Captain Poison

All frames glued up! Almost no issues, only a few needed opening up of the slots with a file. Test fitted all before beginning to glue.

Thank you gentlemen, just contact the National Museums Scotland..

Actually, I see a stylized daisy.....
My first idea was 'button'. Can it be the remnants of a metal button, dating some time (but not too long time) back?
 
Jan

Take or send these images either to National Museums Scotland or the British Museum.

I vote button belonging perhaps to a cloak. Likely the metal loop on the back long ago rusted away.

Thank you Eduard an for all the likes.
I have sanded the hull to 400 grid an give it 3 coast of water base satin latex translucent paint. I sanded the bulk guards as per instructions and added the reference cap rails except for the waste. 
Thought I will remove the slay to get better pictures.
Best,
G


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So I acquired the .5mm blade and have cut a few planks to get me started.
Before I get on with the planking I finished the stern frame after having quite hard time getting the filler pieces and temporary window blanks to fit satisfactorily. 

I think I may
 

have got it!!

All glued except the white pieces, then I realized forgot to cut the circular holes careful drilling later!
So chapter two begins, I am happy to start planking but apprehensive as it's not my favourite activity but I do have all the time in the world to do it.
Thanks for following😃
Cheers. 

Chapter 3 finished. I'm pretty pleased with it it though there are obvious errors. I set the upper beam of the quarter gallery too high with the result that the fancy moulding across the transom is too high hi and there is no run for pedestals for the laser cut columns. I painted the the piece about the windows red but I didn't like it it and prefer it plain. I've ordered the the resin parts from Syren.

Today was a milestone, I finally finished the stbd side planking. It’s still in its raw state and will require much sanding before I can treat it and get it looking tidy. Quite a learning curve from previous planking jobs but the results are infinitely better. Onto the port side and hopefully chapter 3 soon.
 
JJ
 

Got the first belt finished tonight, gave it a rough sanding with 120 to clean up all the glue seams and level it out. Tight seams are tough to make especially with all the curves but I’m ok with where it ended up, Lots of learning, still may go the copper plate route as I really like the finish on minerva.
Chucks tic strips he provides are extremely helpful and fit my hull very well, I feel confident in lining off my next hull now. Going to start the same belt on the stbd side next week.
JJ

HI ALL and thank you for visiting these pages. This will be just my second attempt at building a wooden boat kit, my first one being the BILLING BOATS ST.ROCH which took me forever to complete, lol. I kept putting the kit away for months at a time, but this time, I'll be able to commit much more readily.
 
I always fancied building this Venice Passenger boat since first seeing one on a trip to Venice (I took the photos below). I have no idea what attracted me to them - it just happened and then I became a little fixated after following Steve Gogs' amazing Build-Log (which has now very sadly been lost).
 
Amazingly, just as this model arrived, I also stumbled upon an old BENTLEY Airfix kit which I built as a schoolboy in the early 1970's. I spotted it on Facebook's MarketPlace and couldn't believe my eyes - a totally "Brand New In Box", unopened kit with the original price tag of £4.65p from Toy Town in Leamington Spa. WOW!!!
 
I just might build the Bentley first and try to get my grandson interested in the hobby. I should imagine the car-kit will get him hooked quicker than a long, drawn out boat build.
 
Anyway, it's good to be back on here and I very much look forward to chatting with you all and benefiting from your knowledge and experience.
 
Regards,
 
Tom.
 



 

Oars

As indicated in the recent posting, I made the oars from three pieces. I only made 10, rather than the 20 that it would normally have, partly because of having to stow them all and partly because I reckoned that with the sails up there would only be effective room for 10 oarsmen.


 
The oars were stained using my own mix of walnut crystals diluted 1:30 in water. As you can see, this ended up with them being rather blotchy. The sleeves were made of black card 0.2mm thick.


The problem was where to place them on the boat, and then how to fix them. There were three possibilities: along the centre, on either side of the foremast, or held over the sides. I went with them being held over the sides as being the most efficient use of space.


 
So how to fit them to the sides? Naturally this should be based on a loop, but I needed to be able to adjust the loop so that the oars would hang exactly at the gunwale, and also ensure that there would be no unsightly knots visible.


 
The solution was a simple one of seizing together the two ends of a loop that had already been strung round a thwart in a way that would allow easy adjustment.

 






So now I have to think about how to make a barrel, a boathook, a chest and a binnacle. I may well fail!


[By the way, for those who look at the rake of the mizzen mast, it is at the prescribed angle. The main and fore masts are almost vertical.]
 
Tony
 

I've now completed all of chapter three with the exception of the fancy rail on the Q gallery roofs. I've decided to leave that for later, to protect them. 
 
The work completed included the moldings and friezes on the hull sides and the remaining work on the transom: painting; moldings; the cove; window frames and glazing; the castings; and the fluted columns. Let me start by saying that after all of the hull planking, this was fun to do.
 
The hull moldings and friezes were relatively straight forward. The laser cut scrolls were a godsend. Thank you, Chuck. I applied Wipe-on Poly to the friezes, as well as the moldings, and I like the result.
 
Moving to the transom, I chose to paint the transom, rather than use the printed paper piece. I first used cerulean blue, but didn't like the color match to the friezes, and started experimenting. What I finally came up with was teal, tinted with cerulean blue, which I found to be a much better match to my printouts. After painting, I added the upper edge molding, using the laser cut pieces. Next, I mounted the window frames and glazed them with Micro Kristal Klear, as I had done with the Gallery windows. I then made and mounted the cove and the connecting moldings above and to the side of the outer false windows. At this point, I cleaned up, shaped and tinted the castings, using fruitwood gel stain. The castings were then mounted , in the order suggested by Chuck. I think that they look great. Another big "thank you" to Chuck for providing a beautiful way to do something that would otherwise have been impossible for me. The transom was completed by making up and mounting the fluted columns, using the laser cut parts and strip wood.
 
It seems that I will now need to take a pause until the Chapter Four parts and printout are available. I don't mean to be pushy, but any idea when that will be, Chuck?
 
Bob

Finished
 
It's been some time since the last update.  I have had a very busy summer with storms and then doctor visits.  Below are the final photos showing the oars, boat hook and the base.
 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for Looking in,
 
BobW

Error with the ballast stones.
Karl
 

HI eveyone,
 
Working away. I have installed the foremost port spirketting, using the idea from Rob Napier of SWOPEM (Situation Where One Piece Equals Many) in 18th century ship model construction. You can see the  hooked scarfs inscribed in the single spirketting piece, which allowed me to fit and stain this piece outside the model, then install for a clean line to the waterway. I will hide the vertical joints between these large spirketting pieces behind the standards.
 
Clamping was challenging; I made a shaped block for the outboard side at the centerline, which hooks over the stem to keep it in place while placing the clamp. I also had to use some pins in hidden places to keep the piece tight to the stem and to the waterway while putting the clamps in place.
 


 
While waiting for stain and glue to dry, I continued to work on the stove predating the Brodie stove. Here is all the information I have on my NMM plans for the Bellona ca. 1759:
 
 

 
It matches almost exactly in dimensions the stove shown in the NMM plans for the HMS Dorsetshire of 1757, which has more detail. Check out the massive nozzle to the left:

 
Note in both cases the 4" substance sitting between the stove and the deck below. Mark P.'s original contract from this pre-Brodie stove period clearly calls for a lead-lined tray shaped at the edges by cants around the stove, and says nothing about brick. Looking at the model of the Princess Royal of 1773, 20 years later than the Bellona but a little before the Royal Navy switch to the Brodie stove, the model indicates what Rob Napier interprets as masonry on the base, painted this nice cream color and with a roughly 1 foot square paving pattern (see below). But also notice that it has a black cant around the outer edge. This seems to accord with the drawings of the Bellona and the Dorsetshire. So I wonder if the brick sits over the lead tray but was not mentioned in the contract, or if there were several ways this was done before the Brodie stove, sometimes with lead only, sometimes with masonry.
 

 
Given the certain information of a contemporary model that is consistent with my Bellona drawing, I have decided to go with this attractive cream colored base. Whether it is masonry or not I will leave to the imagination of the viewer!
 
Now, on to some interesting details at the roasting end of the stove, on the right side of the elevation. In the Dorsetshire drawing, the fire grate for the roasting area sits to the right and at the base of the dotted curved line. It appears to be open all the way up to where the chimney starts to angle in. Right in the center of this open space appear to be four horizontal round bars seen as circles in this elevation.
 
We can also see these in the Rob Napier's photo of the Princess Royal stove, below. The location of these would seem to prevent the use seen later in the Brodie stove of arms that can be swung in and out of this fire for holding pots. Indeed, the Princess Royal stove seems to show a shallow pan at the top of the horizontal bars; was this for frying? The pan does not show in the Dorsetshire drawing.
 
Also, note in the Dorsetshire drawing 3 wiggly shapes projecting out from the face of the fire, with one, three and then two hooked shapes for holding a horizontal spit bar or bars, perhaps? they can's swing in over the fire, since the bars are in the way. Did they roast on spits hanging at different distances from the fire, to control the heat? There is definitely a tray for drippings under all of these spit bar holders. So were these wiggly projections just bolted onto the sides of the stove, like the simpler spit bar holders in the later Brodie stove? That will be my best guess at this point.
 

 
All for now!
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

other photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went ahead with the work a bit.
I completed the guns bridge. It is not very precise, I had to adapt some solutions with the drawings of the structure, some measures did not match, and above all there is a serious error in the fixing of the double pulley for the maneuver of the rudder which is not fixed to a beam, but I could not move it so as not to compromise the perpendicularity with the steering wheel.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The oven:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

some small progress:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

compartiments du faux pont:
 

I started laying the first beams of the battery bridge:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went a little bit further with the model.
The false bridge:

 

 
 
The beams of the first bridge:

 

 

 

 

 

a few steps forward: