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Paul Le Wol

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Everything posted by Paul Le Wol

  1. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Jacques, the seizing is looking good. Not sure if this is how you are doing it but in the past, using cotton thread, I have started with a clove hitch. Dab some diluted pva on it. Wrap the free ends around the back and tie an overhand knot on the front. Keep doing this until seizing is the desired length. Then apply diluted pva to the cotton thread and when dry snip the ends off. The overhand knots will keep the tension and you don’t end up with as much unraveling. You just have to make sure the overhand knots are butted tightly up against each other. It might be worth a try. Congratulations on your successful move!
  2. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Stuka, nice start and nice choice. Cutters are great. Good luck.
  3. Paul Le Wol
    Congratulations Dave, this has been a wonderful build and log.
  4. Paul Le Wol
    Dave, good luck with this amazing looking model!
  5. Paul Le Wol
    Caferacer, congratulations on finishing your Benjamin W Latham. Beautiful work and great presentation!
  6. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks Keith, you gotta love those greyhounds.
  7. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you @KeithAug, @Jim Lad and @bdgiantman2 for your comments. I appreciate them very much.
  8. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you very much Gary. I should have the hang of this staining just as the last plank is laid. 😀
  9. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Everyone, I hope you are all well. Thank you for your generous Comments and support. The deck planking is underway. I went with the curved planking that was shown in a previously posted photo, and king planks. I’m guessing on whether or not king planks were used but they certainly make the planking easier to lay. Each plank is edge bent and sealed with the WOP/ pigment mixture before gluing to the sub deck. The excess glue can then be removed with a damp brush or cloth with worrying about it affecting the stain penetration. I use a pipette to put the WOP in a bottle cap, dip a cotton swab in the pigment and then mix the two together. This is usually enough to stain one or two planks. The results vary depending on how much the wood absorbs but generally they are close enough. If I was going to do it again I would probably use 3/32” wide planks instead of 1/8”. Both for looks and bend-ability. The pump wells were installed when I got to them. They are made from a 1/8 x 1/8” strip of wood sheathed in 1/32” strips that result in a 3/16” x 3/16” box. The 1/8” core was made shorter than the sheathing to give it the hollow look. A spare carronade carriage truck was used to make a sheave for the center board hoist. It was mounted to a cutoff blade spindle and shaped. And then the planking continued. Hope to see you soon.
  10. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Gary, you have just de-mystified how to obtain such clean results on what seems to me to be a very challenging part of the build. Very nice!
  11. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Bill, he is using something like these. I bought them at Lee Valley when I was picking up some Starbond CA. They don’t clog but every so often you have to cut a bit off of the tip
  12. Paul Le Wol
    John, thank you very much!
  13. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks Keith, I’m not sure where they make clothes pegs these days but they don’t seem to be very good anymore. 😢
  14. Paul Le Wol
    It’s good to keep those supervisors on their toes.
  15. Paul Le Wol
    Rik, the deck planking looks great. The clinker planking is a very nice detail.
  16. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Gary, thank you for your comment. It is really appreciated.
  17. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks @JacquesCousteau for your comment on the weathering. I was kind of debating about how far to take it. I think it will end up being semi-grunge. Thanks @druxey for your comment on the bending. I was thinking about the cockpit wall for the longest time wondering what the best process would be.
  18. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Everyone, thanks to all for your Comments and Likes. The past week was spent working on the cockpit. The floor was glued together and cut/sanded to size. Before gluing, the strips of AYC were sealed with WOP tinted with Vallejo Dark Slate Grey pigment . ( 1/2 tsp. / oz. ). The floor was then glued into place. The cabin’s aft wall sits on top of the floor so this was glued in next. The cabin wall material that was shaped a little while ago was taped back on to the mold and a piece 3/4” wide was cut from it and given a test fit. The remainder of the wall material that was still taped to the mold was used to shape a strip of 1/32” x 1/16” boxwood that wood become the outer edge of the wall’s cap. A jig was made to keep it honest while gluing. A smaller mold was used to shape a strip of wood that would become the inside edge of the wall’s cap. This strip was then glued to the inside top edge of the wall. The cap was sanded and thinned wood filler was applied to fill gaps in the lamination. After some sanding and a few coats of paint the wall was given another test fit. Next I’ll be heading to the bow to start the deck planking. Hope to see you there.
  19. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you John, I think that’s the look I was going for. 😀
  20. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you Keith, I really appreciate your comments.
  21. Paul Le Wol
    Glen, congratulations on finishing this fine creation. Your friend must be very pleased to see her suggestion come to fruition.
  22. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you Keith, you are very kind.
  23. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Everyone, many thanks for all of the Comments and Likes. About a month ago I started working on the cap rails and in that time they were completed and the hull painted. Between coats of paint the deck furnishings were being worked on. A piece of wood 3/16” x 5/16” was pinned to the deck as a placeholder for the bowsprit. The bulwarks were finished to the bowsprit and then the cap rails were made. The cap rail around the stern was cut from a sheet of AYC and assembled in the same manner as the covering board. I decided to use a strip of wood at the bow instead of cutting the cap rail from a sheet. It was a bit of a battle to get enough bend. Should have used a more rounded piece of wood for the jig. You can see a bit of a kink in the rail but the strip was wide enough that it could be sanded out. This is where the painting started. First a coat of clear shellac and then around 6 coats of thinned paint. The posts that support the dredge roller were added halfway through the painting because the cap rail and the rub rail needed to be notched. The white - grey was finished being applied and then a few days later the hull red was applied below the waterline. I had the wooden plaque laying around so the boat was mounted on it in order to scribe the waterline and to show how it will sit. Next comes a bit of sanding and touch up work. Then on to the deck. Take care of yourselves!
  24. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Dan, your lobster smack is coming along very nicely. You’ve probably seen in other people’s build logs suggestions that they look at Chuck’s tutorials on plank bending where it shows using jigs and heat provided by a small iron. Once they cool they tend to hold their shape. If the plank needs a twist you can clamp one end to the bench and use a heat gun to bend and twist the plank with your free hand. I’ve noticed that if planks are soaked in water for too long they lose their ability to gently curve from one bulkhead to the next. Instead they bend at the bulkhead and head straight to the next one. This is of course just my opinion 😀. Good luck with your build!
  25. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Keith, thank you for showing how you bent the transom planking. I would never have thought of bending one length and cutting. I looked at the photo of the long circular bent plank for the longest time before realizing what it was for.😀

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