Gregory

On 10/26/2021 at 8:55 AM, Rik Thistle said:

After reading this thread I discovered my (2016) Panasonic DX80 had a Firmware update available that added focus stacking. The update means the camera can take a very short 4K movie and (in-camera) stack the frames together.

After reading your post,  I took a closer look at a Panasonic FZ80 I had my sights on for a camera upgrade.  Turns out it has 'focus stacking' and calls it 'post focus'..

It has two different modes that I haven't fully explored, plus I have a lot to learn about optimizing all the features on this camera, but for now, I'm pretty much going with the automatic basic settings..

Anyway, here is my first experiment in ' focus stacking ..

This is a shot using the auto-focus feature of the camera.. I think the 2nd gun from the front was what the camera focused on.

Here is a shot using the " post focus " feature. 

Rick mentioned it takes a ' short movie'.  One second of 30 frames to be exact, where it shifts the focus from front to back, then merges them into one image.  Processing only takes a few seconds.

I have a lot to learn about using the camera, but this feature shows some promise for taking better pictures of model ships.

12 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Also does CA go brittle over time

Cured CA is plastic, so it could get brittle under the same conditions any plastic would.  Sunlight would probably be the biggest influence..

Next up, would be extreme temperature.

5 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

 what you mean by brass collet?

These come from Amazon.

5 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Seems like twisting it off entirely is a good possibility.

 Happened more than once when I was  refining the process..

I used a thin grinding disk to rough up the inside edges.  I use high RPM and move the piece slowly..

I realize there is more at risk when using limited kit parts, but I make my own carriages, so it's no big deal to make a new one if I break one. 

There is some comprehensive information about Hahn and his models here:

Harold Hahn - The man and his models

Great review!

At that scale, try some black tissue paper..

I believe James uses Vallejo's Liquid Gold, mixed with a few drops of isopropyl to allow it to flow easily. 

He has mentioned it in his logs..

Has your wood darkened, or is that just the lighting..  It really looks good..

Just a quick tip before moving on; consider laying the piece ( particularly thin pieces )  to be sanded on a flat surface  rather than trying to hold it..

If this is hard to visualize I will try to post pic or video later..

Impressive!  The look like they are carved..

Looks like a great project to cut your scratch building teeth on.  Not too ambitious so as to be discouraging..

Do you think these would lend themselves to some lamination like you did with the hair brackets?

I don't want to clutter up your build log unnecessarily,  but having had a lot of trial and error laser cutting and finishing my own parts, I have the scrap bin to prove it..  I might have a tip or two in this regard. 

Let me know if I can help, or I can start a new topic.

Do you have some snips of the plans you are working from?  Just the general arrangement..

Looking forward to following your progress..

I can't wait to see how Chuck tackles the head rails.  I'm sure it will be something to carry forward with any future build.

I've used sanding sticks to round off square axles  but I came up with something that works better for me.

I use a brass collet in a rotary tool.

Smooth and perfectly round.

50 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Should I design a 10....or settle for a quick 4 in results.

 

While I don't foresee tackling the Winnie, I hope you keep coming with the 10s..  They are a great resource to enhance any kit or scratch build.

With some time to spare, you might hold out for the New kit from Amati..

Don't forget the Medway Longboat

There are several Master Korabel kits with pre-cut planks..

Another nice one is the Schooner Polotsk  seen in this log:

Here are some planking videos that demonstrate the edge bending method that allows the planks to lie flat around the bow.

Have you looked at the NRG's carving project?

11 minutes ago, Stevinne said:

This is the way I've always done it.

This works, but can be a challenge to look nice and clean..  Not that this shouldn't always be your goal.

Having a rabbet at least at the stem,  gives you a little wiggle room for shaping the ends of the planks and having a nice clean look and fit.

The Rabbet ( rebate ) is a groove that the planks fit into at the Stem and along the keel.

Here is Glbarlow's Cheerful..  The ends of the planks butt into the rabbet at the stem.

The garboard plank sits in the rabbet along the keel.

In modeling it can be simulated in a couple of different ways ..  It isn't always necessary to cut it..

In this topic, I showed an example of how a thin strip down the center of the keel and stem simulates the rabbet when separate  keel and stem pieces are added to the backbone in a plank-on-bulkhead model..

 There are probably hundreds if not thousands of examples in the build logs..

Just search for " rabbet " ..

Here is a sample of the Ships In Scale index.

There is also a powerful search tool that will search through all the issues to find what you are looking for..

PS

Here is some nice work by   Moreplovac on his Brigantine Phoenix at 1:72 ..

You can skim through the log for more detail..