Captain Poison

Making a little progress. Yes I know I didn't paint the stem black. Just seems a shame to paint over all the joinery on the stem

Bonjour à vous,
pour faire un suivi de ce chantier de la Belle Poule,je  viens apporter à ceux qui peuvent être intéressés, une suite de photo qui se rajoutent à ce dossier pour actualiser les travaux en cours.
Si l'avancement reste trop modeste à mon goût, la motivation reste bien présente.
 
 
Hello to you, to follow up on this La Belle Poule site, I am bringing to those who may be interested, a series of photos which are added to this file to update the work in progress. If the advancement remains too modest for my taste, the motivation remains very present.

Foredeck
 
Pulpit with coxcoamed rails attached, anchor, chain and rope fabricated, barrels fitted in place. floats, netting and storage box. The latter was made as a red plastic crate full of stores, and cover made from rolled flat ‘green stuff’.  Port pilot house window fitted part open to aid visibility of interior.
I have included the occasionally seen canvas covered box on the port forward locker deck, and an upside down ‘Ocean Institute’ box I saw in a photo of Hoopers kit that never made it into the film.
Again thanks to Holden8702 for supplying the resin barrels, four of which feature, and my best attempts at a turned and carved hardwood barrel make the fifth.
The lockers all open, and I’ve taken a guess at the contents on the one that is open in the photo. I’ve added some extra ropes and chain, jerry cans for fuel, and miscellaneous stores for effects. I hope Joe Alves would approve of the extra details.
Rigging attachments fitted to hull, and all weathered for effect.
The parallax of close up photography makes comparison shots difficult, and I really need to learn a lot more about this in the future.
Waterline and finished full boat shots to follow, when I can get my head around the Admirals digital camera!
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
 

I've shaped the bolsters for the hawse holes and wash cant for under the lower cheek.
 

 

 
Also the decorative molding that is on the stem in front of the figure head was added. Drilling the hawse holes was next. I drilled a small pilot hole on an upward angle from outboard in. If you drilled straight you would be way to low. After I was happy with the location and angle with the pilot hole I used a 1/8" bit in a pin vice. I then used a round file to enlarge the holes. The inside of the holes were painted black and then pencil graphite was used to to simulate the lead pipe. Lastly the the large knee was added inboard above the hawse holes. 
 

 

 

 
Lastly I did the inboard cleats and stag horn.
 

 

 
I thinks that completes chapter 5!  On to Chapter 6 and 24 gun carriages to build. 
 
 
 

Work continues on chapter nine with some of the forecastle planking completed. W-O-P has not been applied which makes it harder to see the butt joints. Hopefully you will see enough to get the idea. That center piece behind the bollards was made that way which makes it easier to hold. The grain runs port and starboard. This makes it easier to slice off that long tab after the glue dries.
 

 

 
Mike

Starting on hair brackets tonight. Getting laser char off of such small parts is quite a challenge. A before and after shot

@druxey
Hello,
first of all I would like to thank you for the appreciation of my work.
Of course, I'll be happy to show you how I make the thimbles. I hope that the following pictures explain this as far as possible.
Should there be any unanswered questions, please don't be shy and just ask.

 

 

 

Hi...

Hello everybody,
 
This weekend I proceeded with the building of the doors for the front bulkhead. And I finally installed the bulkhead-arrangement to the model.
The doors were built the same way as the rest of the front-panel: inside ivory, outside boxwood. For the windows I needed something more stable because of the glazing bars on both sides. After looking around a while I decided to cut a ferrero-rocher-box into peaces, they are from acryl and really thin an nice. Perhaps 0,3 mm thick. That worked quite well.
 

 

 

 

 

 
After finishing this, I took the model out of the workshop and made some photos, because some prominent visitors came around to have a look at the great cabin. I think it was Tomas Slade himself.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Matthias
 
 
 
 

Corrected the upper sides of the transom filler pieces I forgot to sand before glueing them in. Checked with the transom piece if I’m still within reasonable boundaries, symmetrical  and even.
When the bowsprit hole in the bollards piece and in place, I now finally will finish chapter 1 this weekend.

Continuation 2 of 3

The additional ornament on the stern gallery was another story. As the curve was delicate, I splitted it up in 2 halves.
Next pics show my woodcurving skills are limited, less to say equal to zero
 
The decoration strips under the window are an assembly of 2 styrene strips : a half round 1,5 mm and  a 1x2mm strip

Hi,
 
At last some progress.
Mark, your remark refering to the stern shifted priorities.
As the stern at both extremities dictates the position of the quarterdeckgalleries, why not seize the stern gallery?
 
Well, after quite some trouble, hesitation, different approaches, here it is.
Still some finishing required, not perfect and most of all, not by the book but I an settle with it.
 
 
 

More paint color choices on the wheel as well.  Here are some photos.  For the contemp. model as you can see, the supports, drum and rim of the wheel are red.  The spokes are ivory.  I may be doing the same except leaving the spokes natural boxwood.
 


and some winnie parts for the wheel being tested and contemplating color choices as well. This just taken with my
Phone.
 

 
 
For other cont. models its similar but there is some variation.
 
Minerva...which has a double wheel.   Winnie does not have a double wheel.   But you can see how the supports are black in this case.
 

And Amazon...all read with ivory spokes again.  Again a double wheel.
 

The ships wheel for the Winnie is sold separately and is already available.  Sold one per package.  For those guys waiting for the next chapter this is something that could be bought and made in advance.  Its just the wheel as the other parts will be part of chapter 10. Buy the larger 1 1/4” wheel for Winnie.
 
The wheel kit is built just like other master model builders build them.  There are lots of small parts but it makes a beautiful boxwood wheel as you can see.  You just need to go really slow and take your time.  If you rush through the wheel mini kit …it will look a mess.  So take your time and practice.
 




 
 

So far so good I think. On the starboard side I used temporary double sided tape to attach the template.
With this I was able to mark off the location of the cheeks and hair bracket. I had to make some minor
adjustments to the stem and figurehead to get everything in an alignment that I liked. 
 

 
The frieze on the checks was left a little long to overlap onto the hair bracket.
 

 
Once the hair bracket was in place I used a sharp scalp blade to cut the frieze.
 

 
There will be a lot of cleaning and paint touch up once I'm finished. On to the port side now.
 
 

The bridle ports are now finished and permanently in place. I'm glad there aren't any more to do.
 

 

 
Next I'll start on checks, hair brackets and hawse holes but first I had to paint the upper portion of the stem.
 

 
Between coats I sanded the faces of the multiple pieces with some 320 grit sandpaper.
These pieces are all cut from Cherry wood and part of the chapter 5 package.
 

 
 
 
 

Thank You for posting.
 
Today chapter ten was started.  You saw that I had already planked the qdeck along the bulwarks after adding the margin planks.  So before I could plank down the center I had to get the coamings all made.
 
The coamings are build exactly like the others we built.   They are laser cut for you.  Just build them using the 3/64" thick right angle template as before.   Round off the corners......yada....yada....and add the cambered gratings.  Two packages were enough to do these three.
 
But dont glue all three down yet.  Only glue the forward most grating and coaming in first.  This is very important.
 

As you can see above, the first coaming was positioned and then it could be used to help position the capstan partners.   These are also laser cut for you.  But because so much depends on where you placed you beams.....where you placed your lower capstan, etc....
 
I laser cut the three parts for the capstan partners a bit longer on both ends (forward and aft).  This will allow you to adjust to suit you model and get the round opening directly centered over the lower capstan.   Then trim the aft side so it falls on the deck beam nicely.  The aft end of the partners should cover half the beam it sits on.
 
Then the other coamings can be glued in position.  Make sure to center them down the qdeck of course.
 

In that same photo above you can also see the mizzen bitts.   These must be glued to the forward side of the beam before you start planking.  So these were made up next.  They are laser cut but you must finish the top timberhead shape as is usually the case.  There is a hole laser cut through these as well.  They will accept a 1/16 dia. rod.   Use either brass, or even styrene or wood.  It doesnt matter.   You will have to clean out the holes with a 1/16" drill bit first as the laser doesnt cut a perfect right angle.  So I made this hole slightly smaller as a pilot hole.   Drill them again with a 1/16" bitt and insert the rod.  Use the plans to get their length.
 

Above you can see the bitts pretty good.  But you can also see a modeler's convention for adding the slots for the ships wheel rigging.   This is laser cut in two layers 3/64" thick.   The lower layer is glued between the deck beams first.  It has a laser etched reference for the second final layer.  Just glue it on top like in the photo.  We will plank around this.
 
Finally the planking can commence down the center of the qdeck.   Use your template as a guide like when you planked the fcastle.
 
This will complete the planking or most of it.  We still have the gangways to do but that will be done much later.  You can see I also test fit the upper capstan.  I still have to paint it red and add the metal band.   But its all coming together.   That will be done next along with the pawls....and also the mizzen mast coat.  
 


 

 
With each update she is getting less naked.  Its is starting to fill out nicely with details.  Any questions. On the workbench…

Thanks for the documentary, very interesting with some data that I did not know.

Thank you all for the likes,
I decided to build inboard to give strength to all structures before completing the moldings and freezes.  It will also give me more time to customize the freezes.
I am intentionally mix and matching sedar and sherry wood kits from Chuck's chapter wood installments.  The deck planks are holly.
I build the sherry parts out of the model to ensure they were squared and placed back into the ship (they are not glued yet).
 

 

 

 
Next, I will add the false deck.
Best,
G

With chapter eight completed I thought it would be a good time to post some photos. Please excuse the dust.

 

 

 
Mike

Thanks for the documentary, very interesting with some data that I did not know.

An interesting film also with english subtitles:
 
 
Not only British admirals wandered through the landscape with acorns in their pockets ...
 
 

Hello, thank you very much your likes. I share with you what the mail brought this week.

Hi