Doreltomin

So here it is with the whole length toothpicks.
 

And trimmed, with the railing just started.
 


 
My lovely wife has solved at least one problem on this build for me - I'd wondered how to get the wavy border on the awning. Turns out she has a pair of scissors (think: a variation on pinking shears) that cuts paper and cloth with just the right wavy edge. Amazing!
 
Steven

Seats added. Ready to add the awning and railings.
 



I've learnt from doing this one that for the "good" version I need to make some sort of jig to ensure all the seats are identical. I was a little too casual about making these ones.
 
Steven
 

Oh, yes . . .

The clue is in the caption - a "naval odometer" according to Vitruvius (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitruvius )
 
Steven

I wasn't aware that there were paddle wheelers in the middle ages.  😁

Wire will make the strongest, especially if you use steel wire.  I’m not sure of the diameter of the stanchions and rails but at the scale I would guess they would be in the 1 to 1,5 mm region,
You could consider different materials like plastruct extruded sections ( ABS material ) which can be joined by solvent welding, but they might not be strong enough take even light handling.
Brass is easy to cut, solder and finish.
If you use steel wire - do not use the wire available in model shops, as this is Piano wire ( music wire to our US cousins) which is high-carbon, very hard and stiff and therefore quite difficult to cut to identical lengths, bend to repeatable curvatures, etc.  Engineers would say it is almost glass-hard.
Soft iron wire is probably too soft, but is easy to work, bend and solder*.  Samples are florists wire and some fence wire.  Bunnings do big hanks of garden wire - might be worth a look.
 
Piano wire can easily be tempered back to a useful hardness - same as your Uhfbert sword, but much faster ‘cos of its thinness.  Heat to dull red and allow to cool in air will produce very soft temper
 
*With the correct flux!
 
Sorry, I have rabbitted on too much.  
soldering easily learned - especially when shown the method.
Probably Pat’s resistance soldering setup is readily controllable and he might share his wisdom about it

4 secrets** of good soldering:
Cleanliness
Cleanliness
Right Flux
Cleanliness 
Enough Heat!
 
**. Like the Garden of Five Surprises

And... the magic begins to show! Lovely work, as ever, Gary.
 
Off topic, the eclipse: If one believes that it is all a coincidence in size and distance.... BTW, in Niagara we were almost totally cloud covered that day. Sigh.

My kit version is for the 1970 edition McLaren. However, the kit contains parts to backdate this version to the 1969 version which had a high wing rather than the shorter wing struts seen in the previous photos on my last post.
With Imagna's help, I learned my kit instructions showed the installation of parts that interfered with the optional installation of the high wing struts found in the 1969 team McLaren version which I want to model. 
Pictured are my kit instructions and then the photos of my kit with the correct long struts installed for the high wing. Note that I needed to make my own bracing rods that run from the roll bar to the long wing struts. My kit did not include bracing rods long enough for the high wing struts, but it's no big deal to make a longer pair of rods from styrene rod stock in the correct diameter.
 

 
If you decide to build the high wing 1969 version like I did, leave out part numbers C53, C56, and C57, and attach the longer set of struts directly on top of the rear axle hubs.

Need to add the decals, windscreen, and a few small parts then this one is done.
 

Steven, nice add with those crewmen tightening the shroud... but allow me to disagree there! I remember having seen a photo from the early fifties of the last century with two people doing this job on a small English schooner, much smaller than this one, and they used a small lever to tighten the shrouds. If you have the book "Schooners" by David R MacGregor just look on page 93, down right.
 
I mean, the tension on the shrouds is such that you can't properly do it by hand, and surely not by merely pulling it down with his hands as your guy is doing it!
 
More likely they had the upper pulley attached to a lanyard and used his weight on a strong lever propped to another lanyard tied to the lower pulley to pull it down!

The shrouds are pulled tight by a number of blocks. On a few of my models, I've used all four. Depending on the wind direction, a few are sometimes not used if the sail is broken in such a way that it would rub against the shrouds. The shrouds that are left out are then attached to the leeside.
See the drawing


On port side are all four shrouds in use, on starboard only two. Because of the blocks these are easy to handle.
Constant

Steven, nice add with those crewmen tightening the shroud... but allow me to disagree there! I remember having seen a photo from the early fifties of the last century with two people doing this job on a small English schooner, much smaller than this one, and they used a small lever to tighten the shrouds. If you have the book "Schooners" by David R MacGregor just look on page 93, down right.
 
I mean, the tension on the shrouds is such that you can't properly do it by hand, and surely not by merely pulling it down with his hands as your guy is doing it!
 
More likely they had the upper pulley attached to a lanyard and used his weight on a strong lever propped to another lanyard tied to the lower pulley to pull it down!

In general I have completed work on the small boat. On the drawing it comes without metal fastenings for the mast, after some thought I decided to do it as on the drawing. What is left to do is to cover it with oil, make two slipways and install it inside the  longboat.

Hi Ian.
Steel-wire, cable-laid, 21 strands, 70 mm diameter in all, runs aft from the main steering-barrel in front of the chart-house, down from the Liverpool-House to the after deck over two rollers, mounted in these "slots", further aft then through some horizontal on-deck rollers to the tiller below the poop. And please don´t forget: 21 strands it has to be .
Cable-, not hawser-laid :-)
Gx Marten

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

The stand was too narrow and prone to tipping over (probably why the model got damaged in the first place) so I added some cross-beams to stabilise it a bit. Also added another coat of stain so everything matched.
 

Then I got to work untangling the rigging.  Turns out -AFTER I'd undone and redone the tangles that the model had been made to be disassembled so I might have been able to untangle everything more easily by simply pulling the mast out and rotating it. Sigh.
Anyway, finally got that all sorted, added the bowsprit and main boom,

re-rigged her, cleaned the deck again, and *finished*!

Regarding the name, I asked the owner. He had a cat called Misty and a dog called Deefer (think about it - Deefer dog). So she's Mistydeefer.
 
The owner's very happy with it.

Steven

Hello everyone,
Thanks for the comments Roger, KeithAug and Jim Lad.  Thanks everyone for the likes.
Short update here.
I have the pilot house and winch house doors built; need to do the engine house doors.
Working on the stack, whistle and RV discharge.
I think I may have a large enough batch of parts to paint soon.
Thanks for looking.
mcb
 

The Flirt is attacked by a giant mythical beast!

Shrouds being installed. Quite stressful with the shipyard inspector on site 😬