Captain Poison

First, a disclaimer: all shortcomings in the work are the result of my failings, not the kit parts. Aging and the deterioration of my hands (a small tremor in one and arthritis in the other) have taken a toll. Handling and manipulation of small parts is getting progressively more difficult and redoing is less and less successful, because the third try isn't likely to be any better than the first. Having said all of that, a word of caution, particularly to those still in early stages of the build. As Chuck has warned, the parts in this chapter have very little wiggle room, meaning that even small deviations  in shape and position in early stages can make life difficult later on (no need to ask how I know). Notwithstanding all of the foregoing, I still greatly enjoy building generally, and this build in particular.
 
With that overlong introduction, I have now completed chapter nine. This last work includes  the catheads and the forecastle rail, with it's cat blocks, spanshackle cleats and inboard cleats. While most of the items should be relatively straightforward, for the reasons set out above, I found many of the tasks got fussy and difficult. Cutting the slots for the catheads and getting the rail to align properly were the most problematic.
 
Bob

Hi...

I fully intended to use Chris' precut channels from the kit - they look nice and obviously are shaped and sized properly.  I even stained them so that would blend a little better without being painted and added the pins and rings.
 
 
 
Then... I over sanded one trying to get it to fit snuggly against my larger-than-the-kit main wales.  Totally screwed up the shape and made it too thin.  So, I had to make all the channels from scratch so they'd match.  Silver lining is that I got to make them out of walnut, which better matches my other pieces and overall scheme.
 
 
 

 
  Another important addition are the knees to mount the channels - also out of walnut. Rather than mount the channels first and then the drift rails like a normal person - I did the drift rails first, so I went through and notched them all out to fit the knees. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
      I'll throw on a coat of tung oil to get the coloring to match the rails, and other fittings, then on to the decorations/frieze along the hull.  I've had to wait on those because I've added a bunch of things that would be in the way of them.  Also - my sheer strake is patterned after the FFM and quite a bit thicker than the kit version - which limits the area for the frieze.  Much like the transom, I'll have to add the frieze in bits and pieces. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

If you remember, I used the provided laser cut template to mark the height of the stern frames.
 

 
Then I cut them down most of the way with sharp chisels and a #11 blade.  I followed that up with sanding them down to their final height.
 
The first part of the cap added was the laser cut center section.  It is 1/16" thick.  This piece has a gentle curve to it when viewed from above to follow the curve of the transom.  This piece was centered and glued in position.  I also cleaned up both ends to make them neat and tidy to accept the pieces we will glue into position next.
 
You can see the center section glued into place below.  In addition the first outer section is glued on as well.  Note how it is much wider than the center length.  This will allow you to draw and MATCH the curve of the transom when viewed from above.  I am not really stressing the sanding of char here because that will be taken care of once you reduce those outer pieces.   You will be reducing them to the same width while maintaining the same graceful curve.
 

Once you finish both sides, you can sand it all with a fine grit sandpaper to prep for painting.  Then paint the whole thing black.   Sanding made a lot of dust so remember to clean that all away before you start painting.  You want the best quality painted surface as possible.
 
Here are some pictures after the cap was completed and painted.  This really ties everything together well.
 

 


 

 
 
 

Working my way through chapter nine.
 
First, I made up the belfry from the laser cut parts. This involved some very fussy work, particularly with the really tiny bits of molding. I finished it with a coat of Wipe-on poly and added the bell and brass handle. The belfry was then pinned and glued in place.
 
Next, I added the breasthook. It required some shaping to fit the contour of my bow and was painted red and glued in place. I also added the two ringbolts and two spanshackles to the deck. The spanshackles were bent around a piece of 1/4" stipwood as a former to get uniform size and shape.
 
Lastly, I made up the belfry rail, using the laser cut  rails and timber heads. The timberheads were filed to shape. The assembly was painted black and glue in place.
 
This leaves the catheads and forecastle rail to be done.
 
Bob
 
 

Fits like a glove! Beautiful and precise work, Mark!

So I gave some thought to Gregory's observation on opposing pump crews, and I agree that they must have worked in cadence with one up and one down, makes sense, so no one had busted knuckles. But I wasn't there, thank God, so who knows for sure...
Pics are of new crew members in the raw, no paint yet. On the high stroke. 
I will wait till much later to make the decision as to whether these guys will make the cut.

It looks good to my eye. Just keep a close eye on those butt joints. 

Hi...

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I received my chapter nine parts, downloaded the monograph chapter, and finally got back to work after a long break. I added the quarterdeck inner planking, prepainted red. I then added the various cap rail parts after painting them black. The laser cut parts are great and make the work very straightforward. I sanded, filled and resanded the various joints and then repainted those areas. 
 
Bob

Just a quick update....Today I completed the qdeck rail on the starboard side.   Uneventful and all parts were laser cut.
 
I will detail the step by step.  All Parts are laser cut in groups.  I thought it would be easiest to build if completed in sections.  The laser cut parts for each group are labelled as such...M-1 and O-1 and L are the parts for the first section....then working your way aft you will use the parts M-2 and O-2 for the second section etc.
 
The first section of rail is the most finicky but I will try and explain.
 
The first section of rail (parts L, M-1 and O-1)  
First I glued the various parts together in the photo below.  Just like the fcastle rail,  finish the timberheads on all four sides.  Then glue the fancy curved pieces to the notched rails so after painting them black you wont see the seams.  

Once painted black, the first lower section was dry fit on the drift in the waist.  Dont glue it on yet.
 
But you will also notice in that same photo,  the longer post and short post on the qdeck sheer.  These are actually painted ahead of time and glued in position.  I found it easier to have these glued in place so the the assemble behind it can be slipped into position.  This is the other assemble we made earlier.
 

To complete this first section of the fancy rail, dry fit this section on the cap rail.  Dont glue it on yet.  
See below.  Note how the forward end connects with the lower rail on the drift.   These should look like one continuous rail.  I added some wiggle room so you can sand the aft end of the lower rail so it will be flush.   That is why you shouldnt glue any of them in yet.  Mark it with a pencil and sand the aft end until its flush and looks like one rail.  This will be easier to understand as you guys are also doing it...I understand that it is difficult to write about but you will see what I mean once you get to this step.  
 
When you get everything to fit nicely,  you can glue it all in position permanently.

Then moving aft it gets easier.  Each additional group just contains two longer uprights, the rail, and two timberheads.  
The photo below shows on of these sections already completed.  This was section 2.  Section 3 of the rail is in progress.
 

In the same photo above you will see the two longer uprights painted and glued in position.  Again,  I found it easier to complete this way.  Behind it you can see the center section with the timberheads waiting to be inserted between the two long uprights.
 
One NOTE....the longer upright in each group (in this case section 3) are different lengths.  The uprights get shorter as the work their way aft.  Make sure you glue them into position in the correct order.  Shorter ones are aft.  
 
Then add the center assembly which has been already painted.  Also make sure its facing the correct direction.   It will only fit one way.  The timberheads should be vertical and as such have angled bottoms.  Make sure each upright and timberhead are vertical and because of the angled bottoms facing the correct way.
 
The photo below shows the center inserted...
 

Continue in this fashion for all five sections of the rail.  Then the top rail can be added.  It comes in two sections. On fancy piece on the forward end and a long length of rail to the transom.  I found it easier to attach both pieces together and sand them.  Then pre aint it black.   You will have to adjust the aft end to fit against the transom stern frame.
 
Also note the fixed block that sits on the cap rail against the transom.  Your rail in the fifth and final section sits on this block.  A small laser disc is glued into the slot of the fixed block.
 

This can be finicky but manageable if done a section at a time.  Its not a plastic kit so you will have tweak the angles and shift some timberheads to get them to look just right.  Remember the timberheads and uprights on this rail should be vertical.   Make sure the longer uprights are all the proper height which they should be before you put that top rail on.  You dont want a wavy top rail.  So DONT sand their lengths at all.  They are all precision laser cut to the proper lengths.  Test the top rail before gluing it on.
 


This is a task that requires that you go slow....there are a lot of things to watch out for which wouldnt make any sense at all to you if I wrote about them now.  But once you start building this rail please dont hesitate to ask me a lot of questions.
 
Any questions or comments??
 
 

Hi All,
 
Well I've finally completed all the eye bolts and split rings!!!! They have all been added to the bulwarks except where the hanging knees go. That completes chapter 6 and on to chapter 7. Whew,
 
I have sanded the char off all the cherry quarter deck beams. Then cut them and temporarily set them in place. It feels good to cut and sand wood again!
 

 

 
 

N Thank you JJ, My plan is to use wood for color. Thank you all for the likes.
During the Holliday break I completed planking the bulwarks, added the spirketting, clamps, and the panels for te cabin.  Before adding the false deck, I finished and placed the ladders. I used cherry for the counter planks, coamings, mast and capstan partners.  The base plate for the stove was painted to simulate slate/blue-stone.  The stone color was selected to add some of the green color of the freezes in the deck.  After painting the bulwark red, I added the margin plank.  I used holly and follow the plans for the scarf joins.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next, I will plank the deck with holly.  The freezes will be completed after that.
Best,
G

Metal work and Blackening
I decided to “cheat” when it came to the bolts and have used two different sizes of brass nails left over from kits various to represent all of the bolt heads. Similarly, left over eye bolts were used for the bar retaining pins, and I found some chain sculling around in the spare parts box as well. The only thing I did make were the eyebolts that secure the bar pin chains to the centre of the drumhead.
 
There have been many discussions on this forum regarding blackening and I have tried various of them over the years. For blackening brass, my go-to product has become Jax Pewter Black, which claims to work with pewter, lead, brass, bronze, copper, tin-lead alloys, and solders. The key to success with this product (for me) has been to NOT dip or soak the parts to be blackened in the solution. Rather, by using a small bristle paint brush, the solution is “rubbed” onto the surface of the part, and then rinsed in distilled water. By using this method, I have found that the blackening does not flake or rub off. Here are all of the metal parts blackened and ready for installation. For the nails/bolts, only the heads needed blackening as the rest won’t be seen.
 

 
Final Assembly (P/N 1000)
All of the wooden parts received two coats of Kunos Oil, wiped on and buffed off immediately. This has left a smooth to the touch finish without too much sheen (more coats = more sheen). With all the metal work blackened, final assembly was a pretty straight forward process. I opted to use 5-min epoxy to secure all of the bolts etc, rather than CA (which I really hate using).
 
So here are some final shots of the completed project:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
This has been a fun little project that presents more than a few challenges for modellers of all capabilities. I’d like to thank Toni for all her work in making this project available. I'd also like to make a special thanks to Tom (Used to Sail), whose log was a great source of additional information, as well for the occasional PM conversation along the way. Thanks also to all who have stopped by, offered kind comments and/or hit the like button.
 

Work on the bulwark planking underway - then I have to decide if I’m going to paint it and add the fancy laser cut panels for the main cabins or not. I’m not a great painter but I’m leaning towards it for this model and trying to improve that skill set too.
 
ben

I got to the point of building the gun ports and realized I'd have to start over from scratch; too many early mistakes. So, I threw it out and started over (after scavenging the keel). I'm now almost as far along on the second build as I was with the first attempt. I built a sanding jig and, by cracky, I didn't break a single bulkhead when sanding.

Recently temporarily slowed down the progress, rest a few days do not want to make themselves very tired. With the Beijing Winter Olympics and winter vacation approaching, I will have more than a month of vacation to focus on the next step. Thank you for your attention.
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Hi Michael,
I am scratchbuilding this exact model in the same 1:48 scale, following the books by J. Boudriot.
It is a BIIIG puppy! If you want me to send you exact dimentions, I willl do it. Suffice it to say now, you would absolutely neccesarily need a separate space (a workshop of some kind) to build it. Kitchen table will not do it!!! And prepare yourself for YEARS of work!
If you want to build it exactly like the books describe it, it is a monumental task! But, it is doable, especially now that the addendum (all frame profiles and the keel) is available from Ancre. When I started to build it, this addendum was not available, so I had to hand draw all missing profiles, since Boudriot only shows the so called, station frames (every 4th). It took a long time to draw all of them by hand, since I did not own a computer program.
There is LOOOOTS of wood cutting, sanding and glueing, so several power tools are a must!
 
Right now I am approaching the running rigging stage and sewing sails from thin muslin.  Here is a handful of randomly selected pics of this model.
Regards,
Thomas

Hello everybody and a happy new year!!
Thank you all for the likes and comments. In the last days I finished chapter 7. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Matthias
 
 

Hello, everyone. This is the 2021’s last update. I’ll see you in 2022.