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AnobiumPunctatum
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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum
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I am not sure, but the first deck you need is the lower deck (orlop). More important is the gundeck which is midships fully visible. For the keel you can use the keel drawing. There are some detail drawings which should help to cut out the parts. Have a look to the different build logs in the forum. I think they are really helpful, to find your way in the project.
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If you print the parts of the model check on your program that the scale of the printout is 100% and not fitted to sid or something similiar. You can check the scale of each print out with the ruler shown on every PDF. It is given the length of 10 feet in the scale 1/48. In metric scale it's exact 63.5mm. Don't worry about your thoughts. It's the beginning of a really long journey. For me the MSW project was also the start in scratch building. If you have not much experience I can recommend the cross section as a really good entry point. It hase the same scale as the full hull build but is much less complicated.
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If you like to use thinner bulkheads you have to rework the cutout in the centerboard. Forwards from middle bulkhead (0) you have to change the fore edge of the cutout and backwards the after edge. Then everything should work again. What is the thickness of the centerboard?
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Now I understand your problem. The double frames are only for a POF build. You need the files in folder "POB drawings". The frames are not visible and much more simplificated.
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1/48 is a real nice scale. If you have the space at home for the finished model I would go with this scale.The original drawings in the RMG are in this scale. I am a bit surprised. As far as I know the PDF's of the drawings are in 1/48 prepared. You should also have access to the POF drawings. They are a really good add on for a POB build and in 1/48. If you need to scale a PDF you can simply change the scale by printing. The cross section was many years ago my first wooden try.
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3/8'' = 9,5mm I think this is really thick for the bulkheads and the centerboards. 1/4'' = 6,35mm is looking ok for a model in 1/48 or 1/64. If you choose a smaller scale you can make the bulkheads thinner. In which scale do yoou plan to build her? I wisch you a lot of fun on your journey.
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The reconstruction is from Werner Bruns. He is a member of the "Arbeistkreis historischer Schiffsbau e.V." But I did not know if has published his work.
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Thanks for sharing the inforamtion. If I have a look at the price, I am really shocked. The Vanguard Alert in the bigger scale is a lot cheaper than the small 1/72 kit. I could not find an information which kind of timber shipyard use for the kit. I hope it is a better wood than in their cog kits.
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You show a really clean execution of your build. I simply love it.
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It's looking great and a really nice description of how to make the beech rope.
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Really a beauty. You build a fantastic model of her.
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Really nice progress, Henry. It's allways a pleasure to follow your updates.
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Fantastic.
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Hartelijk bedankt voor de mooie presentatie van je model. Thank you very much for the beautiful presentation of your model.
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If I look to your frame I am afraid that you do not have enough meet, if you grind the whole structure. If I cut the pieces out, I look that I see always a little white paper on the outside of a frame. With this you have always enough room to equal small but normal tolerancies
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I don’t think so. There is also a lot of support for you there. The description of how you make and prepare your gratings shows again what I mean in my last post. I can prepare the gratings with my small CNC-mill and build the jig following your really good description. Thanks very much.
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It woul be a lot of fun to make a build log of your kit there. I love your ideas and how open you share your knowledge. Without this I was not able to finish the frame design for my Alert. I also learned a lot to continue with my Sloop Fly. Thanks for that.
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Have a look at the wood grain for the chocks. In your pictures it has the wrong direction. You should turn the template by 90 degrees.
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I own a small CNC. What has changed is the precision for cutting out parts. So you begin to think about problems, which you not have, if you cut out parts manually. The model is further build by the model builder. The quality depends further on the knowledge and experience of the builder. I prepare my parts directly from my own reconstruction with the CNC. By all the precision It is not possible for me to build my model in the quality you are showing here. I simply love it. I do not like competitions for my hobby and will never participate in one.
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Micha, Düsseldorf is close where I live. I thought that also the Skuldelev kit was in 1/25 and has the same skale as the Oseberg kit. The 5 Skuldelev ships as models were a long time a dream. But now I am more interested in English Ship Sloops of the late 18th century.
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The Skuldelev ship shows the same ship as the Roar Ege. Skuldelev 3 is the original wreck, which they found and preserved. Roar Ege is a replica which they have build in the 80th of the last century (if I remember right) This kit was my first wooden kit ever as I was a child. You have to cut each plank with a saw. Now the same kit is lying in my stash and waiting. Perhaps one day I find the time to build the model again.
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- Roar Ege
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Thanks for the information. I fully understand your motivation not to make the knees
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It is looking really nice. One question: I miss the different knees, especially where the guns are situated. David has shown them in his drawings. Why do you have omitted them?
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I don't think so. In my opinion is the purpose of the drawing to show the differences between the standard frameing sheme (doulble frame followed by two single frames) and the sheme which was used for Kingfisher in the midship area. Interesting is also the triple frame midships.
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- hahn
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