turangi

You might want to try a cabinet scraper on the decks to remove the excess black on the planks. Sanding tends to smear the color but a scraper removes a bit of wood and leaves the simulated caulk.

Sorry the photos didn't post as expected but I purchased the $7.79 one rather than the exact same tool for $47.89.

I recently decided I wanted a digital height gauge for setting frames etc.. I went on Amazon to check prices, I certainly didn’t need a top of the line but something with good reviews and reasonably accurate. I found one I liked and was astounded at the different prices for the exact same tool! If you search for something in Amazon it is worth your while to scroll through the pages to check the prices offer by the various venders! I bought the lowest price one and received it in 5 days with free shipping. I did test the tool against a known accurate scale it it seems very accurate. No battery included, but a minor issue.

I don't own a Veritas spokeshave but have found their miniature block plane one of my favorite tools. I have used it often and to very satisfying results. It fits my hand perfectly and I would not hesitate to recommend it for appropriate miniature model work. The blade was very sharp upon arrival and it is very easy to adjust unlike other hobby planes I have tried. I also have a set of their miniature chisels that I really like for making very precise cuts when needed. I recently used them to clean up a rabbet and they were far superior to a scalpel or a hobby knife with a chisel blade. I am not a tool junky but really do like these tools I mentioned and have found them very useful.

Better late than never I guess, I am working on the Emma C. Berry.

Great idea for your log, I look forward to following it! Probably won't get so heavy you will have to use those jack stands though.😏

I edge glued the planks on my last model and tried to be careful not to use excessive glue. I then used, and highly recommend using a cabinet scraper for the initial removal of excess glue and unevenness in the planking followed by sanding. My caveat is that I painted the hull and did not leave it natural so I have no idea how my efforts would have turned out using stain. Cabinet scrapers are available in many profiles and I have found them an extremely useful tool. Other areas I stain such as decks I always use a pre stain conditioner to even out stain color and use gel stains as they make it very easy to control the color. I have found that using a pre-stain wood conditioner to allow the even penetration of the stain really helps. I also use the Minwax gel stain and it is easy to control the color. I rub it in with like shoe polish with a cloth and it allows me to to make it as light or dark as I desire.

Looking at that rigging kit sure makes my teeth hurt! Excellent job though.

Looking great! The cheek pieces were a challenge but after many looks at the illustrations and much trepidation turned out to my satisfaction.

re: the coal bins, not sure if it an issue you will face but I had to redo mine. I had left a bunker open so as to be able to simulate it as full of coal. I had put some scrap wood in the bottom so as not to have to fill it completely. I made the coal using aquarium filter carbon I had from a long departed aquarium. I mixed it with moderately diluted white glue and put it in. Alas I could see bare wood under the coal so I scooped it all out before it set and after the wood in the bunker dried I painted it black and mixed up more coal and put it in, I am well pleased with the result.

You can barely make out the filler piece you referenced in your post but this is how I shaped mine.

I took a little different approach to broken frames that seemed to work well but you seem to have solved your issues. Posted October 2, 2019 Made a bit more progress. Painted frames prior to installation and installed them in the rear portion of the boat. As mentioned in other logs and also in the kit instructions the center frames are very delicate and I did manage to break a couple. I glued them back together and used a nub from the matrix lightly glued to span the broken area. I applied glue to the char area of the nub and attached them to the char area of the frame. I experimented first and the extra piece will easily pop off once the frames are in place and well supported by the surrounding structure but provide extra strength during assembly. I started finishing decks, seats etc.. For the floor and rear floor I took measurements from the plans and scored the wood to resemble pank seams. I used a sanding sealer to try and keep stain even and less blotchy, I will finish them with a mixture of Testors Dull and Gloss coat for a bit of sheen. I am using Minwax Gel Stain and find it much easier to control than their normal liquid stains. I just rub it in with a cloth until I achieve the desired result. The first couple of parts I finished were not great but I am improving.

Looking good! Seems no good deed goes unpunished re: the modifications you had to make to accommodate the planking. Some of the frames sure are fragile and I repaired a few myself.

John, looks like you enjoy a challenge! I too have copied parts of plans or actual parts. Before doing so I would copy an accurate ruler with the copier and compare the copy to the actual ruler. Luckily my machine copied 100% accurately. There is probably a setting on your machine to adjust the copy size. Good luck!

Looking good! I will eagerly follow your build.

Looking great! Mine is on a bit of a hold now as I have a couple of non-hobby related issues to deal with at present🤥

An another welcome from suburban Chicagoland!

Following your build with interest. Since the Admiral passed away 5 years ago it does get lonely but it is nice to have a hobby room and my dog doesn't seem to mind the dust or mess. Certainly not a substitute for my wife but I try to find a bit of happiness where I can.

Looking very nice! I will be following your progress as I am working on the same model now.

I found that scraping it with a hobby knife or cabinet scraper has worked well for me. If it is a part to be glued after scraping pulling a fine razor saw blade pulled perpendicular to the surface creates fine grooves and seems to promote better adhesion,120 grit sand paper also does a good job I have never encountered any problem with painting as long as most of the char is removed. One thing I have noticed is that the laser cut edge is usually not square and and a bit of scraping or sanding may be needed to correct this. Post #2 in this thread discusses that issue.

Time for an update on my snail's pace progress. I complete installing all the frames up to the point that the keelson attaches going up to the stern and thought it a good time to install the keelson. I checked all the frames prior to installing the keelson and found one seriously out of alignment, it was the one frame I experimented driving a brass pin through the frame and into the keel as I was rather concerned with the tenuous connection between the frame halves and the keel. The pin wandered off path and pulled the frame seriously out of alignment. I managed to remove and reset the frame without serious damage. I still suspect some shimming may be in my future for other areas. I test fitted the keelson and it was like a rocking horse, no doubt to my my improper sanding rather than a design defect. All frames were set to the proper height per the plans but the error was due to my improper finishing of the landing area for the keelson. At that point modifying the landing area on the frames was near impossible so I modified the keelson as seen in the photos by removing material as needed. I established the correct attachment level fore and aft for the the keelson and removed material as needed on the keelson to ensure a tight fit on the frames, seemed to work well. I used one hour setting epoxy to attach the keelson as I had no doubt I could not work fast enough using the 5 minute variety. I applied the adhesive to each frame/keelson juncture and also to the forward end of the keelson and used a brass pin at the aft end to secure it in addition to the epoxy. I used rubber bands in the middle to apply pressure. This was my first time using 1 hour epoxy and I was sure I had mixed it improperly while waiting for it to cure, I put it out in the hot sun and it cured rock hard! I am amazed how it made the structure so much more rigid and stable! A couple of observations: this is my first POF build and I find it a quantum leap more challenging than my 2 previous builds! It teaches the importance of attention to detail! It is completely enjoyable and sure gives me the greatest admiration for the members who scratch build POF models!!!!

Great job, looks wonderful! This was my first build and and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Looking forward to watching your progress!

Thanks John and to all. John we are almost neighbors as I live in Elgin. This was only my second build so I am a novice also, I am sure you will do a fine job!

Interesting second post. I often lightly pull a hobby saw blade across both surfaces before gluing. I have no idea if it creates a stronger bond but probably doesn't hurt?

I seemed to have messed up the previous post, my computer skills are apparently about equal to my modeling skills! The first four frames attach directly to the keel assembly but the next several join in the middle and are glued to the top of the keel. This seemed a very weak area to me so for those that didn't have a laser cut "floor" included I reinforced the joint with strips of wood and added temporary to maintain the width. Hopefully they will not interfere with future bits to be installed, I couldn't see any issues on the plans but time will tell. An interesting issue, the building frame was too tall to support the top of the frames as I approached midship so I added another piece to accommodate the superior tops of the frames. I measured the width of the frames on the plans and made tic marks on the jig and also for the height, work quite well. One hint, the keelson rests upon t he frames above the keel so be sure to level and smooth that area, much easier before the frame installation than after as I learned!