Doreltomin

In the US, the foot is based on the International Foot which = 0.3048 meter.  The US foot is essentially the same - the conversion just takes it to 10 decimal places (1 US Foot = 0.3048006096 meters).  For those of us geeky enough to want more info, the National GS has a PDF format document from the National Bureau of Standards in 1959 (NBS is now NIST) called Refinement of Values for the Yard and Pound that defines the "U.S. Survey foot" as 1200/3937 meter or 0.3048006096 meters. For more detail on the SI units, see http://www.nist.gov/pml/wmd/metric/metric-program.cfm
 
The SI meter is now defined as the length of the path traveled by the light in vacuum during a time interval of 1/299,792,458 of a second.

Hello Alan,
 
I took my own copy of Wolfram zu Monfeld "Historic Ship Models"  and opened it at page 66, and found the said list of different measurements. I believe we have the same book, is it the one published by Sterling Publishing Co, Inc. NY?  
 
There's indeed a list which gives the English foot to be 308.0 mm, but I wonder if this is right. To my knowledge, the dimension of English foot did not change at least from the 17th century until nowadays, so if they did change anything into the 19th century it was the way they "translated" it into a meter, not the dimension itself. 
 
Moreover, in my calculations I always use the English inch of 25.4 mm yet I have an old Hütte engineer's manual which I have inherited from my father which gives one English inch to be 25.399956 mm. The difference is very small, yet as you said, if you add many inches together, it can get a significant amount. 
 
This only happens if you work your model metric and always try to "translate" your measurements from the old imperial units into milimeters.
 
Here is the really nice part when working with imperial units: if you use an imperial scale and use a measuring tool divided in inches and fractions of an inch, working for example your model to a scale of 1' = 1"  your model will always be true to its scale of 1:12. Moreover, if instead the English foot you will use a measuring tool divided into French feet or Swedish feet to measure a plan which is made into these units, the model will still be 1:12. Of course, this only works if that unit is sub-divided into 12 inches. It will not work for the Amsterdam foot which was divided into 11 duimen. Don't ask me why, and moreover, how on Earth they managed to divide that foot into 11 equal parts   
 
So if using a different foot or a different way of translating your foot into milimeters, your model will still be accurately proportioned (supposed you made it accurately) only the scale which you know to be a true 1:48 may in fact be 1:51.5 or 1:46,79 or something like that. It's just a question of numbers. This applies as well with the old Navy Board models, many of which are known to be built in 1:48 scale, yet if measured carefully, some of these models show not to be built at a true 1:48 scale but to a slightly different scale, depending on which measuring tools the model maker used and how accurately these tools were made. 
 
Here:  
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot_(unit)
 
you have an abstract of the measuring ways used in Europe from the early times (it is a wiki source so use with the due caution as it is known for the wikipedia sources not to be always reliable) and here:
 
http://www.historiaviva.org/cocina/medidas_v2-ing.shtml
 
a review of the measuring system in Spain in early 15th century. 
 
Hope this helps!

The tools needed to get started in card modeling are ridiculously few.  Basically, you need a cutting tool and some glue.  Everything else is optional.
 
Here's some basic tools:

 
You'll need a self-healing cutting mat, available from most office supply or crafts stores.  Next, you need something to cut with.  Notice the lack of scissors in the picture.  Most card modelers rarely use them.  Instead, your garden-variety craft knife will do the job nicely and with more precision.  Get a good supply of #11 blades -- card can be surprisingly hard on them.  A steel rule is a must, not just for measuring, but more importantly for cutting straight lines.
 
Glue is, of course, essential.  A variety of glues will do the job, and each has merits and drawbacks.  Good ol' PVA glue, either white (such as Elmer's) or yellow (wood glue -- hey, paper is wood, you know) are good general purpose glues with one proviso: it must be remembered that PVA glues are water-based, and card or paper will absorb the glue and deform.  Thus, PVA is not good for gluing large surfaces together.
 
Cyanoacrylate glue, or CA (commonly known as 'Super Glue', which is a brand name), has its uses in card modeling.  Fast-cure CA can be wicked into card stock to stiffen it, and medium-cure CA is useful for gluing parts made of different media together, as well as for paper-to-paper bonds.
 
Contact cement (not to be confused with rubber cement) is a non-water-based glue and thus good for gluing large surfaces together where severe warping would occur with a PVA glue.  Contact cement sets rapidly, so repositioning of parts once they come in contact with each other is iffy at best.
 
Modelers in Europe have access to UHU-brand glues that some modelers swear by.  I haven't come across any myself, so I haven't had a chance to try them out.  Polish modelers, who seem to be born with a master card modeler gene in their DNA, use something called 'butapren'; I'm not a chemist, so I'm not familiar with what exactly butapren glue is, and it doesn't seem to be easily available in the US, possibly because it is a favorite of glue sniffers.  Perhaps someone with knowledge of this substance can fill us in.
 
Now, on to some optional stuff that you'll probably want to have on hand:

 
From left to right we have:
     blackened, annealed wire - an assortment of diameters is useful for making gun barrels, railings, etc.      styrene rod - card can be rolled into tubes, but for tiny tubes, styrene is often a better choice      assorted paint brushes - for painting, but also for aids in rolling tubes      tweezers      paint, marking pens, or other media for coloring cut edges (more on this later)      calipers - for measuring card stock thickness, especially when laminating sheets together      hobby pliers (not pictured) - for cutting and forming wire (end nippers, needle nose, round nose)  
Some other useful items to have are thin, flexible, clear acetate sheets (for glazing windows), matte clear spray varnish (for prepping parts sheets), and 3M spray adhesive (for laminating card and/or paper sheets together).  3M costs more than other brands, but take my advice, it's worth the money.  Cheaper brands don't coat as evenly and produce clumpier spray patterns.  Trust me -- I learned this the hard way.
 
I'm sure there's some other stuff I forgot to list, but I'll add those if and when I remember them.  Now, go get your supplies, and we'll move on to the model!
 
Back to Part III: Shopping for Card Models     On to Part V: Building V108 - The Hull

Oops  that makes me a dummy!
 
Murphys77 - we like your ship please reload your log of it.
 
Cheers
Alistair

Hi Nigel, I am looking forward to watching this build, sounds like you have given yourself a lot of extra work, in a good way though!
The exposed frames between the wales sounds like a nice detail and it will be good to see how you go about creating the new stern.
Good Luck!
M.

Hi All, 
 
This is my second model, I hope you will like my log and do not hesitate to say your opinion and suggestions.. 
 
 

Personally I prefer the bottom fill method to avoid bubbles and empty cavities.   Here are some pics with off-the-shelf resin/mold kit...there are plenty of techniques to learn and a tutorial would be welcome.  You can send it to me and I will post it in the database of articles.  The part you are looking at is only about 3/4" long if I remember correctly.
 
Chuck
 
 

Having finally completed the Triton x-section, it's time to return to this, my first attempt at a plank on frame scratch build. It is the Tasmanian built barque Harriet McGregor from the plans by Harold Underhill, scale is 1:60. Originally started before Dry Dock Models was in operation, I lost interest in it due to the number of mistakes made in the earlier stages of construction that began to affect the build at the current point. The worst mistake: frame extensions above deck level should have been reduced in thickness prior to the waterway installation. I have done what I can to rectify this without pulling the waterways out (not practical), but will have to live with the consequences and work around the problem, hoping other small details will draw the eye from the larger inaccuracies. Having said all that, the model to date does bear a vague resemblance to the plans.
 

 
Grant.

nogmaals foto

After 6 monds I'll have put the hull of this model into the bin.It was not what I did want and the model was not strait.
Today I have started to build the ship again and I'll hope I can give You a update every month.
On the foto the trownaway model.
greetings cees

continuation...
 
Deck nails imitation made as well using brass wire but in this case 0,5mm...
 
...becouse I broke few drills I said stop... and I made drill from... brass wire with sharp end... worked brilliant


 

 

 

 

 

 
...some overview of decks
 

 

 
...nothing special, just walls
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...after all I started bulkheads, keel, sternpost, steam and finally planking...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...meanwhile some ladders...
 

 

 
...and planking of course pear wood. Bow planking calibrate to avoid stealers. I formed planks using only water and 36,6 deree celsius from my hands. Pear lath if was cut properly it'll be very flexible Imitation of taring on the edge of each lath was made using soft pencil.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Sjors: The sweater is in the closet now.    I don't know about the fix being better than the original, but I am happy with it. Hopefully there will be pictures tomorrow.
 
Bob:    Actually, when it happened I couldn't make a sound - in shock I guess.
 
John: Thanks for words of support and encouragement. I'm discovering that a lot of members here have had similar mishaps.
 
Popeye: Thanks! Happy to report it's fixed!!

...

Hello all,
 
Here are some progress pictures.
Thank you.

...

Dear Robert,

Your work is absolutely amazing and unique. Something like this is very rare. Thank you very much for sharing, and accept my deepest admiration to your masterpiece.

Kind regards

Doris

Hello Robert,
your explanation with the photo series is very understandable.
This is an outstanding performance.

That's outrageously beautiful Robert!!!
 
Cheers,

All hands on deck.............................he i said aaaalllllll haaaaands
 
After I make the many hooks, eyes and blocks (for the guns) have already spots before the eyes, was a small relaxation törn due for the eyes
 
Therefore, I once make another figure from the bulwark ornament.

The images come in the series of steps.
 
After the figure was transferred to paper and glued to the bone support, it was sawn on the contours.
 
And now have fun with the pictures:
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Have fun

Steamship Heinrich Kayser
 
Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann
 
The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years.
After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly.
I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers.
It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922
The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows.
The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc.
The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models
Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup
 
Nils
 
Here it Begins.....
 
Build log part1
 

this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing"
 

this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser
 

overview plan frontsection
 

overview plan aftsection
 

stringers and single-layer planking in pine
 

 

 

planking under way, propshaft built in
 

Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan
 

planking nearly completed
 
 
 
Part 2 to follow....

As work is moving well on the construction of my Caroline build,preliminary work is now starting on my next'bill paying' project.This is based on the Euromodel kit,but it is my intention to push the boundaries of what can be achieved with a kit.I shall be using construction techniques for the hull that have been developed by myself,specifically for this build.The completed model shall include the following details;
1/hull planking in boxwood and ebony
2/hull planking omitted between the upper wales with false boxwood frames,this is a feature on quite a few Navy board models which I am quite fond of and an alternative from a fully framed build.
3/Full hull interior,lower gun deck upwards,with planking sections omitted on the upper decks for viewing the interior.
4/Remodelling of the stern to replicate the drawing by Van de Velde the Elder.
This project will be a 'slow burn' until Caroline is finished,but I am starting this log now to avoid missing anything as work progresses.I am trying to avoid starting another log with a planked hull  
Some photos to wet your appetite

The box,rather heavy,given it's size

Mordaunt by Van de Velde the elder
 
Kind Regards Nigel

We'll I tried my pens on a couple of planks to see the results and Danny was spot on. The brush tip was much easier to control on the side of a thin plank and by doing just one side of two boards butted up to each other a very scale appearance of caulking is produced.

Geoff
Thanks, it has helped me considerably since I have never used these types of power tools. One of the reasons I support and contribute to MSW is to make sure this community continues to be a meeting place where I can learn from the more experienced... and I have found that there is a heck of a lot of experience out there.
Richard

Name the Ship:
 

 
Sorry, this is the best image I could find of this ship, a sail plan, but sufficiently detailed to identify it.
Retouched to remove "give-away" details (like the name of the ship).

Hello Kevin and Eamonn, that's what I love most to this game, it gives you a good opportunity to find out things about various ships with so interesting histories. Thanks for posting that!  @ Titanic: please, come in and have a seat.. it's free for everybody to guess the ship and, if you guess, then you can post the next one!
 
Cheers,
 
Dorin.
 
P.S: Kevin, don't forget it's your turn!