allanyed

I have always been about wooden ships but I am excited to see more about this kit so will be checking in on your build log. Good luck!! Allan

Your comment got me curious so did a little digging. Sounds like you found the information in Lavery's Arming and Fitting book where he writes ......Large ships, of the Third Rate and above, usually carried three lanterns. In 1722 it was ordered that Fourth Rates should also have three lanterns, but in 1804 it was decided that ships below the First Rate needed only two, except when they were fitted as flagships. It is clear from this order that a private ship lit only the two outer lanterns, even before the middle one was abolished. There is a little side note on page 300 that some may find interesting as there are four lanterns mentioned. It is a letter currently in the Public Records Office from Officers of Woolwich dockyard to the Navy Board 25th June 1701 regarding the lanterns of the Royal Sovereign. Rt. Hons, As directed by your honour's orders of the 31st May last, we put a valuation (to the best of our judgements) on the Royal Sovereigns lanterns, the lights being of stone ground glass, for which a blank bill was made out to Mr. Nicholas Pickering, the 27th March 1701 as follows. viz- Lanterns of 9ft 6in high and 4ft 4in diameter, one - £37 Lanterns of 8ft 2in high and 3ft 9in diameter, two - £29 each Upright top lantern of 6ft 6in high and 2ft 10in diameter, one - £15' I am not sure what the last lantern is. Might it be a lantern in the main mast top? Regardless, RS carried some mighty large lanterns! Allan

Flyer, I agree that the Renaissance period was full of artistry in many ways, not just the works of Michelangelo and Da Vinci. It seemed to have carried over to vessels of most, if not all, seafaring nations including the two you mention. Whatever the reason, it is a wonder to see. Even the carvings on the contemporary models continue to amaze us. Allan

David, The deck planking looks great and at 1:72 it is sooo nice to NOT see oversized and obtrusive treenails. Very nice work! Probably the camera angle in the pic, but is there something amiss with the alignment of the openings in the deck? Allan

Great points across the board Roger. The only one that MAY be a problem is not taking the removable thwarts as then rowing at those stations would be problematic. I suppose the odd cask or other jury rig could be made, but an interesting point either way. Allan

I thought that might be the case. Nothing wrong with taking things into your own hands, so to speak. Your build log continues to be a joy to follow. Allan

No problem Glenn Probably easier just to go to https://seawatchbooks.com/products/hms-euryalus-36-1803-a-plank-on-frame-model-volume-i-by-allan-yedlinsky-and-wayne-kempson and https://seawatchbooks.com/products/hms-euryalus-36-1803-a-plank-on-frame-model-volume-ii-by-allan-yedlinsky-and-wayne-kempson Just submitted an initial draft on another project with SeaWatch so more is hopefully forthcoming. Cheers Allan

Hi Yves The drawing from AOTS that you posted shows the rudder taper which was pretty normal. Does the kit and/or the book show the taper of the knee of the head from the stem moving forward which reduced by about half? Thanks Allan

Hi Glenn, Thank you kindly for sharing your opinion, I for one really appreciate it! I often wonder how many members care about these kinds of details and how many don't care. Would make for an interesting poll. Cheers Allan

If you look at the shape of the garboard strake on a plank expansion plan it may help you to shape the strake. While it tapers along its length in some cases, the key is for the forward end not to go too far up the rabbet at the stem. One example is https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83495 The upper is the ceiling planking and the lower is the hull planking. Allan

Your following the tutorials for planking has resulted in one of the finest planking jobs in the kit build logs here at MSW. It can serve as a lesson to others that no one is relegated to using the erroneous methods shown by some kit makers where many the planks fail to end at the rabbet as they should. With this being your first build, the build log is even more impressive. Allan

Chimp, I agree that "artistic license" is a good term, albeit much too kind in some cases. Thanks for posting the drawing. Like you I would trust the research done by Marquardt in the AOTS book before the kit. Allan

Kev, Your questions are great and I am very curious to see the answers posted based on contemporary information. If you rig your launch model as a double lug sail boat like it is thought that Bligh rigged her, I don't think there is a bow sprit about which to worry which would not be the case if cutter rigged. I have been unable to find a contemporary drawing or model, so far, of a lug rig with a sprit. Perhaps if there are any detailed contemporary plans and/or models showing the rigging up close, that would help get an idea on how things were done. I for one am very interested to see if there are any rigging plans based on contemporary information. Aside,,,, a golf buddy who works for BMW just spent two days driving three of the hottest Beamers around the Indy short track, full road course, and main track. He said it is really pretty country where you are and of course the driving was absolutely thrilling. Allan

The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships book is fantastic and you are to be complimented for not using any information in the kit without verifying it first. But to know what applies and what does not would take hours of research to compare each item in a more complete book on rigging such as Lee's Masting and Rigging English Ships of War which covers a range of sizes and years. With the investment in money and time you have already made, Lees' book is a worthwhile incremental investment to consider for this project and future projects. Allan

Welcome to MSW. What name would you prefer to be called unless Weedboy 11 is what you want. I am sure there is an interesting story there. 😀 You might want to consider writing a post in the new member section and give a little background about yourself. Welcome again, and good luck on your build!! Allan

Mark, Good for you on the first builds! I would consider investing in a couple books as well as vetting which model to buy to be sure of the kit accuracy and some "how to" advice. A quick start is to look at the build logs and see what the various kits offer. Check little things such as if the kit offers cheap string instead of miniature rope, realistic looking blocks, realistically scaled belaying pins, accurate belaying points, etc. Once you have narrowed it down, post here and ask for opinions. For details on actual rigging, Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War is hard to beat. A lot of folks recommend Petersson's book Rigging Period Ship Models which unfortunately is limited in scope and gives no information on how to actually do anything. Then again, if you happen to be building a fifth rate vessel from about 1785, it will be very useful. For actual "how-to" practices, Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model series is helpful even though it is centered around Swan class vessels. Of course there are hundreds of pieces of great information here at MSW on how members do things that are extremely helpful for both what they have done that works and what they have done that does not work so well. Allan

Thanks Clementine. Are these supplied with the kit? If so, does the kit give these items a name? Hal, you bring up a good point on the number of hammocks as two hammocks were issued to the crew members starting in 1804. Consideration should also be taken regarding which watch system was used as the three watch became the fashion in the 19th century. If 1/3 of the crew was sleeping at a given time there would be about 100 hammocks not in use, but the model shows 200. If you compare contemporary drawings and paintings, including the one above and the one at https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-113120 at RMG, there is a vast difference with those from the kit. I go with the contemporary information based on the fact that the belaying pins in the kit are triple or quadruple the diameter they should be and the hammocks (if that is what they are supposed to be) much too small. Allan

Hi Clementine What are the white cylinders in the pic below? I thought maybe hammocks but there are about 100 of them on each side and the crew was only 65 plus they are about the same size of the belaying pins. There is something similar in the drawing from Darwin's Journal (1890 edition), but there are only about 25 on each side, so maybe hammocks in the drawing? Just curious to see what these represent. Thank you. Allan

The devil is in the details BE. I sometimes envy those that are not into the details as it alleviates a lot of frustration, but there is something positive to be said for the fun of the research into the little things. I just did a double check and you are right, I mistook a line that I thought was an additional spoke, my apologies. The sixth rate models that I found all have 8 or 10 spokes. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66436 is one example. Allan

The ratlines look great. It is great to see the detail of having them end at the second shroud from aft except where every sixth went to the swifter when there was an odd number or aftermost shroud when there was an even number. Kudos! Allan

David, Thank you for posting the silk information. Do they/you have these sizes in tan colors for running rigging as well? Tx!! Allan

Allen, I can think of no reason why it would be a bad idea to not use the same methodology. Allan

As Marshall was there, perhaps these ships were exceptions to the norm. Then again, drawing ZAZ3919 shows what looks like 10. No matter, it is not important to most observers and your model looks great. Allan

Your model looks terrific! Hope you don't mind one question, regarding the wheel. Looking at other Sphinx builds I am guessing the wheel is from the kit, but wonder why it has twelve spokes instead of the normal 10 spokes. I looked at a number of photos of contemporary models, including sixth rates and referenced Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War and I could not find a ship for which the wheel had twelve spokes. From Lavery, page 23, Most wheels had ten spokes, so they were fitted at an angle of 36 degrees to one another. A few smaller wheels had eight spokes. There is no mention of any wheel with twelve spokes, so I was wondering, is Lavery wrong? Thanks again for sharing your build. Allan

Hi Bob, Hard to tell from your photo but the one block looks to be backwards such that the line will not roll over the would be sheave. Allan