AnobiumPunctatum
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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum
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Looks really nice. For lot's of modelers I think the milled parts are a goed starting point. I don't think that it is necessary to prebuild parts of the model
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I am a fan of the "Wappen von Hamburg", since I was a child. I read the book of Wolfgang Quinger in the 70th of the last century. I think the kit is a good representation of the ship, based on the older Höckel drawings.
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I am further busy with sanding the hull. The starbordside is finished. At the port side some further sanding at the stern is necessary. It's a lttle bit difficult to get this really smooth with stem glueded in place.
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Really nice progress
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Glenn, thanks for the really nice descriptions. This is very helpful for me.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Hoi Jan, hartelijk welkomen in onze groep en veel plezier bij het bouw van deze mooie model. (welkom in our group and a lot fun building this fine model)
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Thanks for the hint, Glenn. So position for frame 13 is fine.
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Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem. Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this. So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.
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The planking is looking great. Do not to much work on one side. An old modeller told me that it is better to work symmetrical on both side to avoid torsion of the hull.
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Welcome on the shipyards. It will be nice if you can share some bigger photos.
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Wow, the cannons are looking great. I like the natural carriage. It will be a nice contrast to the hull color.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Really nice progress. The color of the ivory looks fantastic.
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In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods. Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.
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What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine. This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.
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Die Kogge Von Bremen by kentyler
AnobiumPunctatum replied to kentyler's topic in - Subjects built Up to and including 1500 AD
The planks at the bottom of the hull are krawel planked. So I think it is a good idea, to add some real frames to your shell. -
Die Kogge Von Bremen by kentyler
AnobiumPunctatum replied to kentyler's topic in - Subjects built Up to and including 1500 AD
With the plans from Werner Lahm, you have the best source you can find for the Bremer cog. I Will follow your build with great interest. The plans are also the basis for the replica's in Germany. I've published a pert of the foto's I did from the original ship at Modellmarine.de. -
Tom, For the fore and main mast you have to cut out the frames. Especially for the for mast is nothing more than necessary. For the main mast I will add an extra piece of wood. For the mizzenmast it's not necessary. It get the correct poistion form the main- and quarterdeck.
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Mike, that's the same technic I use. The black color is mostly the laser char. I only egalize the small edges where two parts fits together and a third part has to be glued. With this stick it is really easy to sand the outer edge, which is not visible in the foto.
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Hi Kris, I am a member of the AK. I think I can help you. Do you search the article of Otto Groning?
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I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1). The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel. Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together. For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
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If you build a third version with your own cut bulheads I wouldn't recommend a second planking. For this you have to divide the thicknes of your planks. The thicker planks are looking much better than veneer. I recommend filling the area between the bukheads with basswood, similar to the narrow strips for the piece ports. After sanding you can fill all smaller mistakes to get a nice hull shape.
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Your model is looking really beautyful.
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Scuppers in German means "Speigatten"
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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