allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Hammer Look at some contemporary models and paintings of ships in drydock for repairs. They have no sails, often the upper masts are not in place, and sometimes the lower masts are unstepped depending on the amount and type of repairs. You could also build the hull on the building slip. There are many examples, both contemporary and modern, that you can see with a few minutes search. Don't go by the well known Underhill model from 1950 that has the ship on the building ways and fully rigged. Per RMG, that model was more of a lesson on building a model than accuracy of the the scene itself. Then again, this may be what you would like. 😀https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68469 Other ideas Ship under repair drawing: Example of a contemporary model on the ways, from Preble Hall at the academy. Old Buckler's Hard diorama located at Buckler's Hard museum
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As mentioned above, if you decide to go with sails, silk span or similar non-woven material is a great choice as cloth is totally unrealistic if you are interested in scale accuracy. If scale is not a concern for you and you want to use cloth, try to use super high thread count (TC) cloth material. Consider investing $7 and buying the sail making booklet by David Antscherl offered by SeaWatch Books. I understand it is currently sold out but the owner Michael may be able to give you info on when a reprint will be available. There are You Tube tutorials that give similar methods using SS. Allan
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Schooner Your methodology is spot on. Totally agree with your choice of glue as well. Marking out where to bevel the bulkheads is a great idea. Holly is a great wood for decks. It has the color of a holystoned deck and is readily available from the normal wood suppliers mentioned here at MSW. As you are starting to plank the hull, do you plan to plank as the kit instructs or have you considered realistic looking planking instead? If case you are not aware, there is a great Antscherl tutorial here at MSW and there is a four part Passaro video series on-line on proper planking. Thanks for sharing your build with us. Allan- 36 replies
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Shipwreck The Gloucester hailed most important since Mary Rose
allanyed replied to Kevin's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thank you very much for posting the link Kevin, it is a very interesting read. Allan -
I tend to agree with these points for the most part - There is no cloth in existence that is to scale nor any sewing method for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and even 1:24 is a stretch. Non-woven materials can be used and look far better than cloth but they still block the view of much of the rigging. Like Steven mentions in his post, I have also done both, but I am of the school that in most cases sails ruin the look otherwise beautiful models. With the exception of when a client requires and pays for sails I never consider adding them. Just one opinion. Allan
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Jobble, There very well may have been stern lights (windows) but probably not. Look at models of other brig rigged sloops on the Royal Museums Greenwich Collections website as one source of contemporary information. The points about the cannon rigging and stern lettering have been discussed a number of times here at MSW based on contemporary information and research by folks such as Adrian Caruana and others. The MSW search function is a godsend. Allan
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Jobbie, Glad to see back, very nice work! Just as an FYI for the future, during the ten years RN ships had their names on the stern, 1780-1790, they were painted on, they never had carved letters. No names in any form were allowed before 1780 or after 1790. Also, guns smaller than 32 pounders used 2 single blocks for the running out tackle, not a single and double. Not a huge issue for the casual observer, but some builders find these kinds of details interesting. Allan
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Nails are not needed if the planks are properly pre-shaped. Consider studying the planking tutorial by David Antscherl in the Articles data base here at MSW and watch the four videos that Chuck Passaro made on proper planking techniques. Allan
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From Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, page 44, "Ratlines were spaced 13 to 15 inches apart...'' (32.5cm-37.5cm) Allan
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No surprise there. After studying the tutorials you will see that this is totally unnecessary. Sanding and otherwise fairing the hull is difficult at best with hundreds of nails with which you have to contend. Allan
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Glad to hear MS provides pins that are closer to scale. If the pins are brass, light brown paint could do the trick. At this small scale, brass pins really are better than wood as they are strong enough to which a line can be belayed tightly. Beats using bowling pins😀 Nice ship's boats! Allan
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Please do take Steven's advice above and thoroughly study the planking tutorial by David Antscherl (https://thenrg.org/resource/articles) in the Article data base and Chuck Passaro's 4 part videos on proper planking techniques so at least the second layer looks good. There is no need to use metal pins, especially on the second layer. Is there a reason you used pins? Good luck! Allan
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Brush hair treenails, interesting idea! Just don't use HER brush as she might notice thousands of missing bristles. Two diameters will usually suffice for most builders, the 3/4" or so for the deck and the 1 1/2" to 2" for the ceiling and outer hull planking, depending on the ship, era, etc. Allan
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Your build has been fun to follow and I really like the idea of using the laser for aligning the masts! This has nothing to do with your work, but rather a habitual problem with most kit designers, i.e. the belaying pins. Your figure in the below photo looks to be right at scale. How on earth does the kit designer expect a seaman to get his hand around these gigantic pins? Again, I realize you did not make the pins, it is just frustrating to see this problem so often with most, not all, kits. A little home work on the kit maker's part would go a long way, or at least let the builder know they have an option to make or buy their own that are to scale. Allan
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Whitebeard, did you research the Miss Sherri (aka Jenny of Forrest Gump fame)? I believe it was built by Desco Marine in St. Augustine. Not sure if they are still in business but they were a few years ago. I found an old address for them but no phone number or website so they may be defunct. They may have the plans or similar ones as they built about 800 trawlers, and Miss Sherri may be one of them. The Islander Yacht and old Californian Yacht boat yards gave me sets scaled prints back in the day once I explained it was for a model and not for reproduction of a real boat, &c. &c. This could be a good route to take for your Jenny, even if it is from some other trawler shipyard if Desco is closed. The Maritime Reporter and Engineering News may be able to steer you as well. I list of the boats built by Desco, last updated February 2021, is at http://shipbuildinghistory.com/shipyards/small/desco1.htm Allan
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Love your castings, well done and very neat work overall! The barrels look super, but I am not sure about the long gun rigging, is this something the kit shows? Just as an FYI for the future, deck treenails were typically 0.75" diameter, maybe as much as an inch. At 1:60 they would be about 0.013 which are barely visible and difficult to make, even with bamboo and a high quality draw plate like from Jim Byrnes ($25). If you look at photos of contemporary models, most do not show the trennals on the deck at this scale or even larger scales. When in doubt, leave them out 😀to avoid that measles look. Allan
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For beginners, the three boat series by Antscherl cannot be beat, it teaches a LOT. For your next projects, offerings from Syren and Vanguard seem to be the best way to go based on reviews and build logs here at MSW. There are surely others that are OK. Study up on all the comments you can find at MSW and look at the build logs to see which brands are high quality and which are not. There is always going over to the dark side and scratch building😀 Allan
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Hi Clementine I am guessing it is a kit instruction but never the less, why would there be two bolts for each of the small hinge plates for the gun port lids, but only one on each of the pintles on the rudder? I would think there would be a minimum of three on each of the pintles but could very well be wrong. Allan
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Gregg, I am glad to be of at least a little help. I am happy to receive information/help/constructive criticism but not everyone is, thus my hesitancy. Allan
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Ahhhh, teak decks. The old adage, would you rather spend your time on the boat working on the teak decks or would you rather be sailing? Not enough time for both. Do boat yards use teak anymore? Teak and mahogany are endangered wood species so with most of the remaining trees in Myanmar and their problems, is it even possible to get teak in any quantity? We have a carved 7 piece teak salad bowl set from 1969 (wedding gift). The boss keeps a close eye on it in case I get any crazy ideas about using the wood for other than salads. Allan
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I really hope you don't mind but I disagree with Bob. I realize the average viewer would not notice or care. and some may call this nitpicking so please take it for what it's worth. I realize it is too late for this project, but something that you may find to be of interest for future builds. The gratings never have open sides, and the battens run fore and aft, not athwartships. Also, the head ledges rest on the coamings not the other way around. Picture and 1000 words etc. below.
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I may just be lucky but rarely have had this problem. Once the shroud is secured to the upper deadeye I hold the shroud between my thumb and forefinger at the top then run them down the shroud to get any twist out of it before running the lanyard through the deadeyes. Sometimes it takes a couple tries but it works. Allan
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Interesting techniques. Thanks for sharing your video. Allan
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Hi Ed, I love the schooners and your hull, fittings and furniture look great! Something you may want to consider for future builds for realistic looking sails is to use a non-woven material like silk span and also forget sewing. There is no woven cloth in existence or a sewing method that will be to scale at 1:64, or even 1:48. There is a lot of information on this here at MSW and there is an excellent booklet by master builder David Antscherl on making proper sails that you can get from SeaWatch books for about $8. Allan
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Soleil Royal 1/72 - Artesania Latina Ref.22904
allanyed replied to modeller_masa's topic in Wood ship model kits
Agreed. Katsumoto has a great point. If you look at the build logs there is an inordinately high percentage of one or two brands that do exactly as Katsumoto suggests in addition to them doing a lot of research before marketing a kit. Allan
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