Isaiah

2 hours ago, Pitan said:

That looks like nice progress, Isaiah.
That hull should be nice and straight by now?

The hull had a slight twist along the length. I’ve currently got it under tension while the glue around all the bulkheads dries. Should work.

Log #3: Frame assembly 

 

Here’s where I’m up to since I unboxed it.

 

Having the engraved markings on the bulkheads really helps with pre-bevelling.

 

The Dremel did a great job with this task.

 

 

Everything went together nicely and had a perfect fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Log #2: unboxing and review

 

I’ve just picked up the kit today.

 

I’m amazed at the quality and precision in all the parts and how well everything is packaged and labeled. You literally can’t go wrong, let alone all the extra plans and diagrams.

 

This is a big step up in quality from my Perseverance.

 

 

 

 

Good to know, as long as you’re improving that’s the most important thing.

Good to know, most other kits I’ve seen require keeping the keel straight while planking. Glad I won’t need it then.

I just realised I have to add blocks to the jig to fit in between the bulkheads. Otherwise the bulkheads won’t be able to slot all the way down.

Here’s a couple things I’ve made while waiting for the kit to arrive.

Crosscut jig, pre-bought ones are never as good.

 

And an adjustable jig to hold the false keel and keep it straight. 

Hi Simon, great work so far. I hope you don’t mind me giving a little criticism. 
 

I would personally suggest redoing the ratlines. They are currently not a uniform taper from top to bottom. I know it would be very annoying and a big step back, but it would be very worth it in the end.

 

I hope you don’t take this the wrong way, I just felt I had to tell you this as the rest of your build is really good. It would be a shame for you to build such an amazing model, only to be let down by the ratlines.

 

Kind regards,

 

Isaiah

On 4/27/2024 at 10:46 PM, Pitan said:

The kit supplies flat etched brass belaying pins.  Personally, I'd prefer round pins.

I’ll have to see when I get the kit. If they look too flat even with filing I’ll just buy some.

1 hour ago, Pitan said:

p.s. While you are replacing stuff, have a look at the belaying pins, see what you think.

What would you say’s wrong with the pins? Are they too small?

1 hour ago, Pitan said:

I stand to be corrected, but, I thought Vanguard uses Ropes of Scale?
Though the supplied standing rigging is black in this kit, and you may want brown?

I’m following your build as well.

It’s not Ropes of Scale. I think it might be Amati cord. Ropes of scale rope only comes in 6 metre lengths.

 

Good point about the standing rigging. Coal or black tar came much later so brown or pine tar would be better.

Pretty late here but anytime a blade or mill passes out the back of your wood piece there will almost always be tear out.

 

Using masking tape or duct tape at the end of the cut or really anywhere the surface is exposed to the blade. helps quite a bit. Clamping a sacrificial piece of wood on the end also helps.

And I also bought the fore and aft rigging book by Lennarth Petersson.

Yes I would, even though I want it to be accurate, I’m going to focus more on making a good looking build. I don’t mean compromise accuracy, obviously I’ll try my best to have both worlds.

I like how Thukydides organised his log so I’m copying. You will be able to easily find any part of the build.
 

Table of contents

Pre-building

Log #1: research and preparation

Log #2: Unboxing and review

Log #3: Frame assembly

 

———————————————————

 

Log #1: Research and preparation

 

This is the start of the Sherbourne build log, the kit won’t be arriving for another 2-3 weeks but anything that I should be aware of or extra parts I should get please let me know.

 

I will be replacing all rope with

Ropes of Scale and the kit blocks with Syren blocks. I will also get thimble blocks from Syren for the backstays.

 

I don’t have an airbrush and I don’t like the idea of using spray paint for the hull.

I just bought white acrylic paint so what I might do is only use spray paint as a base coat, then apply a thinned down white acrylic.

 

I’m already thinking about gun tackles and I know I’ll need at least 2mm blocks.

I don’t think there’s really any available though. Only Vanguards blocks but they’ll be different to Syren blocks. Will I just have to make them? 

4 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

The plan shown was not my own. It was a representation of what I wanted my bow to look like. I redesigned my own bow to reflect the online image. That picture is likely a photocopy, my designs are all drawn on paper with pencil. Go back and look at the original side profile of the boat. I hope that answers your question. 

Ok gotcha.

I’m just confused because the plan before your drawing has a straight bow, but then you said you’re redesigning to make a straight bow?

I thought the first drawing already has a straight bow? Me the beginner is confused.

Thank you all for the compliments, I’ve just ordered the Sherbourne so I’ll be starting that as soon as it arrives!

Glad it’s useful for others as well. Once I made this jig I made about 40 of them in just a few hours.

1 hour ago, Knocklouder said:

Wow, very impressive.  I am going to start making rope coils like yours very nice.

 Congratulations on some very nice work. 

   Bob M.        

Thanks Bob, I got the idea from this video Here.

 

14 minutes ago, Thukydides said:

Great job. You should be proud of her.

 

Do you have plans for what you want to do next?

Most likely the Sherbourne from Vanguard, I’ll be purchasing it shortly if no other ideas arise.

Here’s the Perseverance, my first model ship, fully complete after 15 months. 
 

I’ve learnt a lot over the course of building this kit, real life and model building. Even though there’s many flaws and inaccuracies, I’m still quite proud of this accomplishment. My main goal was to resemble something that looked like a wooden ship and I’m pretty sure I achieved that!

 

Thanks to all who followed along

and a big thanks goes to Michael and Steven, you’ve been a big help.

@Ferrus Manus

 @Louie da fly

 

Until next time,

 

Isaiah

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10 hours ago, Coyote_6 said:

The save by painting over looks great - much less a flag printed on a 20-21st century printer and more an authentic look with some real depth of color.  Awesome!  Looks great in the photo!!

The flag looks best at that distance, no need to look closer!