AnobiumPunctatum
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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum
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Really nice model.
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In 1/48 I don't know an manufacturer of mediaeval figures. In 1/72 you can find lot of figures by Valdemar Miniatures. I planned to use them by a small cog diorama.
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I will follow your log with great interest. I have in my collection also the old kit from BB. The scale of the model should ba 1/25 and not 1/20.
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I didn't Preorder the book for that reason. Last week I got my copy from Amazon without any problems and I don't need to think about tax I have to pay if I order the book in the UK. It's a wonderful book and makes a lot of pleasure to read.
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You're right. For the Bremer cog you can use one of the replica's for teh mast design. In my opinion the Kieler cog is the best. Do you know, that there is a wonderful book over the excavation with beautyful drawings of the IJssel cog? "De opgraving en lichting van de 15e- eeuwse IJsselkogge" onder redactie van W.B.Waldus.
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I know the work which is in the reconstruction and drawing. Last month I did the frame design of my Triton a second time to become more satisfied with the results.
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Kris, it is a qustion of the result you like to have, the scale and your skills. There is in my opinion nobody than you who can answer these questions. I know from my own experience hoe dfficult and sometimes really frustrating it is to find this out. If you like to buy some tools buy only good quality tools and check if the mones is an good investement. Take an small project like the MSW capstan project to practice. If you than think, that you need more experience take another small project. If you think it's enough start with your dream model. But be sure that you make in the beginning every part two of three times until the result satisfies you.
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It looks really nice Tony, but I think that the extra toptimbers are not necessary. The boat was klinerbuild. So it is really stabil.
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Are you shure, that this is your first scracth build? It looks really nice. I love th big scale of your model, which gives you the possibility to show small details.
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This will be a really wonderful model of an old ship. Do you have Langley also as model in her 30er years appearance?
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I will start with th MSW capstan project and the Echo cross-section model. Than I will go back to my Triton project,
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I know, but one step after the other. Before I start with Rhino, I will prcatice with my new toy. For the first steps I use my old 2D CAD.
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I've done the step in the other direction. I own since a fey days a cnc-mill and now I am saving my money for Rhino. Is it possible that the three views are not really perpendicular to each other? I know the same form my 2D works. The point on the drawings are the same but not the 2D representation of the lines. There are always small differences. It's a problem with using splines.
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Really nice result in this small scale. The hull is looking great. I would use only color to simulate the nails. You can use a nail of pin for painting. With a little bit of practice you can get a nice result.
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Kris I can only help by converting in 2D because my 3D skills are minimal. If You work in 2D you can draw this in a similiar manner I use for cant frames. With help of the side view you get the correct legth of every frame. Drawing vertical lines on top view gives you the correct section and stepping line. Mark your buttock lines in the side view. Than draw all lines from all necessary points to an body-master. Orientate a copy of your "body master" that it is perpendicular to the frame in the side view. Now you can draw the lines from the side view to the body-master. Copy all lines in another body-master and rotate them, that everything is perpendicular. Connect all section points and you get the outline shape of the frame (if it inclusive plank thinkness of exclusive depends of your view are showing the outside of the hull or drawn on the frames (as by plans of the NMM). I hope you understand whant I mean. It is more tricky to describe than to draw.
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Really nice progress, Jorge. But you made a little mistakes by the gun ports. They are not perpendicular. The bottom lid and the top lid are parallel to the gun deck. So you have always a rhomboid. Why do you choose 1/35 and not 1/36 or 1/32? I know the scale from military model building but not from ship modelbuilding
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Thanks for the info. That's exactly, what I searched. I think I have to practice a little bit more with the search function of the forum
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I'll get a new tool. To practice I am seraching some the historic (American war of revolutions or later) dimensions of water barrels, barrels for gun pouder, meet and so on. What other other storage for ships are existing. Can smeone help me ? I Like to build some of theses barrels. and other equipement.
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I think I can give you some information about this drawing,. This is a reconstruction drawing of Skuldelev I from 1971. It was as far as I know the base for the presentation of the ship in the musuem. I own a copy of this but there are in the meantime some newer reconstructions which are giving a slightly different hull. But you can build a very nice model with this information. I am searching a reconstruction of the Haithabu knarr and longship. I hoppe to find someday one good drawing. of the find
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