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Everything posted by allanyed
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Various applications of 3D drawing
allanyed replied to 3Dships's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
3D You make it look easy, but after your many years of doing this, that seems logical. Not so much for us neophytes. There are a number of articles here at MSW by a number of authors in subjects from basic lines drawings to planking to making various items such as stoves. It would be SUPER if you did one with STLs of various cannon that can be downloaded and then they can be 3D printed in resin. Let me know if this would be of interest to you and I can email you 2D drawings of cannon designs and sizes from about 1675 through about 1815. Cheers Allan- 39 replies
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This of course does not apply to dry bending, but if soaking first, distilled water is a good idea. I have noted slight color changes (staining) from tap water on a few occasions, especially if it is a thicker piece that needs a longer soak. The water around the world varies so this may or may not be an issue everywhere and might have more to do with the type of wood than the water. A wide variety of chemicals are added to drinking water to remove various contaminants. Among them are alum, iron salts, chlorine, fluorides, and others. Just sayin' Allan
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Hi Dave When David Lees wrote The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 Alan Villiers noted in the Foreward on page vi that this is a most useful book for the sailing ship modelmaker and for all students of such ships and their rigging. To that end, Lees includes the order of dressing the masts and yards on page 158. This includes standing rigging attached to the parts of the masts and rigging attached to the yards such as braces, lifts, footropes, &c. In addition, as can seen in most build logs here at MSW, it is pretty much a given that rigging the yards as much as possible before securing to the masts is preferable including the blocks to the trestle trees and yards followed by the foot ropes. Lees does not give an order of dressing for the running rigging but working from inboard to outboard on the model seems to work for most modelers. Perhaps your kit gives some guidance as well. Allan
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Various applications of 3D drawing
allanyed replied to 3Dships's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Welcome to MSW 3Dships, Now that you have come aboard, it would great if you would post a little intro about yourself in the new member forum. Your drawings are terrific! I've struggled just trying to do cannon barrel drawings for various time spans in the 17th and 18th centuries. Sailed the seven seas in the MM? Me too, lo those many years ago. US or other flag? Thanks Allan KP '69- 39 replies
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Dave, Just as an FYI, for the next go around, according to Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance, Volume 2, page 386, 32 pounders and above normally had a double block and single block for the running out and training tackle. For calibers below the 32pounders the running out tackle and training tackle normally had two singles, not a double and single. Allan
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Hi JG There are many places to learn about planking properly, but many members (including me) think a couple of the best and the easiest are here at MSW on the Antscherl spiling piece, Passaro's lining out piece in the Articles data base and Passaro's 3 part video on You Tube. They are not so difficult and they work. For example, your strakes at the stern should run to the stern post rabbet. not the bearding line. I may be wrong on this if you are double planking, but if you look at a contemporary planking expansion drawing you will see how they should lay. Just go to the RMG Collections site and type in planking expansion plans on the search box. There are 16 expansion drawings some of which show both outboard and inboard planking. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/planking expansion drawing Cheers Allan
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Your build is going great, and I hope you do not mind a question. Why do most of us (me included) rig cannon? Am I (are we) just gluttons for punishment? I have yet to find one contemporary model that has any cannon rigging other than breech ropes, and I am not sure they are original. For that matter, the vast majority of hull models and some of the fully rigged models at RMG don't show cannon at all. Just curious 🤪 Allan
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The tutorial for spiling by David Antscherl is in the Articles data base under framing and planking as is the lining off article by Chuck Passaro. https://thenrg.org/resource/articles Note that in the first picture in Chuck's article he is very clear to avoid this unrealistic planking style. All the strakes need to end at the rabbet unless there is one or perhaps two drop strakes. If your model is double planked you have the first layer as a great learning practice before going to the second layer. Allan
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MONTAÑES by Amalio
allanyed replied to Amalio's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Your joinery never ceases to amaze us. Gorgeous workmanship! Allan -
Looking good! For future builds, keep in mind that all of the decks have round up, they do not lay flat. It may be the photos but the decks look to be flat. Check out the build log of the Endeavour by KJackson. modelshipworld.com/topic/31858-hm-bark-endeavour-by-kjackson-occre-154/#comment-902995 where this has been discussed in detail in the last day or so. It appears there are at least a couple kits that forgot to take into account round up/camber which would be found on virtually all ships. Your first layer of hull planking looks to be going well. Will you be tapering the strakes and spiling or hot edge bending? If you have not already studied them, there are excellent tutorials here at MSW teaching proper planking techniques. Allan
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Looks good to me. The contemporary figures I gave and the NRG figures are very close. FWIW, the contemporary figures at 1:54 are as follows: 1719 Establishment Upper deck to round 6.75"/54= 0.125"=3.75 mm Forecastle to round 5.5"/54= 0.102" = 2.6mm Quarter deck to round 6.5"/54=0.120" = 3.06mm Scantlings from the Shipbuilder's Repository, 1788 gives the following for an 18 gun sloop of war (392 tons) Upper deck to round 6"/54=0.11 = 2.82mm Forecastle to round 6"/54=0.11 = 2.82mm Quarter Deck to round 6.5"/54=0.120" = 3.06mm
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I have no idea if these figures apply to Endeavour but for a 24 gun ship, (374 tons) the 1719 Establishment gives the following: Upper deck to round 6.75" Forecastle to round 5.5" Quarter deck to round 6.5" Scantlings from the Shipbuilder's Repository, 1788 gives the following for an 18 gun sloop of war (392 tons) Upper deck to round 6" Forecastle to round 6" Quarter Deck to round 6.5" Allan
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Glad to hear you are on the mend! I really think that if you get the first layer faired with filler or replacement pieces you will have a good chance to get the second layer done without issues if you follow the tutorials on tapering and spiling by David Antcherl and/or the tapering and edge bending process detailed by Chuck Passaro. Allan
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HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48
allanyed replied to AdamA's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
It may have been from a different era but it sure looks good!! Allan -
Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
allanyed replied to KORTES's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I am enjoying your many innovative techniques and thank you for sharing. I hope you and your family are safe. Allan -
The following drawing is based on 23 foot launch plans at RMG and scantlings from W.E. Mays' book so maybe can help you. I am not sure of the resolution you will get here, but if you would like a high res version in whatever scale you want, feel free to PM me. A side note: the davit and davit side supports in the stern were most likely removed for Bligh's voyage. As to color, maybe some of the models at RMG will give you some ideas. One of many examples can be seen at https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66539 Allan
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A warm welcome to the fray BZ. Your choice for the Shipwright series is very wise. You will learn good techniques that will carry on as you get into more detailed projects. A magnifying visor is great advice. The downside is you will see things that you thought were perfect may not be.😀 Allan
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Sorry if I missed this in an earlier post, but I could not find anything.. For the beakhead bulkhead frieze work, did you do this as you did in earlier frieze work that you posted May 18, 2021, that is, did you paint directly on the bulkhead? Beautiful work!!!! Allan
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