Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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There was /is a banner at the Malco site saying only the ownership had changed. All the employees and infrastructure remain the same. I use their blades with my Proxxon FET and have never had a problem.
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Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
Gregory replied to OldeManToad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The Titebond should be fine.. -
Take a look at some of the build logs for 17th century ships.
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That certainly looks good. I agree to keeping it simple when possible. I personally would not sweat the historical thing unless you find yourself in a situation where a client is going to pay $50,000, only if it is "historically accurate"..😁
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What is your technique for getting the folds? When you tried with the tissue paper, did you tape it to a plain piece of paper. I have had pretty good success doing that.
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I have plans drawn by Chapelle as well as the MS Plans drawn by Campbell. I think the problem with Chapelle and Campbell is that they are only showing two cross trees where according to Lees there would have been three after 1706. I would expect Colonials would have followed British practice at this time, so Chapelle and Campbell may have got it wrong. How did the practicum draw the trestle trees and cross trees? If there are only two cross trees, I would model it after the plans as shown. Here is how Petersson shows the topmast cross trees, which is how I would model it if I wanted to follow practice; with a cross tree in the middle and not a chock. I wouldn't follow the practicum unless it calls for three cross trees.
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What is the diameter and arbor of the Preac? I see there is a site called “smaller than life” that sells preac blades. Sorry I can’t post links right now.
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I think a set of plans would be a good 2nd choice.
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America is one of my favorite subjects. I look forward to seeing your work. Those plans are a treasure. A great resource for a scratch build.
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- America
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I found if you Google “USS Kearsarge 1861” and choose ‘images’, you will get several good pictures of the cannon. The rigging details may be a little difficult to sort out. The best image I saw was on Wikipedia.
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I would like to see those figures painted. I don't fancy myself much of a painter, but those figures make me want to try.
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I think they are ' interesting'. They add some character . I like the slight caricature nature of some of the faces. I am at in a bit of a quandary about adding figures to a build. To be realistic, the sheer numbers would be distracting from what I want to showcase. I ponder the idea of maybe a single figure along the rail to add a sense of perspective. Otherwise I like the idea of including them in build photos , but not so much in the finished model. If I may clutter up your log a bit.😁
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Interesting figures. What is your source for those?
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pin vise and drill bits
Gregory replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a couple of these from Amazon The chuck goes from .5 to 3mm according to the specs, but I'm sure I've gone smaller than .5 , but I mostly use the 1/8 shank carbide bits. It's got a real nice feel to it, and there is nothing in the build quality that makes me think it will not outlast me.
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Are you going to do mostly right angle cuts? I put together very reliable miter that works with very thin saws and single edge razor blades. I you are interested I can put some pictures up. l also use my Proxxon FET for cutting thin stuff an don’t have trouble with tearing that can’t be remedied with light sanding if it needs it at all.
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I’m sure a lot of instructions call for that kind of construction, but it’s fairly easy to do something like glue a small diameter dowel to the inside corners and place holes where needed in the deck. In the end, it’s what works best for you. For free standing parts like fife rails and such it’s a matter of coming up with a pinning solution. I’d be happy to provide an example If you would like.
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I can’t think of any situation where I would glue anything directly to the deck. There would be some kind of pinning process that penetrated the deck, so that the finnish of the deck is not a factor.
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how to value a pre 1950 model of the Santa Maria
Gregory replied to amuzed_traveler's topic in New member Introductions
What kind of estimate are you getting for the refurbishing? If you found a model like this in restored condition, in an antique store, I would be surprised if they would be asking more the $200. The value of something like this, is more as a family keepsake than a fine piece of art. -
Here is a link to Chuck's stropping tutorial that @JacquesCousteau referred to. Block Stropping You might find a block stropped with a hook would be a better fit than the way the plans show. Will be easier to work with than having the line & block tied to the gaff.
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Those deadeyes look really good. Did you add any finishing?
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I don’t like to paint, so I look for different woods for contrast. I don’t have tools for milling beyond what I can do with my Proxxon FET. I have a laser for detail work. I go to Ocooch Hardwoods for exotic sheets . I like Rockler and Woodcraft for veneer. I’ll post some samples later of different colors I have used.
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Fractal vise on kickstarter
Gregory replied to DavidG's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I just figured out this device is not available for purchase yet. You who are interested might offer your suggestions to make it better. -
FWIW You can download the instructions for Cheerful at the Syren site which will provide a lot of rigging detail. Glenn's Cheerful logs is a great go-to for rigging also.
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If I were building the model I would combine information from the AOTS book and the movie replicas. This also sounds like the kind of information a competent builder would do the research for. PS The discussion you linked to above should be as good as it gets here at MSW.
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Mini Table Saw recommendations
Gregory replied to captainscott's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
In my opinion it's very easy to set up. Just takes seconds to adjust the fence. Takes a few minutes to change blades- 10-15 max. I've never had a big project like strip cutting that it didn't do well. You will want to source some blades besides the Proxxon. Now, I'm talking about the FET.. I don't see the smaller KS 115 being a good choice for ship modeling.
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