Doreltomin

Actually I also had some trouble with port and starboard, simply because in my own language we use the French terms (babord and tribord).
 
However some time ago I learned the English terms come from Viking times: "starboard" is in fact the "Steering-board" as the Viking ships were always steered with an steering oar put on the right side of the ship.
 
So if they had the steering oar always on the right, they landed always with the left side on the quay, so this was the "port" (harbour) side. As simple as "bonjour" (which is "Good day" in French).
 
And, by the way, the story goes that "babord" and "tribord" comes from mid 19th century when the French had several floating batteries used as depot ships. Each battery had the name "BATTERIE" and the number below, written with big white letters going all over on the round stern. So if you were looking from the left side, you would see "BA.... ". If you were looking from the right side, you would see "....TERIE". So this is from where they got the names "BA-bord" and "TERIE-bord"
 
As with your strakes, you should start with the first under the wales put parallel to it, then go down and taper the strake at the stem and at the stern as you see it necessary. Keep in mind that with the real thing they did never have straight long planks the size of the whole ship. Instead they used several shorter planks put in line for every strake, and as need arose, these planks were curved to make the proper round of the bow. Good luck with your planking!

Hey......
 
Port = Left (looking toward bow of ship).  Each word has four letters.
 
You will remember from now on.
 
Si
 
Sorry for the redundancy; I posted this before I got to page 2.
 

Actually I also had some trouble with port and starboard, simply because in my own language we use the French terms (babord and tribord).
 
However some time ago I learned the English terms come from Viking times: "starboard" is in fact the "Steering-board" as the Viking ships were always steered with an steering oar put on the right side of the ship.
 
So if they had the steering oar always on the right, they landed always with the left side on the quay, so this was the "port" (harbour) side. As simple as "bonjour" (which is "Good day" in French).
 
And, by the way, the story goes that "babord" and "tribord" comes from mid 19th century when the French had several floating batteries used as depot ships. Each battery had the name "BATTERIE" and the number below, written with big white letters going all over on the round stern. So if you were looking from the left side, you would see "BA.... ". If you were looking from the right side, you would see "....TERIE". So this is from where they got the names "BA-bord" and "TERIE-bord"
 
As with your strakes, you should start with the first under the wales put parallel to it, then go down and taper the strake at the stem and at the stern as you see it necessary. Keep in mind that with the real thing they did never have straight long planks the size of the whole ship. Instead they used several shorter planks put in line for every strake, and as need arose, these planks were curved to make the proper round of the bow. Good luck with your planking!

Actually I also had some trouble with port and starboard, simply because in my own language we use the French terms (babord and tribord).
 
However some time ago I learned the English terms come from Viking times: "starboard" is in fact the "Steering-board" as the Viking ships were always steered with an steering oar put on the right side of the ship.
 
So if they had the steering oar always on the right, they landed always with the left side on the quay, so this was the "port" (harbour) side. As simple as "bonjour" (which is "Good day" in French).
 
And, by the way, the story goes that "babord" and "tribord" comes from mid 19th century when the French had several floating batteries used as depot ships. Each battery had the name "BATTERIE" and the number below, written with big white letters going all over on the round stern. So if you were looking from the left side, you would see "BA.... ". If you were looking from the right side, you would see "....TERIE". So this is from where they got the names "BA-bord" and "TERIE-bord"
 
As with your strakes, you should start with the first under the wales put parallel to it, then go down and taper the strake at the stem and at the stern as you see it necessary. Keep in mind that with the real thing they did never have straight long planks the size of the whole ship. Instead they used several shorter planks put in line for every strake, and as need arose, these planks were curved to make the proper round of the bow. Good luck with your planking!

If you are looking for a color tone of aged copper(not green) look at copper pennies.  Lots of people collect coins,  I have an older coin or two.  Pennies that have been in circulation basically turn a dark brown very quickly.  I guess its all the dirt and oils form skin that causes it.  I bet there are some excellent photos on-line of copper coins more that 100 and 200 years old.  I would think that the more valulabe coins are the ones that show little wear from actual circulation. Therefore their current color will not have been influeced by dirt and oils.   I have seen pictures of old coins in coin books but  can never remember seeing the 1909-s Lincoln cent as a shiny penny.   It seems it is always brownish, but clear in the details. Coins are never supposed to be cleaned as it impacts thier value.   Hope this helps.
 
Phil Roach
NRG Director
President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild

Hello to you all fellow builders,

As you know , Mobbsie has ordered the HMS Agamemnon for me and finally she is in dry dock in Schiedam.
I will not start on her .
I have first finish the Le Mirage.
But when you have a new kit in the house , you want to show it.
That's the reason why I open a build log…...
First of course a little history lesson and later on the pictures of all the stuff that is in the box.
When I start on her I know I need a lot of help and advise from all of you.
I have a few great examples of other Aggy's and I know that Mobbsie will be there for me if needed.
So let the lesson begins and hopefully it will not take to long when I can start building her.




Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon 1781 1:64

HMS Agamemnon 1781 64 Gun 3rd Rate Ship of the Line 1:64 Scale.




The Agamemnon was one of seven ships built to the same design, drawn by the same naval architect that designed the famous Victory, Sir Thomas Slade. Agamemnon was the third to be built in the class, the first two being Ardent in 1762 and Raisonnable, laid down in 1763. Third was Agamemnon, followed by Belliqueux in 1778, Stately in 1779, Indefatigable in 1781 and finally the Nassau in 1783.




A Third Rate ship of the line like Agamemnon was an expensive warship to build. The construction of the ship’s hull with yards and masts fitted cost the Admiralty £20,579 (in today’s terms, approximately £12 million), a figure that did not include ordnance, sails, hemp, copper plating and other hardware.




For three of the most crucial decades in British naval history, Agamemnon always seemed to be at the centre of the action, having no less than eleven battle honours.




Agamemnon’s maiden voyage was on 9th July 1781 under the command of Captain Caldwell. Her first engagement was at the battle of Ushant on 12th December 1781 where the British fleet under Rear Admiral Kempenfelt defeated the French fleet and captured a significant number of ships, including the convoy the French were escorting. Agamemnon’s next major engagement was at the Battle of The Saints on 12th April 1782 where Rodney and Lord Hood’s fleet defeated Comte de Grasse’s French fleet.




On 7th January 1793, Nelson learned from Lord Hood that he had been chosen to command his first ship of the line, the Agamemnon. Although initially disappointed that he had not been given command of a 74, Nelson soon grew fond of Agamemnon. Nelson wrote to his wife, Fanny. She was, he said, "Without exception one of the finest ships in the fleet, with the character of sailing most remarkably well". He also wrote after twelve days in a storm in the Mediterranean in "Gales and lumping seas but in Agamemnon we mind them not; she is the finest ship I ever sailed in, and were she a 74, nothing should induce me to leave her while the war lasts". Even a French Commander Admiral Alemand expressed the view that Agamemnon was one of the fastest ships in the British Navy. That, coupled with Nelson’s inspirational command made her a very potent fighting unit.




Nelson commanded Agamemnon, or "eggs and bacon" as her crew affectionately called her, until 10th June 1796. In that time Nelson had proved to be a great Commander, tactically and physically.




It was during his command of Agamemnon that Nelson lost the sight of his right eye. When at the Siege of Calvi in 1794 during the morning of 10th July, Nelson was hit in the face and chest by splinters, stones and sand that were thrown up by an enemy shell that hit a battlement during a shore action. On 13th June 1796, Nelson’s broad pennant was transferred to the 74 gun Captain at anchor in San-Fiorenza bay. He watched the worn out Agamemnon sail to England for a much-needed refit. She was refitted from the bottom up at Chatham. When re-commissioned in 1797 she was ordered to join Admiral Duncan’s squadron off Yarmouth, which was keeping watch on the coast of Holland. She was immediately caught up in the naval mutinies of that year. Agamemnon was however considered untrustworthy by Richard Parker the leader of the Nore mutineers and had the guns of the mutinous ships trained on her to ensure she did not ‘blackleg’. Subsequently in the proceedings that followed all thirteen of Agamemnon’s crew who were tried were pardoned.




Agamemnon’s next major fleet engagement was the battle of Copenhagen on the 21st April 1801. Unfortunately she was grounded on a shoal for most of the action, but Nelson won the battle and a truce with Denmark was negotiated. On the 21st October 1805 Agamemnon took part in the battle of Trafalgar. When Nelsons favorite ship hove in sight a week before, with Nelsons old friend Sir Edward Berry in command of the Agamemnon, Nelson was delighted "Here comes that damned fool Berry! Now we shall have a battle." At Trafalgar the 27 British ships of the line defeated the Franco Spanish fleet of 33 line of battle ships in a victory that ensured British supremacy of the sea for the next 100 years. Later in Agamemnon’s career, she served in the West Indies, taking part in the battle of Santo Domingo, and then in South American waters. Agamemnon was wrecked in Maldonado Bay off the coast of Uruguay on the 16th June 1809. Divers have recently discovered the remains of HMS Agamemnon on the bottom of Maldonado Bay, after a six-year search by marine archaeologists. Strewn around the site are hundreds of copper plate, as well as a 24 pounder cannon, parts of the pumping devices as well as a significant amount of shot, bolts and copper nails. Also discovered was a silver pocket seal, complete with fob chain. On its face of translucent stone it bore a star shaped emblem with the name ‘Nelson’ in mirror image incised in a curve above.




Agamemnon was laid down at Bucklers Hard in May 1777 and launched on the 10th April 1781. Her dimensions were as follows;




Gun deck - 160 feet 2 inches


Keel- 131 feet 10 1/4 inches


Beam - 44 feet 5 inches


Tonnage - 1384 tons


Guns;


Twenty-six, twenty-four pounder - Gun deck.


Twenty-six, eighteen pounder - Upper deck.


Twelve, nine pounder - Quarterdeck.


Complement - 491 officers and ratings.




The Caldercraft Agamemnon kit features: Double plank on bulkhead construction, Keel and bulkheads are CNC cut in Birch ply as are all the major constructional parts. Extensive use of CNC cut Walnut has been employed for the majority of visible structures and fittings.


The wood strip pack contains Lime wood for the first planking, Walnut for the second planking and Tanganyka for the decks. Ramin dowel is supplied for the masts and yards.


Walnut and etched brass stern gallery windows, with the remaining tafrail decoration in finely cast white metal. Scale brass cannon barrels with walnut carriages.


Rigging thread is supplied in natural and black to rig the model as depicted in the photographs. Beechwood deck gratings and Walnut Blocks and deadeyes. Shroud cleats, trucks, stunsail yard brackets as well as CNC cut Walnut tops, crosstrees, trestle trees, mast caps and a wealth of unique detail parts. Copper plates are provided to sheath the hull bottom.


Fully detailed full size plans and a comprehensive construction manual.



Specifications:


Scale: 1:64


Length: 1300mm


Width: 490mm


Height 945mm


Planking: Double

It takes me almost two months to continue with report, but I made some progress. Hulls are finished and today I gluded all masts. Now I have to prepare some parts for standing rigging.
 
Jan
 
 

Dear friends,
 
after finishing of Revenge 1577 I decided to continue again with scratch build - not with another "war monster", but with two small ships, two of Columbus fleet, which returned back from the New World for the first time.
I used free plans from MODELARSTWO OKRETOWE web page ( http://www.modelarstwookretowe.pl/index.php?p=44 ) for Nina  ( there are downloadable plans for Santa Maria too ) and made projection for Pinta based on the same plan and pictures of model made from MO plan. I will also change sail plan  on Nina - all of sails will be latin.
 
I absolutely forget to start a new thread here ( shame on me ), now I´m in progress of hulls planking.  Bottom parts of hulls and decks are just finished. There are three layers of cartoon planking already - I want to make extremely strong and smooth hull ( there are only first and last layer taken on pfotos - the second one I glued across the first ). Upper parts of hull sides will be make from one piece of thick cartoon each one.
 
Here are some pictures from the progress.
 
Jan
 
 

Ok, here's one. Not nearly as elegant as the previous vessel, and with a rather inelegant end.
 

which suggest a WWI torpedo victim.....
 
Jan

Hello fellow ship modellers.
 
A update as promised. 
 
The fitting of the parts is tight if you don't remove the charring from the laser cutting.

 
Contours look nice although the bulkheads have yet to be sanded. 

 
The method used in assembly is fool proof and holds the keel very straight.

 
The stand has some very nice shape and design

 
We have decided that we will not continue the magazines and will cancel the subscription.
BUT this does not mean that we are not going to finish what we started..
We are going to do our own version of the Pearl with pictures from the web.
Should be fun and we can call the shots on what Alex wants in the ship
Will be using Birch ply for the remaining components of the build. And all sorts of hardwood timber that I have accumulated.
 
Many thanks for looking in.
Regards Antony and Alex

Hi Werik, that's right, you got her!
 
But the owner was not the State Railways (CFR),  but the SMR = Romanian Maritime Service. The connection with the train come from the fact that the passengers from the famous Orient Express were brought to Constanta and from here they took one of the SMR ships (either the Imparatul Traian or the sister ship Dacia) for the final wing of the journey to Istambul. During the first World War all the SMR ships were converted to auxiliary cruisers and while in Sevastopol, this one was seized by the Revolutionary (Red) forces (see b/w photo)before being reclaimed by the former owner at the end of the war. What do you think of a small scale model of this ship?
 
Your turn!

You could take one piece of 1/2 inch square material and glue two 1/8 inch sq. strips to it form the groove, that would leave you with a 1/8 inch groove for your glass. If you want a 1 inch post then you would need 3/8 inch strips and set them in 1/16 inch on each side that would also give you a 1/8 inch groove. If you don't want a reveal or you don't want to see two strips glued together just face it off with the appropriate sized plank. - no power tools required.

You might like to have a look at this log by Archjofo - some really outstanding work, and a great photoessay on doing exactly what you asked about.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1029-la-créole-by-archjofo-scale-148-french-corvette-of-1827-scratch-build/page-16

Doreltomin, I think a scale model of this ship would be beautiful! I nominate you as builder, I don't have the skills yet.There is an elegance about this ship and others from that time that far surpasses what is seen nowdays. I'm no nautical expert by any means, and I understand that form follows function sometimes, such as container ships. But... when I see most cruise ships, I lived in Miami for a period of time and saw them everyday on my way to work, I think of them as looking like seaborne toasters.  They lack any essence of elegance or grace. This is only my opinion of course, I'm sure that others would disagree, after all, beauty is in the eye of the beholder as the saying goes.  This was a fun search. The enjoyment of this game is in the search and gleaning interesting information along the way. Kinda like life. I will post tomorrow.  

Take a look at the Proxxon DB250.  I used it on my Badger and really liked it.  It was very well made, stable and easy to use.  I sold it after getting my hands on a Sherline, but if you are planning on staying with wood turning, I don't think you can go wrong with it.

Update April 15.
Glued all the frames, the 2 square bars that go all the length of them and a small piece that seems to be some sort of a holding place for the main mast.
 
Making sure frame one is 90o to the keel

 
Double check

 
A few more frames

 

 
Making sure at every step along the way, that everything is as it should.... and still mistakes happen

 
Completed all the frames. Views from different angles.

 

 

 

 

 
So far, so good!
 
Thanks for watching.

Oh my God! Look at the size of this skeleton. It fills my table! And without bowsprit!!
Where am I going to do the actual work??? 

Hello all,
 
@George, don't bother with the flag, I said previously that I have tampered with two easy key-points of identification: the flag and the name written high on the bulwark. Better think of the ship architecture, which will eventually led you into which period, who built the ship and for which company. Also, don't forget the clues: she had another sister-ship and were both connected to a train - certainly NOT in the Baltic!
 
And by the way, she never heard German in her life (except for some German passenger, of course) neither when built, nor when she was in service. On the contrary, she always was in the opposite side with the German-speaking world, Swiss not taken into account, of course, as they always have been neutral and have no battle fleet
 
@Jud, the same for me, I see this game in its utmost sense as a wonderful opportunity to learn stories about ships. We come from different corners of the world and what may be familiar for me is not familiar for you so it's a good opportunity to share naval stories and learn more about our pet subject!

My excuse for building this wonderful ship was my wife "Bella" she is Swedish and her great great grandfather was the Top sail man on her when they won the Americas cup. He stood at the cross trees and hauled the top sail Tack up and over the Gaff complete with the down haul block and sheets No mean effort when you think that we are talking about heavy possibly wet canvas and wood blocks and hemp lines!! He was nicknamed "Swedish Steam" for his strength and ability to stand up there doing his job as the boat healed over going up wind 
A beautiful model The rigging is very interesting as it is a soft wire and fun to work with 
Ironically we live in Bristol Rhode Island where there is the Herrishoff America's cup museum and a picture of "Swedish Steam" the yacht and the rest of the crew
Happy building
Andy

Quite normal in fact, this is the typical rig on most period Navy Board Models. Or at least those which have any rig at all, because most of them have no rig or have only the typical launch apparel instead (a suite of big flags). The idea behind this is the fact that:
 
a) no matter how fine the cloth you use, it is much too coarse if considered reduced to scale for your model. So if you want a "true" appearance for your model, better show it without sails.
 
sails weren't a permanent fixture on their masts, nor were all the parts of the rigging set all the time except when going on a high sea with all sails set.
 
As many period drawing shows, with ships in harbour many parts of the rigging were dismantled and stowed in the hold or on the deck, sometimes even the upper parts of the masts. This was especially true for the pieces of canvas which were costly and fragile, could get damp and rot quickly, so any experienced skipper knew that the first thing to do when in port is to get your sails dried then take them off and put them in storage in a dry and ventilated area. 
 
An observation though with the above picture(s): if the model is presented without sails, then the yards of the upper sails must be presented in the lowered position. Except the yards of the main sails which were fixed, all the upper sail yards were mobile (could go up and down their mast segment) and were raised in the upper position only when carrying a sail on them!

Hi Denis,
 
I hope you don't mind my pulling up a chair.  I'll be tagging along on this journey.  

Hello Denis!
 
I can't wait to see what someone with your skills (and new toys) can accomplish with a ship as beautiful as this one, particularly after what I have seen in your Sovereign of the Seas!  And I am so very happy that I am lucky enough to watch from the very first steps and have my pencil and paper ready to take notes and learn as you go!

Hello all,
 
@George, don't bother with the flag, I said previously that I have tampered with two easy key-points of identification: the flag and the name written high on the bulwark. Better think of the ship architecture, which will eventually led you into which period, who built the ship and for which company. Also, don't forget the clues: she had another sister-ship and were both connected to a train - certainly NOT in the Baltic!
 
And by the way, she never heard German in her life (except for some German passenger, of course) neither when built, nor when she was in service. On the contrary, she always was in the opposite side with the German-speaking world, Swiss not taken into account, of course, as they always have been neutral and have no battle fleet
 
@Jud, the same for me, I see this game in its utmost sense as a wonderful opportunity to learn stories about ships. We come from different corners of the world and what may be familiar for me is not familiar for you so it's a good opportunity to share naval stories and learn more about our pet subject!

Hello all,
 
@George, don't bother with the flag, I said previously that I have tampered with two easy key-points of identification: the flag and the name written high on the bulwark. Better think of the ship architecture, which will eventually led you into which period, who built the ship and for which company. Also, don't forget the clues: she had another sister-ship and were both connected to a train - certainly NOT in the Baltic!
 
And by the way, she never heard German in her life (except for some German passenger, of course) neither when built, nor when she was in service. On the contrary, she always was in the opposite side with the German-speaking world, Swiss not taken into account, of course, as they always have been neutral and have no battle fleet
 
@Jud, the same for me, I see this game in its utmost sense as a wonderful opportunity to learn stories about ships. We come from different corners of the world and what may be familiar for me is not familiar for you so it's a good opportunity to share naval stories and learn more about our pet subject!