Papa

First I applied etching primer to the bronze parts I wanted to enamel, then I enameled them, then assembled the engine.

And finally some dry fit assembly:

I then went on to glue the bulwarks and installed the eye bolts as well:

This is my first build log and third model. The first model was Bluejacket's 1889 Quoddy Boat "Yankee Hero" - Scale: 3/8"=1; LOA: 14 7/8" Height 14". The kit consisted of a solid hull, precut parts for the deck house, paint, tools, and detailed instructions plus modeling techniques and tips. It was a first rate introduction into modeling.
 
My second model was Wooden Boat School's Catspaw Dinghy - Scale: 1 1/2"=1' LOA: 19" Breadth: 7". I had purchased the kit some time ago. Upon opening it I discovered there were no pre-cut parts, only a box full of model sized "lumber". I did not have the time to attempt constructing the model, so put it away in the basement. Upon completing "Yankee Hero" in September 2018, I decided that now I was retired, I had time for the Catspaw Dinghy. When I opened the box I discovered that I had bought the kit in 1993 - 14 years before starting the build!!! The kit is plank on frame and required building a mold upon which the model was constructed upside down, just as a full size dinghy would be. There were many challenges particularly spiling the 1/32" basswood strakes. Thank goodness there were lots of uTube videos to provide guidance. (I was unaware of Model Ship World at the time or would have come here for help also.) The spiling learning curve provided numerous opportunities for trials and errors. Fortunately there was a ready supply of 1/32" basswood at the local hobby shop so I did not run out of "lumber". When it came time to install the cherry shear strake, though, I prudently made a basswood mockup first for use as a pattern for my only piece of cherry. Overall it was a most rewarding experience that generated a feeling of true accomplishment - turning a stack of "lumber" into a boat.
 
"Atlantic" was a three masted schooner that was launched in 1903 and made 20 knots during her sea trials. She won the Kaisers Cup in a Transatlantic race in 1905 and set a set monohull speed record that stood until 1998. The model particulars are:  Scale: 1/8"=1'; Length 28 1/2"; Height 20 1/2".  The kit consists of a solid hull, and instruction manual. A single plan shows the Sail Plan, 1/2 Underbody Plan, 1/2 Deck Plan, Side Elevation of the Deck Structure, 1/2 Stern View, and 1/2 Bow View.  The plan is the only source of dimensions and hardware and furniture locations.
 
As a first step I inventoried the kit's contents and made a list of where each fitting went (including all 90 blocks) and the the purpose of each piece wood
 
Then I marked the center line and station lines.

Next I marked on the hull the location of each station and the water line.
 

The final step in preparing to shape the hull was to make the templates. First I traced the contours from the 1/2 bow and stern views from the plan using baking parchment paper which is sturdy and transparent. Next I pin-pricked the contours onto shirt cardboards and then cut them out.
 

The contours of the hull blank did not come close to those of the templates. The bow and stern particularly were toughly "rough cut".
 


After many hours of sanding the contours are now satisfactory.
 
 

Next step is to carve the bulwarks down to 1/32" thick and a depth of 11/32" from roughly 4/32" deep while maintaining a slight "rounding" of the deck of 3/32" from centerline to side.
 
 

 

Hello fellow builders!
I'm a retired graphic artist and I enjoy spending my time scratch building ship and other things. I'm always amazed by how many talented builders are out there and in this digital world we still use our hands to make beautiful things. Cheers to you all! 

More detail installed on the deck.
 
Regards,
David

I haven't added any other decals so far........my typing went to the dogs today.....correcting as I go along.  I did add a couple more parts.......still have to finish the gunner repair.  curious.....I put the wings on......I hesitate gluing them on because I think it will be easier adding the smaller decals with the wings off.  ,,,better than juggling the whole plane...it is a large model    I also fitted it on the stand........I was impressed with how it looks,  but I took it off and will save it till the final reveal.   I don't think I've ever been this attentive creating a replica of this subject........most of the time,  I simply took the kit's 'word' for it that this was what it looked like.  at first,  the walkways I painted on looked a bit off......I should have redone them.   but as I hoped,  seeing the assembled plane,  they don't look bad at all  

again.......I didn't think to measure the wing span......I believe I did it earlier in the log though.

I had to close the blinds for these........the sun is a rare thing these days..........been cold and gloomy with frequent rain.   we've even seen squalls of snow.  glad I removed the walkway over the nacelles...looks more like the real plane.   I've done most of the fuselage mating touch ups...the topside is done.  the bulkheads are a big problem here.....even though I shaped and sanded the edges of them,  they still posed a problem when the halves went together.  I even removed all the guide tabs on the bulkheads,  so they wouldn't be there to create the gap problems I had.......I had 'em anyway.

the Lindberg kit may not be a first choice,  but it does make into a pretty neat model.  I was looking at box art the other day........I saw kits {judging from the box art} that I would never buy,  because they looked like toys!
   Monogram has a series of models that sports the model as the art.......some look really toy-like.   well,  the admiral wants to do the errands early.........silver lining,  since it might give me the afternoon to get something done.    in the grand scheme of things,  there isn't much left to do.

Welcome on  the build of Revell's Bounty scale 1/110
I got this kit for free from friends who cleaned up their attic.
 
My first idea when I opened the box. Was oops ....
On closer examination, it turned out that the model design probably dates from 1956. The mold is from 1978. Therefore the "lesser quality" of the details to current standards. 

First, i wanted to throw everything away. But it had some trouble with this idea.
 
So why not start on it and try to add some extra details.
This will not be an exact copy. My biggest challenge to make this model a bit nicer than what can be made with the contents of the kit. I am not going to buy extra parts, only items and plastic sheet from the parts box will be used.
My only experience with plastic ship models dates from my younger years.  I have only experience with military models in scale 1/72
So we shall what the future brings.
Main goals are : making of a good model and have fun.
 
Info about the ship and voyage
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Bounty
 
Royal museum Greenwich
https://prints.rmg.co.uk/search?q=bounty&type=product

 
Info about the Revell model
https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/sailings-ships/h-m-s-bounty.html 
 
the deck is equipped with molded on details. Removing all this and making them new is impossible.  That's why I make a new deck first 
Engrave the deckplanks on plastic sheet

 
Add hatches and "grating" (This grating may be replaced later by something else)
 
Opening for a ladder. I dont throw plastic leftover parts away ....

 
A first test to see if the deck fits.  and... it fits 

With 2 Bradley's in the background 
 
to be continued, thanks for following.

Planking has begun. Nothing too exciting really. The schooner hull makes things easier here at the bow for sure,, and there are a good number of bulkheads. 
 
I'm not planning to be super anal about the planking, since the hull will be fully painted. 

Planksheer outer strip is installed and the bulkhead extensions that were previously removed have been replaced and shaped to follow the curve of the hull, both inboard and out. Next up will be fabricating the false frame extensions that go between the ones shown here. There are two between each bulkhead. 

Planking is FUN!!
 

Your Triumph came out super nice! Looks like the real thing.
Something I was thinking about last night and your model reminded me of it...the helmet carried on the back of the motorcycle does not appear to be a standard British issue, or was it? 
 

Different make I think  but thought I would post  it to you  I dont know perhaps colour reference   - 
 
OC.

It turns out that I hadn’t lost the decals. I put them in a “safe” place. Which really means hidden away until you run across them by accident after they are no longer needed.

It turns out that I hadn’t lost the decals. I put them in a “safe” place. Which really means hidden away until you run across them by accident after they are no longer needed.

I mounted my Benjamin W Latham (similar profile to the Bluenose)  using 2 walnut blocks with the same cross section but different heights. 

I’ve looked too, since I discovered a distant cousin who owned her some time after she found floating with no crew. There doesn’t even seem to be a decent set of plans for scratch building. 

Steps 4 and 5 of the coal tender
 

With steps 4 and 5 complete, all that's left are decals and some weathering of the coal tender.
 

 
I'll get some decals and weathering in place, then present some final pictures of the locomotive and tender combination.

I mounted my Benjamin W Latham (similar profile to the Bluenose)  using 2 walnut blocks with the same cross section but different heights. 

It turns out that I hadn’t lost the decals. I put them in a “safe” place. Which really means hidden away until you run across them by accident after they are no longer needed.

It turns out that I hadn’t lost the decals. I put them in a “safe” place. Which really means hidden away until you run across them by accident after they are no longer needed.

Progress photo. Working on the pilot house. I am considering putting a wheel in there like I did on my Chaperon. 
I’ve also added some hinges. I drew them in SketchUp, made multiple copies and then shrunk the image until it looked about right. Then I cut them from the paper and attached with a dab of white glue.

The captain of the CoP likes his new shiny rails on the pilot house but wonders if they should be painted green to match the other trim.

I mounted my Benjamin W Latham (similar profile to the Bluenose)  using 2 walnut blocks with the same cross section but different heights. 

I mounted my Benjamin W Latham (similar profile to the Bluenose)  using 2 walnut blocks with the same cross section but different heights.