Matrim

Its not the just the size, its the cost of the kits as well. Basically everything with more than 20 guns would be difficult to sell if they came in 1:48. Most are not even in 1:64.
 
For smaller ships i could agree with the argument though

Lovely, I must admit when I finished my Bounty I was considering  back to my potential scratch built Amphion but may squeeze an Alert kit in first (my niece's daughter has been begging me for a model as well)

Brass is always polished in the marine environment. Bronze is not. Brass would generally be limited to light sheet metal work trim aboard ship. This would be things like compass binacles and lamps on period ships. Brass, an alloy of copper and zinc, requires constant polishing or it will quickly tarnish, forming verdigris green oxidation in salt air. Bronze, an alloy of copper and tin and other metals in varying proportions, is a far stronger metal than brass and was used for guns and some cast fittings. It oxidizes slowly, forming a patina with a brown color. "Gunmetal" is an alloy of copper, tin, and zinc, used for casting long guns and oxidizes to form a dark grey patina. Some bronze alloys with higher copper content employed in marine applications will form the familiar copper green patina, such as that sometimes seen on cast bronze statues. The color of the patina on any "yellow metal" piece will vary depending upon the proportion of alloyed metals, exposure to salt air, and weathering and friction on the part (i.e. handling, as seen on coins, etc.) The spectrum of color is quite varied.
 
Iron simply rusts. Cast iron rusts more than does wrought iron. Wrought iron was used for metal fittings fashioned by ship smiths. Early iron-bound guns were made of wrought iron pieces, later supplanted by cast iron guns. Aboard period ships, iron was always painted, generally black, to prevent corrosion. 
 
Yellow metal patina palate:
 
    Gunmetal, showing the effect of "new" surface green oxidation from exposure to salt weather and "mature" grey patina where the green has worn off in places. 
 

 
 
 

Lovely, I must admit when I finished my Bounty I was considering  back to my potential scratch built Amphion but may squeeze an Alert kit in first (my niece's daughter has been begging me for a model as well)

You know it makes sense  

Lovely, I must admit when I finished my Bounty I was considering  back to my potential scratch built Amphion but may squeeze an Alert kit in first (my niece's daughter has been begging me for a model as well)

Actually I am looking for both, brass and cast iron to show the difference in my slices 🙂
 
I have no idea when the marines started to polish everything for the polishing sake. 
 
Steel gives a  choice of about 5 different recipes in one of his books, just can´t find the place right now.
 
Bruzelius gives this short review of Brady´s recipes, http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/Fordyce(1837)_p47.html
 
Blacking guns and shot.
Coal-tar alone, or mixed with a little water, is the best thing for Blacking Guns and Shot. It should be laid on quite warm; and if the day be cold, a hot shot may with advantage be put into the Guns to warm the Metal, and make it take the Blacking better; due attention being previously paid to unloading.
Lay the Stuff on as thin as possible, with Paint-brushes; using hot Salamanders or Bolts to keep it warm.
If well laid on, and wiped afterwards with an oil-cloth occasionally, this process will prevent rust, and preserve the good look of the Guns for a length of time, without ever having recourse to washing with water. [p 48]
It is useful to measure and keep a memorandum of the quantity of Blacking required for each of the operations. A Ten-gun Brig requires as follows:-
 
For Blacking  Rigging, ...  12  Gallons "  Bends, ...  2  " "  Yards, ...  3  " "  Guns and Shot, ...  1  " The time now required for drying the Rigging, &c. may be most advantageously employed in completing Stores, Provisions, and Water.
French recipe for blacking guns.
To one Gallon of Vinegar put ten Ounces of Lampblack, and one Pound and a half of clean-sifted Iron-rust, and mix them well together.
Lay this on the Guns, after a good coat of Black Paint, and rub it occasionally with a soft Oil-cloth.
 
 
Here is Brady in the original
https://books.google.de/books?id=wQxqa5K_zcgC&printsec=frontcover&hl=de&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
Page 389 to 393
 
If one looks in the net for life fire, one can find some brass cannons. From the american civil war those are usually quite polished and really shiny ...
 

... or a little bit more dull but still light in color.
 


(OK, this one was wet by rain on top of it)
 
But very interesting is the reproduced gun of the Vasa. When cast still shiny and lightcolored ...
 

... already darker when drilled ...
 

... and nicely brown when fired.



XXXDAn

Hello,
 
This is quite true for the project, I am working on the monograph of a frigate of 24 "L’Égyptienne". The plans are almost finished, it remains the writing of the text.
Expected release early next year but not at Ancre Editions but under my name as usual since 2006.
 
Gérard Delacroix

The U-Boat Commanders - Knight's Cross Holders 1939-1945
 


Company: Pen & Sword Books Ltd
Author: Jeremy Dixon
Kit No:  ISBN  978 1 52671 873 0
Pages: 323
Retail Price: £ 25.-  ($49.95 U.S)
 
 
This is a very detailed book a very specific subject which follows the biographic approach often seen in such reference books.  It provides detailed career information on every U-boat commander granted the Knights Cross and on average covers two pages worth of detailed information on each. This ranges from full career details to their actual combat record and command histories. Finally it also covers (should the officer have survived the war) briefer details of post-war jobs and events.
 
It is is not a book for a casual reader to dive into but would appeal to anyone with an interest in the German Navy, the submarine/convoy war and German Naval operations especially as the information contained within would be difficult to obtain elsewhere.
 
It is the sort of book where you either utilise it for information on a specific officer or interest (or officers if researching a particular submarine or sinking) or  read perhaps an officer a day. It does provide some fascinating insights into the men who commanded these ships and the German Navy as a whole plus shows some of the difficulty the U-Boats operated under during the second world war.
 
Example pages
 
 

 

 
 
 

The U-Boat Commanders - Knight's Cross Holders 1939-1945
 


Company: Pen & Sword Books Ltd
Author: Jeremy Dixon
Kit No:  ISBN  978 1 52671 873 0
Pages: 323
Retail Price: £ 25.-  ($49.95 U.S)
 
 
This is a very detailed book a very specific subject which follows the biographic approach often seen in such reference books.  It provides detailed career information on every U-boat commander granted the Knights Cross and on average covers two pages worth of detailed information on each. This ranges from full career details to their actual combat record and command histories. Finally it also covers (should the officer have survived the war) briefer details of post-war jobs and events.
 
It is is not a book for a casual reader to dive into but would appeal to anyone with an interest in the German Navy, the submarine/convoy war and German Naval operations especially as the information contained within would be difficult to obtain elsewhere.
 
It is the sort of book where you either utilise it for information on a specific officer or interest (or officers if researching a particular submarine or sinking) or  read perhaps an officer a day. It does provide some fascinating insights into the men who commanded these ships and the German Navy as a whole plus shows some of the difficulty the U-Boats operated under during the second world war.
 
Example pages
 
 

 

 
 
 

The U-Boat Commanders - Knight's Cross Holders 1939-1945
 


Company: Pen & Sword Books Ltd
Author: Jeremy Dixon
Kit No:  ISBN  978 1 52671 873 0
Pages: 323
Retail Price: £ 25.-  ($49.95 U.S)
 
 
This is a very detailed book a very specific subject which follows the biographic approach often seen in such reference books.  It provides detailed career information on every U-boat commander granted the Knights Cross and on average covers two pages worth of detailed information on each. This ranges from full career details to their actual combat record and command histories. Finally it also covers (should the officer have survived the war) briefer details of post-war jobs and events.
 
It is is not a book for a casual reader to dive into but would appeal to anyone with an interest in the German Navy, the submarine/convoy war and German Naval operations especially as the information contained within would be difficult to obtain elsewhere.
 
It is the sort of book where you either utilise it for information on a specific officer or interest (or officers if researching a particular submarine or sinking) or  read perhaps an officer a day. It does provide some fascinating insights into the men who commanded these ships and the German Navy as a whole plus shows some of the difficulty the U-Boats operated under during the second world war.
 
Example pages
 
 

 

 
 
 

The U-Boat Commanders - Knight's Cross Holders 1939-1945
 


Company: Pen & Sword Books Ltd
Author: Jeremy Dixon
Kit No:  ISBN  978 1 52671 873 0
Pages: 323
Retail Price: £ 25.-  ($49.95 U.S)
 
 
This is a very detailed book a very specific subject which follows the biographic approach often seen in such reference books.  It provides detailed career information on every U-boat commander granted the Knights Cross and on average covers two pages worth of detailed information on each. This ranges from full career details to their actual combat record and command histories. Finally it also covers (should the officer have survived the war) briefer details of post-war jobs and events.
 
It is is not a book for a casual reader to dive into but would appeal to anyone with an interest in the German Navy, the submarine/convoy war and German Naval operations especially as the information contained within would be difficult to obtain elsewhere.
 
It is the sort of book where you either utilise it for information on a specific officer or interest (or officers if researching a particular submarine or sinking) or  read perhaps an officer a day. It does provide some fascinating insights into the men who commanded these ships and the German Navy as a whole plus shows some of the difficulty the U-Boats operated under during the second world war.
 
Example pages
 
 

 

 
 
 

One should perhaps also mention that the included angle should always be more or less 90° (as per your sketch A above). However, the angle by which this corner intersects with the keel/false keel changes (as mentioned by others already) along the keel-stem/stern assemply as the angle by which the planks intersect with these changes.
 
The best thing would be to take a 'spline', i.e. a thin straight plank with clean sides at right angles and have it aligned to the outside line of the rabbet as per your drawings. This allows you to estimate how much wood you need to cut away for the inside line so that the spline butts nicely against the rabbet.

As mentioned above, the angle changes as it should be close to the angle of the frame (or bulkhead) where it meets the keel.   Perhaps the below sketch
will help you a bit
Allan
 
     
 

The angle does change as it moves. I tend to simplify buy having 3 angle cutters to do the line dependant on where it is.

This may help a little - shows how the mizzen mast on the Frigate Constitution is stepped.
 

Not sure, I understand your question right. However, on the point how masts are secured to the hull, one needs to distinguish between model and full-size practice.
 
In full-size practice, a mast is fixed to the hull at three points: 1) the mast-spur, which is a square or rectangular short part at the bottom end of the mast that is inserted into a matching hole in the keel, false keel, or an extra piece of wood bolted onto the same, 2) by wedges around the mast, driven into a frame that forms part of the upper deck structure, 3) at its top by the system of stays and shrouds.
 
On models, point (2) above is usually omitted or not functional. It depends also on the construction, namely whether PoF, PoB, bread-and-butter, etc. Sometimes, people provide a pipe section into which the mast is inserted.

Hi, both may be right depending on where on the hull the profile is for. Possibly A where the planks terminate at the stem and B along the lower keel.

I cheat a bit with rigging.  After lines are in place and properly tensioned, I coat them lightly with a 50-50 mix of white glue and water.  Outside of re-working the rigging, try what Gregory suggested.
 
One question....  Is the model in "controlled environment"?  Humidity usually causes this and we've seen issues with rigging loosening and then tightening as the humidity changes.  But that's for cotton.

I love my Hegner but it is probably out of your modelling  budget

Crusoe, Castaways and Shipwrecks in the perilous Age of Sail
by Mike Rendell
Pen & Sword Books, 2019
142 pages, 16cm * 24cm
 

 
This is an  enjoyable historical retelling of what would have been some of the headline news (for weeks – if it had had such coverage) items over the Georgian period. The author covers some widely differing disasters that can be grouped into three sections – castaways that could have influenced the writing of Robinson Crusoe (and the authors fascinating life), enormous storms and the damage caused and finally single ship disasters of varying natures. The Bounty Mutiny is also included but this strangely seems a unusual side-line perhaps included just because of its modern day fame. I was pleased to note that the author follows the current historical interpretation of those events (as best covered  by Caroline Alexander) and not the more populist view. That was the one event that seemed out of place though it might be due to the huge amount of popular research already existing on that specifically.
 
His style is very readable and reminded me (at least) of the military historian Gordon Corrigan in that there is a certain degree of humorous asides with regard to some of the people/events contained within though never to any extent to undermine the conscientious telling of some fascinating tales.
 
Most of the accounts relate to Georgians in the 17th century so mainly British ( though a large portion involve people living in what would become the U.S ). Some Dutch and French events are referenced in equal detail with one of the Dutch in particular being particularly shocking.
 
It is not a huge book but is nicely presented with decent quality paper (a pet peeve of mine on some prints) so it makes a pleasant light read and the author shows considerable mastery of his obvious interests. I found it both fascinating and readable any would recommend it to anyone with an interest in some of the more common disasters that could affect seafarers in those far off times.

I like Holly myself though it usually comes in unusual sizes due to the small size of the source. To me it represents nicely a holystoned deck though it can run from pale white to a yellower tinge.

Here is a close up of some of mine used on my Bounty
 

holly

I like Holly myself though it usually comes in unusual sizes due to the small size of the source. To me it represents nicely a holystoned deck though it can run from pale white to a yellower tinge.

Here is a close up of some of mine used on my Bounty
 

I like Holly myself though it usually comes in unusual sizes due to the small size of the source. To me it represents nicely a holystoned deck though it can run from pale white to a yellower tinge.

Here is a close up of some of mine used on my Bounty