Bill97
-
Posts
2,559 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Bill97
-
That sounds like a great plan Ian. I still have the Constitution rigging instructions booklet which I will use for sequence of lines then refer to Longridge’s book to see how he advises rigging that similar line. 👍
-
Ian let me ask you and anyone else that cares to respond to this question. How do/did you use Longridge’s book as a reference guide? I still have not got a good grip on that. Hence my previous question. Do you simply start at the chapter that begins the rigging process and follow sequentially through the book adding the designated lines as you go or do you follow the Heller instructions (which we all admit is tough) and look to Longridge’s book for guidance on that particular rope (thread) even if it means jumping all around in his book? I am very much a sequential builder. Do this line, then this line, and so on. I know I do the standing rigging before the running rigging. In my previous builds, especially the Revell USS Constitution, the instructions gave the sequence of every single line including the pin it tied too. I must admit I really liked that.
-
Thanks one more time Ian. After reading your reply I realized I had a “da” moment! That photo is obviously not of the bottom deadeyes. Just this one photo you attached of your Victory shows some incredible rigging! Beauty that I can only hope to get close to. I have an idea. How bout I bring my ship and meet you somewhere in between like Detroit and have you rig mine for me 😁.
-
Ian in the photo on page 233 it shows the line (topgallant shroud) to be attached to the deadeye rather than an eyebolt. Is either method acceptable or am I misreading.
-
Thanks Ian. Your help is always so appreciated! I am guessing like the other advance rigging steps I just attach an appropriate length of thread and coil it up for now?
-
The Heller standing rigging diagram shows a 3rd line running to the top of the mizzenmast even though there is only 2 deadeyes on the chain plate. I wonder if the line I questioned in the previous post is this line and if so, what is it attached to at the bottom?
-
OK gentlemen here is your next quiz. I have looked through Longridge’s book and searched through the Heller instructions but can’t put my finger on this early rigging step. In the picture I am instructed to do something with a line near the mizzenmast backstay chain plate. I know I will eventually run standing rigging up to the mizzenmast and attach to deadeyes on this chain plate but I am not confident what this line is that I am instructed to thread before assembling parts 142 and 143. No idea what is meant by (ref - 1032 length 60mm). Can’t make out if this line is also attached to the chain plate.
-
Oh OK Ian. I looked back. I remember now. Thanks for the reminder. I still don’t remember all the terms and names of parts and have to scroll back or ask questions. 😊
-
Ok Ian I am still learning nautical terms. Your last comment “feed that main tack through the chess tree” might have went over my head! 😊
-
Thanks Ian. That is an interesting idea doing it in reverse. Never thought about doing it that way! Have been away from my Victory for almost a week. Went on a little family trip to beautiful Kentucky Lake. For some reason my wife would not let me bring it along to work on! How inconsiderate was that? 😀 Since returning to my “ship yard” I have modified the channels as recommended by Daniel and installed them. After what has seemed like forever I am close to finishing Step 9!
-
I am still a long way from mast and rigging but I am curious for discussion purposes which method you guys prefer during your builds reference masts and their standing rigging? I see on MSW that builders use various sequences to complete this task. Do you prefer to work your way up gradually from the deck by installing the bottom portion of the mast and then the shrouds for that section, and then the middle section of each mast, and so on? Do you build the complete mast off the ship, then install it followed by all the rigging? Or do you build the complete mast on the ship and then start all the rigging? I am wondering with the need to add Daniel’s etched parts for the mast if it is better/easier to build the mast off the ship but then I consider how much easier it is to loop the shrouds around the top of the bottom section before adding the middle section. This same curiosity includes the installation of the yards on the mast. When do you prefer to do it? I am going to attempt making those rigging pieces used to hold the yards to the mast (I forget what they are called) since Heller does not provide an anchor point for the yards. Is this better to do all the yards on the mast with the mast not on the ship or one at a time working my way up with mast on the ship? And final thought now (definitely not final thought on the subject, just right now😊), are the yards raked off perpendicular to the hull, and if so about what degree? I am guessing this is personal preference and if the ship is with or without sails, and furled or not. I am considering furling all the sails to enable seeing all the rigging and internal delicate work. Not sure yet. I would then guess if I am going to rake the yards it would have to be once mast is installed on the ship in order to get uniform angle. Like I said, a lot of mast, yard, and rigging curiosity for opinion and discussion on a Fall Saturday morning. 😊
-
Thanks Marc. As an old retired guy I have the luxury of spending some time every day if I want.
-
Ok gentlemen right, wrong, or indifferent I put copper and nail “holes” on the belfry, quarter galleries, and beak head. I think it looks pretty cool and matches the copper hull. Zooming in I can tell I need to add some additional nail heads. Also have my new rail around the stair case opening.
-
Thanks Ian. The replacement part source is good to know. I found the Heller rail and post to be pretty fragile anyway so I just made something a bit stronger once I paint it black no one will know. Unfortunately a section of the original rail and post is down on the Upper deck somewhere as it fell in the opening never to be retrieved! 🤨 That is a curiosity I have and have so far been fortunate enough to be able to get out. I have a few times now bumped a cannon barrel hard enough to dislodge it from the carriage and have it go into the ship. Since I have not glued the stern in place yet I have been able to get to it. Once I put the stern on and close the decks up anything knocked loose will be forever lost if below the upper deck. I guess in that case you just close the hatch. Ian there are 3 places I painted to look like an old metal (lead color roof). The belfry, the roofs of the quarter galleries, and the 2 side sections of the bulkhead. Since you say they should be copper clad I think I am going to try adding the copper to them that I put on the hull. Should make for an interesting look. Will let you know.
-
Worked on a few different things over the last few days. Got the ship’s bell and the chimney like thing put in with Daniel’s enhancements. Accidentally destroyed the railing around the steps that down from the Quarter deck to the Upper deck 😩 so I had to fabricate a new one. Got a number of the pieces in that go along the inside edge of the hull that have pins for future rigging and the cannon ball racks. And started working on making the fore channels wider as Daniel recommends.
-
Thanks Daniel. I appreciate it. I was actually looking at pages 13 and 16. In both of those, especially 16, it looked as if you added evergreen to all of the channels. That may be just to get uniformity in vertical thickness
-
Daniel I am reading over the instructions for your plate #3. You have the section where you advise to widen the fore channels to the same width of the main channels so the shrouds don’t collide with the hammock cranes. The process you show to do this is to add 3 pieces of 1x1mm evergreen to the front edge and then cover the top and bottom with a thin evergreen sheet. I have a couple questions if you have an opportunity to respond. Would it it be easier to just add the evergreen pieces to the back side of the channel where it will be attached to the hull so I would not need tomake new holes for the irons? Or did you try this and found it not to be satisfactory? It looks in the plate 3 pictures that you added evergreen to all the channels, not just the fore channels. Is this correct? If so, how much wider did you make the main and mizzen channels, or did you make all 6 channels the same width? Last question. You show adding a sheet of thin evergreen to the top and bottom of each channel. What thickness of evergreen sheet did you use for this. It appears to be pretty thin.
-
Wow Kevin she does seem a little less impressive with main mask removed. I still prefer the yellow ochre color and went with that on mine. I am going to be very interested in watching your build with your 3D parts and Daniel’s etched pieces it will be incredible! i recently started using my iPad instead of my iPhone to read and post. I have noticed there is more profile information shown on the iPad I had not seen on my phone. I noticed that you have the Revell Cutty Sark in your stash. I built it a while back and you can find my log on here when you get to it. Very enjoyable and lends itself well to bashing. A few post back you asked what was bringing me to Scotland and I failed to answer. We cancelled now because of Covid but we were going to St Andrews to watch the Dunhill Pro Am golf tournament.
-
Glad you got to see her even minus major rigging. A little jealous maybe. 😊
-
Thanks Bosco. Thanks Kevin. It looks like I am close on the hatches. Maybe could have been a little higher. My doors are definitely not high enough. Did not know there were stairs on the inside. Thought it was just a step over door sill. Oh well only you guys will know there are off a little. I will anxiously wait to see more of your photos and hear about your tour. Got Daniel’s binnacle constructed and installed on the Quarter deck along with the ship’s wheel and Daniel’s stanchion faceing.
-
After the fact I think the doors and hatch look a little too thick but I am going to live with it!
-
I had not thought of that! Thanks my friend. I will use that route in the future for reference.
-
In fact Ian I started into Daniel’s build looking for anything he may have done to his. Like a number of build logs, his is pretty long. After rapid scrolling through a number of pages looking for pics of his bulkhead I gave up. I have no idea how such a thing could be manufactured, or how big it would be, but I have often thought a printed version of these build logs with a topic index would be a crazy valuable reference source.
Our Emblem ®
