Captain Poison

What about cooper sheet/foil?
https://www.quickshipmetals.com/copper/copper.html

What about cooper sheet/foil?
https://www.quickshipmetals.com/copper/copper.html

What about cooper sheet/foil?
https://www.quickshipmetals.com/copper/copper.html

Thank you, Gary!!
I placed a couple of fore cant frames:
 

 

 

 

So, the moldings I cut and ebonized yesterday have been assembled on the base and the acrylic pedestals installed. The model has been mounted on these using spots of epoxy. I now have to wait for the case to be made before I can mount the base on the much larger sub-base and attach the oars. Almost there!
 

All done with piano wire. 

Baker´s oven.
Two more charcoal stoves remains to be made. It will be quite a challenge at this scale.

I have finished rigging the guns (with the exception of a couple that have to wait on installing the hanging  knees). I now have to wait on the availability of the Chapter seven parts to proceed any further.
 
Bob

I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while
 
I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for  the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified  in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals.
 
One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through.
 
3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. 
 
What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care:
 
First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy.
 
Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.
 
 

A couple of more pics - having a weird problem with them uploading upside down using an iPhone to make them. Oh well…………
 
Thanks for all the likes!
 
Don

Making the Yards
 
Aside from the anchors the yards are the last thing I’ll make for Cheerful, my voyage is getting close to the end.
 

 
One last trip through the machines. Although the yards will be painted black I elected to use a bit of the boxwood I purchased from Modeler’s Sawmill for no real reason other than I wanted to work with a little box - its such beautiful and easy to work wood. Not that the Yellow Cedar isn’t, they are both excellent woods for modeling. It’s great that Modeler’s Sawmill gives us a new source of quality wood.
 
First up after cutting square lengths to size was to drill the holes for the sheaves on the square stock, much simpler to do now then trying to add them to a rounded yard.
 

 
Back to my octagon jig and the finger plane I’ve described earlier in this log, it’s the perfect tool for this job. First it was marking the wood using the 7-10-7 rule, then cutting to the pencil marks with the plane. I marked the center part of both yards that remain in octagon shape after shopping as shown on the plans, I wanted to be sure to have a nice pretty octagon for that part and gave it extra care.
 


Off to the lathe, I cut both yards long to provide a good hold for the chuck. I had no problem with the length, not having a tail stock doesn’t present any issue. I just hold the end in one hand and sand with the other. I rounded the side furtherest from the chuck first for extra support. I measure and mark the plans at increments then frequently check those with my calipers as I sand with various grades of sand paper. I also used a 00 file to cut the ends clean and sharp. Although I removed it for this photo I also wrapped Tamiya tape at the outer edges of the center octagon do ensure a clean line there as well, then smoothed out the transition as the last step with a very fine grit sanding stick. Of course the real challenge with yards is sanding the second side to its mirror twin of the first - I mark them side I and side II to keep track and take measurements much more frequently.
 

 
It’s true rounding masts and yards can be done with a hand drill. Having done both I believe the lathe makes it simpler and easier to manage the incremental sanding required. Where the lathe shines, or at least this particular Proxxon model, is in the ability to slide the yard inside the chuck to expose only one half. This particularly helped with the 12 ½ inch main yard.
 

 
After checking and rechecking the measurements I added the stops and my yards are made, the machines go quiet.
 

 
The main yard sling is first served then a thimble (selected from my jar-o-thimbles) is added. The short end of the sling is cut off just short of the thimble (done after this photo) and the long edge turned and glued using CA to form the loop.
 

 
I seized it with twelve turns, crossed the two ends of the seizings twice through the center, and finished off with a square knot on the bottom where it won’t be seen. The seizing covered the two glued ends of the loop, you’d never know it was there.
 
The topmast sling was made the same way except it isn’t served and of course is shorter.
 

 
I added the topmast lift and tackle, working near the trees to complete the block seizing. Once again I marvel the difference the addition of the Quad Hands has made for my work. I have the medium plate size but added a 4th 16” arm. This tool comes in handy so many times throughout the rigging process, I can’t recommend it enough. 
 

 
So with that the yards are complete - oh wait that’s not how they go. 🙂 It seems I have some rigging to do, back to the Quad hands and my dwindling rope supply.
 
Thanks for the likes and the comments, they are always appreciated.

It has been a while since I posted an update.  There’s not much to see, but I’ve missed posting.  I’ve completed the spirketting and am starting to work on margin planks.  These are a ways from complete and are still pretty uneven.  The cannon is also far from complete.  I built it just enough to confirm that my gun ports are OK.  I totally cheated on the quoin by using a store bought belaying pin.  I will try to make them from scratch when I get to chapter six.


I’m happy with the three gratings in this shot, but the other three are a train wreck right now.  I bought another grating kit to replace them.

You can see that I cracked the port side beam clamp at the forward notch.  I think this will be hidden in the end.  The port margin plank in this shot is pretty close.  I not cutting the scarf joint until the next piece is ready.

All finished. Forgot to post. 

As I am finalizing and cutting Chapter seven parts...here is a sneak peak of what will  be chapter 8.  I have just started working on these fittings under the fcastle deck beams.   There are far fewer items so this chapter should go quicker.  The most detailed item to make will be the Stove.  The other stuff is quite straight forward.
 

 
 

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

Fore and aft sails templates test fitting:

 
I adjusted the jib sails a bit to allow a bit for variation due to rescaling errors.
 
I still need to make a template for the fore top sail.
 
The rigging is one of my favorite parts of the model.  Detailing/fitting out the hull is my other favorite part.

I couldn’t resist starting on the gratings and coamings.  They were calling to me from inside the box!  I’ve actually been looking forward to making Chuck’s gratings since before I started the Winnie project.  So here is a picture of my first coaming and grating, ready for paint and WOP.

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Completion of the cutout / section of the gun decks of a French 74 gun ship,
from plan drawings by Jean Boudriot and 3D rendering by Gregory Franchetti.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good winds in this project! it's a great frigate with plenty of option for details due the scale.
 

Finished the elm tree pumps which effectively finish chapter 7.   I will get the printed chapters ready this week for both chapters 6 and 7.  I will also be working on getting the parts for this chapter ready within a week or so.  There are a whole bunch of laser cut parts for this chapter and more than usual so it will take a little while.   There are probably more laser cut parts in this chapter than in many complete kits.
 

Making the elm pumps is pretty straight forward.  Same as those for Cheerful and other kits.
 
1.You can use a  7/10/7 ratio to transfer lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube. This will help you turn the 3/16 x 3/16 x 5/8" boxwood strip into a neat octagon. But its such a short piece that like me you may be able to eyeball it and sand it to the octagon shape with a nail file.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines or your eye as a guide. Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8". Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.
 
2. File and shape the bracket for the handle. The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon. Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape. This will accept the handle.
 
3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off for the spout. Using an emery board this takes only a minute. This will become your pump spout. Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout. Glue it to the pump tube. All pieces can be painted first.
 
4. Using some black tape or even painted painted black paper, cut it into thin strips about 3/64" wide.  This will simulate the iron band at the top of the pump tube.
 
5. Glue the bracket into position.  You could paint it black like I did or leave it natural.
 
6. Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle. Like an eyebolt. Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube. Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle sits in the bracket nicely. The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.
 
7. Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position. Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit.
 

Finishing all of the deck fittings and beams does really change the overall look of the model.  Its starting to fill in with all of those wonderful details.  This makes you want to add more of them which I will do shortly.  Chapter 8 will be doing this same work but under the forecastle beams.  Finally get to make the stove and other bitts.
 
Just look at how the model is filling out nicely with detail.  Just try not to snag those elm tree pump handles as you work on other stuff on the model!!!  Boy that forecastle area looks so empty!!

 

Finally, I've gotten into doing some gun rigging. Between some hospital time, and a reluctance to do the work, it's been awhile. In any event, I've done three guns with breech ropes and side tackles. I came up with the line and block sizes using the tables in Lees (The Masting and Rigging Of English Ships Of War). I will continue to do the remaining guns, with the exception of those that have their eyebolts or ring bolts set in knees. Those will have to wait until deck beams and knees are in place. 
 
Bob

Today was a good day to work on the model....cold and rainy.   Continuing the chain pumps....
 
The crank handles are next but I needed to make the forward stanchions for them.   I posted some contemporary examples of those earlier.
 
You can make these all out of brass if you like.  Like so many other parts, they can be made using boxwood if your careful and neatly built them.  It becomes all about how you finish them or paint them.
 
The stanchions will hopefully look similar to these.
 

 
I used a 5/64 x 1/16" boxwood strip and shaped it as follows.   Attached to this was an actual brass strip that was bent to the curved shape needed and blackened.   I drilled a hole for the crank in the top of the boxwood strip and rounded off the top.  I determined the height of the stanchion by using the 1mm brass rod as before.
 
Once the height was good I glued the bent brass strip....1/64" x 1/16" brass strip to the wood stanchion.   Its the same width so it will all look like the same piece if carefully sanded and painted and weathered.
 

 
Here is what it looks like on the model.  This is also how I determined their height.
 

Then it was time to make the crank handles.  I cut the center brass rod to length and blackened it.  It was cut so the crank handles would clear the horizontal cross timber on the gallows.  so the brass rod overhangs the horizontal timber of the gallows and jeer bits on the other end.  See below.   
 
The crank handle was bent to shape from the same size 1mm brass rod.   But the square portion was once again made from boxwood.  I left it unpainted in the photo below.  I used the same 5/64 x 1/16 strip.   I drilled one hole for the main shaft and another for the bent crank handle into the end of the piece.   I glued it onto the end of the bent crank handle.  Its a very simple concept.  Once painted black and brushed with some weathering powder it will all look very convincing....I hope.
 

 
To position it, slide the wooden end onto the main shaft first.  But the crank handle needs to be in the "up" position.  just rotate it so the bent crank is on the top.  This will allow you to clear the cross beam of the gallows.  Slide it on and then insert the forward end in the "iron" stanchion on the edge of the grating.
 
Below both crank handles are completed and painted....with some weathering powder.   Next I will repeat this for the bent crank handles on the aft side of the chain pumps.  I think it turned out pretty good for a low tech assembly.
 

 

 
 
 

Update
2.Gun Deck
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for all likes!!!
 
Today I have made the inner post; nothing is fixed yet, everything is provisional:
 

 
The rabbet: for now it is only sketchy. It will be completed later, after the hawse pieces have been fixed
 

good evening everyone
 
felt like pants today, so not much achieved. might be due to 2nd covid jab i had yesterday, 
 
but i did get some of the after port side accommodation ladder made up
and changed the build title pending a name change
 
at present my fancied re-name is TS Nivek Sira (im sure most of you will work that one out)