Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

allanyed

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,065

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    In browsing through a few drawings this morning on the RMG site, I found the below as-built drawing of Gibraltar 1754 (20) It is low resolution so hard to see when blown up, but the rudder and steering configuration looks rather odd to me. It extends into the lower counter as usual, then the lines are drawn in red from this point and extend up through the quarter deck. My quandry is that the tiller, if it is indeed the tiller, has a crook rising up as if for the helmsman to hold. If that is the case, why have a steering wheel? I question if this is in fact part of a tiller rather than the cap rail as there is a section missing for about 2 feet starting 5 feet 4 inches aft of the lower crook. The deck plans show the wheel and where the rudder head looks to be coming up through the QD. If these are both tiller and wheel, I can see them rigged similarly to the larger ships pre-Pollard style but with the blocks and lines on the QD rather than at a lower deck level although this would be a huge inconvenience. I have looked through Lavery and Goodwin but neither show examples like this set up. If anyone has any more details or examples of this that they can share, that would be great. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Jaager, In all seriousness your sharing of your wealth of knowledge in many areas is greatly appreciated. On the lighter side,....... so if one has a bottle of Culinary Solvent or Everclear in the pantry, they are good to go for thinning shellac as well as having other more fun uses. Sounds good to me! Allan
  3. allanyed
    David, I have no idea if the number of pins is correct for Victory or not, but belaying lines is difficult under normal circumstances even with room to work. Would you consider getting rid of the cross pieces and pins and making your own and drilling holes for realistic sized pins. That way you will have the requisite number of pins, and room to work each line. As can be seen in many build logs, unfortunately there are a number of kit makers that do not appear to understand or care about scaled parts when it comes to things like the pins or rings. FYI, Model Shipways has several sizes brass belaying pins although it is not so difficult to make your own with a drill or drill press, and jewelers file. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Great photo Keith! The dixie cup head gear tells me probably US and post 1885 but I am curious to know which ship and year if you know. Thanks! Allan
  5. allanyed
    Thanks for sharing the photos, your workmanship is really very neat and clean. I realize it is not your doing, but the kit itself does seem to have some interesting substitutes for reality. Allan
  6. allanyed
    Rich Where are you located? Knowing might help members in pinpointing some help for you. McMaster Carr is one choice if you are in the USA. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Robert, I for one am very happy to see that you added the LEDs as it makes your already excellent model even better. Allan
  8. allanyed
    David, I continue to enjoy following your build! I do have a question regarding the bitts and pins, I really hope you don't mind. According to the scantlings in Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture 1805, the main bitts had bitts that were 14" square and cross pieces that were 10.5" broad by 9" deep. The Shipbuilder's Repository of 1788 has very similar scantlings. Yours look to be right on. But, the pins are nearly touching with not enough room for the lines to go. Do the plans and kit parts call for this many pins and/or so large? The diameter of the pin handles were about 2 or 2.5 inches (about 0.3" at your scale) so they could easily be gripped by hand yet strong enough to belay a line and hold it under tension. At 1:72 it may not be possible to make pins this small out of wood that will be strong enough. Brass is a strong alternative and can be painted to look like wood. Coiling lines around pins is hard enough, so the more room between them that you have the easier it is to work. Allan
  9. allanyed
    Hi Lyle, Have you tried matte finish clear nail lacquer? Allan
  10. allanyed
    Welcome to MSW Ed It would be a polite thing if you would post an introduction on the new member forum with a little about yourself. Using your name as your subject here gives no clue as to what you need so maybe consider renaming it to something like Xebec rigging problems. Have you done any research outside the kit on xebec rigging plans? There are a number of excellent books on rigging but I don't know if any relate to a French xebec. Frolich's book for one may be of help to you. There was a post on xebec rigging problems here at MSW in 2015 and other build logs on xebecs here that may help. Rigging without sails should make things much easier for you. Because there is no woven cloth in existence or sewing methods that are to scale for smaller than about 1:24, unless using non-woven materials and no sewing, it is best to leave them off anyway as they ruin otherwise fine models if being to scale is considered important. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Beautiful workmanship!! I never realized the joints of the keel on French and English ships were completely different with the French being horizontal and the English being vertical. I wonder why or if one was stronger than the other. Allan
  12. allanyed
    Looking forward to your next update Lyle. Have you posted anything about this problem in the General Ship Model Kit Discussions forum so others are made aware? Allan
  13. allanyed
    Hi Lyle, Thanks for continuing your log. Your last photo brings up something I have often wondered about. Were the seizing on the blocks normally tarred as you show or not? I always thought they were not, but cannot find any information one way or the other. If they were tarred, what was the point of doing so? Hope one of your followers has info based on a contemporary source. Allan
  14. allanyed
    What is the price? Thanks Allan
  15. allanyed
    Glenn, This model is coming along beautifully. Your photos show the higher quality of the Vanguard kit very clearly especially considering the materials, scaled parts, and general attention to detail in replicating the ship and paraphernalia it is representing. Allan
  16. allanyed
    Some folks use the first layer of planking as a learning cycle to properly plank the second layer rather than following the kit instructions. Did you by chance study the planking tutorials here at MSW? It would be a great help for you in the future, including the second layer of planking on this model. Allan
  17. allanyed
    First, welcome to MSW Steve!! It would be nice if you would post a little introduction about yourself and your modeling areas of interest on the new member forum. If you do a little research with the search function here at MSW you will find your question discussed in detail. The plusses and minuses of each method described are given including the use of cyanoacrylate, polyvinyl acetate, acetone based nail polish, and mechanical assists. One of several threads is modelshipworld.com/topic/20088-2mm-block-threading/#comment-612707 Allan
  18. allanyed
    Don't give up Dave. Regarding the belaying pins, would you consider removing the kit pin racks and make new ones with the proper size holes? Looking at the photos there appears to be enough room to work. For running rigging, it really should go on after the standing rigging. A couple tweezers to handle the running lines are a must, that way you can work from either side of the model. I use both straight and bent forms, spring type and locking type as needed. SHARP scissors or a cutter of some kind is a must as well. Blunt end suture scissors work well as it is less likely you will snag and cut an already rigged line when reaching in to snip off and Irish pendants. Some like nail clippers but they can be difficult to maneuver into the rigging at times. I prefer barber scissors as they are so sharp and hold an edge, my favorites being Joewell 4 inch and 5 inch from Tokosha Company. Again, don't give up!! Allan
  19. allanyed
    DD A warm welcome to MSW! Hope to see more photos of your models in the near future. Allan
  20. allanyed
    Thanks Starlight, very much appreciated. I have tried this in the past with minimal success. 1mm is huge unless working at 1:24 scale as the muntins at 1:64 and 1:48 are 0.4mm and 0.53mm respectively. I bought the cutting device Pat suggested in his first pic (thanks Pat!) and it works OK. Next up is trying the pre-thicknessed piece rubber cemented to a sacrificial piece as Druxey suggested as I have slitting blades for my small table saw. Thanks to everyone for their thoughtful suggestions, they are all truly appreciated. Allan
  21. allanyed
    Ulises Having the gunport stops (linings) set in before the second layer of planking looks like it assures the outboard edges are even and a great idea for double planked models. For the future, keep in mind there was no lining piece on the top of the port attached to the upper sill, only the side stops and the bottom one resting on the lower sill. I looked at a good number of photos of contemporary models and could not find any with stops on the upper sills. There is a very detailed explanation on these in volume II of David Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model. Allan
  22. allanyed
    Chisels are an interesting idea, but I wonder how they will be to hold and draw down a strip of wood accurately compared to a straight backed razor or piece of hacksaw blade which are easy grind to the shape needed and to hold steady when using them. Hope you post how this goes with the chisel idea. Allan
  23. allanyed
    Tom, You ask if the AL unit is useful for 1/4 scale, but there is no way of knowing without knowing what ship and seeing the contemporary plans of which ship you are building. I am with Mark on making your own with stiff back razors or pieces of a hacksaw blade. This way they will be the proper shape and size. An example from a contemporary drawing of Resolution (74)1758 is below with the dimensions of a couple mouldings in mm at 1:48 scale. There is a high resolution copy of the full drawing on the Wiki Commons web site. For this ship at 1:48, the cutters you have look to be close for one moulding but the wrong size and/or the wrong shapes for the others. The shapes in the drawing below are pretty common and there are more on page 57 of Goodwin's Construction and Fitting of English Man of War where he also gives a few dimensions for various rates of vessels. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Easy peasy as the saying goes. Thanks again Druxey
  25. allanyed
    Thanks Druxey! Simple yet effective! Are you using mineral spirits or alcohol to remove the strip from the backing piece? Allan

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...