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Paul Le Wol

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Everything posted by Paul Le Wol

  1. Hi Dan, your lobster smack is coming along very nicely. You’ve probably seen in other people’s build logs suggestions that they look at Chuck’s tutorials on plank bending where it shows using jigs and heat provided by a small iron. Once they cool they tend to hold their shape. If the plank needs a twist you can clamp one end to the bench and use a heat gun to bend and twist the plank with your free hand. I’ve noticed that if planks are soaked in water for too long they lose their ability to gently curve from one bulkhead to the next. Instead they bend at the bulkhead and head straight to the next one. This is of course just my opinion 😀. Good luck with your build!
  2. Hi Keith, thank you for showing how you bent the transom planking. I would never have thought of bending one length and cutting. I looked at the photo of the long circular bent plank for the longest time before realizing what it was for.😀
  3. Dave, congratulations on finishing this beautiful model. The photos are excellent!
  4. Thanks Gary, the Alaskan Cedar is very nice to work with. It will sand to as smooth a finish as you want and it holds a clean edge. Very nice for making small parts and it takes heat bending without breaking as long as you take it slow. All in all I like it a lot. Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill is very good to deal with._
  5. Hi Keith, I’ve come across photos of a few oyster boats ( not sharpies) that have sliding wood panels as opposed to glass windows so I thought that it wouldn’t be too far of a reach for a sharpie to be equipped in a similar manner. The subject kind of reminded me of a book I had read a long time ago. I think it was a Louis L’Amour western where he was talking about buildings in the old west not having glass windows because it was expensive and difficult to get. I always enjoyed his books. Might have to pick another one up someday 😀
  6. Hi Everyone, thanks to all of you for the generous support. While working on the cap rails and painting the hull I was also working on the cabin. It is just about complete so this update will be about that process. There’s a lot of angles and curves to the cabin. The four sides were made from 1/16” x 1/4” AYC and after a lot of trimming, tweaking and dry fitting they were ready for gluing together. The window frames are made from boxwood strips. A 1/32” x 1/32” strip is glued to the back of the 1/32” x 1/16” strip to create a channel. I found it easier to glue them together while sitting in place. After the glue was dry the cabin was removed. A beam was added to support the 3/64” x 3/16” roof planks and then a coat of clear shellac was applied Sliding wood panels were used in the window frames instead of glass. My story is that some of the builders of these boats couldn’t afford glass. A few coats of paint later is when I noticed that I had forgotten the drainage holes in the sliders. Splash boards were used instead of doors because the cockpit is not that big. Now it’s back to painting the hull. Hope to see you soon!
  7. Hi Gary, beautifully done. Those 3/4 bow and stern photos are something to behold.
  8. Hi Mikki, you are off to a great start. I thought I was the only person to have ever owned a Surface 😀
  9. Bob, congratulations on finishing your King of the Mississippi ! Beautifully done. Good luck with the Duchess of Kingston.
  10. Hi Gary, that you for your comment and thank you Jacques for the original comment. Much appreciated!
  11. Hi Colin, thank you very much for your comment and for the suggestions. Lots of interesting content there.
  12. Hi Keith,thank you for your comment. You are very kind. This has been an enjoyable build probably due to its simple lines.
  13. Eric,congratulations on completing Peerless. Such a fine result. I’m going to miss your updates on this very interesting time and subject. I like the johnboat leaning on its side. More work but hey. Maybe if Peerless is mounted in a diorama the johnboat will be put to work.
  14. Hi Everyone, hope you are all well. Thanks you very much for the Comments and Likes. I have just about finished the main hatch. Still needs some hooks for the oars and rings for the covers. The covers sit in a rabbet inside the top of the coaming. I’ve never seen a photo or diagram of what happens at the rounded front end so this is my take on it. Here is a section from Chapelle’s drawing. It cuts through the hoist for the center board. The frame of the hatch was used to shape the 1/32” skin that will give the effect of the rabbet. The covers were glued together and then glued to the frame Once the covers were sanded flush with the frame the 1/32” basswood was glued to the frame with lots of overhang. The 1/32” basswood was sanded flush and then a coat of thinned clear shellac was applied. The center board was made in two pieces because I didn’t want to cut the two beams that run through the slot in case something sprung. The top of the center board and the main hatch were painted with Vallejo White Grey and the bottom of the center board was painted with Hull Red. The White Grey is more Grey than I thought it would be. See how it looks once the hull is painted. The Hull Red is kind of a really dark mahogany color. The cap rails are attached and just need to be sanded thinner. Hope to see you soon.
  15. Hi OC, if you have a USB port on that laptop maybe you can borrow or find a cheap usb keyboard to plug in. Good luck with your laptop. Love your work!
  16. Hi Rik, thank you very much for your kind comment. I have been quietly admiring your beautiful work on the Hooker Ship. A year or so ago I bought Ab Hoving’s book on 17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships. I think that I was intimidated by what seemed to be very complex hulls. I will follow your build with great interest.
  17. Glen,congratulations on the successful completion of Banshee II. Beautifully stressful videos. I think I need to go lay down now!
  18. Hi Keith, thank you for sharing your memories of this wonderful piece of equipment. A great start to a very interesting project. Good luck!
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