need to get the woodshed filled for next winter as well. Its nice cutting firewood in the summer with the long days rather than being in a rush in the fall while its threatening to snow.

But I do agree Chuck has done a amazing job on this project and I cant wait to get started. I agree the installments did help keep the sting out of it.

I will definitely keep a eye out for your build and I will be posting my Agamemnon when she is completed and also when I start the Winnie. 

Take care and good to hear from you

Mike Draper

On 7/10/2022 at 10:41 AM, garyshipwright said:

Well I have finally pulled the plug and decided to start a build log on building the Winchelsea while also working on my 74. Why some will ask, some  times it's nice when you don't have to make all the parts and piece's, but she still have a lot of parts and pieces to make along with the ones that Chuck makes for her. Some call her a kit but I would say 50 50, and  to me it still takes as much skill and understanding to build her as well as a 74.  May take a little time to get her up and running but am working on that.  I can't seem to find the answer to how long , wide and thick does the build board need to be? I came across that the hull length which is 38 inches so a  length of 42 to 46 inches would be just about right. Tomorrow I plan on going to have the plan's blown up to a 100 percent which should help me figure out the size of the build board along with other question I have, and then I can start cutting and make the bulkheads along with the her Bulkhead former.  Glad to be aboard. Gary

Hey Gary: Glad to see you are getting on board with this project. Its on my "next to do" after I finish the million little things that need to be done on the Agamemnon before I say that project is done. I am stoked on getting it started and look forward to a fresh, new project later this summer. i will be keen on seeing your progress.

Mike Draper

On 5/26/2022 at 9:17 AM, yvesvidal said:

 

Mike, yes the decals are water transfer, like regular decals. They are simply a lot thicker than what you find in plastic model kits. By the same token, they are also more robust. 

 

To apply: I use Future Floor Pledge as a base coat, to make the paint and the wood more receptive to the flat surface of the decal underside, I place the decal, let it dry and coat is with another light application of Future Floor pledge, by brush.

 

Yves

Yves: Thanks! 

Mike Draper

On 5/12/2022 at 10:29 AM, Chuck said:

Thats cheating....

 

Like the Capstan and stove there are plenty of little pieces.  But having this made of boxwood really does add a lot to the model if done well.

 

That goes without saying...but for these mini kits there are two other secret weapons.  They may seem obvious but it is often overlooked.

 

First....Keep it clean....Wash your hands thoroughly first.  Like you were going into surgery.   Keeping tiny parts clean is so crucial.   Use lots of sand paper.  Meaning as soon as it gets dirty with char, throw it away.  Otherwise it will just dirty up all your parts.  I went through so much 400 grit sandpaper making the lantern.   Removing the char carefully without getting it on my fingers and spreading it around.

 

Second....magnification....when making these small fittings I use the strongest magnification possible.   You can only see when its 5" in front of you and this helps a lot.  Great for tight joints on small parts and keeping your parts clean.

 

The lantern probably should have been a bit higher but I couldnt bring myself to drill through the boat carving on the stern.   I drilled for the bracket through the water instead.  This proved to be a mistake after looking at it for a while.  So since these pictures were taken I moved the lantern higher and filled the hole in the carving.  Its much better now.   And you cant tell I ever hesitated.

I have a ton more construction photos and will be processing them soon.  But while working on the model I have now fallen so far behind with rope making and other parts I will be very busy for the next week.  So no more building for me.  

 

But this just leaves the headwork.   From the photos of the hull above that is pretty much what the finished hull will look like since you cant see the headrails arent completed.   I have to write chapter 11 as well.

 

Chuck

 

Chuck: Ok.. I have to ask.. how did you pull off the candle with the wax dripping at its base.. No one mentioned it and I have been debating for the last hour how you pulled it off.. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. The Lantern project is very impressive.. a definite thumbs up!

Mike Draper

5 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

Mike, yes the decals are water transfer, like regular decals. They are simply a lot thicker than what you find in plastic model kits. By the same token, they are also more robust. 

 

To apply: I use Future Floor Pledge as a base coat, to make the paint and the wood more receptive to the flat surface of the decal underside, I place the decal, let it dry and coat is with another light application of Future Floor pledge, by brush.

 

Yves

Yves: Thanks for the response. I have looked at the decals and wondered if they were water transfer or some other process. Never thought to use Future floor policy as a sealer. 

Mike Draper