allanyed

Great photo and thank you for your sentiment for the holidays.  A Merry Christmas to you and a great 2024.  
Allan

The deck of your model looks great! 
 
 I might be missing something here but why do you want to oil the deck?   Glue will not bond well to oiled wood and if you use another finish such as a varnish or other similar product the glue will bond to the finish and not penetrate the wood.  You can add your items first then apply a finish such as a varnish or poly (or oil) or other material that you want to use with a brush so you do not coat anything you do not want coated.   If it is an eye or horse or something like that it does not matter as you will be drilling through the finish and into the wood.
To which items are you referring that might be problematic?

Allan

If you are speaking about planking actually I find it much easier to bend, including edge bending, than boxwood, pear, and other harder species.   It is easier to work if pre-bent with heat.  If soaked for some hours and then bent and heated it is even easier.  Have you watched the four You Tube videos by Chuck Passaro on proper planking techniques? He shows how to taper the breadth of the planks at each bulkhead or frame and how to pre-bend them so there is little or no bending of the plank on the model itself.
Allan

Christian, are you referring to Vanguards of Empire or Great Ships of the Armada Era by Peter Kirsch.  I did wind up purchasing the latter and it is quite informative.
Allan

Also consider using the book for the detail work as well as the contemporary high res drawings available on Wiki Commons from RMG to compare with whatever kit you choose.   Plans J2027, 2028 and 2029 for starters.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:HMAV_Bounty_(1784)  Each is over 40MB, so very clear.
Allan

I totally understand your dilemma but the pic below is a copper plate from the Constitution with nail dents versus rivet bumps.   I think the reason Vanguard went with the laser cut circles is that they are much closer to scale (1/4" nail with half inch dents full size) and the larger number of them as on the actual ships.   Goodwin has drawings and dimensions of the plates and such in his Construction and Fitting book.  
Allan

 

Great! That frees you up to choose a kit based on kit quality and not on whether the rigging instructions are adequate or not

@allanyed I refer to Kirsch "Galleon - Great ships of the Armada Era". In German the title is "Die Galeonen"

If you are speaking about planking actually I find it much easier to bend, including edge bending, than boxwood, pear, and other harder species.   It is easier to work if pre-bent with heat.  If soaked for some hours and then bent and heated it is even easier.  Have you watched the four You Tube videos by Chuck Passaro on proper planking techniques? He shows how to taper the breadth of the planks at each bulkhead or frame and how to pre-bend them so there is little or no bending of the plank on the model itself.
Allan

Which is the product that you are naming "oil"?
For the deck furniture that is wood, PVA to bond.
For metal - two part epoxy.
For plastic - no idea.
PVA requires a porous or rough surface for its hyphae to get a grip. rough bare wood.
Epoxy will bond to which ever material it meets - except maybe plastics or if your "oil" is actual oil - like mineral oil or castor oil that stays liquid - no bond.
If it is a polymerizing oil  - Tung, Linseed, or various nut oils - the epoxy will bond to it and the strength of the oil bond to wood will be the strength of the fitting's bond.
 
Old style oil based vanish was often Linseed with a heavy metal catalyst to speed polymerization.
Polyurethane is straight up plastic.  If this is what you mean by varnish, I am with you in finding it unacceptable.
 
In any case, any fitting should bond to the bare wood.  Protect the footprint of the fitting with tape before you apply any clear finish.
You seem determined about the oil,  so suggesting half saturated shellac as a primer or solo and rhen full strength shellac if a clear layer is desired.
If you are serious about assuring that the fittings stay bonded, add a mechanical component.
This is tricky to do.  For metal or plastic,  a solid brass pin - fit into a hole in the middle of the fitting's footprint and into a hole in the deck. -epoxy both ends.
For a wood fixture - a bamboo "dowel" "trunnel" instead of brass.  PVA.  - This is really "old school".

Just a thought, you might try Amber Shellac. It seals the wood and (I think) gives it an oiled look. Small parts glue down well with CA Glue. I use it on parts designated to be Natural Oiled. 
 
Try it on some scrap wood before you put it on that beautiful deck. 
 
John
 
 

Thank you Allan. 
 
Got part of a winch that is 1.5mm thick. About 4 mm long. Have just do it carefully I guess?? Got at least two other parts like this. 
 
As for oil. I’ve always used oil for all my woodwork. (Not models as I’ve never made one before). Varnish is just horrible in my opinion so not sure about that. I guess I could try by thinning some out. 
 
I think perhaps like you said, stick everything down then maybe oil around it. Not ideal but probably best. Maybe oil the majority of the deck where it’s easily masked with the large deck pieces. 
 
I usually oil with a cloth. I went to this finish for all woodwork after years of trying and hating varnish. I just don’t like the look of it I guess. 
 
Thank you again Allan. 
 

 
 

The deck of your model looks great! 
 
 I might be missing something here but why do you want to oil the deck?   Glue will not bond well to oiled wood and if you use another finish such as a varnish or other similar product the glue will bond to the finish and not penetrate the wood.  You can add your items first then apply a finish such as a varnish or poly (or oil) or other material that you want to use with a brush so you do not coat anything you do not want coated.   If it is an eye or horse or something like that it does not matter as you will be drilling through the finish and into the wood.
To which items are you referring that might be problematic?

Allan

For Iberian vessels I suggest Vanguards of Empire.  This describes Spanish practices for designing the hull.

Great photo and thank you for your sentiment for the holidays.  A Merry Christmas to you and a great 2024.  
Allan

Great photo and thank you for your sentiment for the holidays.  A Merry Christmas to you and a great 2024.  
Allan

Great photo and thank you for your sentiment for the holidays.  A Merry Christmas to you and a great 2024.  
Allan

WELCOME TO MSW!!!
 
What size are the cases?  Sounds like a good quality regular saw from a hardware would suit, but how are you going to move it around when you change ships?  Maybe better off with a mini.  Byrnes is considered by all that have used one as being the best but I am not sure on delivery since Jim passed away a few weeks ago.  The business is still going, but you might want to give them a call to see what the status is on getting one if that turns out to be your choice.  Remember that the blades are small compared to a full size table saw so you are somewhat limited on the lumber size it can handle.
Allan

WELCOME TO MSW!!!
 
What size are the cases?  Sounds like a good quality regular saw from a hardware would suit, but how are you going to move it around when you change ships?  Maybe better off with a mini.  Byrnes is considered by all that have used one as being the best but I am not sure on delivery since Jim passed away a few weeks ago.  The business is still going, but you might want to give them a call to see what the status is on getting one if that turns out to be your choice.  Remember that the blades are small compared to a full size table saw so you are somewhat limited on the lumber size it can handle.
Allan

Lovely model Maciek!
I realize it is probably a kit mistake, not yours, but for the future, small cannon (below 32 pounders) used only single blocks, not doubles on both the running out tackle and train tackle.  This is a common error with several kit manufacturers so you are not alone.    
Nothing wrong with using glue on your sails, it actually might be a better way to go.  Sewing will never be to scale at our most common scales just as cloth is usually far out of scale.  Just as an FYI, many builders have switched silk span as it is much more realistic looking and no sewing is involved.   
 
Again, very nice work.

Allan

WELCOME TO MSW!!!
 
What size are the cases?  Sounds like a good quality regular saw from a hardware would suit, but how are you going to move it around when you change ships?  Maybe better off with a mini.  Byrnes is considered by all that have used one as being the best but I am not sure on delivery since Jim passed away a few weeks ago.  The business is still going, but you might want to give them a call to see what the status is on getting one if that turns out to be your choice.  Remember that the blades are small compared to a full size table saw so you are somewhat limited on the lumber size it can handle.
Allan

This is an excellent book.  It has been very useful to me.

Before spending even a little money, I am very interested in the accuracy of this book.   Does anyone one know what sources Mr. Kirsch used?  To what detail does he go and does it cover galleons from Spain, England or??????   
Many thanks in advance.
Allan

While rigging, you can fine-tune the rake (if any) and plumb of the masts.

At the risk of sounding hieratical I would suggest not gluing the mast to the step. If, for some reason the ship is ever rerigged or part of the mast breaks, being able to remove it makes this very easy. As an example look at Olha's conservation of the HMS Boreas (YouTube). Assuming the foot of the mast is fitted loosely into some sort of step the standing rigging will keep the masts perfectly positioned once the laniards are reeved and tensioned. An additional advantage is that some adjustments are still possible in the mast position if warpage occurs in the months it takes to complete the rigging process.