Gregory

2 hours ago, Srenner said:

@Jackson7 yes i agree with you... there was no iron on the chain plates so if i was making this again i would use rope for all the deadeye chain plates... they look much better than the kit supplied ones.

Curious where you are getting that information.

Quote

The lower deadeyes (construction of deadeyes is described in the chapter BLOCKS AND ROPES) are enclosed by a metal strap,

which is held in turn by the chain or chain plate. The bottom end of each chain or chain plate is fixed to the hull with strong pins.

I don't see where rope was ever used for chains (chain plates).  I don't have any other reference at hand, but this is from Mondfeld.

It does look like they would have consisted of two or more parts.  What I see in your kit is not uncommon in kits.  

3 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Sign me up for the first kit with the CNC block option.  Years ago I would frequently check the Jotika website waiting for the completed prototype and kit ready to sell. Never understood why they left it on the site unfinished (it’s still there). No doubt I’m better off having the Vanguard version anyway.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with this kit, Glenn. 

Revell ?

On 7/27/2025 at 6:51 PM, Y.T. said:

I have this machine to make it:

Very interesting machine that appears to work very well.  People should click on the video.

Video here..

5 hours ago, chris watton said:

I had my final STL file for one of the two Aubrey figures.

Does that resemble Russell Crowe, or is it just my imagination?

The chin looks right on.

53 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

When using polyester thread, the scale rope made can have a tendency to unravel when cut. 

Full size rope, synthetic or otherwise, tends to unravel when cut.

I experimented with baking my rope, and I feel it added a stiffness I don't care for.  I may not have got the formula just right.

On 7/15/2025 at 8:50 PM, JLong said:

It works just fine, but I wish I could find something smaller.

How small?

This 60wt thread is about the smallest I've found that's still easy to work with.

Do you have any pear?

If not, I could experiment with some of my scrap and see how it looks?  Cherry might also be a good candidate.

Do I get a solve for that? 😁

Maybe a place like this.

Weavers's Leather Supply

I don't see anything particularly expensive though.

Keeping it sharp may just be an issue of maintenance.

If you want to spend more, you could check out a surgical supply place.

What do you mean by ' Micro ' ?

A good micro awl could be a sewing machine needle fixed in a wood handle.  It would probably stay sharp for a long time, while being cheap and easy to replace.

Thanks

Curious about this.

Did you order via the Malco web site?

Home - Malco Saw Company

How did Martindale enter the picture?

Great!  The flags are especially well done.  I will be referencing them..

I'm really liking the look of the muslin sails.  I will have to try that.

Good info from @wefalck. 

Laser is not your best option, if at all, for detailed carving.

I think a laser would be great for your miniature work.

Browse through my Rattlesnake and Resolution builds to see how I have put a laser to use.

To show you can make some fairly small precision parts, here is a link that shows how I made some fiddle blocks.

I would highly recommend LIghtBurn for driving the laser.

I have an older 20W Xtool  that serves me well but If I were buying today I would go with the xTool S1 20W.

Ventilation is a primary concern and with the Xtool all you need is a vent hose to get the smoke and fumes outside.

Let me know if you have other questions you think I might answer.

9 minutes ago, Venti said:

Hey! A little late but thought I could suggest a phone app that counts objects in a picture. I've seen quite a few different ones like CountThings or CountThis. I haven't looked into them at all but could be a good alternative to manually counting. 

How does it deal with two or more objects touching each other?  If you have to separate them, you might as well go ahead and count them.😁

While interesting, you are showing The Process of Making Wire Ropes.

It is not actually a Ropewalk.  I'm not sure if it has a specific name other than a wire rope making machine/apparatus.

I apologize for the pedantry.

If they are requiring the ID,  I don't know how you can get around that.

However, the foremast provided in the kit would have been a wood dowel that you would refine based on the plans, so it should be fairly easy to aquire one from another source such as Amazon or a hobby shop.

Very nice work!

3 minutes ago, Srenner said:

Why is the order of the preventer and stay reversed ? 

I'm not sure why it would matter.. The preventer stay is just a back up, however , Petersson may have got it wrong, or the model of Melampus  may be wrong.

If it matters, I would go with Lees.

For a second there Greg, I thought you looked at my jig and made a drawing of it..😁

I must have seen yours at some point and used the design.

P.S.

Here is the link I couldn't post earlier.

Many use a jig of some sort.  Often it is a stiff wire between the deadeyes.

I can’t post a link right now, but if you look at #66 in my Resolution log, you will see the jig I used.

If the construction isn’t apparent, I will try to clarify later.

Here are a couple of build logs.

They are pretty comprehensive showing how the model goes together.

Barbara,

I am curious about several topics you have started with questions regarding various ships and modeling.  You have received several replies but you never reply back with regard to the help you receive.

Have you been able to benefit from the help you have received?

There was /is a banner at the Malco site saying only the ownership had changed.  All the employees and infrastructure remain the same.

I use their blades with my Proxxon FET and have never had a problem.