allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Bienvenu Monsieur Haricot. Kev gives great advice!! Too many newcomers start with overly complex or one of a plethora of poorly designed kits. If wooden ships are your choice, take a serious look at the Model Shipways' Shipwright Learning Series designed by David Antscherl then you will have few, if any, problems if you follow up with a more complex project from Syren or Vanguard. Allan
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Just tuning in. A few things that jumped out at me and made me smile. The blocks are really fine! Are these from the kit or after market or did you make them? I see sheaves so am guessing you made at least some of these yourself. Your upper deck cannon are rigged with two single blocks according to and as described by Caruana in The History of English Sea Ordnance, volume II. It seems many Victory models erroneously show two double blocks for all sizes of cannon for this era. I agree with you that the cloth and sewing of sails in most kits are awful so kudos to you for going your own way and improving in this. Allan -
For information on this one hour lecture, -----> https://www.thewellingtontrust.org/events/shipwrecks-in-the-thames/?mc_cid=ce56ddafb7&mc_eid=fc416e3d21 Allan
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Hello from Canada’s west coast
allanyed replied to Twokidsnosleep's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW Twokidsnosleep. Love the screen name and it will apply double when they are teenagers and out for the evening and late getting home. -
FWIW, The models of America at the NYYC has her with a copper bottom as does the model at the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park. Allan
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The real thing varied. The 18th century British Navy materials were largely oak, elm, and Deal based on numerous contracts that call out specific species to be used. These are not really preferred by most model builders as the grain shows so is way out of scale. Walnut-like wood that we see used by some, not all, kit makers is, I believe, to save money as realistic appearance does not seem to be a consideration in those cases. Many folks, me included, think the color is nice, but it is porous and these tiny holes can be seen and looks awful if scale is important. Contemporary models used a variety, principally boxwood as well as other species. Castello and Alaskan cedar are current favorites when considering tight grain and hardness. Fruit woods such as pear were often used and are still a good choice today. Basswood looks very good but is quite soft compared to the others. Still, it looks far better than the walnut mentioned above. The key is little to no grain and sufficient hardness to hold an edge for shaping, carving, &c. Some pics of various tight grained species and the open grained stuff found in many kits follows. Alaskan Cedar Castello European box Holly Swiss pear "Walnut" from a kit
pear.jpg.209e5ad1b6be562f95418ca30f8fc6c3.jpg)
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You really should move this thread to a build log. This is not the best place to be posting your build. Just a suggestion. Allan
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Taylor, Welcome to MSW 😁 Never, and I mean NEVER, post your email address. I am sure a moderator will remove it for you, but if you see this soon, go to edit and remove it to avoid unwanted spam. If you research some contemporary contracts you will likely get the spelling for that era. One example from a contract from an earlier time, October 14, 1808 for the HMS Astrea. Spelling and grammar are as found in the contract. To fix Bumpkins for the Fore Tack, cut Holes for the Gammoning, and to finish the Head with Timbers, Gratings, Seats and Fenders, all compleat, in the handsomest Manner, and equal to Ships of her Class built in His Majesty’s Yards. Allan
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Dave, You are very wise to be researching each thing before moving forward. Were the four methods on the hawser tie off based on contemporary information, or other kits. If contemporary, it would really be interesting to see how this varied. Regarding coils, I posted this video in the past, but if you did not see it, it might be helpful. Allan
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Well done Dave! One small comment, I really hope you don't mind. The hawser was secured to the ring with an inside clinch or similar knot, not seized so it was easy to remove. The sketch below is from page 129 of Lees' Masting and Rigging. This may be what you have, but it looks like it is seized in the photo. Allan
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Painting the hull
allanyed replied to Steve47's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Steve, She looks really good!! Would love to see more photos of the details. Allan -
Gsx The rigging method of the lanyard on the deadeyes is a new twist, for me at least. How do you tie off the lanyard to the shroud? Are all of the lanyards left loose on one end so you have some rope to work with to get up to and seized to the shroud? Hard to tell from the photos if there is a running end available to tie off properly. As the distance between every pair of deadeyes is different as the angle of the shrouds change, is pre-rigging to the proper spread between deadeyes looks difficult? The drawing below is from David Lees' Masting and Rigging, page 42. Thanks for sharing your build! Allan
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Ran out of appropriate adjectives a couple years ago to describe your work. BIG thanks for continuing to share your project with us. Allan
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Poly rope - Which adhesive product?
allanyed replied to LyleK1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Your research/testing is impressive to say the least. A great lesson for everyone so as to allow each to decide what they like best. Great post Dave, thanks Allan -
Dave and David Be sure to peruse the list of tutorials in the Articles data base here at MSW. There is a wealth of information, including how to taper and spile or wet bend the planking at the bow to avoid the make-believe style of planking shown in many kits. Allan
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On the use of steel parts in modelmaking
allanyed replied to starlight's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
FWIW, many of us have gone to copper wherever possible. It can be cleaned then inserted, shaped, installed, and so forth, then blackened in situ with diluted liver of sulfur. The LOS will not stain the wood and works instantly. As with blackening brass or steel, a clean surface is best. Allan -
Very nice blocks and deadeyes! Are these from the kit or did you upgrade with a third party supplier and/or make your own. Allan
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Welcome aboard David!! Glad to see you giving ship modeling a go. Yours is not alone, but as stated above there are many here that can help you get through it. Keep in mind there are a couple alternatives that would be much better choices to start to hone your skills. Allan
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Ships Pumps
allanyed replied to bdgiantman2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Brian It might be that thin air in the mile high city as much as the hour of the day. 😁 Allan -
Siggi, What material did you use for the templates, wood, card, or ???? Thanks!! Allan
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Me&Suzy Just open a build log and move the photos and text. I am sure more folks will see your work and help you as you wish. Are the gratings supplied with the kit? The reason I ask is that they do not look like a real grating nor do the head ledges and coamings around the gratings. Most kit makers do not seem to understand how gratings and the coamings and ledges were made thus supply their own make-believe design. Allan
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You are right Biker Mart, there are a lot of folks like you that don't care if their model is accurate or not and are very happy with some kit manufacturers' make-believe designs which is absolutely fine. There is nothing wrong or right about anyone's choice, this is a hobby for most, not a vocation, so no matter the choice, it is right to that builder if they are happy. On the other hand there are many model builders that do care about the details. To answer your question about who cares, it would be interesting to have a poll to know what percentage of modelers cares about accuracy and what percentage don't care. You may very well be in the majority.😁 Regarding the copper plates fasteners you mention as slightly out of scale, they are closer to 400% out of scale and reversed showing rivet heads which were never used rather than what shuld appear as tiny dents from nails being driven home. It would be like using an 8mm block where a 2mm block should be used, not exactly "slight" To each his own and to whatever makes the builder happy. Allan
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On the use of steel parts in modelmaking
allanyed replied to starlight's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Of which nationality and era are you concerned? what parts are you looking to make from steel? Stainless steel was not invented until 1913. Allan -
Ships Pumps
allanyed replied to bdgiantman2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I doubt a Google search will be of much, if any, help, plus will take a lot more time. Go to the Royal Museum Greenwich Collections website as mentioned above and type in what ever you are looking for in the search box. In this case just go to https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/search/pumps deck washing. It will take about 5 seconds to get to the page with the contemporary drawings that are currently available, then you can open them and save them in your files and/or scale and print them as you wish. Allan
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