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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. shipman
    Pardon my ignorance, but I always wondered what was meant by a 'Chop Saw' is. Now I've seen this photo, it's inspired me to design and make a useful mini table top version, using a natty mini drill just arrived. We aren't always cutting lumber.
  2. shipman
    Enjoying your progress. I noticed your building 'stool' set-up.....and had a wave of the terrors. I do hope everything is lashed down firmly; wouldn't want the obvious to happen as you get absorbed in all that rigging.
  3. shipman
    I just LOVE these ladders! Never seen this detail before. Are they unique to French ships?
  4. shipman
    Following your progress with interest. I admire your enthusiasm. The chainplates are always a problem at these scales, looking forward to how these work out once you put tension on the shrouds. Are you planning using proper deadeyes on the upper masts? The masts would could look much better if you had scraped the mould lines off, that's just me; it's your model and it's coming along nicely. Noticed you have a deft hand with a paint brush; well done. I did a build of this kit years ago; one mod I made was to carve out all the stern windows and applied stretched sprue on the back, depicting separate window frames. After painting I flooded the openings with PVA glue which dries clear. Certainly added deapth and bit of realism. You asked at the beginning how to open square ports and hatches. I do all mine (including those windows) by first drilling a hole in the middle, then gently carve the rest out with a 10a scalpel (the 11a's are longer and thinner and tend to crack and snap. EYE PROTECTION) If you follow Hackney's build sequence you can't go too far wrong....at any scale. I appreciate this is your first build. My advice would be to enjoy yourself, you're clearly learning as you go along. It's too easy to get over ambitious and possibly dissapointed. By the time this one is done, you will be building the next with different eyes. That's a good way to learn.
  5. shipman
    Thank's for that BE. Has the Floquil Verdigris special properties, or is it their version of a particular colour? (I have many paints in my hoard, but none of the Floquil range)
  6. shipman
    Thank's BE (LOL). I'll be looking forward to that.
  7. shipman
    Just goes to show what can be done with a well produced plastic kit as a basis. Some of these kits are truly remarkable, and with a bit of research and mods where required, they can look better than any of the wooden kits, unless you're an accomplished craftsman and prepared to throw away 90% of it! BE, your model is literally, er......Superbe. The link to your original build is unfortunately expired, which is a shame, as I was hoping to find out how you treated the hull 'coppering' colouring. I was fortunate enough to see the 'Cutty Sark' in the old days in her dry dock before fire and 'restoration'. Your treatment is the nearest I've seen to how I remember it.
  8. shipman
    That's a fine model you're putting together. It's all about the pleasure. The Hackney books are well put together, with very clear step by step guides. I have all 3 he did; Victory, Cutty Sark and Mayflower. In my humble opinion these are very much under-rated. The Airfix kit is remarkably accurate if you compare it to the AOT drawings. I'd swear those drawings were based on this kit! Hackney reckoned the kit measures out to 1:171. For a laugh, here's my 20 year old rendition of their 'starter kit' in 1:600.
  9. shipman
    Not one of the contemporary models of ships boats I've ever seen has any indication or evidence that there was any provision in the hull for these 'dissapearing' bolts. Not even the lovely and comprehensive NMM collection, including their drawings which have every conceivable detail portrayed. An additional use for these bolts could have been utilised to lash the boat down on board ship: but no evidence of that either. But it would have been plausible. What you say makes practical sense, Roger; but why is this (important) feature not evident on the models? Returning to my original question:- 'I'm simply curious about this feature which surely demands some justification.' I'd be happy if someone could show me some contemporary evidence of the detail we've been discussing.
  10. shipman
    Roger, this is getting silly. No doubt you're correct and I'll go with that. However, all evidence of the fitting just disappears when the bolt is withdrawn? Why would the bolt (a relatively minor bit of kit) have to be withdrawn anyway? Just pulled down May's book and agree the p90 illustration depicts the deadeye chain is (sensibly) attached to the sheer 'strake'. Other than your welcome assertion, I maintain my original question. Could you kindly direct me to your source describing this bolt withdrawal business? I will then enter the New Year with my fevered mind at rest.
  11. shipman
    That's new to me Roger, thanks for that. So, the 'bolt' should still be evident on unrigged boats(?) Happy New Year to you and everyone else.
  12. shipman
    Ok, this post is a year old now. Ah, well, hear I go.......what mystifies me with this type of ships boat is the bottom location fittings for the stays and deadeye straps. The above model has 'nails' just banged into the hull. This is a typical modelling feature; but it leaves me unconvinced. When these boats are depicted with masts and rigging unshipped there is never any evidence of these fittings. Surely if a 'nail' had been there before there should be one there after. The sides of these hulls aren't that strong anyway, the stresses on these 'nails' must be substantial. I'm simply curious about this feature which surely demands some justification. I've raised this issue before, to no avail. I have an extensive library of my own, yet I find no answers. The horse and tiller debate worked itself into a frenzy. Perhaps my issue could highlight a similar controversy?
  13. shipman
    You may be able to modify a plastic model figure to suit. There's a large range to choose from in the model railway world. Whatever you try, I look forward to seeing how you get along.
  14. shipman
    The instruments are Staedtler. Ah, I have several similar sets from different eras. Show them to kids today and they think you're going to dissect them. I never mastered the ruling pen. Pencil, ruler, a couple of squares, a compass and dividers and some basic arithmetic and you're away! The marvels of antediluvian science.
  15. shipman
    Yep, tell her I'll be over tonight LOL. We'd better get back to something more constructive on this forum. People are beginning to talk.
  16. shipman
    You aren't so bad, Bob! (no matter what they say) 'Going to hell in a handcart' is a phrase that comes to mind.
  17. shipman
    'excuses for imprecise speech'. Trying to remain light-hearted on the subject, it's a bit rich, an American telling an Englishman about the use of the English language LOL. I stand by my original comment. However this is the season of forgiveness ...............hands across the water and all that.
  18. shipman
    Splendid job, well done. The only thing I would have done would replace the heavy kit spokes. You are right, for it's age it's a lovely kit. As its been around for so long (like their BMW) there's clearly a market. Shame they didn't expand their range of motorcycles.
  19. shipman
    Thanks for your advice, in retrospect wefalck's point is the way to go. Much appreciated.
  20. shipman
    Yep, wefalck, I understand what you are saying; which is why I intend gutting my pedal and fitting a simple on off switch. Touch the pedal once=ON. Touch it again=OFF. Retain the original switch as an isolator so if I walk by I'm not going to start the machine by accident.
  21. shipman
    Hi Bruce, thanks for your quick reply. I understand what you say and agree. I simply wish to use the foot pedal as an on/off switch so I have both hands free. Indeed I may modify the pedal to do just that. All the best to you and all.
  22. shipman
    Can I operate a Unimat lathe with a sewing machine foot control? If so, how to wire it in? Just fit it in line with the power cord? Advice appreciated, thank you.
  23. shipman
    Hi there Mark. Seasons Greetings. I picked up a box full of these 'things' at a yard sale for the price of a mug of coffee. They come with 2, 3, and 4 posts. In a range of lovely colours. The head revolves one way and each of the posts revolve in the opposite direction. The principals of a simple rope walk are there. Even if these 'things' aren't what we wished we had, at least one could be used to demonstrate how a proper rope walk works. And all it cost would be a dollar or a pound. Or a cup of coffee. Say hi to Jed.
  24. shipman
    Seasons Greetings. I'd call this a Robin. An Ornithologist knows it as Erithacus rubecula. But he would accept the rest of us calling it a Robin. Unless you know the (to a layman) subtle differences between the myriad rigs of historical sailing ships, then the layman is quite justified using the term 'Tall Ships'. I agree, each type has it's own correct description. But even in the 'historical' periods, some rigs were confused with others. If a family has a day out at the bay and has the luck to see any kind of sailing ship close up, a youngster may, just may be inspired. Perhaps later in life that child will have that memory and use it to develop a more profound interest and learn what is what. Today a child will have no issue with the term 'tall ship'. It's simply a ship with sails. It's JUST A NAME. To deny that SMACKS OF ELITEISM, pure Snobbery. Perhaps (just to show what we're talking about) we should be tarring our hair, get covered in crude tattoo's and walk with knuckles dragging on the ground.
  25. shipman
    Hope all you alcoholics sober up before you turn on power tools or ANY SHARP THINGS. These days, my favourite tool is an adjustable chair.

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