allanyed
-
Posts
8,066 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by allanyed
-
Fantastic build, beautifully done photos Yves Allan -
Welcome Rob I very much enjoyed reading your introduction. Yes you will have plenty of teachers but it sounds like you will be one of them as well. Happy to see you here. Allan
-
Ships Pumps
allanyed replied to bdgiantman2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Brian, A quick search turned up several contemporary drawings on the RMG Collections site of deck washing pumps in cross section views from 1807 and 1825 that should lend some help to you. Allan -
Hi Jim I totally agree with you that the model builder should do as pleases him/her but that does not necessarily mean every configuration is correct. I was thinking more of those that are looking for as much historical accuracy as possible, rather than what most kit makers offer out of the box. I would guess that contemporary models, contracts, and plans are more accurate than as designed by the model manufacturer, as modeled by the model builder based on those that I have researched. I have seen stops on the frames and bottom sill in the vast majority of cases, and in two cases, the top sill as well. I have yet to see, but would very much like to, information based on contemporary sources of as-designed, as-builts, re-fits, or re-builds showing stops only on the top and bottom sills as Boris described above. Allan
-
Your attention to detail even surpasses the books and is a joy to see. Can't wait to see it in person! Allan
-
Druxey, Chuck's ecivres (and yes it took me more than a few sdnoces to figure out the word) is fantastic but I think Greg has a Wabac machine!!! I want to take a ride to about 1720 and visit a few shipyards if it is for rent.
-
Thanks Boris. This is really interesting, especially stops on the top sill and bottom sill but not on the frames on the sides. Could you please post the contemporary "original" plans that show these top and bottom only? I have seen contemporary models that have stops, but I have never seen contemporary plans that show them on the drawings. A framing disposition and profile section of Ardent (64) 1781 is below. I have never seen an original drawing showing stops so this is very interesting. Regarding photos on the internet that you mention, are these modern models from kits or contemporary models? With one exception I would not trust parts or instructions from a kit maker without first researching contemporary information to see if it is correct before installing it. Thanks again Allan
_FRAMINGDISPOSITIONRMG_J3027cropped.thumb.png.8297514ad7022ec542fa4f627544df8f.png)
_PROFILEANDBODYPLANRMG_J3028cropped.thumb.png.691436a9584201077ba9813d8ecc7762.png)
-
Further to Dziadeczek's post I found the following information which is good for us. Mercerized cotton is a special kind of cotton yarn that is more lustrous than conventional cotton. It is also stronger, takes dye a little more readily, produces less lint, and is more resistant to mildew. It also may not shrink or lose its shape as much as "regular" cotton. It has also been described as shiny. I am not sure I like to idea of more lustrous, but the other attributes are helpful for modeling purposes. Allan
-
David, The following from Steel may help, although it is some years after Endeavour. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/mastplate5.htm Yard arm is not a term he used, but the details of construction may be useful. Page 40 of this treatise gives proportional dimensions of all yards as well, although Lees gives the same information for a lot of different time periods. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/ Allan
-
The red linings inside the gun ports. Most of the time, and as I mentioned I have seen an exception. The sketch may be more clear, sorry for any confusion. Allan
-
Hi Boris Just curious, but do the instructions call for port stops on the top sill as well as the bottom sill and the frames (sides). I have not seen stops on the the upper sills on contemporary models or books based on contemporary sources for the time of Agamemnon. As with many things in our hobby, maybe Agamemnon was an exception to the norm for her time period. From fifty years earlier I have seen pics of a sectional model of a Centurion 1732( 60) at RMG that does show stops on the upper sill. Thanks Allan
-
I think one problem is that there are dozens of sizes of blocks and rope on any given ship. For our models, 5 or 6 sizes would probably be satisfactory for most folks, but using only 2 or 3 might be an issue for some. If you go to the Danny Vadas spread sheet in the articles base here at MSW you will get all the rope sizes based on the formulas he took from Lees Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War although he used the wrong formula for the years 1670-1710 so every mast, spar and rope is the wrong size for that particular era. Before 1670 and from 1711 to 1860 the spread sheet seems to be accurate. The rope you show indeed looks like rope but is very fuzzy and from the photo appears to be very shiny as well. But, if you are happy with it, that is the crux of it. Allan
-
Gregory Is the knee of the head solid wood or plywood? The reason I ask is that when you taper it from the stem to the forward edge, if it is plywood, the laminations will show big time. I'm not sure the amount of taper, but for Rattlesnake, am I correct that it will taper from about 7.5 inches at the stem to about 4 inches at the forward edge of the bobstay? The following is based on the RMG plan view drawing from the Wiki site. The knee of the head is added to the RMG plan view drawing. Allan
-
The MK blocks look to be very nice in appearance. I looked on-line but they only appear to go to 5mm which is the equivalent of 9.45" at 1:48, where as there are blocks up to about 16" needed. Do you know if they make them in larger sizes as well? Also, the blocks you show for Syren look nothing like what is on their website for the new CNC made blocks which go up 6.35mm. Photo below of the Syren blocks. Allan
-
Seizings - what am I doing wrong?
allanyed replied to David Lester's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks Greg, I am anxious to see the pics!! Allan -
Seizings - what am I doing wrong?
allanyed replied to David Lester's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
David, What material is the rope and the seizing material made of? How are you wrapping the seizing line to begin with? This video should be useful in actually making your seizing, just using a needle and your seizing cord in place of the full size rope in the vid. At our scales it is not so easy, but can be done without any glue, although I would use a dab of the applicable glue anyway. I hope some other members will post some show and tell methods that they use with success that do not include CA. Allan -
SUbaron Note that tea has a pH of about 5 thus on the acid side of neutral and the sails will degrade more quickly compared to sails not stained with tea. For the future, consider that cloth sails cannot be made to scale nor can the sewing of the seams of the panels and edges be to scale for the more common scales of 1:48 and smaller. If you wish, you can research a lot of information on alternative non-woven materials such as silkspan and associated acrylic coatings in many discussions here at MSW. There is an $8 booklet on making sails by David Antscherl available at Seawatch books that shows how to make excellent looking sails that are not out of scale and any color you want without worry of using an acidic stain like tea or coffee. Allan
- 110 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Swift
- Artesania Latina
- (and 3 more)
-
Lurked for a few weeks. Here's my intro
allanyed replied to Mark m's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard, hope you enjoy the voyage. You decision to start with the three kit series is extremely wise! You will learn excellent techniques and it will provide a basis from which you can move on to a larger project down the road. Depending on your tastes and desires for future projects it will also help you to study which of the few more complex kits are worth an investment in time and money and the others which are a not. Being confined, if you will, there is always room for a small library which will help you as you move along. And, of course, researching MSW subjects here will help you avoid many pitfalls and provide you with over 40,000 advisors. Allan -
Go with the above recommendations if possible. I would rather melt a horse hoof on the kitchen stove (while the admiral is away) and use that rather than use CA on any rigging. Learned the hard way about using CA a long time ago. Allan
-
Or, some builders may want to consider using each casting as a maquette then making these out of wood like the real thing. Allan
-
Old Salt, Great idea. If the builder wants to end up with an Admiralty style model without rigging it will save some money in not paying for materials that will not be used. By the same token they can order the rigging set later or get/make their own blocks, rope, &c. as some bulders like to do. Nothing wrong with having choices and it seems to work for Syren. Allan
-
Dave, I am with the replace everything you can if it is not right crowd. Be picky though, some things may be fixable or good as they are. I assume you are referring to Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company. Regarding rope, as you are no doubt aware, for standing rigging 18th century ships were most often coated with Stockholm or similar pine tar thus dark brown, not "road" tar black like seen in some kits. Chuck provides it in this color as well as typical tans for running rigging. There is a long thread here at MSW from 2017 on the subject of standing rigging color and coatings. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15655-stockholm-tar/ As to blocks, many members replace kit blocks with more realistic looking ones for obvious reasons, but as normal it is your choice. As explained above cost is always a concern for the kit maker as well as the end customer, as it should be, so the decision to spend extra money comes down to the individual's desires and budget. Below is the color of Syren's great looking rope.
-
Welcome from another Florida member!! Allan
-
Totally understood. There are great videos out there and lots of discussion here at MSW by those that have tried and succeeded so you are in good hands when you decide to give it a try. Allan
- 476 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- sphinx
- vanguard models
- (and 1 more)
-
Glenn, serving the shrouds at the bight or for the entire length of the foremost shroud is very easy. A simple serving machine helps but it is not so difficult to do by hand. Syren makes a nice unit and alternatively it is not so difficult to make one with a few simple gears and scrap wood. I would think that if no kit maker currently explains or shows these servings, one of them will see it as an opportunity to improve the product and beat the competition. Allan
_FRAMINGDISPOSITIONRMG_J3027cropped.png.88d47443998123b955c14392abc6621b.png)
_PROFILEANDBODYPLANRMG_J3028cropped.png.f31edbca8ab614fd737e807817468c7d.png)
Our Emblem ®
