Jump to content

Toolmaker

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    213

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Toolmaker

  1. Toolmaker
    Thats as inspirational as it gets when it comes to planking.
  2. Toolmaker
    Fly-tying line should cover what you require. I have been using it with diameters down to 0.05mm. I am in the UK so my sources are not relevant, but you will find plenty of US suppliers.
  3. Toolmaker
    The advancements in wooden kit development are just fantastic. 1900 +, pre cut parts, over 6 kilo’s of wood, months of entertainment and all for around £200 sterling plus import. It’s a great review and the fact that Chris is prepared to stock it, further adds weighty kudos.
  4. Toolmaker
    Good advice all around there. You would be asking the saw to do something it isn’t designed to do and if something went wrong you would be annoyed with yourself. It might also likely be dangerous to try. Hacksaw, milling machine, metal bandsaw are all good options.
  5. Toolmaker
    Hi George, I have recently done what you are asking about. I served various size ropes from 1.1mm down to 0.45mm. I served the 0.45mm using 0.05mm diameter fly tying thread. This thread is 1/9 the diameter of the served line and I thought that was acceptable. With a little practice It was reasonably easy using the Syren serving machine. For me the issue was seeing clearly what I was doing. For the fine threads I used a magnifier to watch the thread. This picture shows some practice, but the serving thread was a bit too fine, however it shows the idea. I am a beginner compared to many so open to criticism if I am doing wrong. I hope something here is useful. Thanks Paul
  6. Toolmaker
    Only this week have I finished rigging my HMS Cheerful so I am still running warm. I see lots of good advice above, especially about not buying tools before you have a specific need. You will certainly need 1 and likely 2 pairs of longish narrow tweezers and something to cut the line. I did most of my work with good quality small sewing scissors. My choice of make was fiskars. I also used a scalpel when rigging blocks off model. I used a helping hands system extensively and would find life more difficult without it. Used for stropping blocks etc. For serving I used the Syren version with some modifications, but I didn’t bother with serving on my first two builds. I use the same modelling clamps for adding tension to hanging ropes as I use during the build. The only thing I haven’t seen listed above which I like to have on hand are collapsible eye needles. They make threading through blocks a real breeze. The link is a uk one but I am sure you will find them anywhere in the world. https://www.thecuriousgem.co.uk/needles/beadalon-collapsible-eye-needles-assorted-sizes.html?srsltid=AfmBOoouysXEk_rNhhoVnaP66KHRpxEinAGwkJmAlkwoT-bk1JPEYrgt Enjoy the hull build first, then you can concentrate on the needs of the rigging. Good luck Paul
  7. Toolmaker
    Congratulations on your superb effort. Thanks seems so inadequate in consideration of all the pictures and instructions you have posted here. I am about to finish Cheerful having followed your build log alongside the instructions, as it is your level of skill, and more importantly, your patience, that is my aspiration. In the New Year I will begin my Winchelsea adventure and once again, I shall be using your build log as my guide alongside Chuck’s instructions. Cheers Paul
  8. Toolmaker
    Companies such as Dormer do drill sets down to 0.3mm which is a little smaller than number 80. These sets are readily available from various companies. Individual hss twist drills are easily sourced down to 0.2mm (-.008 inch). After that it’s getting specialised and prices start to take off. I’m in the uk so my links are only relevant to there. No doubt similar is available in the US.
  9. Toolmaker
    Yes Todd, I agree. I can use them in my Sherline for the same reasons. Just not suitable for hand work.
  10. Toolmaker
    In my opinion these are not generally suitable for our hobby. The reasoning is; They are pcb drills. That’s “printed circuit board” drills. They are designed to be run at many thousands of rpm, usually in air spindles doing 20-40k plus revs. They are also designed to be held rigidly and securely in controlled feed environments. They have a high helix angle (the flute spiral) and if you can’t control the feed rate they will screw themselves into wood rather than cut through it. They are indeed cheap as they are hugely mass produced for the pcb market. Selling them to hobbyists is just up-selling. Take all the above reasoning and then add in that they are made from very unforgiving tungsten carbide which will accommodate almost zero flexing and after the first or second time you break one in an already fixed in deck fitting you will realise you should not have bothered. Stay with hss, high speed steel. You won’t be sorry. A decent pin vice and a set of high speed steel drill will give you great service. cheers Paul
  11. Toolmaker
    Thanks for the suggestion Bob, BE's log is very impressive. I get the impression that he is happy to use something around 20% diameter of the main line which seems like a reasonable rule of thumb. I have a feeling I was off to a bad start with my post, likely mixing up the terms seizing and serving. Cheers Paul
  12. Toolmaker
    Resurrecting this 8 year old thread as it was the only one that came up in my search for some clear guidance. I am in the process of doing some seizing on my HMS Cheerful. This 2016 topic led me to try using 6/0 thread size which measures 0.05mm or 2 thou (0.002 inches). If I scaled this up it would represent just 2.4mm or .096 inch which is seems likely too thin. Should I be using something at least double that thickness? In scale the shroud is around 2 inch diameter and something like a quarter inch sounds more likely. Interestingly it’s the first time I have had to use magnification to help with a task since I moved over to wooden building from plastic 3 or 4 years ago. In this instance I think it’s the size of the thread rather than my eyes deteriorating further. I would appreciate any input on this. Thank you Paul
  13. Toolmaker
    A first class base is nothing more than this fabulous build deserves. You have certainly done this kit justice. Thank you for sharing your efforts. Paul
  14. Toolmaker
    It might be worthwhile getting a larger piece of brass and machine the part you require. Saw and files or power tools if you have them. I think this method would be more easily controlled and offer you a better chance of success. Brass is quite soft and files to shape quickly.
  15. Toolmaker
    Can I ask if any of sets 1&2 have been sent across the Atlantic, and if so can you indicate the cost of the carriage? Thank you.
  16. Toolmaker
    For me, that would be a non starter as it lacks the control necessary for much of the work we do on model ships. To use it one handed relies on pressure to create a screwing effect. If you use it 2 handed the workpiece needs to be fixed. Unless I have the piece fixed in a mill/drill machine then I always use one of these; Designed for one handed use, pressure easily controlled on start and break through. The blue one is my favourite as it has a mini chuck and the bearing system works well.
  17. Toolmaker
    Citadel paint is designed for hand painting and it really is very good to use. On the other hand Tamiya acrylic (although it’s solvent based) is designed for use in an airbrush and can be difficult to hand brush. Add some retarder for better results.
  18. Toolmaker
    Any decent HSS, high speed steel, bit should hold up, hand drill or otherwise. Avoid carbide drills unless in a powered milling machine type environment. They are too brittle and prone to break easily when used in/for the purses e you describe.
  19. Toolmaker
    Apologies if this is drifting from your build but I feel it’s worth noting for people looking to build to scale. I just checked five different 25lb monofilament fishing lines and they were all different. The range was from 0.37mm to 0.52mm. Now 0.15mm which is .006 inch does not seem much, but the variation is actually more than 40%. Hence me suggesting it is better to know the required diameter rather than the breaking strain. Very nice start by the way.
  20. Toolmaker
    The mark for the “planking band” takes care of this. Prior to marking any bulkheads you have divided the hull into x amount of planking bands with, usually, narrow tape. This is marked as the bottom of the planking band. You would now determine how many strakes from your existing planks to the bottom of the band and mark your bulkheads accordingly. I understand you are up to date to this point. As for marking the filler block, you are still looking to mark the same number of strakes to the bottom of the band. Divide the distance from existing planking yo the bottom of the band by the number of strakes and mark up. if you wanted to mark all along the filler block you can lay your paper from the mark on bulkhead 1 to the mark on the rabbet and pencil along the paper top but I don’t find that necessary. if I have missed the point of your question then I apologise for misunderstanding it. Regards Paul
  21. Toolmaker
    Outstanding high standards Glenn. Every picture an inspiration. I have high ideals, which of course is not the same as high standards, but I would be beyond joyous if able to match those standards you are displaying. I am learning my trade on Cheerful but 2025 will be Winchelsea year and along with Chuck’s monographs I shall be having your build log with me as escort. Thank you Paul
  22. Toolmaker
    I think using the breaking strain of the line as a size measurement can be misleading. It would be better to look for a correct diameter rather than the breaking strain. That way you would also know what size drill to use. Alternatively, measure the line with a vernier and buy the drill to suit.
  23. Toolmaker
    Hey Nic, Don’t be taken in by that fella above called No Idea, he does have an idea. I would concur with him and go for a Vanguard models kit. In a large part because they are in the UK and if you have any issues they are not far away. My current builds are from USA sourced suppliers but I got a couple of Vanguard kits under my belt first. I would suggest this kit to test your mettle; https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/fifie-lady-eleanor/ The hull shape gives you the best chance of success at this early stage and you can probably buy the kit and all the tools and paints required for under £200 quid. If you go for it and need advice along the way, just shout out. it was my first dabble at wooden boats and I have lots of photo’s etc Good luck bud Paul
  24. Toolmaker
    I feel like I’m about to be given a most obvious answer, but as I don’t know, I have to ask. From a ship design point of view, what was the thinking behind the cupola? Why bother?
  25. Toolmaker
    It’s the angle that the photograph is taken that is misleading you. It’s the same detail in both pictures.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...