allanyed
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A very warm welcome to MSW Mimmo Allan
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Welcome to MSW Johann. I have fond memories of Chile, especially Valparaiso, for the fishing, the Casino de Vina del Mar and other fun stuff. Allan
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Yessir, it does. While the taper, as you move forward from the head of the stem, is not difficult to make, the narrowing from top to bottom may be problematic. While the tapering from the stem to the foremost edge of the knee of the head is quite noticeable I would guess that few viewers will know about or notice if the vertical tapering is not present so maybe best to leave it alone. Out of curiosity, what is the width of the keel? Establishment scantlings call for a width of 12" midships where it is actually 12" square, 10.5" wide at the stem, and 7.5" at the stern post. At your scale of 1:100 -- 3mm midships, 2.7 mm at the stem, and about 2 mm at the stern post. This may all be of little importance for now, but maybe something to consider for future builds. Allan -
Picture and a 1000 words.......... The dimensions in the lower sketch are for a 20 gun ship built to the 1719 English Admiralty Establishment, but varied very little in later years. Allan
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Looking good Tennfox! Don't forget to taper the knee of the head. This is is not commonly shown or explained in kits, Syren and Vanguard being exceptions. There may be others, but most are unaware or ignore this, resulting in the forward most part of the knee of the head being much too broad. In the case of Greyhound (Protector), assuming the stem is sided 14" at the head as specified in the 1719 Establishment for a 20 gun ship, the knee of the head would taper to about 5.5 inches full scale (0.055" -- 1.4mm at 1:100) Allan
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Your model is a masterpiece in every respect. Allan
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Your blocks look nice and they bring up a couple questions for me. What is a good paint to coat resin (if these are resin) blocks? Also, can these be treated in a sanding drum like wooden blocks can be shaped with a sanding drum to reduce or eliminate the flat areas? Allan
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As you know there was some good discussion on carriages in https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36122-help-with-9lb-cannon-carraiges-long-9s/#comment-1031305 Also, The following chart MAY be helpful, but it does not show bracket lengths for various barrel lengths. The other dimensions might be helpful though. Allan
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What ship and year? Blocks from the 18th century are very different from blocks of the later 19th century for example. Your photo shows externally stropped blocks as well as internally stropped blocks which came later. There is also the matter of single stropped and double stopped blocks, clue blocks, sheet blocks &c. For blocks up to at least 1860 pages 162 to 167 in James Lees Masting and Rigging English Ships of War there are very good drawings of many types that you might need to buy or make. Lees also give dimensional ratios for some blocks. Allan
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Your Indy continues to be an inspiration! If you have not already seen them you may find the plans of 28 foot and 32 foot pinnaces from RMG helpful as well. ZAZ7175 (low res) on the RMG Collections site and ZAZ173 (High res with list of scantlings on the Wiki Commons site.) The RMG plans are a little later than Indy so it might be have changed but ZAZ7175 shows every thwart has one thole set, alternating from port to starboard rather than two sets of tholes on every other thwart as it was single banked. Allan
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WELCOME TO MSW!!!!! English please as many members do not speak Spanish. Google translator or other on-line translation websites work really well for the most part. The moderators will likely remove your email address in your post to save you from spammers. You can also send a private message to other members by clicking on their name if you do not want to post for the entire membership. The symposium sounds like a great gathering😀. Allan I hope the following translation is close. Hello Isidro. My name is Guillermo Gefaell and I am a naval engineer. Your father was a naval engineer and worked in Barreras in the 70s? If so, I met him and I liked him very much. I would like to contact you to inform you about a Symposium on Historic Ships that we have organized and that will take place at the Madrid Naval School on April 24 and 25. My email is XXXXXXXXXXXX A cordial greeting.
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VERY NICE model. Question for your followers: How do you get the reef points to hang straight down so they are not sticking out away from the sails? I have had some success wetting the line in diluted white glue (or lacquer) and weighing each down with a small clip until it dries. If anyone has an alternative, that would be of great interest. Thanks in advance Allan
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Kai, LOVELY first build! Changing to the Syren blocks was a wise decision. Question regarding the gammoning as I have not seen it done this way on any contemporary model or any drawings based on contemporary sources. Is this a kit instruction or was this actually done this way in some cases? Thanks Allan
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Bienvenu Mic! Hope to see your work in the near future. Allan
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3D Printing Cannons in Resin
allanyed replied to thibaultron's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
64 I did a couple desk top Armstrong Fredericks in 1:24 and it made for a nice change of pace type project. Give a shout if you want the carriage drawing. Allan
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Story For the future, there are 11 high res plans of gunboats on the Wiki Commons RMG site as well as launches https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich. There are more in low res on the RMG Collections including a rigged armed launch. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-85090 Allan
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3D Printing Cannons in Resin
allanyed replied to thibaultron's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Are you looking for Borgard, Armstrong, Armstrong Frederick, Blomefield or some other cannon pattern and carriages? These were all produced over various periods in the 18th century with obviously some overlap/carryover. Ron has been doing a fantastic job of making the barrel STLs available for 3D printing. The carriages also varied in design and construction. Examples follow. Chart of carriage dimensions from 1768 and 1775 are also attached below. Allan 1775
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If this is for your clipper ship have you studied Ed Tosti's build log for the Young America? Shrouds are shown about page 78 and ratlines, some pages later. Regarding jackstays (are vertical jack stays something different?) you can use the search bar in the build log topic to find his many photos showing jackstays on the yards. Which book is this by Underhill (he wrote quite a few)? Can you please post a picture from figure 92. Allan
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The fenders (skid beams) and steps are on both sides of the ship in most cases that I have seen. Note the two contemporary models from RMG below as just two examples. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of other examples on their website. Allan
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Where ever possible I have gone to copper in place of brass. It is softer, so not applicable for everything, but the beauty is that it can be blackened instantly after being fixed in place with diluted liver of sulfur as this will not stain the wood. Brush on the LoS then brush some clean water and wipe dry. Allan
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There do not appear to be any marks on the bulkheads for the widths of the strakes of planking. It is best explained in the Articles database here at MSW and in the planking videos by Chuck Passaro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Hope you don't mind the right side up pic of your model......😀 Allan
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As most kits do not supply spiled planks, in addition to Mark's suggestion, the four videos by Chuck Passaro on planking will help you with the strip wood most kits provide . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM is part one. The end result should look something like the below. Allan
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Another great reason to forgo cloth sails as there is no cloth or sewing technique that is to scale if smaller than about 1:12 . Silkspan seems to be gaining a bigger following, and with very good reason.
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Laser cannon bracket
allanyed replied to mediocremodeler's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
This looks pretty good! What is the scale? Some kits now have gratings with laser cut holes and they look nice. Maybe include a shallow cut to indicate the run of the battens on top of the ledges as the battens always run fore and aft. Keep in mind that the openings should be no more than about 3" square. A big plus to making the grating first is that you can then fit the coaming and head ledges to fit. If the head ledges and coamings are made first and the gratings sanded to fit, there is the danger of there being open edges as in the second sketch below. Allan
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Laser cannon bracket
allanyed replied to mediocremodeler's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Mediocre Ron's cannon drawings are top shelf and the printed pieces are fantastic. Regarding those for the Connie, did the museum curators offer you any detailed information? Allan
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