Richard Dunn

This puts the size in perspective,

Scuppers and air filling vents being put in.

17 hours ago, ccoyle said:

I never cease to be amazed by the size of Richard's model, even though I know what to expect when I open the log!

When you see it in person, it's big, but not that big. I have seen bigger, but it's

just manageable to turn and handle alone.

Well the plate distortion is not visible in primer as you need some gloss for it to show but the weld beads are nearly done and the hull is primed to 600 grit , the portholes are all masked at the moment, all the running gear is hooked up and the prop shafts and props are almost ready to install for good. Some superstructure elements are removed for now of course.

5 hours ago, georgeband said:

A second is that if you roughen the surface the light also leaks out.

If I was to roughen 25mm of tube would it fully illuminate like a tube light? or would it just be a dimmer light with most being at the end?

1 hour ago, paul ron said:

check this out...

https://open3dmodel.com/3d-models/fluorescent-lamp

Thanks but I don't need to know how to model them, I am a professional 3d modeller. just how to simulate a tube of

light inside

I am hoping to start a disscussion on ways of building convincing working light types for larger scale models.
I want to start with Flourescent tubes at 1/35, has anyone got any suggestions or experiance with making such thing?
To be more specific is their a way to have a long skinny lightsource like a tube?  or would it just have to be faked with the usual diodes?.
Something along these lines

The model will have some big updates soon and is well and truely on track for a launch date on the 14th July,, exactly 60 years to the day as the launch of the real ship on July 14th 1965
All running gear is installed, thrusters, props, motors, rudders etc. just a few planks to address and some glassing and sealer/primer and we are good to go

I have started a facebook page for this 2 days ago as well, as it covers the history of the ship as much as the model. Feel free to join, it's public.
This is because I have been getting inundated with new info lately from facebook as its obviously easier to find for non modellers.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/586060487227286

This is resolved now thanks, I only need to repair this to the instruction standard, I worked on the real ships restoration so dont need to go to deep.

Because as I said this is a repair not a  build and its a 30 year old model built by a  relative, I cant alter it.

If anyone in Australia has these left over I need them for a repair I have been given after a parrot flew into it on the shelf(no case). 8 of the sails have split in half.

I have been given this model to repair, it fell a long way off a shelf and require the rigging instruction to help.
If anyone could provide this it would be awesome.
EDIT I may have found them if someone could confirm this is all of it for me
https://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-rigging-sheets/
 

Nice build, and an interestng subject with lots of lovely drawings, the spirketting board being wider forward threw me  on the deck plankng drawing.

A slight delay in progress again, I have been asked to build another shell of this ship at same scale in a much simpler way so currenty framing that up while mine sits in our hallway in the house.
Thank gawd for wide hallways....

On 8/27/2024 at 8:22 AM, Jim Lad said:

you could equally ask why people building period warships go to the trouble of all the faming detail that will be hidden!

I had never thought of it like that,

I guess in a way it is the same thing

6 hours ago, KeithAug said:

She was built with them. Here is a screenshot from a video dated 2010, only a matter of moths after launch.

I stand corrected, wow, not the most elegant things.
I forget she is a rebuild I was meaning the original boat in the B/W images.

I am a stickler for accuracy, but even I would be putting in conventional Goosenecks or leaving them off I think.,I think  you can guarantee it would not have been built with those......
Are there any old photos that could show what was there?

I had a close look and I think they are custom made gooseneck vents as John said, made by someone who was unable to bend the pipe in the usual way, if you look at the close up you can see a connecting part.
I blocked it out in 3d to illustrate the possible arrangment.
The placement would also suggest this, but if you have a plan showing hull voids/tanks it would confirm it.

9 hours ago, KeithAug said:

the plan looks a little daunting.

Haha.. well this model is built from 480 of those.  that is one of the more complex ones I admit

Has anyone used PVA as a glazing mask? on acrylic

Some framing started on Port aft mooring deck, these stringers above and below the openings were VERY hard to fit into place and keep flush with holes, I think I invented some new words during this.
Once the Bulwark stays go in this should be quite stiff.

A couple of renders of the framing in here as a whole.

And just for the few hard core people actually reading this. here is the actual plan to compare to  of the aft part of this, the forward part with stair well does not exist.

knock yourself out.

I know a lot of people are probably say " why are you going to all the trouble of framing all this up", well Its always been one of my life goals to have this on my model, it's very important to me, at at this scale I feel it's  a given.

The most difficult plate in the whole model is on on one side.

Deck removed to show mooring deck ready to be fitted with all the framing, the most complex bit of framing on the model, the rolled corner losses shape without the deck in lace, but will return once the framing is in place. there are 2 tranverse frames which I will fit but the longitudinals will be fitted to the deck so this can be framed out and painted before the deck gets glued down

That concludes the non glazed plating on the port side upper hull and all steel decks, once sanded I will prime and weld bead.

Thanks John, it looks better once weld beads are on.

Some shots from this weekeneds run.
I also did a long tutorial on how that plating is done in the appropriate section.

3 hours ago, KeithAug said:

I won't even pretend to be in the same class as Doris with modelling clay.

I don't think many of us are, but I for one want to at least get close, it's a very useful skill.
At least it's cheap to learn and if things go wrong you can have another go, also I like the idea of being able to work on top of a paper plan with a sheet of celluloid or glass so you have a guide.
Thats why we need a movement to get her videos back she put up 10 years ago.
I have spent nearly a day looking through the web for links to it ,mainly on Czech sites and sent private messages asking when I find contact links, but sadly she has not been in here since 2021

I recently added Photoetching to my skillset, it took me 2 years to get around to it and I think i worked it up into something scary in my mind but it's really not, but for gingerbread at your scale I dont think it would cut it and you can't get the bevelled forms, everything has to be flat or inset
Doris, if you are watching this can you please link us back to your vidoes on your incredible sculpting.