Gregory
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Gregory got a reaction from zappto in Yacht Mary by Mike Dowling - Mamoli
At the risk of hijacking your thread ( please let me know and I will delete ), I am working on a Mary, and in the rigging stage. I didn't document
well enough for a log, but I hope to present in the Gallery soon.
I was using veneer for the 2nd planking and did some spiling at the bow. I thought I achieved a pretty good effect for my first attempt at this,
though it is a little rough in spots.
It takes some wide stock to do this. Up to three times the width of the plank, not to mention the waste from practicing.
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Gregory got a reaction from Mike Dowling in Yacht Mary by Mike Dowling - Mamoli
At the risk of hijacking your thread ( please let me know and I will delete ), I am working on a Mary, and in the rigging stage. I didn't document
well enough for a log, but I hope to present in the Gallery soon.
I was using veneer for the 2nd planking and did some spiling at the bow. I thought I achieved a pretty good effect for my first attempt at this,
though it is a little rough in spots.
It takes some wide stock to do this. Up to three times the width of the plank, not to mention the waste from practicing.
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Gregory got a reaction from Cathead in Yacht Mary by Mike Dowling - Mamoli
At the risk of hijacking your thread ( please let me know and I will delete ), I am working on a Mary, and in the rigging stage. I didn't document
well enough for a log, but I hope to present in the Gallery soon.
I was using veneer for the 2nd planking and did some spiling at the bow. I thought I achieved a pretty good effect for my first attempt at this,
though it is a little rough in spots.
It takes some wide stock to do this. Up to three times the width of the plank, not to mention the waste from practicing.
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Gregory got a reaction from BobG in Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer
David, I see where I totally missed the boat on that, assuming it was a square sail ...
Here is what Mondfeld shows.
Your examples look like a flying configuration to me. I don't see going aloft to set those sails..
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Gregory got a reaction from Srodbro in Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer
David, I see where I totally missed the boat on that, assuming it was a square sail ...
Here is what Mondfeld shows.
Your examples look like a flying configuration to me. I don't see going aloft to set those sails..
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Gregory got a reaction from John Allen in Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer
David, I see where I totally missed the boat on that, assuming it was a square sail ...
Here is what Mondfeld shows.
Your examples look like a flying configuration to me. I don't see going aloft to set those sails..
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Gregory got a reaction from mtaylor in Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer
It looks to me like it is in fact a topsail yard, with some kind of attempt at perspective in the drawing.
I think you would be hard pressed to find any kind of rigging plan that included a yard/boom as drawn..
Here is a link to what appears to be the same model, which sports a topsail, and a top gallant.
Not a lot of detail but, using standard practice should get you by..
http://www.pielcraftsmen.com/ordimages/salemodels.htm
P.S.
There are reasons to be critical of some of the details in Petersson's Fore & Aft rigging book,
however this over-all view of a similar rig, might give a basic idea of a rigging plan.
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Gregory reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in Knots
I’m recommending the Constrictor knot too, it’s the perfect model building knot for tying around masts . But On smaller scale models I recommend the simple overhand knot for all the rest of the knots where a line terminates somewhere in the rig and the reason is it’s the least bulky knot. Real knots on small scale models are too bulky, they can’t be drawn down tight enough to shrink to a scale size. This problem intensifies the smaller you go.
A case in point is the Clove Hitch used on ratlins. On smaller models the rows and rows of clove-hitches on the shrouds give them a too bulky look, the knots are big round bulges sometimes taking up a significant percentage of the space between ratlines. They are technically correct but they can’t be tied in scale below a certain size.
On larger scale models you SHOULD use actual Bowlins Fisherman’s Bends Sheet Bends, etc since they’d be big enough to see.
The trouble with the Overhand knot is that it’s so simple it won’t hold without a drop of glue. When I tie one I leave the tail long and clip a clothespin on this loose end to keep weight on it then I put a drop of white glue on the knot. Trim it flush afterwords when dry and the resulting tiny bump is a comfortably realistic representation.
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Gregory got a reaction from Duanelaker in America by gsdpic - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1/48 scale
Nice work..
The design is typical of the various plans I have seen. I have seen numerous contemporary paintings, with insufficient detail to determine how accurate the design is.
Here is a photo from 1940. I suppose it is the result of modifications after 1851.
FWIW, Here is an image of the actual stern decoration that now resides in the New York Yacht Club
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Gregory reacted to Heronguy in Model Shipway Ratline tool
Possibly true but I'm going to finish up and see if I like the results of one approach vs the other. I would imagine anyone who has successfully done the rattling of a model will not find a use for the Ratliner - however those of us who are starting out, those who find the ergonomics of the process OnShip quite tiring, or those who have had trouble rattling their models OnShip for other reasons (maybe a bit clumsy like me?) may find the device a help.
I still haven't finished my starboard shrouds so it'll be a while 'til I can mount them and finish my trial.
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Gregory got a reaction from Canute in Model Shipway Ratline tool
One way to address this, would be to make the shrouds before setting up the deadeyes on the channels.
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Gregory got a reaction from mtaylor in Model Shipway Ratline tool
One way to address this, would be to make the shrouds before setting up the deadeyes on the channels.
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Gregory got a reaction from Canute in Rigging for Dummies
Keep in mind, you don't really have to know why/how about every line on a ship. As the number of masts and sails increase, you have
the same basic principles repeated over and over.
Just pick a mast and a type of sail; main, top, stay, spanker, etc., and the basic principles, with a few exceptions will always apply.
This is not to say there won't be variations among countries and periods, but a 'lift' , a 'brace' a 'shroud' or whatever, won't really change that much,
because the work to be accomplished will be the same.
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Gregory got a reaction from RichardG in Rigging for Dummies
Keep in mind, you don't really have to know why/how about every line on a ship. As the number of masts and sails increase, you have
the same basic principles repeated over and over.
Just pick a mast and a type of sail; main, top, stay, spanker, etc., and the basic principles, with a few exceptions will always apply.
This is not to say there won't be variations among countries and periods, but a 'lift' , a 'brace' a 'shroud' or whatever, won't really change that much,
because the work to be accomplished will be the same.
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Gregory got a reaction from michael mott in Serv-O-Matic as art?
Hope you get it to market before it shows up on eBay as the Peking Rope Dragon...
It looks like it would be a nice upgrade from my home made version...
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Gregory got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Kits with fewer Cast Metal parts.
Detailed wood parts would really drive up the cost of a kit.
I have looked at a lot of kits over the years, and I don't recall any kit, at any price,
that included detailed wood parts.
The closest thing that I am aware of, are the kits that Chuck sells at his store. Syren Ship Model Company
He has items such as this Windlass which is part of the ' Cheerful ' package, but would not be out of place on a lot of ships at the same scale.
There are tons of ideas on this Forum for fabricating your own parts.
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Gregory got a reaction from mtaylor in Kits with fewer Cast Metal parts.
Detailed wood parts would really drive up the cost of a kit.
I have looked at a lot of kits over the years, and I don't recall any kit, at any price,
that included detailed wood parts.
The closest thing that I am aware of, are the kits that Chuck sells at his store. Syren Ship Model Company
He has items such as this Windlass which is part of the ' Cheerful ' package, but would not be out of place on a lot of ships at the same scale.
There are tons of ideas on this Forum for fabricating your own parts.
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Gregory got a reaction from Canute in Kits with fewer Cast Metal parts.
Detailed wood parts would really drive up the cost of a kit.
I have looked at a lot of kits over the years, and I don't recall any kit, at any price,
that included detailed wood parts.
The closest thing that I am aware of, are the kits that Chuck sells at his store. Syren Ship Model Company
He has items such as this Windlass which is part of the ' Cheerful ' package, but would not be out of place on a lot of ships at the same scale.
There are tons of ideas on this Forum for fabricating your own parts.
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Gregory got a reaction from zappto in America by greatgalleons - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:66 - Kit No. MV26 by A.Jorden
Nice work. I'm a big fan of the natural wood look..
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Gregory reacted to greatgalleons in America by greatgalleons - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:66 - Kit No. MV26 by A.Jorden
Now that the deck stuff is mostly done I will work on the hull after Christmas for sure.
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Gregory got a reaction from mtaylor in Model Shipway Ratline tool
I apologize for my rush to judgement, without taking a closer look.
Now that I have seen your instructions, it clearly addresses any shortcomings that I wrongly assumed.
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Gregory reacted to David Lester in Aftermarket yards and Masts for plastic kits
I was surprised to discover how easily yards can be made from wooden dowels with only an xacto knife and a #10 or #22 blade. Start with a dowel that is the same diameter (or a little bit bigger) as the thickest part of the yard. Mark the major transition points and centre point etc with a pencil and when necessary make shallow cuts around the dowel at those points. Then taper the dowel by simply scraping it repeatedly, pulling the knife towards you and rotating the dowel as you go. If you have to reduce the diameter significantly at the very end of the yard, make your shallow cut around the perimeter, then make short cuts coming in from the end towards the centre. Follow up with some sanding. While you won't get results that are as perfect as turning in a lathe would produce, you'll be surprised to discover what good results you can actually achieve. You will get a perfectly acceptable result. I am no expert craftsman and got very nice looking yards right off the bat using this method. And considering that a length of dowel won't break the bank, you can afford to have several practice runs if need be. I'm give this a try if I were you. Hope that's of some help.
David
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Gregory got a reaction from Canute in Model Shipway Ratline tool
I apologize for my rush to judgement, without taking a closer look.
Now that I have seen your instructions, it clearly addresses any shortcomings that I wrongly assumed.
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Gregory got a reaction from xken in Model Shipway Ratline tool
I apologize for my rush to judgement, without taking a closer look.
Now that I have seen your instructions, it clearly addresses any shortcomings that I wrongly assumed.
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Gregory got a reaction from Heronguy in Model Shipway Ratline tool
I apologize for my rush to judgement, without taking a closer look.
Now that I have seen your instructions, it clearly addresses any shortcomings that I wrongly assumed.
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