Papa

Very nice looking model.
I did the Monitor about 25 years ago. I used the copper strips i had left over from coppering the Essex to simulate the plating. I embossed rivets (man was that boring) around all the edges. Once painted it look great.

Hi all well the transom will have to be done in small pieces, the ornamentation is making me crosseyed

I had some of those c!amps. I think I got them from Model Expo.  They are not high quality; the metal is soft and after a few uses the screw part snapped off of the handle. Also, they split the bulkheads.

Not really happy with the curve of the fashion pieces, on next day I play again with my little files and try to obtain a more smooth shape.
A new coat of teak oil was applied. The result is a little bit better.
 
Now it's time for a less difficult part of the building with the first external planking of the upper hull.

I like the methodical work preparing the keel and bulkheads. Nice job. I hope I can do as well on my next build.

Managed to complete the rails, pins and safety wire. More than a little fiddly. Have a feeling that will be a theme for much of the rest of the build.
Bowsprit next and need to work out what to do about some misalignment.

This is a beautiful ship. I will watch this log.
 

Denis,
 
The wood is in fact Western red cedar -well done!!.
 
It looks much too reddish in the posted photo that was taken under 3k soft halogen-ceiling lights.
Here is a more representative shot. Still working on a way to attach the ship to the base. I do not want to drill side holes into the keel.
These four brass Pegasus I had “antiqued” looking. They will add a nice touch.
 
Made a nameplate. Was going to drill small holes at each corner and add brass nails, then I remembered my left over canon door lions. 
The nameplate (done at a local trophy shop) is not brass – they could not etch my chosen font and text in brass. So instead they laser printed the text on a “look like brass” plastic plate.
 

 

I like seeing the interior detail.  Nice work.
 

Hello all,
 
after building the Dragon, I'm starting now the blog about building the Tiger from 1747.
 
The Tiger was a 60 gunner after the 1745 establisment. Last year I ordered the plans for the 60 gunners of the 1745 establishment, but learned later that all the 6 ships, build after that plan, where all a little different. So I decided to build the Tiger and that, because it was the only plan that shows also the artwork of the ship. Interessting is also, that they moved the captains cabin sometimes down to the upper deck! There was more space.
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!csearch;searchTerm=Tiger_(1747) Here you could see the plans.
 
Then last fall I went to Chatham to see two models of 60 gunners, the Centurion and a unspecified ship (SLR0442 SLR0472). Both ships from the 1730s, but the models are made ca. 1745/47. They will be my reference for the Tiger.
 
And because I had build the Dragon already with frames, I decided to be lazy and build in the bulwark technique. So I started early this year with the hull and that he is.
 

 

 

 
 
 
But before I started with the hull, I made the figure head. Just to see if I could do it after pause for a year. 
 

 
And before the questions come, with what did you do the carving, here is most of it to see. Just with hand tools. To the right you see Leo the second.
 

 
And here is Leo III. From toe to crown hi is 9 cm high, in reality he was 4,5 m high  
 

 

 

 
Here Leo did a sit sample. The guy in the background it's me. 
 

 

 
The next steps would be to close the counter and then made the cannon ports. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

Here is a photo of the windlass. It comes as a neat little kit of its own. I have stained the posts with permanent marker, which is quick and tidy. 

This is a beautiful ship. I will watch this log.
 

I've been going since start of Jan. Few progress pics here:
   

Friday 20 October 2017
More pictures with details of the finished model.
 
01 Ragusian Carrack/Images/4CB_4592 DUBROVAČKA KARAKA 16. ST.jpg

02 Ragusian Carrack/Images/4CB_4601 DUBROVAČKA KARAKA 16. ST.jpg

03 Ragusian Carrack/Images/4CB_4604 DUBROVAČKA KARAKA 16. ST.jpg

04 Ragusian Carrack/Images/4CB_4607 DUBROVAČKA KARAKA 16. ST.jpg

05 Ragusian Carrack/Images/4CB_4613 DUBROVAČKA KARAKA 16. ST.jpg

Nice work.

I believe I purchased my hobbyzone ship building jig from hobbyworldusa. Good price and it was shipped promptly.

I believe I purchased my hobbyzone ship building jig from hobbyworldusa. Good price and it was shipped promptly.

You can never have too many clamps.☺

I have been finishing the bulwarks, and  rails for the quarterdeck and forecastle. Everything is dry fitted right now. I assembled the pieces, then filled in any gaps and spaces with spackle, sanded, added primer, then finally painted each piece. 

Here is a look at the quarter galleries with the moulding complete. I also mounted the hull to begin completing the deck furnishings and start masting.

Did the box have a notice that "whiskey and glass are not included"?  

Did the box have a notice that "whiskey and glass are not included"?  

Here is the glued up well and shot locker. I need to add the hinged lids for the shot locker as well as the access door to the well.



This part is the first in which I had to address the issue of scale. I came to an interesting conclusion. The kit is listed at 1:93 scale, or just slightly larger than 1/8" = 1 foot. At that scale, the hold would be 10 scale feet deep and the space between the decks would be about 7 scale feet! Very doubtful any ship existed in the 18th century with that kind of head room. I suspect the scale is much closer to 3/16" or 1:64, giving the space between decks at slightly less than 5 feet. I'm going to build to that scale going forward.



Regarding the lids and access door: I'm planning to use boxwood for the contrast with the pear. Anyone disagree and vote for pear for those parts? The other two photos show this wood combination for the well in my AVS build.

a little work on the mast