Gregory

5 hours ago, Laggard said:

I’m also going to try to find a supplier for metal hooks as there is no way I have the dexterity to make them myself.  

12 hours ago, Gregory said:

Crafty Sailor Hooks

I provided this information in the post above.

I also imagine you didn't look at the information I provided about the Medway long boat, as it has  very detailed photos of  blocks stropped with hooks.

You didn't see  any help in my post above?

The rigging on that boat will be a lot like the Medway Longboat.

In the post above Chuck explains making the bands from tape instead of metal.  I make similar bands from black cardstock.

If you go further in that log, you will see the blocks are stropped and hooks added.

The rigging on the longboat would have been easy to break down, and the blocks would not have been permanently attached to the mast.

Follow that log and you can't go wrong.  If you are not comfortable making the hooks,  I have found these to be pretty good, after being blackened..

Crafty Sailor Hooks

Note: They come in several sizes.

The AOTS for Bellona said she shipped out with 48 tons of coal, wood and candles..

Perhaps the Winchelsea would have had half that..   I don't think the candles would have been a big part of that..

Without actual section stations  other than the one provided. your only option would be to invent them yourself.

Some of your top drawings appear to be missing also.

15 hours ago, Laggard said:

This is ridiculous.  I’ve read every pdf here and watched every video on how to seize a block.  Some of them show the finished product:  a block with a line attached to it.  Not one shows how to then attach this line to the band on the mast.  One seemingly helpful article shows how to do it, but with a hook on the end of the line. 
 

I need to somehow get past this to move forward.  

Just to make sure you are getting good info, it would help to have more information about the model and the purpose of the block.

If the plans do not show how to set up the block, there may be other missing or incorrect information.

Very nice work so far..  FA Is one of my favorite kits, and on my to-do list..

I'm a big fan of un-painted wood, so I look forward to seeing how much bare wood you end up with.

Apparently this is one of those modeling conventions that has a life of it's own..

To me, it's one of those things that detracts from an otherwise nice model..  It looks like someone started a basket and didn't finish it.

With apple wood, you have to work with an orchard to get prunings or a culled tree..  still may not be a practical option for you..

30 minutes ago, TBlack said:

You can get a copy for $188.

If you Google the title, you can get it for at least half that..

Here is one at Abe Books for $95 shipped..

If you don't have to hold a book in your hand, here is a free E-book ..   The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, It is apparently in the public domain.

There is also a free  "Steels Art of Rigging"  in the NRG resources..

I know how I will be making most of my lashings from now on..  

How I used to make them is embarrassing..

One more thought..

I thought I read somewhere that NZ has lots of apples..   If you can get your hands on some good apple wood, it is excellent for modeling.

Of course, it would also depend on your milling capabilities.

1 hour ago, PRS said:

Beautiful picture thanks. 

 

W#onder how many watches or coins were dropped out those holes?

Probably no more than the average storm drain around the world..😁

( Alan, just saw your comments.   Thanks for the additional input. )

Here is a quick quote from Lees regarding some of the belaying points in question..

Page 97 of my copy regarding topgallant bowlines and bowline bridals.

After 1773 ( Melumpus ) they were still belayed to the fore top, but blocks that were used previously are omitted.

So that is the change/improvement that would have been made since 1750 ( Royal Caroline ).

As to the question of whether lines were belayed at the tops, this reference says they were, and there was no change in that regard between 1750 and 1785.

19 minutes ago, davyboy said:

I can't make any comments at the moment as I'm currently on holiday thus having no access to my literature. However as you appear to be a fount of knowledge perhaps you can enlighten us as to what you know or think you know. Tschuss.

The information I provided from Petersson  was an effort to answer a question.  There was no claim of reliability, just a possibility.

However, a reply from Delf appears to add some credibility to the information.

3 hours ago, DelF said:

Interestingly, Lees does have several of the lines Joshua mentions terminating in the tops. For example the topgallant lift "was taken to the lower top where it was made fast to a deadeye or cleat". Similarly with the cluelines, although he doesn't specify how they were made fast. Another option, cited in The Fully Framed Model Vol IV by David Antscherl, was for lines to belay on shroud cleats in the lower tops. 

Which I have added to my fount of knowledge..

I will look forward to your input when you return from holiday and can check your references...

What improvements do you think might be evident with regard to the original question regarding belaying points?

Lees often quotes practices that didn't change much over periods of 35 years and more.

Petersson does show some belaying on the tops.

He shows some pins on the rail at the rear of the top and some cleats on the shrouds.

Of course, Petersson is looking at a model, so there is no confirmation this was actual practice..

FWIW, the wood of the model in your image is/was probably boxwood..  The color comes from 200+ years of aging..

An idea I had for covering exposed plywood edges was to use strips of veneer.

Not sure what resources you have in NZ, but here in the US I would be looking in a woodworking store for something like this:

18 minutes ago, PRS said:

Not sure how they are supposed to look

Here is a drawing from Anatomy of The Ship - Royal Caroline..

It might be similar, and just angled into the deck..

Earlier you said:

On 8/15/2021 at 5:42 PM, Phil Babb said:

I can find nothing of any help 

The NMM plans and the Alert book  is all I would have recommended.

Perhaps when you have some photos, you can point out the problem you are having.

Excellent!  That would  serve as final planking on any ship, with very little left to do in the way of finishing..

What is the nature of your project?  Plank on frame ?  Plank on bulkhead ?

Do you have any plans at all?

You say CNC..  Is this a laser?

2 minutes ago, allanyed said:

I have never heard of installing running rigging before the standing rigging  but it does sound interesting.    

Not all of it, of course. and it would vary depending on the rig.

I was thinking more about the cutter rig with the boom and gaff..  There are several lines that are easier set up  but not tied off, before setting up all the standing rigging..  On a two or three mast ship it gets more complicated..

Something I learned from you and Chuck is to set up as much of the  running rigging as you can ( up to a point without tying off ) before permanently setting up the shrouds and stays.