Doreltomin

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

Maybe TMB comes instead from "Too Many Boxes" (Kits in the stash)? 🤨

The stand was too narrow and prone to tipping over (probably why the model got damaged in the first place) so I added some cross-beams to stabilise it a bit. Also added another coat of stain so everything matched.
 

Then I got to work untangling the rigging.  Turns out -AFTER I'd undone and redone the tangles that the model had been made to be disassembled so I might have been able to untangle everything more easily by simply pulling the mast out and rotating it. Sigh.
Anyway, finally got that all sorted, added the bowsprit and main boom,

re-rigged her, cleaned the deck again, and *finished*!

Regarding the name, I asked the owner. He had a cat called Misty and a dog called Deefer (think about it - Deefer dog). So she's Mistydeefer.
 
The owner's very happy with it.

Steven

Hello everyone,
Thanks for the comments Roger, KeithAug and Jim Lad.  Thanks everyone for the likes.
Short update here.
I have the pilot house and winch house doors built; need to do the engine house doors.
Working on the stack, whistle and RV discharge.
I think I may have a large enough batch of parts to paint soon.
Thanks for looking.
mcb
 

FIRST THANK YOU ALL for your quick responses.   It seems I have been on the right track with the spacing as lacking other information until now, went with the station lines.    
Dean,
This is how I have gone as well.  I first saw this in Frolich's The Art of Ship Modeling and a highly regarded MSW member showed me a plug he had made (I think before there was an MSW😀)  Originally I made the plug to the outside of the frames and cut grooves for the frames.   Due to the high risk of a frame getting stuck when removing the hull I change to carving the plug to the inside dimension of the frames and rest the frames on top of the plug.  The thickness of individual pieces of the plug are the same as the distance from station line to station line.
Couple pictures follow.  I think this is similar to what you describe.
 
Thanks again to all of you
 
Allan

The Flirt is attacked by a giant mythical beast!

Shrouds being installed. Quite stressful with the shipyard inspector on site 😬
 

Greetings!
 
On to the Jewel.  When I bought Foss landing, there was an option to purchase 2 waterline boats to go with the Foss diorama, the Jewel and the Addison.  Up first is the Jewel.  The waterline molded boat is pretty good with regard to detail.  I first used a white primer for the base layer.  Below the lower wale was painted red, above left white.  The decks were painted off white.  here is a photo at this stage:

The deckhouse is built using a template with the boards weathered and painted as described previously, then glued directly onto the paper template.  This next photo shows the process with the portholes supplied.  They were a variety of colors with a gloss finish.  3 are in their original state, 3 have been "roughed up" and painted grimy black.

 
This next one is the aft wall before painting, and the portholes with "rust."
 

Portholes now installed.  I painted the roof a speckled white like the walls and then realized that it should have been black.  Easy enough to fix and it can be seen on later photos.

 
The walls were then glued to the appropriate place on the boat.  Rather than try to glue the whole thing at once, I first glued just the forward wall with epoxy.  When that set, I bent the walls around the former on the deck to achieve the final structure.  Because the walls are pretty flimsy, some wood was added to the perimeter at the top to give more gluing area for the roof.  The front window is installed around this step too.  Instructions call for the plastic to be fogged using DioSol, however, I decided to go with a clearer window as I could not imaging running a boat with windows that were too foggy. 
 

The rear wall is then glued on when complete.  I thought the deckhouse looked too empty, especially with the clear "glass" in place.  So, prior to putting the roof on, I decided to try to make a ships wheel using some spare ship modelling parts. 

 
The rings are small mast hoops; wood strips cut from 0.5 x 5 mm strip to 0.5 x 1 mm.  The central hub is a rough 3 mm circle of styrene. 
 

 
Here is the result.  Looks ok, considering it will be inside the deckhouse.  I made one for the Addison as well. 

And here's what it looks like inside the deckhouse.

Once the roof is installed, the horn, some sort of ?smokestack and ?vent are installed.  Weathering and rust applied to ship. The hardware for the rigging has been installed as well.  This includes several eyebolts, 4 cleats and door / hatch handles.  Unfortunately, I somehow lost the cleats that came with the kit.  Luckily, I had some spares from a prior model that were close enough in size, so I used 2 of these that were slightly larger aft, and 2 from the Addison will be used forward.  I also used smaller eyebolts as I felt the ones in the kit were a bit too large for the HO scale (full size would translate to a 10-inch eyebolt).  And finally, the name was changed to "Golden Jewel."  When researching ships of this size, the name is often on some sort of wooden or metal plaque attached to the hull.  I reduced and printed a very small name and glued it to a thin wood strip, then glued this to the hull.

 
Next post will be the rigging. 
 
Jeff
 

Excellent model! As for the tendency to turn after you start going straight, probably the steering oars will help to correct that too.

Hi everybody,
 
40 years ago I got a kit of a wooden brig as a christmas gift … the task of planking the hull in combination with poor instructions and the lack of available informations set an end to this project. As I still love wooden model ships I have decided to try it again. For the restart I have picked the Albatros from Occre - 1:100 scale and already did it past the stage of planking … and I love it…
 
I am addicted to frigates of the 18th century and have read all of the Hornblower books and have seen all the movies so HMS Indefatigable from Vanguard Models is the one I want to build in the future. On my way to her I will have to learn a lot and get used to the techniques I will need. In addition I want to get used to the Vanguard-style and plan to work my way up by building one of their cutters, the HMS Grecian, the Speedy and the Sphinx before I will finally be able to try the Indy.
 
All help I will get from you is highly appreciated an maybe … some day … I will be of help to other fellow shipbuilders.
 
Kai

Excellent model! As for the tendency to turn after you start going straight, probably the steering oars will help to correct that too.

Excellent model! As for the tendency to turn after you start going straight, probably the steering oars will help to correct that too.

Ian, am I wrong in thinking you haven't discussed these plans with your better half? 

This was the first Halinski kit I ever made, years ago. I was deeply impressed by the detailing and the way everything fitted together like a glove. Especially the outer skin, covering the cockpit made me aware that every mistake made on the inside had disastrous results for the outside. I learned sanding a model here. (I never use laser cut frames) Many, many Halinski models followed. By now the model is still on the shelf, but it has been heavily attacked by paper fishes, which seem to especially like the printing ink. And though much of the color has faded nowadays I still cannot get myself so far as to throw the model into the dustbin. It was a wonderful experience building a top-kit like this one and I am looking forward for your report.

What Roger suggested is what I do. Stretch SilkSpan on a frame wet and let it dry. It will then be drum tight and without wrinkles. Paint to taste with one or more coats of dilute acrylic paint. I actually paint the seams with thicker acrylic paint using an old fashioned bow pen. The blades are adjustable for line width. Ta da! For very small scales, pencil would be easier.

Hello,
after some days with snow and sunshine I'm now back at the shipyard. In Dec. we had here in Schleswig-Holstein an average of 5 hours sunshine!
Cutting the planks for the gangway

The painter has painted the knees and the carpenters made the planks ready for installing.

In the front on both sides are cavel blocks

And now is the gangway ready, except for the rails to the outside, who come when the whole ship would be mainly ready.

" Mark Meester "
A typical Flemish or Dutch name.
Are you sure you live in Canada? 😉

Hello everyone,
 
Thank you very much for allowing me to join this group. Good to be here.
 
I joined MSW a week ago at the suggestion of another member here, but haven’t gotten around to an intro until now.
 
I’m a 62 year old retired Deckhand/Deck Officer formerly with the Canadian Coast Guard of the Federal Government of Canada. I was at that career for 35 years and 4 months.
 
Born and raised on the coast of British Columbia, I currently live in Warman, Saskatchewan (just North of Saskatoon). I moved here in 2016 for family reasons.
 
I am essentially a beginner scale modeler. Here is my modeling story, hopefully in brief…….
 
I just recently finished my first completed scale model build in 50+ years. I had finally gotten around to checking out THE hobby store here in Saskatoon 5 years after moving here. It was an unplanned opportunistic visit. Walked out with an Academy 1/400 Titanic and another much simpler non ship model. That was in June 2022. Both models sat untouched all of last winter.
The non ship model was purchased mainly for a nostalgic reason and is yet to be built. I’ll be starting that one soon and I intend to post a build log for that in the Non-Ship forum. There is more than just the nostalgic reason for that build now. It will be a great model to develop skills. Detail painting and airbrushing in particular.
 
As for the recently “completed” kit….that would be the 1/400 Titanic. I started it in early November and “completed” it mid January. I will post some pictures and text about it in the Completed Gallery soon.
In the meantime, I just want to say that I started that model without any prior research or a plan. Just dove in, having no idea what to expect after a 50+ year hiatus from plastic scale modeling. It is also the most complex plastic scale model I have ever attempted, by far. I was somewhat disappointed with it, in the end. I attribute this to two aspects. My skill level (essentially a green as grass beginner) and the model itself as manufactured (historical inaccuracies; fit issues; and fine detail painting required where I would have preferred parts to attach).
Having said that, I thoroughly enjoyed the process and want another crack at it. Therefore, I’m going bigger. I’ve purchased the Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic. It arrived yesterday 😊. I have read the pinned article “For Beginners – A Cautionary Tale”. I intend to not give up. Many lessons already learned from the 1/400 build, and many many more lessons to come, and learn, and skills to develop. I’ve been researching the 1/200 quite a bit, the last two weeks. I am already aware that it too has inaccuracies. Some of which I will deal with, whereas others I will accept as is. But I digress. This build will not start for quite some time. I will begin a build log on that project when the time comes, but in the meantime I intend to focus on much smaller and simpler builds to develop my lacking skills.
 
One final note….a brother of mine gave me a Corel 1/25 “Sloup”, Modello SM 43, wooden kit as a Christmas gift some 25+ years ago. It is a model of a small French F/V. I still have it. I actually started it, way back, but then after three rows of the planking done, I got to the difficult task of needing to bend the next rows for the hull’s buttock lines where they meet the transom. I tried, but eventually gave up. I learned years later that there’s more to it than simply holding and bending said planks in the steam of a boiling kettle of water, as the instructions indicated.
I also learned on this site that difficulty with planking is the single most deterrent to a wooden ship modeler from continuing. That is actually comforting to now know. But I digress. Point being I intend to continue and complete this kit as well, but that’s a few years down the road.
 
Again, thank you very much for the privilege. I look forward to learning many aspects and techniques of scale modeling from the wealth of expertise here.
 
Cheers,
Mark Meester

Everyone knows (a minima) each other in the ship model-building world, and Michel helped me, for many years, a lot with his very pertinent and historic well-informed advices.  The only thing I didn't know about him (as he was a very discreet person) was that we both studied at exactly the same school, and that I have just learnt it here, on the MSW forum !

Here is another option using rub-on letters as stencils.
 
1. Get some rub-on letters in the desired font and size. Color doesn't matter.
 
2. Paint an area with the desired letter color (white for example). Let the paint dry thoroughly.
 
3. Rub on the letters, placing them carefully, of course.
 
4. Paint over it all with the background color (black, for example).
 
5. Let the paint dry.
 
6. Use tape to remove the rub-on letters.
 
Now you have white letters on the black background (or whatever colors you use). There is no decal film around the letters, and they are only as thick as a layer of paint. The lettering will not yellow as decals do over time.
 
I have been using this process for many years, and other that getting the rub-on letters aligned properly it is pretty simple.

Thanks for the comment CDW and thanks to all the others for the likes and the wows.   Not sure my work lives up to a "wow" but I'll take it.
 
So I said the exhaust was next but I skipped ahead a little bit and worked on painting the wheels.   The wheels presented a couple of conundrums.
 
But first, back when I built the Ferrari shown above, I wondered about the goldish tone of wheels on race cars from around 1970 and google told me all about "DOW 7".  For those unfamiliar, the wheels were made of magnesium to reduce weight, but it is fairly reactive to the environment, so the magnesium was coated with some chemical mix to prevent corrosion.  "DOW 7" is the current name for one such mix; not sure if that is what it was called back in 1970.  It is a sort of non-metallic goldish tan color, sometimes with a little tinge of green, though looking at net pictures of magnesium wheels shows a wide variety of color.
 
As for the conundrums (conundra?), the various pictures and youtube videos of this car (not to mention models of this car) show a variety of wheels and a variety of schemes for coloration of the wheels, usually with a silver rim along with some parts in a goldish color, and some times black as well.   So the first issue was just how to paint the wheels.   For the front, as shown, I've gone with a black inner section, gold wheel, with some silver trim around the edge.  The rears are a different style and very deep so I did not do the black inner section on them.
 
The second conundrum is regarding the gold color.  Was the gold wheel on the 72D a magnesium wheel coated with DOW 7?  Or was the wheel painted gold to match the livery of the car, with the gold stripes?   As much as I might have wanted the latter, I assumed the former.
 
So I started out painting the wheels with the dreaded alclad gloss black, thinking I might be painting some polished aluminum over it, though that did not occur.  I then did a light mist coat of flat "German Grey" Tamiya paint just to knock down the gloss and blackness of the inner part a bit.  Then I masked the inner wheel section and painted the wheel with Alclad's "pale gold".    That was the first time I used it, and I have to say it went on beautifully.  At that point I was tempted to pretend the wheels were painted gold to match the livery and let it go.  But no, I continued with my original plan to attempt to make the wheels more "DOW 7"ish, and put on a mist coat of Tamiya Flat Earth with a couple of drops of green in it.  Finally, I went around the rim of the wheel using the molotow chrome paint marker.  Below is what it looks like now.  I'll likely go over the rim with another pass or two of the molotow paint marker and then maybe shoot the whole thing with a semi-gloss clear coat.  But, even as is, I am quite pleased with how this came out.
 
If you made it this far, thanks for reading this overly long explanation for painting a wheel
 

You need a pharmacist's pill-counting machine!

I really admire your work, Rob. I know how difficult it is to get a near-perfect natural metal finish like that. Beautiful. And I love that subject too, it's always been a favorite of mine the P-38.

Excellent looking model, if it weren't for the support would say a real plane! Also it was much feared by the Germans during the war, which called P38 "The two-tailed Devil".

Excellent looking model, if it weren't for the support would say a real plane! Also it was much feared by the Germans during the war, which called P38 "The two-tailed Devil".