allanyed

I too like that idea as long as the waterline of the model is sitting perfectly horizontal.
Allan

Prior to the  17th century the largest boats were nearly always towed, at least on English boats, using two ropes, the boat rope and gust rope. This started to change during the 17th century for the English ships.  Smaller boats were carried on the ship midships.  Later, even larger boats could be carried on board.
 
Before davits were introduced about 1790 the boats were raised and lowered from the ship by tackle suspended from the main and fore yardarms.   They were stowed midships, on deck, or in larger ships on beams over the waist area.  Brian Lavery goes into some good detail on how this was done on page 233 of The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War.  The following is his description of hoisting boats.
 
Because the largest boats were stowed between the mainmast and foremast, in the longest open space on the ship, a complicated tackle was needed for hoisting them in and out.  Draughts of boats often show ringbolts fitted inside the hull, which were used to attach the ropes used in hoisting.  The first stage was to raise the boat from its position amidships.  Two pendants hung from the masts, one from under the the top of the mainmast, the other from under the top of foremast.  When in use these were joined together by another rope known as the triatic stay, which was the same length as the boat.  A tackle was hung from the lower end of the pendants, one to lift each end of the boats.  Once the boat had been lifted, it had to be swung outboard.  The mainyard and foreyard were angled inward towards one another, and a tackle was extended from each yardarm to one end of the boat.  If the boat was heavy, the yards had to be supported with extra ropes in addition to the normal lifts.
 
There is more, but this is the gist of it.
 
Pics below may help.
 
Allan

I too like that idea as long as the waterline of the model is sitting perfectly horizontal.
Allan

I too like that idea as long as the waterline of the model is sitting perfectly horizontal.
Allan

I too like that idea as long as the waterline of the model is sitting perfectly horizontal.
Allan

I am really curious to see what others think this work is valued at. 
 
I think 150-200 hours is a good guess.  As to what that costs, figure out your hourly rate at work and then you have the cost of labor.  If for example you are making $35 per hour the value is upwards of $7,000.  Add cost of materials ($100-$150?) she owes you $7,150.  Probably won't fly, but I'm not a lawyer.
Allan
 
 

Completed planking inside the deck and stated to tackle the bow.  In keeping with the color theme, both areas were planked using walnut strips.  The bow was quite fragile... and thus was reinforced underneath, above and on the sides.  Here's what it looks like so far.
 
Note: the bow side panels are not glued yet.  I still need to add the canon door first.
 

Final look with the side panels up and planked.  This is a moment I have been waiting to see for quite a while now.  Wood inlays were incorporated as I planked so they don't stand out too much.  Walnut strips from 1mm to 5mm complete the overall layout.  It adds a little dimension to the sides. Overall, I'm pleased with the result.  Ready to complete planking inside and tackle the bow and the stern.

Hi Brian,
 
Often had that worry myself, eyeballing it just isn’t good enough as I improve my  skills. I like the plumb bob idea 💡 sounds like it should work. I’m working my Bluenose Main Shrouds right now and I’ll give it a go. 
 
As for gluing in the masts, it was recommended to me (bluejacket instructions) to not glue in your masts and let the standing rigging do its job to hold everything in proper alignment. This way down the line when your historic model needs restoration the masts can be removed. That said the mast alignment is left up to your tensioning of the shrouds and standing rigging. This is where I think your plumb bob idea will come into play, you should be able to calculate the required rake as well. Just hang the plumb bob from the aft of the trestle tree and use your best geometry. Of course we will have to be sure the deck is leveled up. 
 
cheers 🍻 
John
 
 

Welcome back Kenny.  Your planking is spot on, kudos!!!   
 
The trouble with the frames is that, based on contemporary scantlings for a 30/32 foot long boat, they were moulded only about 2.5 inches at the head and sided about 2.75" (0.05" X 0.057") so difficult to work them to the proper size once the planking is done.  With the frames too thick the gunwale that sits on top of the frames will be too large.  It was likely about 3.5 broad by 3.75 deep so just covered the head of the frames and upper most strake of planking.
 
Allan

Hi Gregory, 
I am taking your comment in good spirit.😀   I merely passed on what I found in historian Adrian Caruana's book on English Sea Ordnance volume II, page 386.  His CV is most impressive and he was considered the leading authority in the world on English ordnance.  It might just be that some others did not do the research.  While Caruana states guns less than 32 pounders used pairs of single sheave blocks, I am sure there were exceptions for other large guns such as the 24's on any given ship.  In the end nothing is gospel in this hobby of ours but I would rely on the likes of Caruana before the majority of kit makers or others that perhaps have less expertise in this area. 
Allan

Lovely model Maciek!
I realize it is probably a kit mistake, not yours, but for the future, small cannon (below 32 pounders) used only single blocks, not doubles on both the running out tackle and train tackle.  This is a common error with several kit manufacturers so you are not alone.    
Nothing wrong with using glue on your sails, it actually might be a better way to go.  Sewing will never be to scale at our most common scales just as cloth is usually far out of scale.  Just as an FYI, many builders have switched silk span as it is much more realistic looking and no sewing is involved.   
 
Again, very nice work.

Allan

Love the sails Tom!!!  They look really good overall and far nicer than the out-of-scale sewn cloth sails we see too often.  
 
The use of the copper foil is also very nice, but I am curious as to why you chose to have what appears to be big bumps in the photos rather than the  indentations they would have had in real life from the small nails used to attach them to the hull.  
Allan

Real world - a finished kit model would probably sell for about what the original kit costs.  For this one that is ~$300.
If you are building this for income instead of pure enjoyment, you would make much more money per hour doing a job that requires wearing a paper hat.
 
For the model in question, you should either stub the masts and repair the deck/hull yourself or give it a Viking funeral.
If you were to consider repairing it yourself, your time would be better spent building a different ship.  You have checked Endeavour off your list.
 
If I were to place a bet on the situation, my money is on you having to write the whole thing off and concede the victory to your Ex.
The only one likely to profit from pursuing this is your lawyer.
 

This is a great habit!!   When you think you have things looking really good take some closeups and look again.   Invariably I wind up doing a bit more finishing or sometimes replacements which is for the better. 
 
For a first model and such a small scale your work is wonderful.
 
Allan

I Googled Wiki Commons Bounty and three plans popped up so can be saved in low, medium and high res.  Thanks for the lead Gregory!
 Allan

This is a great habit!!   When you think you have things looking really good take some closeups and look again.   Invariably I wind up doing a bit more finishing or sometimes replacements which is for the better. 
 
For a first model and such a small scale your work is wonderful.
 
Allan

Forestays all done.
 

Here is a link.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich&fileuntil=Bristol+(1775)+RMG+J3860.jpg#/media/File:Bounty_(ex-'Bethia')_RMG_D3970_2.jpg
 
You can click through three more drawings.

I Googled Wiki Commons Bounty and three plans popped up so can be saved in low, medium and high res.  Thanks for the lead Gregory!
 Allan

Hi, and thanks to all
 
 

The problem is that the rig of a New Testament era Alexandrian grain ship was very different from an 18th century man of war! A semi-swamped boat, even a small one, would have considerable weight. How this was wrestled aboard (in a storm, yet!) would be hard to imagine. An attempt lower it, once bailed, can be imagined with a pair of lines, presumably with some kind of block and tackle that were then cut away. 

Hi Allan, I did watch that, but I messed up nevertheless by trying to find some kind of midway house between the Artesania Latina instructions and Chuck’s method. But I have also received the NRG half hull planking kit now, which I will do after this kit, and which will hopefully much improve the planking on my next build.

If you have not already done so, you might benefit from watching the You Tube video (4 part series) on proper planking techniques by Chuck Passaro.  It will help you immensely.
Part 1 --- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM 
 
Allan
 

Thanks for the compliments! And everyone else for the likes! I really appreciate it