Gregory

Any dying option you use may be subject to changing over time, and you won't know how long until it happens..

Have you looked at BenD's rope?

29 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

 From the drawings, it is not going to result in anything that resembles a real ship.

That's never stopped anyone before..😄

3 hours ago, paul carruthers said:

I’m not going to paint the hull or copper it.

I really like that decision.. Your planking looks like a fine piece of furniture..  Would be a shame to paint it.

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but didn't find what I thought I might have..

On 1/3/2022 at 7:45 PM, Keith Black said:

Ray, steering wheel is incorrect

Keith, I came across this when browsing through the drawings at Wiki Commons, and thought I remembered someone commenting in this regard.

Whoever drew this didn't get the word..😁

Link to Wiki.

The counter looks like an excellent preview of your usual planking prowess..

It's almost a pity the that the fancy stuff will hide your fine work in that area..

I will look in my stuff and get back to you later...

The Master Korabel boats are similar to the Falkonet, and you can find them at our sponsor Crafty Sailor.

They look great!  Those would work well for any 1:64 cutter..    

44 minutes ago, Gahm said:

Beautiful capstan, Patrick!

I 2nd that!

9 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

The waterway actually guides any small amounts of water along the deck and the scuppers run through the waterway at deck level and take the water outboard.

here is a sketch from AOTS Royal Caroline that illustrates it rather well.

4 hours ago, Dr Syn said:

I see everywhere that the complete mast with all the tops,tressles and upper masts are assembled before fitting shrouds.

That is probably because many kit plans and instructions often present it that way.

If you dig a little deeper, you will find many build logs where that is not the case.

That stern looks a lot like one of the Bounty replicas..

The plan I used was to illustrate how the rudder post enters the transom and determine the position of the tiller.

Not necessarily  how you plan to build Sophie.

Your plan doesn't show where the rudder post enters the counter.. That would determine where the tiller would lie.

12 hours ago, TBlack said:

Furthermore, in other ships with a wheel, regardless of where it was situated, had to deal with the same mechanics and space, right?

Well, no.. All ships with a wheel did not have the same amount of space below decks to accommodate tiller mechanics, but it would have  been adequate for the tiller as designed.

Where does your rudder enter the transom?

What kind of space do you have at that point for the swing of the tiller?

The cables would do that if space permitted, however you have to consider how far up into the boat the rudder post extends in your ship as she sits.

Is there enough lateral room for the tiller to swing below the cabin?

Any details about the results?

Did Aubrey talk about the tiller and accompanying rigging that would have complemented  a wheel?

Your earlier drawings would put the tiller  and cabling somewhere in the great cabin...

Well, Tom says he wants to build according to the book, so I suspect Sophie will have a wheel..😀

Definitely Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Monfeld..

Considering they are free, any number of the instruction books available at ModelExpo would be my 2nd choice..

Particularly the one's by Chuck Passaro..  They are like tutorials that would apply to any number of ships besides the kit they

are written for.

A good example is the US Brig Syren

Look down the page for the 20 part instructions.

You will find similar if not as detailed, instructions for all Model Shipways kits..

They are not just instructions for the kit in question, they provide a lot of basic kit building and rigging information.

Very nice look of the rudder!

3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

Now getting ready for the part which has given me frets and the area I particularly struggled on the Sultana…the Pintles and Gudgeons!

You may have it finished by the time you read this, but have you considered faking the Pintles and Gudgeons?

The method is to pin the rudder to the stern post, then use card or tape to simulate the straps..

One of my pins is not as well hidden as it should be..  Do you see it?

202mm x 64mm = 12,928 = 508.97638 inches = 42.4 feet, which sounds realistic for a beam of 30 feet..

1 hour ago, Srodbro said:

Just a quick follow up and I’ll recede into the background:

 

The original main yard that Aubrey was not satisfied with was described thus:

Jack went to the rail and looked sharply at the sea running by, the long curve as it rose after the hollow under the lee-bow: he grunted and returned to his staring at the mainyard, a piece of wood rather more than thirty feet long and tapering from some seven inches in the slings, the middle part, to three at the yard-arms, the extremities.

What was the reason given for his dissatisfaction?

20 hours ago, Rgpracer said:

I don't have a clue how to figure scale or what manufacturer it is.

For future reference, if you know the measurements for the full size ship, you can divide that by the same dimension of the model and get an approximation..

Or Divide the full size dimension by the scale and see what you get.

A length I see for Victory is 186 feet on the gun deck..  Divide by 98 and you get 1.897  feet or about 22.7 inches.

So if your victory model is close to 23 inches on the gun deck, I would consider it close to 1:98..

Close enough that it is unlikely to be another common scale, such as 1:72 or 

19 hours ago, Charter33 said:

I'd start by soaking the  strip for about 5 minutes and see how that goes.

The idea is to apply a heat source to the wet plank.

Water is a better transferrer of heat than air. 

Not knowing how your steamer works, a small iron is probably better..

I believe a couple of our members use this or something similar

.Steamfast SF-717 Mini Steam Iron