Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Great metal work.. I have to confess is is not my thing.. -
There is an album in the MSW gallery with pictures of the original model that the kit is based on. Those fillers do not match anything on the original model or the kit as designed. The edges of the transom extend out past the bulkheads.
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I think your best go-to would be the build by JLong. A lot of stern detail shown here: Your model looks like the original builder decided a different approach than what the plans called for. To get it right you may have to tear some of that out to do it right. Do your plans include the detail like this, from the log I pointed to above?
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deck planking options
Gregory replied to manning16's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I think boxwood would give a nice contrast . The holly is too bright for my taste. Do a little testing and see what you like best. -
I personally find them distracting. But I respect anyone's choice to build their model as they see fit.
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Mamoli does seem to take artistic license with some details but they are not alone. The Campbell drawing above shows the fore lower deadeyes below the cap rail while the contemporary drawing shows them both above. This 1851 painting shows the fore deadeyes below the cap rail.
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FWIW, here are the chain plates in the Campbell drawings. I feel Campbell can be taken on good authority. I think the kit provided parts really compromise the quality of your build. The look above could be achieved with some annealed steel wire. My best guess would be 22 gauge. This little snip from the Speedwell plans by Chuck show how simple they could be. PS Here is a drawing I found from a Museum in San Francisco
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I think the blocks could use a different material. They have a transparent look.
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Just to add a bit more to what Chuck is saying. Here is a model from the Science Museum. It is the model referenced in Petersson's Rigging Fore & Aft craft. I think the lighter rope throughout would be an interesting departure from most of what we see now.
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The plywood I last used was this stuff from Amazon. I don't know if it is available to you in the UK, but it is very good quality. I used it for the bulkheads on my Rattlesnake. I checked my notes and I'm actually using 75% power at 5mm/s. I do know it took a lot more to cut typical plywood from stores like Home Depot here in the US. Your eBay store really looks nice.
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I can certainly appreciate the price limitations. Do you have air asist? It makes a big difference in cutting power. Multiple passes should not make the kerf larger. I can cut 5mm plywood in one pass with speed at 5mm/second and about 90% power.
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I'm using an Xtool D1 Pro 20W with Lightburn software. Ventilation is a must with a laser. If I were buying today I would get one of the Xtool S1 machines. Probably a 20W. If you skim through my Resolution and Rattlesnake builds you can see how I have put it to use.
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Curious where you are getting that information. I don't see where rope was ever used for chains (chain plates). I don't have any other reference at hand, but this is from Mondfeld. It does look like they would have consisted of two or more parts. What I see in your kit is not uncommon in kits.
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Looking forward to seeing what you do with this kit, Glenn.
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Revell ?
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Very interesting machine that appears to work very well. People should click on the video. Video here..
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Does that resemble Russell Crowe, or is it just my imagination? The chin looks right on.
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Full size rope, synthetic or otherwise, tends to unravel when cut. I experimented with baking my rope, and I feel it added a stiffness I don't care for. I may not have got the formula just right.
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How small? This 60wt thread is about the smallest I've found that's still easy to work with.
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Do you have any pear? If not, I could experiment with some of my scrap and see how it looks? Cherry might also be a good candidate.
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Do I get a solve for that? 😁
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Maybe a place like this. Weavers's Leather Supply I don't see anything particularly expensive though. Keeping it sharp may just be an issue of maintenance. If you want to spend more, you could check out a surgical supply place. What do you mean by ' Micro ' ? A good micro awl could be a sewing machine needle fixed in a wood handle. It would probably stay sharp for a long time, while being cheap and easy to replace.
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Martindale blades for Byrnes saw...
Gregory replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks -
Martindale blades for Byrnes saw...
Gregory replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Curious about this. Did you order via the Malco web site? Home - Malco Saw Company How did Martindale enter the picture? -
Great! The flags are especially well done. I will be referencing them..
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