Glen McGuire
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Everything posted by Glen McGuire
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Love the barnacles! Those minor details are one of the things that set your work apart. BTW, I'm having new shingles put on my house today. I hope my roofers do as good a job as you did with the shingles on this building!- 333 replies
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I've been using cuticle trimmers to flush cut thread but they don't work on metal. I need to get a jeweler's flush cutter. Keith, great walk-thru of your ratline process. As with the rest of your build, very clean and crisp. Beautiful work!
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Probably! But unfortunately I did not think of that. ☹️ If I end up flinging my painted shields all over the garage this week, I may try that. Wouldn't be the first time I started something completely over!
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Het Steven, I actually considered that but could not figure out a way to hold the tiny, flat head secure enough for me to decorate it. No easy answer! I've already spent hours decorating the shields so I just gotta put my head down and git r done!
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That is a very insightful question, Ian. The answer is yes, but it ain’t easy. I did a practice run on a spare, using a sideways mounted Dremel and cutoff wheel. The first challenge was getting the nail head completely off without the spinning Dremel flinging it into the far reaches of my garage never to be found again. The 2nd challenge was getting the back of the shield deburred so it will lie smooth against the gunwale. With 30 of these things, it’s gonna be a long and tedious process. I predict lots of curse words to follow.
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I think I do these build logs just so I can see where y’all will take the conversation. Would never have guessed Monty Python, but here we are thanks to Mark! Trying to get the thought of canoes out of my mind, it’s on to another iconic feature of Viking longships – the colorful shields mounted on the gunwale. I searched around and found a shield I liked, which was a yellow background with a red cross (1st pic). The 2nd pic is an idea of the ship's look with all shields in place. For my shields, I found a batch of small nails in the garage that I thought would work. They are ¾” long with a head that is 1/8” diameter. So I painted all the nail heads yellow. While waiting for them to dry, an annoying friend came over and told me it was boring to make all the shields the same color and the same design. I call her annoying because, of course, she was right. Sigh. We did some searching and sure enough, we found few examples of Viking longships with uniform shields, and they were indeed boring. Ugh. More confirmation she was right (at least I was smart enough not to argue with her). So long story short, we picked 5 different colors and decided on some simple designs that I thought I could pull off on a 1/8” canvas. Here’s the artist’s rendition of what it will hopefully look like. After scraping the yellow paint off my previously painted nail heads and repainting them, the real fun began. How to get the lines for the crosses drawn on each shield. First, I tried dipping thread in paint and laying it across the nail head. Epic fail. The thread made nice straight lines but I could not get uniform thickness. Next, I tried painting the lines with a fine tip brush. The results were like Steven, a.k.a. @Louie da fly, described Fosters Lager – ghastly. So I took a page from my previous Morgan build where I glued on white thread for pinstriping. The results were passable I think, at least from a distance anyway. Here’s the array of 15 shields for the port side of the ship.
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You are off to a great start, Bob!! And now I see clearly that you have the true palindrome Hannah on the transom!
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Wonderful work on both ships, Bob. I love the clamshell nameplates. Very creative!!
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- Second Build
- Pinta
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Congrats on the accomplishment, Ian! That gives you more cuss words in the bank that you can use later! What are you using for the ply skin and how thick is it?
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Hmmmmm. That's a very interesting idea. I might be able to solder a couple of small bits of wire to the middle of the eye pin's shaft where they could act as sort of an axle which would allow me to lay it down and then flip it back up. I'm gonna play around with that. Thanks for the suggestion, Keith.
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I agree, Ian. The body of the bottle is not wide enough for me to to flip the ship around once it's inside, so attaching the curlique thingy to the sternpost will have to occur at the very back of the bottle. Fun awaits!!
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That is so awesome! What a great gift and keepsake this will be for your niece. The first SIB I did from scratch I chose the Charles W Morgan because my friend that gave me the bottle was named Morgan. But I was selfish and kept the project for myself after I finished it rather than giving it to her! I am glad you are doing a build log as you go. I'm really looking forward to watching your work, Bob!
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Reluctantly putting aside the far more interesting topics of animals and alcohol, it's back to the ship. I finished shaping the 2 halves of the hull and then stained them with an oak-colored gel stain. Next, I wanted to do something to resemble the Oseberg's metallic, ornamental edging on the stem post and stern post. I dug around in my pile of leftover brass sprues and found a couple of pieces that had a curve matching the upsweep on the stem/stern posts. So I cut those to fit. The curlicue thingy at the top (proper historical term no doubt) makes the whole assembly too tall to fit thru the bottle opening, which means it will have to be attached inside the bottle. So far, the only thing I've been able to come up with to simulate the curlicue is a 1/32" brass eye pin with the shaft curved to shape and the eye squeezed into as tight a curl as I possibly could. I may revisit that at some point later if I can come up with a better idea. I keep reminding myself that at this scale, the goal is really a reasonable impression of something rather than an exact replica.
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By the way, I did not realize till a couple of days ago that you had posted a question at the end of my Zheng He Treasure Fleet build log a while back. Not sure if you found a suitable answer yet, but I went ahead and answered your question regarding adding waves on top of epoxy resin. Here's a link to the last page of that log where you can scroll down to the bottom and see my explanation. Hope it helps. Happy to answer any other questions you may have. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32318-zheng-hes-treasure-fleet-by-glen-mcguire-–-finished-bottle-11000/page/7/ Also BTW, I am fascinated by your use of a 3D printer for this stuff!
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That's funny! Same thing goes for the Lone Star Beer mentioned in my first post. Great name, horrible beer.
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Hey Tom! Welcome to the best forum on the whole internet!
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OK. I watched the Bundy commercials on that link. Hilarious! Especially the camping one! We used to get a lot of Fosters Lager commercials here - "Australian for beer" - but I don't recall seeing one in a long, long time.
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@O.B.one Hey O.B. one, I apologize for the late response. I just noticed your comment and question. Thanks for the kind words on the project. To answer your question about the waves, it's a 2-step process, First, I pour the resin in the bottle and let it dry. I will set the bottle aside with a small desk fan in front to speed up the drying process and try to prevent any fogging of the bottle. Even with the fan it can takes several days for the resin to fully harden depending on how thick it is. Once the resin is dry, I use acrylic paint mixed with gel gloss medium for the actual waves. Once I get the color of the paint to match the resin, I take a long Q-tip and dab it on top of the resin, then swirl it around a bit. Once dry the acrylic paint is dry, I'll hit the top edges of the waves with just a touch of white paint. If you go to my Independence build log ( Independence) and look at post 131/132 you can see a couple of better pics of the water than you see on this log. I know there are a lot of methods for making water and waves inside the bottle but this method has worked well for me. I like the look of the resin/acrylic paint better than the clay or putty water you often see. Again, I'm really sorry I did not see this sooner. Hope this info helps.
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- Bottle
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What an amazing sprint to the finish! I am out of breath just watching. Wonderful work, Phil.
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Thanks, Keith. I probably did a better job with the planking on the first go, but the rebuild will work better overall (hopefully).
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Well, I had to do some backtracking. I was having trouble making a smooth transition from the planking, bow, and stern to the curve and upsweep of the stem post and stern post. I could not make it work to my satisfaction with the current hull/planking. So I decided I just needed to bite the bullet and start over. Ugh. As I started rebuilding the hull, I thought, "this is gonna take way too long. Hmmmm, why not just sand off the planking and rebuild from there?" So I did probably the most delicate sanding I've ever tried and it worked out ok. With my hull still intact, I rebuilt the bow and stern. Then I re-planked and now I've got the proper shape going for the stem post and stern post. Both full posts will be built separately and attached inside the bottle. Next step is to replicate all this for the other half of the hull.
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