Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I apologize if I came across as being critical.. You have a great build going that I am following. I was just offering an observation. -
FWIW, The stack on that binnacle does not seem to be documented anywhere, nor does it appear on any contemporary models that I am aware of. What we have seen are vent holes in the side of the cabinet.. A bit of discussion here.
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John McKay's AOTS shows 12. Goodwin also shows 12 on Blandford.
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DEVICE TO FINISH ROPE ENDS TO HANG ON BITTS AND BELAY PINS
Gregory replied to Peter6172's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
While I agree it's a nice jig, something with variable spacing/size would be more useful.. -
Most of the wood in those houses and objects is not on the order of .5 - 1.5mm thick
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If you want to build it, I think $75 would be a fair offer. You might mention the the wood is probably dry and brittle and may need to be replaced to be able to build the kit.
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Many a good model has been built with just the kit parts. No one, me included, didn't know any better. Use the kit parts as a starting place and refine what you can.. Please don't cancel the parade. The rain was just a pop-up thunderstorm..
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Hey Dave, at the risk of raining on your parade: This simplified drawing from Mondfeld shows a basic anchor design for the 18th-19th century. Note the two halves of the stock have a gap when viewed from above. This design seems to be prevalent in multiple sources that I have. Here is a drawing from 1797 found in Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War
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The basswood that comes in the kit should work.. There should be a little extra square stock. or use scrap sheet stock from the laser sheets. You might experiment with some dye or stain to get it looking the way you want.
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Those are some generic balusters found in a lot of kits. How do the dimensions match up with the 'scaled' drawings on the plans? You could use some square stock to make something like Ian's pic, without a lot of trouble. I think the Mamoli parts are a fair compromise. Making every detail look like the real thing sort of negates the purpose of building a kit. It's not a realistic goal. If you run short of those balusters, I'm sure I have a few of those in my stash I would be happy to share..
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I love the color of your AYC, prticularly in the 2nd shot.. I have saved that one and it is my standard now.. If my work doesn't look close to that-tear it off and start over..😁 I hope the lighting doesn't change it much.. Of course it may darken some with age, but you are achieving an exceptional finish. Have I misread somewhere that you are using boxwood, and not AYC?
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Something that makes you go " Oh wow " when you are copying the plans and building your own. A little redesign after running into issues with the backbone ver1.0. I will be updating my log soon. The scrap pile is growing
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Here is a chart that will print out to scale. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/Suren Ultra Scale Rope Size chart.pdf
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P.S In the future, you might consider not following through with a butt joint when it involves a very short piece of blank.
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- Harvey
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Without anything else to go on, you lost your symmetry somewhere.. So, you lost your mirror image.. This has happened to me before. Could be a flaw in the kit design.. Something to keep in mind next build.. I don't think it is a big detractor in an otherwise good build so far..
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- Harvey
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let me see what I can see
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Do you have a close-up of this area. I would like to see if I can sort out your mirroring problem..
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I have three different Dremel tools. This one is easy to hold and has very low torque.. It usually stops before doing damage.. Dremel 2050 With all Dremel's I would recommend the three jawed chuck.. Keyless Chuck
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It looks like a beveling tool rather than tapering, and would work with very small bites. I see the angle of the blade ( flat ) as a design shortcoming.
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I have had no trouble getting it at Amazon..
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You might try some Fiebing's leather dye. I have used their Burgundy for a reddish look on some boxwood blocks. It can be lightened by wiping quickly after application, with alcohol..
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Bottom paint America 1851.
Gregory replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
According to the book " The Low Black Schooner " by John Rousmaniere, she was launched with copper.. -
Bottom paint America 1851.
Gregory replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I believe she was coppered. -
Practice, practice practice!
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What does...
Gregory replied to Gregory's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I thought it might mean something like that, but I see topics that are days and weeks old that haven't changed since my last visit..
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