turangi

There are some tough decisions and I found the same problem as you with regard to the amount of line provided. Although there is a minimal amount of rigging on the model sans sails it may still look a bit like a Road & Track cutaway of a Birdcage Maserati.

Looking very nice, rigging is a challenge! I have been working on rigging my model and have found that all blocks and fittings are not needed if you are not making sails for the vessel. as an example, the Gaff topsail halyard may look a bit strange without a sail attached. Several models built without sails on this site do not have the fitting and block on the upper mast as it would a bit strange without a sail. I suppose you could attach the fitting and not rig it in anticipation of of sails being fitted during the rebuild of the vessel if that is what you are representing. There are other blocks, lines etc. that also might look out of place with no sails.

Kurt, I just made a long overdue second donation. This site is outstanding and as a relative neophyte I have received priceless advice and encouragement here from many modelers including those I consider masters of the craft! They have also saved me from buying useless tools, mediocre kits and books that would be of no use. Those savings alone more than equal my donation. As a moderator on a different non-model site I am thoroughly impressed with the operation here, pleasant, polite and helpful members always willing to assist any other member with a problem or query. Although membership here is no cost I fully realize that the operation of this site is an expensive proposition and needs the support of it's members. I encourage all members to think about the value they have received here from membership and send a contribution to keep this wonderful resource running and active! We would all rue the day it disappeared from lack of member support so contribute anything you feel appropriate in order to keep enjoying this site and the company of fellow members here.

A bit of progress and a couple of questions. I started the rigging by reeving the dead eyes that secure the shrouds, I used a Manila colored line as I thought if they ever needed adjustment on an actual boat due to stretching or mast flexing if they were tarred it would make that task more difficult. I have seen it done with simulated black tarred line or natural colored line on various models and was not sure which would be correct? I do admit I rather like the contrast of the Manila with the black shroud. I have temporarily secured the lanyards to the shrouds and may need to revise them some for a neater appearance before securing them with PVA. My question is this: on an actual boat do you cut off the excess lanyard flush at the secured point or leave some excess for undoing the secured area and giving some extra purchase to readjust them? I also mounted the starboard running light and mount but this was fairly straightforward.

Thanks all, it was an enjoyable little project.

A small update. I did some touch up painting on the hull and while waiting on that to dry made some small accessories. Any repair yard would need some saw horses, a saw and a square to work on the new planking. I cobbled them together from some scrap wood and used a bit of sheet brass to fashion the blades for the saw and square.

Did a bit more work, I am trying to finish up all the bits that can be done before starting major rigging. More likely I am procrastinating starting that task as I think it will be a challenge. I tend to do this but once I start I thoroughly enjoy it. I finished mounting the winch, mounted the horse at the stern, finished the cabin doors and installed fake fasteners in the simulated new planks in the open area of the hull. I thank Sea Hoss for his post about using brush bristles, worked a treat and my thinning hair shan't miss them!

Is this still available?

Certainly well past time for an update! I have been busy during the nice weather contemplating projects that needed done around the house. I managed to do a lot of of contemplation and possibly succeeded in accomplishing about 10% of them Perhaps a blessing or curse being retired and having no Admiral to motivate me. In addition, one of my joys in life was travel and I had not been away since March 7, 2020 when I escaped from Auckland via Sydney, San Francisco and Chicago, I was sure I was a dead man but did survive. So I recently threw caution to the winds and went over to Hawaii for a couple weeks before I went mad. My late wife and I went there often and I needed some salt water on my skin. I hope I am not violating any rules but want to post this song that always brings me joy reminding me of my wife after I travel to Hawaii. I always get a bit contemplative but comforted after a trip there after my wife had passed. Enough digressing, I spent a fair amount of time rigging as much as possible before I install the mast, boom etc. as it seemed easier than doing it after installing the bits, really no photos were taken, perhaps after installation. I installed the bowsprit and completed the gammons, a couple of photos. I simulated bolts with plastic rod I tried to make six sided. I installed the trim board after hand painting it. I actually did them in two parts, not sure that was the best option and perhaps bending them to fit would have been better? I next turned my attention to the boat name at the bow and and stern. I knew hand painting was not an option and I was not happy with the printed sheet provided with the kit. I bought some decal sheets for use in my inkjet printer and am fairly happy with the result. The bow was easy but stern not so much. I had neither the program or more probably the paucity of expertise to create the curved lettering for the stern so I pinched a photo from another member here (thank you Ahb26!) and used that to make the decal. It turned out that making and applying the decals was a fairly complicated process and rather than elaborate on the procedure if there is any interest I will expand on the details. Finally, I sealed the deck with a matte finish and any other raw wood also.

Your model looks wonderful, great job! I am still working on mine and you inspire me to complete it. Hoss, I have to ask, is that duplex we see out the window across the street finished yet also?

John, your model turned out wonderful! Great work.

Another brief update. In my previous post I had a photo of the cheek blocks on the mainsail boom. The directions suggested a couple of holes could be drilled in them as a simulation. It didn’t look right so I made some proper blocks. I had some Aluminum tubing left over from another model so I glued a bit of Bamboo skewer in the center to allow it to be pinned in place. I used a wee file to make a groove around the outside, cut it in a miter box with a razor saw and pinned it in place. I am much happier with the result!

I use both and now prefer scalpels. I also occasionally use single edge razor blades as they are thinner with a less severe bevel and make square edged cuts easier in some materials.

Warning! Do not use the pictures below as a guide for installing the parts shown at the main boom jaws! I misread the plans and the parts belong on the jaws of the upper boom! I only leave them up as perhaps they will help another builder to check the plans twice and build only once. I have fixed the problem and the bottom photo shows what the main boom jaw area should look like. Time for a long overdue update. With the decent weather I have been trying to catchup with outdoor chores. The weather turned rather too warm and humid for my taste so I did some work on the boom for the mainsail. There is a rather surprising amount of fabrication and installation of parts to be done on what would seem to be a rather simple affair. I won't bore you with details but will post some photos, still a fair amount of touch-up etc. to be done. If you have any questions feel free to post them or contact me.

The other way is to press the home button three times rapidly and the magnifier will come up.

Your model is looking great! When I built my ECB kit I started with the garboard strake on the starboard side but on the port side started the planking above the garboard according to the frame lines and worked my way down to it and found it much easier to shape and fit the garboard then as the upper planks are less complex in terms of twisting etc.. I twisted and shaped the garboard to approximate shape and incrementally trimmed it to a proper fit. Both sides turned out completely to my satisfaction. It was much easier to shape and trim the garboard to fit the existing space. Both sides were done according to plans.

Great job on the windless! I used 5 minute epoxy to attach the whelps, gave me a bit more working time. As far as the handles I made mine based upon a photo of the ECB windless, may not be the original configuration but worked for me. Post #50 and 56. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25110-emma-c-berry-by-turangi-model-shipways-132/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-815288

Bill, I seem to learn more from my mistakes than successes!

Very nice! I'll bet you learned a lot.

I normally seal the wood with a dilute oi based varnish or shellac then sand smooth. It prevents raised grain especially if you are finishing using water based paint or water based clear finish.

Time for a bit of an update. I have been working on the various rigging points, lines etc.. Neither the mast or bowsprit are permanently attached yet but fitted for a trial run. I thought it best to complete as much of the rigging work as possible beforehand as it is easier off boat. I had read of the difficulty of serving the chain going to the bowsprit and use of shrink tubing or other methods so I tried a different approach and applied 5 minute epoxy to the appropriate area of the chain to achieve a smooth surface, let it harden and then served it, worked to my satisfaction. The shrouds were a challenge as they called for serving full length, I gave it a go with little success so decided to just leave them bare which I am sure I will regret. The plans called for some small bullseyes for the bowsprit chain assembly and said to just drill out the center of a deadeye to create a single hole, no go. What I did was carve out the center between the hole with a scalpel to create a divot and then drilled them out, worked a champ. My next step will be to build a stable base for the model and proceed with the permanent rigging A few lousy pictures:

Excellent, looks very nice!

Your model is looking wonderful! Have you considered leaving part of the cabin roof off in order to see the interior details?

As promised my cobbled together apparatus for creating fully served lines called for in the plans. My first lesson is that I need to clean my workspace, ignore the clutter. I first inserted a barbless fly hook in my rotary fly tying vice. I next spliced the line around the hook, much easier if you dip the end in thin CA glue to create a rigid portion to pass through the running line. After creating the splice I thread the serving material on a fine needle and pass it through the splice a couple of times to hold it together. Next I secure the other end to a swivel to allow the line to rotate. The serving thread is in my fly tying bobbin the whole time. I rotate the head of the vice while holding the tag end of the serving thread along the line several turns to lock it tight and then apply a touch of CA to secure it. I then just continue to turn the line with the rotary vice using the bobbin to feed the serving thread. I also apply diluted PVA glue to the served area as I complete several inches and then keep serving. As I approach the required length I leave enough of the line to pass through the fitting on the bowsprit, disconnect the line from the apparatus, pass it through the fitting, make a splice and serve that area and finish with some half-hitches, a touch of CA and the diluted PVA. Rather like tying fishing flies. My directions are probably as clear as mud but feel to post any questions or contact me. No patents pending so free feel to copy my cheapskate serving apparatus 😁

A bit more work, I decided it was time to start rigging the bowsprit. The directions called for sister hooks so after Googling them to see what they were I made up a couple and was fair happy how they turned out. I used a bit of wire and bent it into shape. Not sure they are to scale but will not let anyone near the model with a micrometer. I also served the line full length with a Rube Goldberg contraption I cobbled together and will post photos of that later.