Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Lavery says the following about breeching and tackles.. There are tables in various references, giving rope and block sizes. Someone else may provide more detailed information. PS I see post #12 in this thread has a table of rope sizes.
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It's a curiosity. I wouldn't have the time to slog through it..
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- Book
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No good reason to upload it here, since it is free to download at the link provided..
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Your photo appears to be from the CAF kit of Granado Creating such a jig for a particular build, that didn't include the plans for a jig, would be as much an endeavor as the model itself.
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Deck planking plans
Gregory replied to KingDavid's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Interesting that the plans above show a sort of " anchor stock " shape in some of the planks. .. I have never seen that in deck planking before.. -
Who's going to call you on this if you get it wrong? 😁
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- sloop of war
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Do tell..
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Nailing and covering up the hole, will never solve the problems of trying to lay a straight plank on a curved surface
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Scroll down for a couple of great videos by Chuck.
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Once you have the vertical bend, the lateral bend is usually easy to do in place with pressure.. At least that has been my experience.. Glenn might have other advice.
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I'm really sold on Bob Smith also. I recently gave this a try: ...And I really like it
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I think CA has got a bad rep because people think of bad experiences with really thin stuff that goes everywhere. Using a medium or thick CA in small amounts, in the right place, is as good as using nails. Making sure the plank is the shape you want before you glue it down is another important consideration.. I also like the idea of partial filling to thicken the bulkheads to help with providing a larger surface. Some people frown on double planking, but really, what's the difference in an extra layer of planks for smoothing and fairing or a lot more bulkheads or frames that provide a more continuous surface?
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Don't use pins/nails.😁 I would look at some of the Winchelsea builds, like Chuck's: And Glenn Barlow's They go into a lot of detail about how they plan and execute the planking. I believe they both use CA glue for planking. Tapering, edge bending and spiling will be important. You might be at a disadvantage with the relatively fewer bulkheads, unless you do some filling. Fairing will also be important.
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Model Expo has these plans. Model Shipways CHARLES MORGAN PLANS Can't tell how closely they will match your model, but they should be a good place to start. They may add detail that your model didn't have.
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I didn't get that impression at all. And I hope Chris doesn't get the impression I feel his instructions are lacking. I was just trying to make sure you did not feel your lack of knowledge about the shaping of the stem, other than what was provided in the kit was something to feel worried about. There are details about these ships that 99% of kit builders will never be aware of.
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I suspect a good reason, is that it is not mentioned in the otherwise comprehensive instruction manual.. Great job, so far Doug. It says a lot for Chris and Vanguard that people relatively new to the hobby can have such good results. These kits are so much better than anything else out there, and few this side of Syren will mention tapering the stem...
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You would think there would be some below deck pictures.. Problems in that area?
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I found this on Amazon US https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Ships-Their-History-Model/dp/0850590531 Perhaps someone could purchase and forward to you.
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If you can get permission, could you do a screen shot and snip? Image not showing for me.. I'm a displaced Texan, and have visited BB35 many times.....My grandfather served aboard her back when..
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Common card stock is also about .01 I find it behaves a lot like wood.. How would you mill your boxwood thinner than .01?
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That depends on your skill level with regard to scratch building. There is a lot of information here: The 32 Gun Frigate Winchelsea (1764) You can look at the illustrations and ask yourself " Can I make that ? " The store is closed right now so the prices are not available. If you are planning on milling your own wood strips you will need a good small table saw such as the Byrnes Saw.. An alternative will be to buy the timbering set from Modeler's Sawmill As well as this forum with all the build logs. Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
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- winchelsea
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The laser cuts are very accurate. They are a perfect clone of the file/drawing used to make the cut. There is a clue in there somewhere.😁
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I had some trouble in that area also with my laser cut bulkheads that I made symmetrical before cutting. I will be doing some filling to smooth things out. Unfortunately you won't have that luxury with single planking. You may have to build up or shave off the the bulkheads to make things fair.
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Thanks for all the comments. I think more glass will make for a nice design. I will be kicking the details around shortly.
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I appreciate your thoughts and safety concerns, but my goal is to build a decorative piece, and I have seen many examples of contemporary models with glass(?) or simulated panes such as this : Or maybe like Winchelsea. One more..
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