allanyed

On 4/15/2023 at 4:19 PM, RossR said:

This is what I use.

Your planking is extremely neat, but I hope you do not have problems with the glue as contact cement is reportedly short lived compared to other commonly used glues for wood.  This came up on another post the other day so I did a bit of research.    One of many similar comments that I read   --- Over time, rubber cement loses its "stickiness." Items bonded with rubber cement will gradually just "let go" of each other. The adhesive does not simply evaporate; rather, it dries out and leaves a brittle residue where the pieces come apart.     

Allan

3 hours ago, Igmar said:

I like the process of meticulous, precise assembling of a scale copy.

Welcome to MSW Igmar.   I think the process of meticulous work is in our blood.    My father was a master of pysanky (one of his eggs below) which is as detailed as our ship modeling.  I hope to see some of your work posted here at MSW.    Allan

x

5 hours ago, jbcallender said:

I'm really disappointed in the contact glue method. 

I hope you do not have additional problems down the road.   From doing a little research it SEEMS rubber contact cement is not highly recommended for anything permanent.  One of many comments that I read   --- Over time, rubber cement loses its "stickiness." Items bonded with rubber cement will gradually just "let go" of each other. The adhesive does not simply evaporate; rather, it dries out and leaves a brittle residue where the pieces come apart.   

Allan

7 hours ago, druxey said:

it's easier to add the stop than cut planking back neatly!

The more I think about this, you may be right Druxey.  The key word is as you wrote,  neatly.  Cutting back the planking on both sides and the bottom of many dozens of gun ports exactly 0.5mm or 0.75 depending on scale would be a real challenge.    

Allan

Very well explained Mark, thank you.  This would certainly be easier from a modeling standpoint as well as real world for POF.  
Allan

You can see the linings very clearly on a number of contemporary models.  Note that the linings fayed to the frames rest on top the lining on the bottom sill.  There are usually no linings on the top sill.  Based on contemporary model, there are sometimes no linings in the ports which carried no lids such as those on the upper deck at the waste as in the third pic.  Pics are from Preble Hall, Annapolis.

Allan

7 hours ago, Boccherini said:

Ed Tosti's Young America log is monumental, trying to find a specific topic is a lucky dip.

Use the search tool and it makes things go quickly.  I typed in a few key words and came up with a number of posts in Ed's build log, including #3079 that might be a good one for you.   

Allan

8 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

toes, tocs, I don't know.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Craig,  I know of TOCS but only in the sense of modern terms, the theory of constraints which is a management paradigm😁   Looking further at the "c's" and "e's" in the contract, it could very well be toc versus toe.  Either way I am at a loss.   It sounds like flying is new stuff and ground is used material which makes sense, but what exactly is toe, toc, tow?   It really is not an issue for our model scales, but I did find it to be an interesting item none the less.

Dean,

To me the word looks nothing like tow, BUT, you may be right based on what I found when looking up TOW.    MIddle English - touw   from Old English tow  (“spinning”) in compounds, e.g. towcraeft, towhus, towlic, from Old Norse tó (“uncleansed wool”), Dutch touw (rope)   

Bob Just saw your post  after I wrote this, so my follow up post is a bit late, but maybe fits in with your dissertation which looks to be spot on.  Thank you very much!   

Allan

Thanks Keith.   This model is way too big for our house but it still might be interesting to go see it.  I will PM the person that posted.

Allan

Hi Grant,

Sorry, but I doubt the information from Lees will be worthwhile.  Hope you find some contemporary based data.  There are rope sizes but not chain sizes.  Looking at equivalents on line, it SEEMS chain with links made of material 1/2 the diameter of the rope diameter would be appropriate.  This does not necessarily give the link width or length though.    I hope someone has the data as it will be interesting to see how rope and chain compare in this case.

Does the topic or the book on Ed Tosti's Young America build go into this?

Allan

If I had room I would take a drive over there as the price is certainly very attractive, but hard to tell from the photo what kind of shape it is in,  They do not provide provenance, authenticity or quality.   

Allan  

I am not kidding, I am looking for an answer on this one.  It is part of the caulking description in a 1776 contract for a British sixth rate  The entire phrase (the spelling is as in the contract) is

The white ocham to be from flying & not from ground toes or decaid White ropes.   

A part of the original is below.  

TIA
Allan

Hi Grant

What nation/ship/era?  James Lees goes into describing chain slings and truss pendants and falls on the lower yards for British war ships after about 1850 but these may not be appropriate for your ship.

Allan

5 hours ago, Kolouch said:

You can try blocks from Radek Beseda:

From the website it does not appear that he makes internally stropped blocks which is what Bill would require for his late 19th century fishing schooner.  Do you know if Radek also has internally stropped blocks?

Thanks

Allan

Looking forward to seeing your work on a build log one day soon Pam.

Again, warm welcome to MSW

Allan

Depends on the nation, era, size, yard &c.   There are hundreds of photos of contemporary models on the RMG Collections web site that you can see and get some ideas.  The first photo below is  a contemporary model of a 5th rate at Preble Hall & shows a bit of detail.  Couple others from Preble follow as well.  If you do a search at RMG you can see the Lowestoft, 20, (1723)  It appears to have some sort of simple deco.  Other contemporary models have no decoration in that location.

Allan

Assuming  your vessel is from before the use of copper sheathing and  it would have a bottom coated with white stuff this has been discussed here at MSW and may be a little help for you.  One such thread is at

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2798-hull-white-stuff-on-17th-century-ship/ 

I doubt that there is one exact "right white" color but unbleached titanium dioxide mixed with a little yellow ochre and/or burnt umber should work.  Other members may have more details for you.  In the end, the paints were not made in a factory like PPG or Sherwin Williams with color standards to be met for every batch for every ship so the color could have varied a little from ship to ship.   Hopefully someone has more details for you.

Allan

Not knowing your current name, I'll go with your former,  so...

Hi Pat 😀

Warm welcome to MSW.   I wish I had such a group (and the internet) when I was in torment during the early stages of learning ship modeling.   Consider yourself a very lucky guy/gal.   

Allan

Sort of like a long lost friend that returns home after being gone for too long and everyone, including me, is very happy you are back.

Allan

The below may help although it does not show the side supports. I have seen contemporary drawings that show them and others that do not.    Why the kit would have something so thin is odd as the other items in the kit seems to be done so well.  Perhaps there were two pieces that were supposed to be sandwiched together with the sheave between???   IF you are mounting the launch on the ship, the davit would not be in place so removing it may be an alternative way to go.

Allan

43 minutes ago, wmherbert said:

I've been building late 1800's fishing schooners.

Internally stropped blocks are likely the most appropriate. There are drawings and detailed list of block sizes for several fishing schooners including  Grampus 1885, and Columbia in Chapelle's American Fishing Schooners Pages 341-347, not to mention a LOT of other details on construction, rigging, et al.   

One example on a model follows, it being Ernestina 1894

Allan

Bill

Did you read the new post from Syren re: blocks that was posted by Chuck Passaro the other day?  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33948-syren-ship-model-company-news-updates-and-infopart-2/page/4/#comments  post number 95 on page 4.  Look at those blocks and compare to those that you have from MS.  Night and day if a realistic looking block is important to you.  

Allan 

Lovely build!  One question/comment, hope that is OK,  The davit for working the ship's anchors looks thin.  Looking at contemporary launch drawings they were typically 7.5 to 8 inches wide (3mm at your scale), had a roller at the outboard end, and were supported on the sides by the runners so would be nearly touching them.  From the photos the one in the model  looks closer to 1mm.  I hope this is not coming across as picky but it sort of jumped out for me from a functionality point.   

Allan

Every time I see a Liberty Ship project it reminds of Edwin O'Hara, one of 142 cadets from the US Merchant Marine Academy killed while sailing as cadets during WWII.  They are the only cadets from any US Federal academy that were killed while sailing as cadets during the war.  The story of O'Hara is worth reading. https://thewildgeese.irish/profiles/blogs/wwii-hero-edwin-o-hara-the-honor-but-not-the-medal  I vividly remember the painting in the article hanging in O'Hara Hall at the USMMA.  Photo of O'Hara's ship, the SS Stephen Hopkins is below.   Acta Non Verba    

Allan

Tiziano,

I am very impressed that you only made one extra spoke on each set.  I tend to make several knowing I will lose at least one under the work bench and/or break one along the way.😀😀  Are you using a mill or some other unit to mill the grooves?    I don't remember if you and I discussed this when we met last year but for those without a mill, a mini table drill press to route out the grooves when making these parts can be used.  It is not really a recommended use of a press due to the types of bearings, but it worked out very well.

Allan

Allan