Gabek

Fourth trip to the cottage
 
Wanting to be close to home for the birth of our grandson and the subsequent visit from my sister and mother have happily kept us away from the cottage.   By the way, here's our little admiral, Duncan:  
(and because of the modeller in me I have already researched and located plans of the Royal Navy Admiral Adam Duncan's flagship at Camperdown, HMS Venerable, and purchased the Trumpeter model of the modern day HMS Duncan…)

On to the HMCS Agassiz/Wetaskawin…
 
We only stayed at the cottage long enough to mow the grass (and much taller month-old poplar trees) and a few chores so in the lulls I managed to attach the bulwark stays(?).  This is when I the laser cut kit that I purchased paid for itself…again! I almost think it is a necessity to get the kit if you want to build this model.  These tiny parts were painful enough to install without having to worry about cutting them out accurately, etc.  The thicker card stock of the laser kit made these pieces nicely stiff and resistant to the somewhat ham-fisted manoeuvrings I put them through. Their thickness also helped in squaring them to the bulwarks. 


Outboard of the transom were two flanges similar to the bulwark stays that likely support the depth charge chutes.  In real life these are likely thinner than the bulwark supports so they weren't included in the laser cut kit…but I thought it would be advantageous to make them thicker.  So, I sliced off a couple of these from the edges of the laser cut card.

(OMG! Getting in close sure shows off my crummy workmanship!)
 
I had time to glue in the stem…

And that's how she sits until our next visit…

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 
 
 

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Good luck on this project! I built the 1/100 scale Agassiz from Modelik many years ago. I also have the HMV kit of USS England on pause; it's another product of Agassiz's designer, Darius Lipinski. He has a few 3D-printed parts available for Agassiz at his Shapeways store.      
 
    https://www.shapeways.com/product/AWDN9DUAN/agassiz-js-0005-upgrade-for-paper-model?optionId=62825248&li=marketplace                            

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Hello modellers,
My friend and fellow Manitoban, @Knocklouder , asked if I could print up some 6-pounder cannons for his HMS Pegasis (Amati, 1:64).  I based the following design of the 6-pounderm found in Anatomy of the Ship: The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora.  I did not include a gunlock in this design - just a simple touch hole.  The emblem on the cannon is George III but I think it could pass for the very similar George II - particularly at smaller scales. 
 
This file was created in 1:64, but can be scaled up or down as needed.  Attached are the .STL and the .cbddlp files for anyone who wants to print it off themselves.  The .cbddlp is pre-supported.  I used Anycubic ABS+ on an Elegoo Mars printer and had very good results - I can supply the print parameters on request.
 

 
Hope this helps,
Gabe
6-pounder cannon.cbddlp 6-pounder cannon.stl

Thank you everyone  for following  along. Today the First Mate  and I paid a visit to fellow member @Gabek,  It was a wonderful  visit.  Mrs Gabek made us some delicious bannock, it was fantastic.  Also Gabe and I did a little bartering,  for a bit of corn, 4 dozen, a bag full of cucumbers,  and a small box of Tomatoes,  he made me these correct  scale cannons, 20 of them and a stove that fits right into  place on the Pegasus.  Thank you !!!
 
  Time to finish the second layer of planks.  Then the copper.  I am doing a good job on the planks, go figure when all is said and done only 1/2 of and inch of planks show  on the ship.  After it is coppered then painted only a few planks show, lol. But at least it is  planked to the best of my ability as of to date lol.
 After I got home , I ran down to the shipyard, and took all of 5 minutes to clean and paint them all. Lol 




 So I put everything away for now,  going to do the  second layer of planking,  followed by  the copper, then finish a little more painting. Then start rigging the cannnos, lots of work there lol. Well that's it for now, I still can't  belive how much you have to change in the kit to make it look better.  You buy a kit at a good price then pay a good price to upgrade, oh well that's business I guess. Lol. 
On to the planking and coppering  
Bob M. 

Change of course. I finished the cannon carriages and I am awaiting the new scale correct cannons. So I made a jig up and glued the carriages  together, this is my jig, it worked for me lol.
Here is how I paint the wheels all at once, lined them up  on a wire rod and sprayed a couple of coats of flat black. I was going to airbrush the carriages  but decidd it was going to be faster just to hand paint them.
 
 

Today I was going to do the gun strips, but changed course and decided to follow the instructions , lol. So it's on to page two lol.    My first capstan and main pump cistern and two bits. That's the fun stuff,  things I never tried before .
   Ok that's it for today, happy modeling 
 
Bob M.                 
 

 

No matter what the reason, great to see you back mate.  I hope the recovery goes well.  The revised stand looks good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Well finally got to work on my ship. Seems I had to brake my foot , by dropping  a 95 pound  steel car ramp on it . Lol. I could use the break lol.  I was working outside for at least 6 hrs a day after, recovering  from what ever I had that hit me lol.
 The first Mate is calling bs, lol but I have the swelling  on my side , iceing  it down,  daily.  For sure.
But on with the ship , making the stand  the same way I did for the Pinta  and Santa Maria. 

Bought these at Lea Valley's,  drilled holes for the screws To go thought then I just placed it on the pegs to see what it will look like after I finish  it.

 I also finished the fenders on both sides  I think they turn out well. 
    So now that I got some time progress from here on in for at least 4 to 6 weeks should move forward  lol.   
  Be talking to you all soon.

Feeling a whole lot better today, an excited to get to spend another day in the shipyard lol.
  A  big thank you to @Gabek , we found out that we live pretty  close, so we decided to get together.  Lol. After many failed attempts to connect  we finally meet and he brought over two mini vikings to row on my ship, they are amazing.
We talk all afternoon about ships , lanterns, piracy,
And most of all our love for building ships.
 The First Mate  said we were like a couple of kids playing with their toys. It was a great afternoon,  one I hope repeats itself often.
So after Gabek left I went to the ship yard and  after playing with the vikings  awhile I got back to building. I sanded and painted  all the deck furniture then moved on to the whinch and anchors.
Then I moved to the life boat, all the eye bolts and rings had to me made, installed the bilge pump, stairs and grating as well all glued in tight.
 So now it's on to the masts and rudder, possibly of putting it on the stand today we will see. Soon it will be just the rigging and sails. And then it's bring on the Pegasus  , I'm ready lol.
 

Beautiful work, Bruce!  Simply masterful.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Third trip to the cottage

Tiny steps…

The next pieces, according to the plans, were the ladders to the forecastle.  These would be the first pieces from the laser cut set to be used.  I am very impressed with this set as it is well labelled and has an index and diagrams of all the sheets to help you search. 
 
After carefully fussing for over an hour with the first tiny ladder, attempting to bend those blasted minuscule treads into place I was not in the mood to bend the second one right away.  Nonetheless, I carefully glued the first into place and as I saw those delicate rails sticking up above the forecastle I knew they would  certainly be crushed as I continued with the rest of the model.  I carefully took it off before the glue dried and stored it in a pill bottle for now.


Big steps…
At this point I had a choice of which of the four ships I wanted to build so I read over one of my reference books on flower-class corvettes that I had brought up to the cottage. I have purchased several books on these ships because I will be building the Revell 1:144 HMCS Snowberry kit in the near future - my first plastic model in 50 years.
 

 
HMCS Wetaskawin was mentioned as having sunk a u-boat early in the Battle of the Atlantic, so I went with that ship for this model and cut out the lower hull and gunwale pieces.  Clay modelling tools were used again to create curves to match the deck shape.  

Over two days I alternately glued hull sections.  First the lower hull, one side at a time.  To thicken the gunwales and provide printed details on the inboard view, the model requires an inner gunwale be glued to align with the outer section.  And then I made the stupid mistake of trimming off some lower hull that was sticking slightly above deck on the port side before gluing down the gunwales. This has left a little gap that I may have to address.🤬Fortunately, there are three more gunwales that I have to try and patch/fix the issue.
 
I should mention that I debated at length about cutting out the scuppers.  I regret my decision not to.  I think the model would have looked better and now that I completed these steps it will be too difficult to do a good job of cutting them out.  
 
And this is how the model sits until next visit:

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 

Third trip to the cottage

Tiny steps…

The next pieces, according to the plans, were the ladders to the forecastle.  These would be the first pieces from the laser cut set to be used.  I am very impressed with this set as it is well labelled and has an index and diagrams of all the sheets to help you search. 
 
After carefully fussing for over an hour with the first tiny ladder, attempting to bend those blasted minuscule treads into place I was not in the mood to bend the second one right away.  Nonetheless, I carefully glued the first into place and as I saw those delicate rails sticking up above the forecastle I knew they would  certainly be crushed as I continued with the rest of the model.  I carefully took it off before the glue dried and stored it in a pill bottle for now.


Big steps…
At this point I had a choice of which of the four ships I wanted to build so I read over one of my reference books on flower-class corvettes that I had brought up to the cottage. I have purchased several books on these ships because I will be building the Revell 1:144 HMCS Snowberry kit in the near future - my first plastic model in 50 years.
 

 
HMCS Wetaskawin was mentioned as having sunk a u-boat early in the Battle of the Atlantic, so I went with that ship for this model and cut out the lower hull and gunwale pieces.  Clay modelling tools were used again to create curves to match the deck shape.  

Over two days I alternately glued hull sections.  First the lower hull, one side at a time.  To thicken the gunwales and provide printed details on the inboard view, the model requires an inner gunwale be glued to align with the outer section.  And then I made the stupid mistake of trimming off some lower hull that was sticking slightly above deck on the port side before gluing down the gunwales. This has left a little gap that I may have to address.🤬Fortunately, there are three more gunwales that I have to try and patch/fix the issue.
 
I should mention that I debated at length about cutting out the scuppers.  I regret my decision not to.  I think the model would have looked better and now that I completed these steps it will be too difficult to do a good job of cutting them out.  
 
And this is how the model sits until next visit:

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 

Third trip to the cottage

Tiny steps…

The next pieces, according to the plans, were the ladders to the forecastle.  These would be the first pieces from the laser cut set to be used.  I am very impressed with this set as it is well labelled and has an index and diagrams of all the sheets to help you search. 
 
After carefully fussing for over an hour with the first tiny ladder, attempting to bend those blasted minuscule treads into place I was not in the mood to bend the second one right away.  Nonetheless, I carefully glued the first into place and as I saw those delicate rails sticking up above the forecastle I knew they would  certainly be crushed as I continued with the rest of the model.  I carefully took it off before the glue dried and stored it in a pill bottle for now.


Big steps…
At this point I had a choice of which of the four ships I wanted to build so I read over one of my reference books on flower-class corvettes that I had brought up to the cottage. I have purchased several books on these ships because I will be building the Revell 1:144 HMCS Snowberry kit in the near future - my first plastic model in 50 years.
 

 
HMCS Wetaskawin was mentioned as having sunk a u-boat early in the Battle of the Atlantic, so I went with that ship for this model and cut out the lower hull and gunwale pieces.  Clay modelling tools were used again to create curves to match the deck shape.  

Over two days I alternately glued hull sections.  First the lower hull, one side at a time.  To thicken the gunwales and provide printed details on the inboard view, the model requires an inner gunwale be glued to align with the outer section.  And then I made the stupid mistake of trimming off some lower hull that was sticking slightly above deck on the port side before gluing down the gunwales. This has left a little gap that I may have to address.🤬Fortunately, there are three more gunwales that I have to try and patch/fix the issue.
 
I should mention that I debated at length about cutting out the scuppers.  I regret my decision not to.  I think the model would have looked better and now that I completed these steps it will be too difficult to do a good job of cutting them out.  
 
And this is how the model sits until next visit:

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Introduction
 
Ah, summer! When you live in a cold place (the centre of Canada) summer is the time to take advantage of the warm sun and, if you’re lucky like I am, to relax at your cottage.  You would think that going to a secluded forest, being away from the bustle of city life, yard work and the lure of the internet you would have quality time with your modelling hobby.  Not really.  I found transporting a model and as many tools and materials as I anticipated needing an exercise in frustration.   Inevitably I was missing something and there really wasn’t adequate space to set up a long-term work area.  
 
Until now.  Several months ago I joined the Model Shipwrights of Niagara (MSON) and, as a member, I was able to attend a couple of online workshops this spring that featured card models.  Veteran card modellers gave us invaluable advice and espoused the virtues of a hobby that was easy to transport, used very few small tools, and promised fun.  Christopher Cooke, owner and proprietor of Marcle Models in the UK, presented an incredible range of models from several vendors.  I had found my cottage hobby! 
 
Not long afterward I ordered the H.M.V. model of HMCS Agassiz - a flower-class corvette - plus the laser-cut accessory kit from Marcle Models.  Mr. Cooke did inform me that there would be a delay because he did not stock this kit but it arrived as anticipated in perfect shape.
 
So, on our next trip to the cottage I added a small satchel with the model, some Aleene’s glue and a few tools to our regular cargo.
 

 
And now the build…
 
 

Third trip to the cottage

Tiny steps…

The next pieces, according to the plans, were the ladders to the forecastle.  These would be the first pieces from the laser cut set to be used.  I am very impressed with this set as it is well labelled and has an index and diagrams of all the sheets to help you search. 
 
After carefully fussing for over an hour with the first tiny ladder, attempting to bend those blasted minuscule treads into place I was not in the mood to bend the second one right away.  Nonetheless, I carefully glued the first into place and as I saw those delicate rails sticking up above the forecastle I knew they would  certainly be crushed as I continued with the rest of the model.  I carefully took it off before the glue dried and stored it in a pill bottle for now.


Big steps…
At this point I had a choice of which of the four ships I wanted to build so I read over one of my reference books on flower-class corvettes that I had brought up to the cottage. I have purchased several books on these ships because I will be building the Revell 1:144 HMCS Snowberry kit in the near future - my first plastic model in 50 years.
 

 
HMCS Wetaskawin was mentioned as having sunk a u-boat early in the Battle of the Atlantic, so I went with that ship for this model and cut out the lower hull and gunwale pieces.  Clay modelling tools were used again to create curves to match the deck shape.  

Over two days I alternately glued hull sections.  First the lower hull, one side at a time.  To thicken the gunwales and provide printed details on the inboard view, the model requires an inner gunwale be glued to align with the outer section.  And then I made the stupid mistake of trimming off some lower hull that was sticking slightly above deck on the port side before gluing down the gunwales. This has left a little gap that I may have to address.🤬Fortunately, there are three more gunwales that I have to try and patch/fix the issue.
 
I should mention that I debated at length about cutting out the scuppers.  I regret my decision not to.  I think the model would have looked better and now that I completed these steps it will be too difficult to do a good job of cutting them out.  
 
And this is how the model sits until next visit:

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 

Third trip to the cottage

Tiny steps…

The next pieces, according to the plans, were the ladders to the forecastle.  These would be the first pieces from the laser cut set to be used.  I am very impressed with this set as it is well labelled and has an index and diagrams of all the sheets to help you search. 
 
After carefully fussing for over an hour with the first tiny ladder, attempting to bend those blasted minuscule treads into place I was not in the mood to bend the second one right away.  Nonetheless, I carefully glued the first into place and as I saw those delicate rails sticking up above the forecastle I knew they would  certainly be crushed as I continued with the rest of the model.  I carefully took it off before the glue dried and stored it in a pill bottle for now.


Big steps…
At this point I had a choice of which of the four ships I wanted to build so I read over one of my reference books on flower-class corvettes that I had brought up to the cottage. I have purchased several books on these ships because I will be building the Revell 1:144 HMCS Snowberry kit in the near future - my first plastic model in 50 years.
 

 
HMCS Wetaskawin was mentioned as having sunk a u-boat early in the Battle of the Atlantic, so I went with that ship for this model and cut out the lower hull and gunwale pieces.  Clay modelling tools were used again to create curves to match the deck shape.  

Over two days I alternately glued hull sections.  First the lower hull, one side at a time.  To thicken the gunwales and provide printed details on the inboard view, the model requires an inner gunwale be glued to align with the outer section.  And then I made the stupid mistake of trimming off some lower hull that was sticking slightly above deck on the port side before gluing down the gunwales. This has left a little gap that I may have to address.🤬Fortunately, there are three more gunwales that I have to try and patch/fix the issue.
 
I should mention that I debated at length about cutting out the scuppers.  I regret my decision not to.  I think the model would have looked better and now that I completed these steps it will be too difficult to do a good job of cutting them out.  
 
And this is how the model sits until next visit:

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 

Third trip to the cottage

Tiny steps…

The next pieces, according to the plans, were the ladders to the forecastle.  These would be the first pieces from the laser cut set to be used.  I am very impressed with this set as it is well labelled and has an index and diagrams of all the sheets to help you search. 
 
After carefully fussing for over an hour with the first tiny ladder, attempting to bend those blasted minuscule treads into place I was not in the mood to bend the second one right away.  Nonetheless, I carefully glued the first into place and as I saw those delicate rails sticking up above the forecastle I knew they would  certainly be crushed as I continued with the rest of the model.  I carefully took it off before the glue dried and stored it in a pill bottle for now.


Big steps…
At this point I had a choice of which of the four ships I wanted to build so I read over one of my reference books on flower-class corvettes that I had brought up to the cottage. I have purchased several books on these ships because I will be building the Revell 1:144 HMCS Snowberry kit in the near future - my first plastic model in 50 years.
 

 
HMCS Wetaskawin was mentioned as having sunk a u-boat early in the Battle of the Atlantic, so I went with that ship for this model and cut out the lower hull and gunwale pieces.  Clay modelling tools were used again to create curves to match the deck shape.  

Over two days I alternately glued hull sections.  First the lower hull, one side at a time.  To thicken the gunwales and provide printed details on the inboard view, the model requires an inner gunwale be glued to align with the outer section.  And then I made the stupid mistake of trimming off some lower hull that was sticking slightly above deck on the port side before gluing down the gunwales. This has left a little gap that I may have to address.🤬Fortunately, there are three more gunwales that I have to try and patch/fix the issue.
 
I should mention that I debated at length about cutting out the scuppers.  I regret my decision not to.  I think the model would have looked better and now that I completed these steps it will be too difficult to do a good job of cutting them out.  
 
And this is how the model sits until next visit:

 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe