allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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The tutorials here at MSW by Chuck Passaro and David Antscherl give two great methods for preforming the planks and both work well. If the plank is either pre-bent with a form and heat or spiled, it can be held in place for about 30 or 45 seconds with finger pressure when using PVA and will hold. No clamps needed if the planks are properly shaped and bent ahead of time. Allan -
For those who ever have doubts about silk span for sails, your model is a great testament to how well sails can be done, to scale, with that material, especially compared to the out-of-scale sails we usually see because they are made of cloth. It is a shame to see so many otherwise beautifully done models ruined when rigged with cloth sails. Allan
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Yes you are! I think all of us get better if we keep trying new methods. I suggest you purchase David Antscherl's booklet ($8) on making sails from Sea Watch Books before Bob closes it down which will be sooner than later. For Victory, assuming smaller than 1:48, there is no way cloth sails and sewing them will look realistic as there is no cloth with a high enough TC or sewing methods that will be to scale. There is at least one well done You Tube video on making sails with silkspan, artist's tubed acrylics and matte medium with slight variations on the methods in the booklet mentioned above. Allan
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Have you considered silk span for sails for future projects as the cloth scales and stitching are a impossible to make to scale? There are some excellent booklets and on line tutorials on doing this. Allan
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The drawing on page 174 in Longridge shows tapered battens and he also uses word tapered in describing them. I have no idea if he was correct or if there were indeed variations from ship to ship as there are from source to source. Allan
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Lovely work Will Tornados and even waterspouts are exciting to watch from afar. Seeing a big waterspout cross your bow, not so much fun, and I speak from experience. Allan
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I really love this project. Very nice change to large scale yet manageable end result size wise. Allan
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Your build is one of those that is worth watching from start to finish,,,,,, more than once. Allan
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Sweet!!! Hope to see your next scratch in the near future. Allan
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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
allanyed replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Stergios I had never thought about whether the horses and stirrups were tarred or untarred lines, and after a bit of research yours are absolutely correct for the time period for your model. No wonder that the seamen had blackened soles. Well done! Allan -
Patrick, Great joinery throughout! One thing to consider for the future, although fixable now if you want to do so, the wales taper in thickness at the bow to the same thickness as the surrounding planks so they do not stand proud of the adjacent planks where they fit to the rabbet. Thanks for all the photos and explanations on your build log. Allan
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The anchor would be 3 inches long based on a twelve foot full scale, so 2 7/8 seems to be certainly reasonable if the anchor you wish to purchase is of the proper design for that era? Depends mostly on how accurate you want to be so it is totally up to you. In the end, in all likelihood, only you will know if it is a tiny bit short. Allan
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Doors
allanyed replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Don, Alas, frustration is part and parcel to model ship building at times, especially in scratch building. Even kits can be frustrating as has been so often seen in the build logs, but it is all part of the learning process. I have never built a kit but spent the equivalent amount of money of several big kits on books and even with my library built up over the years, I still get frustrated a few times each session at the bench. I am in the process of learning Fusion 360 and you cannot imagine the frustration I have gone through the past week or so, not to mention the frustration with me that a fellow member here has probably gone through trying to teach me the basics. It will come together. I had my first success with Fusion when a bulb went off in my head when I awoke this very morning and conquered the latest drawing task and the few minutes of satisfaction far outweighed the hours of frustration. You are some months into your project and have made huge progress, so keep at it! Allan -
Brian What scale are you working? Tx Allan
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Doors
allanyed replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Just remember the old joke, about no screen doors on a submarine. -
Doors
allanyed replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Don, Many of the members do a TON of research on things like this before asking. I think it is easier at times to ask here, but honestly, there is sooooo much to be learned by researching as much as you can before hand and the answers could be pages long. As mentioned before, every time I go to my books looking for an answer to a question like yours I learn ten other things that will all come into play sometime in the future. I think you have the start of a good library, but consider Goodwin (Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War) and Lavery (Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War) if you don't already have them. There are others as well, but for me these have been extremely helpful. If you are going to get into rigging for the 18th century, seriously consider Lees as well. Everyone here loves to help all the other members when they can, but as Druxey pointed out, please don't expect a simple answer when there is none to be given because the question is so broad. Allan -
Doors
allanyed replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Don, Which doors? Doors to cabins, through bulkheads at the QD and FC break, removeable bulkheads, beakhead bulkhead pantries, storage lockers, etc? Bulkheads and the set up of doors and even how they opened varied. When in the 18th century? There were many changes in 1757. Allan -
Brian, The anchor has more of a relation to the weight of the ship than anything else. Eagle was about 500 tons, so you can probably use the scantlings for anchors that Brian Lavery gives on page 33 of Arming and Fitting even though it is for British ships. The physics should be the same regardless of nationality assuming they have the same basic design at that time. He shows that the length of the shank for the largest anchor on a 625 ton vessel was 14 feet 2 inches, and for a vessel of 364 tons the shank was 12 feet 2 inches long. The length of the arms would be about 5 feet each and 4 feet each respectively. What scale is your model? You can do a simple ratio between 625 or 364 to 500 and use the lengths above to come up with the size anchor you need then scale it to your model scale. Maybe consider making your own if you want it to be the correct size. There are a number of drawings of anchors and anchor stocks on RMG Collections site that may also help as well as the detailed drawings and dimensions given by Lavery.
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I know this is a bit off track, but we used to put snails that we would catch in the yard into a bucket of corn meal for two to three days to let them clean themselves up before cooking them. Can't see why it would not work for brass as well. 😄 Allan
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THANK YOU PAUL!!! I have been very lucky to have a fellow member give me my first two lessons via Skype and I feel like I am making some progress. I will be practicing over the next few days before getting into more extrusions in our next session but my prof is a very patient man. I will definitely check out the tutorial by Lars. Thanks again! Allan
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Permission to board from the Finger Lakes
allanyed replied to Freezing Parrot's topic in New member Introductions
A most warm welcome Mike. Yes, do please keep a log on your upcoming project. Before purchasing any kit, be sure to browse the build log sections here at MSW regarding kits. Some are excellent in detail and instructions including some designed by members at MSW who have actually built a lot of models so know what is needed. Others look glorious on the box cover, but when looking at the models themselves they leave a lot to be desired in actually using a good wood species for modeling, accurately scaled parts, rigging line quality and realism, easy follow instructions and more. Looking forward to seeing your work!! Allan -
Adding to the many wishes for a full and complete recovery. We will all miss your posts. Don't know about you, but with some down time available from making sawdust, I enjoy researching future potential projects as much as the actual build. Much harder to make mistakes when turning pages or looking through the 'net for contemporary information. Good luck Allan
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Thanks Pat.
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Mort, Looks like your gratings to scale which is very nice to see!! Not many are achieving this so kudos to you. Maybe I missed it, but how did you make the checker pattern? I usually draw it in CAD then print on paper and it works well. As an obvious fan of Victory, I hope you and your build followers have signed on to the Trafalgar TV series as shown in my signature below. It promises to be a big deal for all of us. Allan
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I am using a lot of Liquitex gold acrylic on the Charles Galley build and it is good. But, as with most glittery gold paints, it can be easily rubbed to a duller looking coat if handled too much before getting a protective top coat.
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