Matrim

I have a nice Byrnes table saw but have not managed to find (yet) a connector that will allow my festool dust extractor (CTM) 35mmh to connect efficiently to the U.S dust port.  (38mm interior hole?). So the hoover is loose and thus with a gap the air pressure is lessened so loosening the effectiveness.
 
In the past I have used masking tape etc to try to seal it better and have also tried some uni-size adapters which have universally failed to work so far.
 
So this is just to see if anyone knows of a decent connector I can look to purchase that will make a better join/seal..

Chapelle’s book includes 130 full page plates of fishing Schooner plans (hull lines drawings) including one of Benjamin Latham, but the real reason why I think that the book would be helpful is that the last 300+ pages are a reproduction of Chapelle’s notebook detailing in minute detail the construction and fittings of these interesting vessels.  This information was taken from actual vessels and contemporary marine equipment catalogs.  BTW any of the 130 plates in the book should be available in a larger sized format from the Smithsonian Institution.
 
Roger

Nice thickness... I am  using cotton but it is a) a little too 'fluffy' and behaves weirdly sometimes so am looking for something better and this might be it..

Looking good.  Comparing the ship the plan on the wall, I think you nailed it.

heres what i got

Here's the thread and glue I use, both from The Essential Fly:

You can see a strand of the thread across the white bottle cap. According to my micrometer it's 0.03mm/.001" - roughly the diameter of thin human hair.
 
Derek

We had the pleasure of Mitch's presence at several Admiralty Models workshops. In his non-assuming and humorous way he always seemed to be the center of attention. My sincere condolences to his family and friends. 

Yes, Mitch was a real mensch. I, too, was shocked to read of his death especially at a relatively young age. He was a very friendly and laid-back man. It's obvious from reading the above that he will be much missed. my condolences to his family and friends.

This is very sad to hear. When I came to the NRG conference a few years ago it was the very first time I had ever met anyone in person associated with ship model building. Mitch was the very first person I ever talked to and he was so pleasant and made me feel welcome. Will miss seeing him at the conference. 

He was also a dear friend of mine.   The nicest guy you would ever want to meet.  We had many a long conversation about just about everything.....good memories from the many conferences we went to together.  Its so sad and shocking.  ......my condolences to his kids and grandchildren.   Rest in piece my friend....I still cant believe it.  Just 66 years old.

In Memorium Mitch Michelson July 12, 1953 to August 28, 2019     This week, we lost a passionate member of the ship modeling community. Mitch Michelson died on Wednesday, August 28 from a massive heart attack. He was 66 years old. His funeral was held on August 30 in his hometown of San Antonio, Texas.    Mitch joined the Nautical Research Guild in 1989. He had been a Director since 2009 and served as Chairman of the Board in 2017. Those members who have attended the annual Conference recently will remember Mitch as our humorous emcee.   In addition to his contributions to the Guild, he was actively involved in Boy Scouts and mentored many young men to achieve Eagle Scout status. He was an avid pipe collector and served on the boards of several business organizations and his synagogue.    He is survived by three children and three grandchildren.    Most of all, he was my friend.   Kurt Van Dahm Chairman of the Board Nautical Research Guild  

That's a rather nice approach

That's a rather nice approach

That's a rather nice approach

Good Morning All;
 
The best method I ever used for making mast hoops was with an ordinary hand plane.
 
This was to set the blade to a slightly coarse cut, and then carefully plane a long shaving off the edge of a plank of pine (no knots being present) The shaving will have a natural tendency to curl. Weight it down flat and coat the inner side with glue, then roll it around a suitable sized dowel, with a rubber band around the outside, and leave to dry.
 
Once dry, this will give a perfect tube, from which hoops of the desired height can be cut with ease. This works for woldings and hoops for sails sliding up and down the masts.
 
This was a tip I saw long ago in (I think it was) Underhill's 'Leon' book. But it works wonderfully well, and is quick.
 
The plane needs to be sharp, of course.
 
All the best,
 
Mark 

Chuck, I have downloaded the plans, but am forcing myself to finish my other projects first before starting.  I should be good to go around 2030.  I'd do 100% scratch, anyway (also thinking about reducing everything and creating a mini-model out of this).
 
Alan

We have had about 20 people sign up.....but only a few have started their build logs.  As I said before, it would be a HUGE help if you guys who joined would start your build logs.  I realize there are a lot of plans collectors out there....but please, if you plan on actually building the model, can you start your build logs and let me know if you plan on using any of the laser cut parts during the build.   I dont have a lot of time in the shop for production with many things to laser cut.   It would seriously help me out knowing how many sets I need to cut.
 
And remember, do not pass these plans along to other builders after you sign up.  These are for your own personal use ONLY.   That wouldnt be in the spirit of the project.  I have already had one request for parts from someone who hasnt signed up but said he was given the plans.   That isnt good.   Its taking advantage of the spirit of the project.   Its only $15 for crying out loud!!!  I cant catch a break.

The plastic stuff in kits is treated and thats why it wont unravel.  Same is true for the natural stuff.  But not all laid rope will unravel.  If properly hardened after laying it up it certainly wont unravel.  My rope wont unravel at all.  If you use a sharp...sharp blade this is especially true.  Using a dull blade may make the ends start to frizz up a bit.   My larger ropes may unravel a little bit,  but not too much.  I have since created a method to ensure that doesnt happen.
 
The smaller sizes will not unravel at all....The key is getting the opposing tensions in balance.  If you dont wind the three strands initially enough times then it is most likely the final rope will unravel.   That is usually the mistake that is made.   When I first started making rope,  that was the case.  But I kept increasing the amount of twist in the initial strands until I was doing it four times as much.    Each time I increased it....the rope unraveled less.    Also remember not to over twist all three strands together.  That will cause kinking in the final rope.   You must through trial and error strike the correct balance in the tension.
 
Chuck

And some more photos .... the last ones 
 

 

 

 

 
and at the last once more my personal favourite photo
 

Hallo Christian,
 
I made in my post a small mistake which confused a little bit.
I mentioned "class" at the Mermaid, which was incorrect. Thanks Russ for the explanation and the correct information of the different vessels!
 
 
In this topic Russ made already a good clarification in his post: 
 
For everybody interested in frigates this book also written by Robert Gardiner could be also of interest:
 
THE HEAVY FRIGATE - Eighteen-Pounder Frigate: Volume I, 1778 - 1800
 
Coming back to the Triton Section and as all of you were already expecting the Section is finally finished.
 
I want to say many Thanks
 
to Russ who made this project possible with his preparation of the complete information
as well as his continuous assistance and helpful comments during this log,
the draftsman Don who prepared here wonderful drawings, very exact and detailed,
so everybody could understand and follow.
And off course many many thanks to my friend and mentor Zeljko.
 
It was a nice and interesting and sometimes surprising log and I enjoyed all of your comments,
remarks, questions as well as all discussions.
So therefore also many thanks to all members writing interesting posts in this topic.
 
Many Thanks for your attention during the time and I hope you had fun
and some of you found one or two new information,
how to make something and / or also how not to make it......
 
 
Here are some photos of the finished Section
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

The installed guns ready for rigging 
 

 

this is the link to MSW updated list of banned kits
 

The angle does change as it moves. I tend to simplify buy having 3 angle cutters to do the line dependant on where it is.

K done and dusted. A nice fun little kit when all is said and done. I am also pleased I have got back into 'making' stuff and feel as if I steadily improved as I went along.
 
I sometimes wonder if a more steady researchy approach would suit better and I may adjust to that for the scratch. As it stands I like to see if I can work it out myself first which often hurts 'quality' in the end. Equally that's not the way I am currently wired and it is satisfying working out how to improve a technique myself.
 
Thanks to Chuck for the design and thanks to everyone else for any encouragement along the way.
 
Look another 'soft focus in the dark' shot  l tell myself this is how non-ship modellers see these models anyway..
 
 

 
 

Hi all
Here is photos of my 1/48 Tamiya Kawasaki Ki 61.
Colors are: AK extreme metals, MRP:s and Flory brown wash 

The camouflage is added with freehand from Harder Stenbeck Infinity with 0.2 nozzle. This was done on directly on the AK extreme metal without any protection. Seems to work fine.
If I was to do the kit again so should I paint the blue and yellow strips instead of using the kits decals. They where rather thick.   

Jörgen