Bill97
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Everything posted by Bill97
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Thanks Ian. The door sills are a little raised already but can tell Daniel cut the doors out a little shorter by the hinge position. May tinker with them a little as well as the ports.
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Working a little today on the bulkhead. Decided to open the two doors as I have seen on others build logs. Decided to add some Evergreen to the back of the doors and inside edges of the door framed to give depth like the cannon hatches.
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“You’d best give very plain descriptions, I wouldn’tknow a jeer from a shear at this point.”😀 Keven this is so true for me as well. After getting the above post from our dear friend Ian I had to pull out my Longridge book and Google for definitions! Jeers, upper jeer blocks, timber hitched, main yard, garnets, clew line, and dangling clusters! I think I had to take medication one time for dangling clusters! 🤔 But I have to admit I am learning a lot of nautical stuff I never knew before. Big thank you Ian. Kevin I can’t think of any specific thing I wish for you to get pictures of. Just looking forward to seeing what ever pictures you take. Would love to fly over and join you in your tour. Ironically I was booked to fly to London Monday enroute to Scotland where my wife and I were going to spend a week at St Andrew’s. Unfortunately Covid concerns put a stop to that adventure 😟
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Ian I of course refer to your build as well as Daniel’s and Kevin’s and Foxy’s plus several others. Looking at your’s tonight I saw the picture of how you brought the lines up through the grate. I see that you cut out a small section. Once Kevin gets a chance to check out the real thing, maybe Monday, I may make a few modifications to my grate. I also noticed the eyebolts at the base. Is this the truss pendants you are talking about?
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Thanks Kevin.
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Thanks Ian. Onward I go! Truss pendants? Hummm, sounds interesting.
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Exactly what I did Ian. I drilled the holes in part(s) 89. Ran extra long threads through the holes as you instructed above and up through the grate. I have now installed (glued in) my Quarter Deck and dry fitted the mast to make sure the holes line up. On my other builds there has been a slight angle to the aft for the mast instead of perfectly vertical. The Victory appears to be the same. Hope that is correct! 🤞🙏 Also the bulkhead goes over the top of the deck at the bow. Is that correct? Bulkhead dry fitted and not yet painted. You may also notice I finished rigging the cannons on the Upper deck. Instead of trying to make perfect coils for the end of the ropes I simply coiled them up as if on a belaying pin.
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Looking at Plate 46 helps a lot. Longridge’s book is so valuable in this build! I am guessing I just estimate the length needed for these lines.
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Thanks agin my friend. This is my goal for today and the weekend. Then finally get the Quarter deck in place.
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Ok great Ian. Thanks. Now I understand. So I simply tie threads to part 89 that will be long enough to accomplish the future rigging and for now coil them up like I did the sheet lines earlier. Bring them up through the opening in the Quarter Deck and just tape them out of the way. 👍 should there be belaying pins on part 89 for these “ropes” or do you just tie them to the cross member?
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Beautiful work Kevin.
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Ok Ian I am making one more trip around this “part 89” step. I am very close to putting the Quarter deck in. Almost everything done on Upper deck. Back earlier in comment #410 you suggested tying future rigging lines to part 89 before putting the Quarter deck in and referred me to Longridge’s book. I have looked over the Heller instructions and the page(s) of Longridge’s book but can not determine what exactly I need to do. Your “detailed” advice would be greatly appreciated. If you don’t mind 😊. Thanks in advance.
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Kevin I am going to be honest and say I just realized that now that you pointed it out 🤯. Well that is where they are going to stay on this deck. Again changes for cannons on Quarter deck.
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Thanks guys. Yeah Ian I know that line is also to be there, and there is the heavier rope that connects to eyebolts in the hull and goes through a ring on the end of the barrel. I may do those two lines on the “show guns” on the Quarter deck. Kevin I will be following your build to see how you deal with rigging the cannons later on.
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Ok gentlemen this comes under the categories “it is what it is” and “time to move on”. I used the smaller thread and rigged the cannons. I am still going to make some small coils to place where the end of the thread touches the deck. Kevin what I found after a couple weeks wrestling with this one application is that, as you have found, you can’t get the blocks much smaller than about 2mm and have them useable. At that size if you have the cannons run out any at all the two blocks get real close together and you do not see the thread that much. I even eliminated the hooks that Longridge shows to use to connect the blocks to the hull and carriages trying to use up space so blocks would have distance between them. After everything they are still closer than I wish, but oh well. Moving on to other battles.
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Thanks Ian and Kevin. Kevin I think I am going to stick with these blocks I made from the ones in the kit. I already have them attached to the cannns and the ship. I do believe I have some smaller thread which I will try.
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Ok here is my finished product on the cannon tackle. I reduced the 3mm blocks included with the kit down to a tiny bit smaller than 2mm, made my own small metal eyebolts for the sides of the carriages and the inside sides of the hatches, attached the tiny blocks to the eyebolts, then used .35mm thread to rig. Set the cannon back enough to give space between the blocks but still extended enough out the hatch to give a nice appearance. Made rope coils for display of the ends of the rigging thread. This is on the Upper deck so I am just doing this with the 7 “show cannons” you can see through the large opening in the Quarter deck. One done. Thirteen to go on this deck!
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These are the 3mm blocks that came with the kit filed down to the sheaf at one end and rounded a little. They average right at 2mm. Some are just a hair bigger, some a hair smaller depending on my filing. I repainted them and strung them on a wire to attach the threads too that will tie to the eyebolts. The hole for the thread during rigging remains the same since I did not do anything to change that.
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I believe I have a plan that will work. I took the 3mm blocks I originally used to rig the cannon tackle and cut them down to 2mm. Basically I file one end down to the shelve and rounded the edges. That way the single and double both worked. The first one pictured is the test. Clean them all up and do a little touch up paint and I think they will work. Still a slight bigger than scale would call for but better. What do you think?
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I have some 2mm Evergreen sticks. I am going to experiment with making a block with it. Will report later. Of course it will just be a single, not double.
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Yeah guys I am going to have to give this some extra thought. May be why Heller did not include tiny blocks to rig the cannons. Ian I have your spread sheet but did not check it because I was incorrectly thinking Longridge’s book was for 1/100 scale. Since I plan to use wooden blocks for rigging the ship I had all these Heller 3mm blocks that came with the kit I thought I would just paint to match my wooden ones and use them on the cannons which Heller did not intend to be rigged. Once I did several I realized “this does not look right!” I only did 6 “show guns”on each side that you can see through the opening in the Quarter deck. I was considering displaying the 3 boats deployed off the Victory so as to not obstruct the view down into the Upper deck if the rigging of the cannons was impressive enough! Like you said Kevin, I don’t know if I could thread a 2mm block 🤔😳.
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Kevin I think I got the rope coil solved. I ended up with a scale issue with blocks however. Longridge’s book said a scale block for the cannon rigging would be 3/16”. I decided to go with 3mm blocks. I made a bunch of eyebolts, drilled tiny holes in the trucks and put the eyebolts in. I added a small piece of evergreen on each side of the cannon hatch and added eyebolts in each. I added the evergreen to give just a bit more thickness so the stem of the eyebolt would not sneak to the outside of the hull. I then made my coil on the end of a each rope with the plan to rig in reverse. Once I had all my eyebolts in, cannon glued in position, and coil made at the end of a thread I glued the coil in position to the deck. I then rigged backwards through the blocks ending at the cannon and clipping off the excess thread. I think the 3mm blocks are actually bigger than I wish they were but I am going to live with it. They are to close together even though I did not run the cannon all the way out.
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Thank you my friend. Will look over it again.
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Ian I need a little extra advice. Back in post #410 you said: “Remember BEFORE you glue in the quarterdeck that there are not only the lower sheets and tacks to attach to parts 41 & 100 we talked about already, but also lines to tie to part 89 (mainyard jeers, main topsail sheets, mainsail clew garnets; see note near top of pg 267 in Longridge).” I am not following “lines to part 89.” I looked at the instructions and Longridge’s book and am not understanding what you advise I do at this point before I put on the Quarter deck.
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