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AnobiumPunctatum

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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum

  1. If you like to build WInchelsea, I would not add a boat, because the seal doesn't show it. Also the Bremer cog shows remoevable planking. I think it was a common way to go into the hull.
  2. Hi Chuck, yes it has. The drawings are in scale 1/50. You're welcome to learn a little bit German. A few years ago I had to learn Netherlands for my job. Now I am really happy, that I can read Netherlands books about historic ships. There is a really nice book about the Ijssel Kogge form the 15 th century.
  3. Hi Steven, the model, you show the picture, is not build following the drawings from Zimmermann. The sources for this model are from Jochen v. Fricks "Normannenschiffe", Delius Klasing Verlag. The original book was first published in the GDR but I don't have information when. Here is a link to the website, where the model was published and where I found the Information about the source. If I remember right, Zimmermann shows an other castle. In the weekend I will have a look if I can scan you two fotos from the model Zimmermann has built. I am really interested to yee your progress.
  4. Sorry to say, but this is definitly wrong. Suldelev I and III were found in the beginning of the sixtieth and the drawings of these ships were available. Also if you can not read the book, the drawings are very well researched.
  5. Hi, there is a really nice book and planset about this kind of ships: Werner Zimmermann "Nef de Cinque Ports". Another good information is the drawing in Landström.
  6. All parallel frames and fore cant frames are finished. In the moment I am busy to draw the after cant frames. Then the hawse pieces and transoms will follow. I hope that I continue with model building next year. But all planning is dependent from my job.
  7. You only need to scan the body plan. Measure the length between the first and last station line in the sheer plan. Then measure the distance between the station lines to check and correct the first measurment. With this information you can draw the station lines in your cad-system. The offset between the station lines is the same. If you have scanned the body plan you can add it to your sheer plan and then the funny part can start. These are the steps I started my Triton drawing
  8. You can use horizontal lines or a combination with horizontal and buttock lines. If these lines are not in the plan set, you can create these with the body plan.
  9. Congrats for finishing this beautyful model. It's looking really wonderful.
  10. Looks really nice. For lot's of modelers I think the milled parts are a goed starting point. I don't think that it is necessary to prebuild parts of the model
  11. I am a fan of the "Wappen von Hamburg", since I was a child. I read the book of Wolfgang Quinger in the 70th of the last century. I think the kit is a good representation of the ship, based on the older Höckel drawings.
  12. I am further busy with sanding the hull. The starbordside is finished. At the port side some further sanding at the stern is necessary. It's a lttle bit difficult to get this really smooth with stem glueded in place.
  13. Glenn, thanks for the really nice descriptions. This is very helpful for me.
  14. Hoi Jan, hartelijk welkomen in onze groep en veel plezier bij het bouw van deze mooie model. (welkom in our group and a lot fun building this fine model)
  15. Today I found time to sand the first half of the hull. After removing the adhesive tape at the keel I have to sand a little bit at the stem. Those who can read have a clear advantage. 😉 If you see, I didn't follow Chucks advise, I simply overread this. So I copied the marks on the other side of the frames.
  16. The planking is looking great. Do not to much work on one side. An old modeller told me that it is better to work symmetrical on both side to avoid torsion of the hull.
  17. Welcome on the shipyards. It will be nice if you can share some bigger photos.
  18. Wow, the cannons are looking great. I like the natural carriage. It will be a nice contrast to the hull color.
  19. In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods. Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.
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